Drive belt replacement?

[junorico24]

How much do they charge at the dealers? Anyone do it DIY style?.. My Yari has done nearly 100 k on the clock so far so good. 5 years of ownership the belt looks caramelized. Also she's losing a bit of zip around town.This car was so much fun brand new. She's starting to show her age a bit. Anyone know how to turn back time and get that mojo back? lol

When I press the clutch pedal, I hear a squeeking sound and it's a bit sluggish off the mark now too.

[CTScott]

I am not sure what the dealer would charge, but replacing the belt is actually a very easy DIY. You loosen the upper and lower alternator bolts, move the alternator towards the engine block to remove it, slip the new one on in its place, hold tension on the alternator, and tighten the alternator bolts.

The one thing you have to be careful of is not breaking the OCV (the small cylindrical device on the left side of the engine) when holding tension on the alternator.

[junorico24]

Originally Posted by CTScott

I am not sure what the dealer would charge, but replacing the belt is actually a very easy DIY. You loosen the upper and lower alternator bolts, move the alternator towards the engine block to remove it, slip the new one on in its place, hold tension on the alternator, and tighten the alternator bolts.

The one thing you have to be careful of is not breaking the OCV (the small cylindrical device on the left side of the engine) when holding tension on the alternator.

Thanks so much.

What could that squeaking sound be when I press the clutch pedal?

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by junorico24

Thanks so much.

What could that squeaking sound be when I press the clutch pedal?

Depending on where the squeak is coming from, it can be as easy as applying a little lithium grease to the pivot point of the pedal (if it is coming from inside the car) or to the linkage for the clutch master or slave cylinder (if it is coming from under the hood).

[walt101786]

from my area....the dealer want to charge me $192ish....which absurdly expensive...i also drop by to their parts department to get a quote on the belt on my 07 HB...its like around $50ish...and i search around....most local auto parts sells it for $12.99 and from what i hear its pretty darn good....i would go with DIY and just buy the $12.99 and DIY at home...there u save urself almost $200 and at least sometime urself...hope this helps

[alanwagen]

Originally Posted by CTScott

I am not sure what the dealer would charge, but replacing the belt is actually a very easy DIY. You loosen the upper and lower alternator bolts, move the alternator towards the engine block to remove it, slip the new one on in its place, hold tension on the alternator, and tighten the alternator bolts.

The one thing you have to be careful of is not breaking the OCV (the small cylindrical device on the left side of the engine) when holding tension on the alternator.

I just did my son's Yaris this weekend. I got a Gates belt, which I like.
I thought I got it tight but the next day it started to squeal. I should of run it for 10 minutes and then gone back to re-tension the belt. As you said before, avoid the OCV. I went to the left of it, almost sort of sideways to apply tension.

[nookandcrannycar]

Originally Posted by walt101786

from my area....the dealer want to charge me $192ish....which absurdly expensive...i also drop by to their parts department to get a quote on the belt on my 07 HB...its like around $50ish...and i search around....most local auto parts sells it for $12.99 and from what i hear its pretty darn good....i would go with DIY and just buy the $12.99 and DIY at home...there u save urself almost $200 and at least sometime urself...hope this helps

OMG, what a rip off ($192). I had mine done at a local independent shop that has been in business since 1973. I think it was thirty something bucks including the belt. The dealership is close by, so they drove there and got the belt at their price. Around the same time, I also had the rear brakes looked at (cleaned) and the parking brake cable adjusted.

[junorico24]

Originally Posted by nookandcrannycar

OMG, what a rip off ($192). I had mine done at a local independent shop that has been in business since 1973. I think it was thirty something bucks including the belt. The dealership is close by, so they drove there and got the belt at their price. Around the same time, I also had the rear brakes looked at (cleaned) and the parking brake cable adjusted.

Yeah.

It's a bit much.Going to be busy this weekend. I am changing the alternator on my 1993 Daihatsu Charade g 200 rs. Plus i am changing the rear drum brakes on my Daihatsu to disc brakes. http://daiforum.net/viewtopic.php?f=29&t=70 Plus of course last but not least. Changing my Yaris drive belt.I'm still searching for a 1.6 Daihatsu applause block, then mate it with a 1.3 charade head and pistons.It's got high compression! these things believe it or not go like pocket rockets.


Even the 3 cylinder Daihatsu got torque, so much fun to drive.it's surge is awesome. It's a unique engine got grunt for small cars.

[walt101786]

yea i know its pretty expensive lol...hell if i dont wanna go through that trouble of doing it myself i wouldve take it to a local shop and pay for whatever the cheaper price..lol and by the way...i dont mind myself to charge anyone at least 50ish or OBO to help others to change there's but i would never charge that much...and i know some of u guys might ask what i do for living...im an auto tech myself and to charge someone that much is too much....unless i work for the dealership then that's a different situation....

[junorico24]

I managed to stop coolant leak, did the rear drum brakes to disc brakes conversion on my Daihatsu Charade.Changed the alternator on it as well. But when I tried to change my Yaris drive belt, the lower pivot bolt was damn near impossible to loosen. Decided I am not gonna break something in the process of loosening it.Is it 14 mm? It's torqued real tight.The upper adjuster bolt was easy as.But the lower pivot bolt was well stubborn.The car Is my bread and butter. I meanmy daily driver to get to and fro work.

LOL

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by junorico24

I managed to stop coolant leak, did the rear drum brakes to disc brakes conversion on my Daihatsu Charade.Changed the alternator on it as well. But when I tried to change my Yaris drive belt, the lower pivot bolt was damn near impossible to loosen. Decided I am not gonna break something in the process of loosening it.Is it 14 mm? It's torqued real tight.The upper adjuster bolt was easy as.But the lower pivot bolt was well stubborn.The car Is my bread and butter. I meanmy daily driver to get to and fro work.

LOL

The bottom one is 14mm, and if it hasn't been touched in a while it can be mighty snug, I snapped one, but fortunately the way it broke the alternator came off easily and I replaced the bolt with a Grade 8 one.

[walt101786]

man looks like im gonna have some trouble myself for replacing my belt lol...will be my first time changing my belt...got my belt for $14ish and gonna avoid the dealer price of services lol which i had save myself like 180ish lol

[Yarflana]

You should make sure when you are trying to loosen really tight bolts, you prep it with some liquid wrench/WD 40 and use 6 point sockets/box wrenches. When you put it all back, ensure you use a torque wrench to the correct specs using the bulletins from Garms Micro Image forum website.

[junorico24]

Done,

I also changed my manual transmission fluid which was easier than changing the belt. What i did was put an extension on my wrench to get extra leverage to loosen the bolt.

Ok, i ran into a snag.When you tighten your belt make sure it's really tight or else it will squel like crazy.It's just my 20 cent of advice. Really tighten it hard fellas and ladies.Personally this job is simple but if you haven't done it like me, it's a bit like trail an error.

The manual transmission fill cap and drain bolt came lose without a fuss and was a pleasure to service.

[Yarflana]

I have never changed the belt either, but I would imagine there are some places where you can use some lipstick or white out or whatever to mark where the alternator was before you loosened it to see where to move it back to to tighten. It would make perfect sense to me that after marking and changing that you should not have to move the alternator adjustment back as far as with the old belt because of natural stretch.

When I replace my pulley with an MI, I am going to do the belt as well....might as well right?

[jambo101]

Drive belt cost.
http://www.summitracing.com/search/p...mp-without-a-c

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by Yarflana

I have never changed the belt either, but I would imagine there are some places where you can use some lipstick or white out or whatever to mark where the alternator was before you loosened it to see where to move it back to to tighten. It would make perfect sense to me that after marking and changing that you should not have to move the alternator adjustment back as far as with the old belt because of natural stretch.

When I replace my pulley with an MI, I am going to do the belt as well....might as well right?

No - Just the material tolerances in the belt would make it unlikely to fall in the same position. Checking the deflection is the correct way. There are actually devices that you can by to do so, if you are not used to assessing the tension by pressing on the middle of the belt with your finger tip.

[walt101786]

just replaced my belt and rides like new now...