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Old 12-09-2010, 10:25 PM   #145
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pimp my yaris View Post
With tuning from the AEM you should be good up to about 6 psi with the stock injectors. Are U using a oil restrictor on the feed line? There should be a 1.5mm restrictor on the banjo bolt for the oil feed line into the turbo. This keeps oil pressure normal in your engine by not allowing all the prssure to bleed through your turbo housing. Also would you mind posting a picture of your downpipe. We are using the same turbo and I'm just curious how yours looks.
Nope not using a restrictor. Here are the pics of the downpipe from above.
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Old 12-10-2010, 09:50 AM   #146
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You need to add an oil inlet restrictor, your turbo will start to smoke if its not already...
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Old 12-10-2010, 09:56 AM   #147
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Just one question, is it the wideband O2 we see on your downpipe?
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Old 12-10-2010, 01:42 PM   #148
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cdydjded View Post
You need to add an oil inlet restrictor, your turbo will start to smoke if its not already...
I would but it already has a internal one. If it ever does start to smoke then I will.

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Just one question, is it the wideband O2 we see on your downpipe?
Yea it is.
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Old 12-10-2010, 04:05 PM   #149
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I would but it already has a internal one. If it ever does start to smoke then I will.
Never seen a turbo with an internal oil feed restrictor, but if you say it has one then you should be OK......
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Old 12-10-2010, 04:09 PM   #150
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Last week, I was reading the installation instruction for my wideband and I saw that on page 3:

Sensor Mounting
A weld-in M18 X 1.5 boss is supplied for sensor installation. Mount the O2 sensor in the
exhaust system at least 18 inches downstream from the exhaust port. If you anticipate
high EGT's (over 800C), run a turbocharger, run at high RPM for extended periods of
time or plan on running leaded race fuel then you must mount the sensor at least 36
inches or more downstream of the exhaust port as all of these can cause the sensor to
overheat.


http://www.aemelectronics.com/Images...%2030-5130.pdf

I hope your sensor will last at this emplacement.
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Old 12-10-2010, 05:41 PM   #151
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Nice downpipe. Is that 2.5"? Where is your factory O2sensor? I also bought some heat wrap for my turbo and downpipe because the under hood temps get crazy hot without it. Over time plastic gets very brittle and breaks easily if is gots so hot all the time. Things like wire connectors will break very easily if it is always so hot under the hood. Very common with mitsubishi's and V dub's. Just a sugestion.
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Old 12-10-2010, 09:37 PM   #152
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Yea I just now remembered about that 18" thing might have to switch it with the o2 on the other side. As for the heat I dont have that problem with heat yet cause I hardly even hit 5psi but I will get wrapping for it next week when I get paided and also try to see if I can relocate the O2. O and it's 2.5 good guess
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Old 12-11-2010, 06:12 PM   #153
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Has any1 experience there boost gauge needle being shaky/jerky at times? I have no leak and it's not pinched. I also hear the turbo boosting at partial throttle and there is a slow responds from the gauge. Gonna get rid of that plastic hose and run a rubber one. Make me wonder if I have a boost leak somewhere.
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Old 12-11-2010, 06:36 PM   #154
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I can hear mine start spooling at zero psi and higher even under light accel. It has very little lag.
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Old 12-11-2010, 08:16 PM   #155
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Lol I think you missed my question. How's your boost gauge? Lol. If this next thing doesn't work then I might try tapping into the wastegate. Might not be as accurate cause it will show higher psi but there should be less lag
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Old 12-11-2010, 08:39 PM   #156
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I've noticed both of those things happening as well. Not sure about the jerky needle, but if you reach a certain throttle position and hold it, it's definitely possible for exhaust pressure to build enough to begin spooling slightly.
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Old 12-12-2010, 01:53 AM   #157
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What do you think about tapping the wg for the boost gauge?
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Old 12-12-2010, 07:51 PM   #158
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Got my first CEL... Fuel system too lean lol. Can't wait for those injectors. I will order my FIC Thursday for now I am staying out of boost. My idle afr sometimes even dips to the 16s :(

Last edited by Yoda; 12-12-2010 at 08:04 PM.
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Old 12-12-2010, 08:04 PM   #159
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yoda View Post
Lol I think you missed my question. How's your boost gauge? Lol. If this next thing doesn't work then I might try tapping into the wastegate. Might not be as accurate cause it will show higher psi but there should be less lag
what kind of boost gauge is it? some come with a vac-T with a built in restrictor so the vac signal is dampened. Also when tapping off the evap noid line, the boost gauge needle may shake at idle when that evap noid pulsates / turns on. Nothing really is wrong.
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Old 12-12-2010, 10:17 PM   #160
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Mine is teed at the evap. line coming of the intake using the plastic tubing. I am using a autometer phantom mechanical guage. No problem with shaking needle.
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Old 12-12-2010, 10:53 PM   #161
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Mine is teed at the evap. line coming of the intake using the plastic tubing. I am using a autometer phantom mechanical guage. No problem with shaking needle.
yea ive not had a problem with mine either, I would say ive seen it (shaking needle) more with prosport gauges.
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Old 12-13-2010, 11:25 AM   #162
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mine looks like this.... I got it a pepboys Think i gonna upgrade it later to one that also has vac. Pimp can you post a pic of where that evap line is
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