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Old 02-24-2017, 06:48 PM   #37
tmontague
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Just finished installing the oil temp sensor. You can see in the image the original adapter I used and the oil pressure sender on top of it as well as the oem oil switch installed in the back of it.

I then installed the 45 degree fitting with the extender and then screwed the oil temp sensor into that

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Old 02-24-2017, 11:18 PM   #38
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Congrats man and great work!!
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Old 03-03-2017, 12:27 PM   #39
tmontague
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Short update:

The ECU has went through it's full check and all of the readiness monitors are "ok" so it's safe to say there are no CEL's from the swap. I've driven around 700km on it and have been pushing it a little harder. It's been a ton of fun and even when only taking it to 3k rpm it wants to get up to speed quick.

It it a bit harder on mileage as expected. So far on winter gas and my first tank I'd say about 5-10% worse. That said, I've been driving harder and that tank had a lot of idling on it due to various things I was monitoring on the car.

I installed a Viofo A119 dashcam hardwired to my ignition and so far have been really impressed.

I'll be doing a dyno pull early this spring once my winters come off the car. The plan is to get some 2zr baseline numbers before I add a long tube header or anything else. The numbers will be higher than a complete stock swap as I have a 2.25" header back custom exhaust with one cat delete, as well as a cut out air box with no charcoal filter and ducting feeding to it. The intake won't do much to change numbers, but the exhaust definitely will have an effect.

At least it will give people some more info in regards to what numbers they can expect.

I'll be updating the first page on this thread with exact parts I needed for the swap and any tips or tricks that helped me.
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Old 03-04-2017, 02:43 PM   #40
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Old 04-03-2017, 04:19 PM   #41
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Alright, short update on the 2zr now that the placebo effect is gone. How do I know the placebo effect is gone? Simple, the car feels slower then it did right when I did the swap.

The 2zr is a bit harder on gas then the 1nz (obviously). I probably get about 80 or so less km per tank. Seems to use about 0.5-0.8 L/100km more than the 1nz. I can't give exact numbers since we still have winter gas up here and the average numbers I have in my head are from my 1nz on summer gas.

The 2zr is smooth, right up to red line and it pulls hard all the way. I definitely need an LSD as WOT in first gear is almost impossible to do unless the road are dry, my tires (crappy 800 wear) are warm and I'm going straight. I also need better tires, which is something I'll be doing next summer as mine are getting worn and can't handle any rain.

I've had no issues still with any CEL's or anything else engine related. My dual oil catch cans pick up way more oil then I thought they would. They are inline so obviously the first one fills up quicker but it seems I'm catching about 2-3 ounces every 2k km or so.

I'll be installing some aftermarket stuff next week so I'll post the updates here when I'm done
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Old 04-03-2017, 06:22 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tmontague View Post
...The 2zr is smooth, right up to red line and it pulls hard all the way. I definitely need an LSD as WOT in first gear is almost impossible to do unless the road are dry, my tires (crappy 800 wear) are warm and I'm going straight...
It breaks that easily, eh?
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Old 04-03-2017, 06:41 PM   #43
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it does on my crappy 800 treadwear all seasons. The tread last forever but on anything wet or when they aren't warmed up the right tire will slip.

I can still do a 0-60 under WOT without any right tire slip, but on bumpy Hamilton roads under a slight turn when leaving a parking lot, no chance.

With better tires it should mostly go away, and of course an LSD would make a huge difference
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Old 04-03-2017, 06:47 PM   #44
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Right, makes sense.
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Old 04-04-2017, 11:42 AM   #45
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needs moar tire
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Old 04-06-2017, 11:48 PM   #46
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I was spinning 225/45ZR15 Hankook RS3's with the open diff....the 2zr is a tire killer. Now that I have an LSD, Ive been running 205/50ZR15 Hankook Rcomps....and I still spin like crazy at the start line.
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Old 04-19-2017, 11:24 PM   #47
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Another update, finally installed my NST crank pulley. The revs seems to drop a bit quicker and the car seems slightly peppier but tbh it is not a mod I would be spending money on right away, better spent on other mods first.

The pulley is labeled for the Corolla S which uses the 2zr fae motor, but it will fit the 2zr fe no problem. However, it was labeled a normal size pulley and it is slightly undersized. not a big deal and I have no idea if the 2zr fae oem pulley is smaller than the 2zr fe but I think that is very unlikely and NST just CNC'd the wrong pulley for me. It's minimally smaller so I'm not concerned.

Now that summer gas is here my mileage is now about 6.5-6.9l/100km as opposed to 5.8-6.2L/100km. A little less miles per gallon but many more smiles per gallon

I had a brief issue driving in salty slush in a spring storm that Niagara Falls NY had when I was travelling to the border for some car parts. I got 2 engine codes, one for my secondary O2 sensor and another for a faulty ECU. The O2 sensor was stuck at 1.275 volts but otherwise ran fine. It was due to me not using rubber plugs to fill the 3 holes from the immo wires I removed when i did the install to by pass my immo.

I pulled 3 rubber grommets from my 1nz harness and plugged the holes, luckily my ECU dried out and haven't had the issue since. Thanks Cranky for the heads up on the ECU hole issue

I've recently ordered a MonkeyWrench Racing steel lightweight flywheel (8.8lbs) and will be installing that in a couple weeks as well as my poly filled engine mounts. This should make 1st through 3rd gear really snappy and take out some of the lag/slop in a stock engine.

I also ordered an RPM long tube header and will be having a new mid pipe made with my current resonator, single cat and aftermarket muffler because I love how ,my car sounds and don't want to part with that. The current midpipe hits my axle and rear right shock and has a slight rattle to it when the rpm's come down so I figured I'd get the shop to bend me some new pipe and fix that issue. I'll be splicing in some extra wire to extend the secondary O2 sensor to fit where the cat will now be placed. I won't have the header for a few weeks as they still have to make one up.

If you are doing the swap and plan on keeping your Yaris a/c lines, that is fine but take note that you will have to bend them slightly for them to clear any rubbing and to have the compressor side fitting on the low pressure hose fit better. I didn't bend mine and my hose was rubbing on the compressor. The other issue I had was that the bolt that came with my reman'd compressor is too short and only ends up grabbing a few threads onto the compressor. I didn't bend my yaris lines so there is a lot of torque on the fitting that goes into the compressor. This over time caused the bolts to ruin a few threads on the bolt and pop off.

When I was doing work today I lightly moved the line and it burst off sending UV dye and r134a all over my engine bay and just missed my eyes. This stuff is ridiculously cold so learn from my mistakes before you go blind.

I rebent the line in my bench vice (takes a lot of force to do) I made sure not to pinch any of the steel lines, so only bend as much as you need to. I then found a longer bolt in my parts bin and secure the compressor side of the fitting first, then the top side. I pulled a vacuum on the system and it held for 20 mins so i then ran my vacuum pump on it for 90 mins. I then sealed it all up.

I'm unfortunately out of my r134a so I'll have to wait until next week when i can go to the border and pick up some more. I'll be adding some UV dye as well since all the stuff I added before blew out.

We cannot get r134a here in Canada without a license and the r22 stuff they sell at CT for way too much money is flammable and not oem so I'd rather do it right and have it cost me less money. Hence why I'm buying some r134a from across the pond.

So far I've had no oil loss in 6k km except for the amount my oil catch cans are collecting which is more than I thought.

Another thing to keep in mind for those doing the swap in the future. I'd recommend sourcing all XD mounts and brackets if you plan on running the long tube header.

It is true that with the sedan swap you can use the yaris dogbone (torque mount) mount and bracket and it will be fine. Armstrong's mount sits perfectly straight and mine is slightly crooked but nothing to worry about or cause excess wear.

However, the xd mount pushed the engine forward an inch or so and gives extra clearance for the longtube header to fit. Armstrong has his header hit his firewall every so often under very hard shifting at high rpm's - and that was with a solid poly torque mount. Not a huge issue but another member with a hatch who ran all xd mounts and a long tube header never had any issue with the header hitting the fire wall. So for a DD if you don't want to experience the header hitting the firewall I'd recommend running all xd mounts and brackets and filling your torque mount with poly to make it a solid mount which limits how much the engine twists under heavy load.

Keep in mind with the xd torque mount you'll have to run xd shift cables and the 1-2 extra inches that the engine moves forward will be too far for your yaris cables to fit. The cables are stupid expensive and can't be found online so this becomes a pricier option then you'd expect.

That's about it for updates, I'll post back once I have my flywheels installed
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2zr swapped Vios, oil catch can, TRD rear sway bar, MI lowering springs, In cabin+under hood SSK, TRD shift knob, HID projector/Halo lights, 10mm rear axle spacers, custom header back exhaust, Front splitter, Sickspeed dual horns, Tokiko Blue's in rear, triple gauges, Whiteline bushings, Sparco pedal covers, Viper Keyless entry, DC Sports CAI, NST u/d crank pulley, solid poly engine mounts
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Old 04-20-2017, 05:47 AM   #48
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0.5-1.0L/100km is worth 30% more power while still using 87 octane
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Old 04-21-2017, 11:39 AM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ArmstrongRacing View Post
I was spinning 225/45ZR15 Hankook RS3's with the open diff....the 2zr is a tire killer. Now that I have an LSD, Ive been running 205/50ZR15 Hankook Rcomps....and I still spin like crazy at the start line.
Your in Prepared class now.. just get some 15x9" wheels and slap some 255 Rcomps on now..
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