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Old 02-24-2017, 06:48 PM   #37
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Just finished installing the oil temp sensor. You can see in the image the original adapter I used and the oil pressure sender on top of it as well as the oem oil switch installed in the back of it.

I then installed the 45 degree fitting with the extender and then screwed the oil temp sensor into that

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Old 02-24-2017, 11:18 PM   #38
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Congrats man and great work!!
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Old 03-03-2017, 12:27 PM   #39
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Short update:

The ECU has went through it's full check and all of the readiness monitors are "ok" so it's safe to say there are no CEL's from the swap. I've driven around 700km on it and have been pushing it a little harder. It's been a ton of fun and even when only taking it to 3k rpm it wants to get up to speed quick.

It it a bit harder on mileage as expected. So far on winter gas and my first tank I'd say about 5-10% worse. That said, I've been driving harder and that tank had a lot of idling on it due to various things I was monitoring on the car.

I installed a Viofo A119 dashcam hardwired to my ignition and so far have been really impressed.

I'll be doing a dyno pull early this spring once my winters come off the car. The plan is to get some 2zr baseline numbers before I add a long tube header or anything else. The numbers will be higher than a complete stock swap as I have a 2.25" header back custom exhaust with one cat delete, as well as a cut out air box with no charcoal filter and ducting feeding to it. The intake won't do much to change numbers, but the exhaust definitely will have an effect.

At least it will give people some more info in regards to what numbers they can expect.

I'll be updating the first page on this thread with exact parts I needed for the swap and any tips or tricks that helped me.
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Old 03-04-2017, 02:43 PM   #40
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Old 04-03-2017, 04:19 PM   #41
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Alright, short update on the 2zr now that the placebo effect is gone. How do I know the placebo effect is gone? Simple, the car feels slower then it did right when I did the swap.

The 2zr is a bit harder on gas then the 1nz (obviously). I probably get about 80 or so less km per tank. Seems to use about 0.5-0.8 L/100km more than the 1nz. I can't give exact numbers since we still have winter gas up here and the average numbers I have in my head are from my 1nz on summer gas.

The 2zr is smooth, right up to red line and it pulls hard all the way. I definitely need an LSD as WOT in first gear is almost impossible to do unless the road are dry, my tires (crappy 800 wear) are warm and I'm going straight. I also need better tires, which is something I'll be doing next summer as mine are getting worn and can't handle any rain.

I've had no issues still with any CEL's or anything else engine related. My dual oil catch cans pick up way more oil then I thought they would. They are inline so obviously the first one fills up quicker but it seems I'm catching about 2-3 ounces every 2k km or so.

I'll be installing some aftermarket stuff next week so I'll post the updates here when I'm done
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Old 04-03-2017, 06:22 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tmontague View Post
...The 2zr is smooth, right up to red line and it pulls hard all the way. I definitely need an LSD as WOT in first gear is almost impossible to do unless the road are dry, my tires (crappy 800 wear) are warm and I'm going straight...
It breaks that easily, eh?
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Old 04-03-2017, 06:41 PM   #43
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it does on my crappy 800 treadwear all seasons. The tread last forever but on anything wet or when they aren't warmed up the right tire will slip.

I can still do a 0-60 under WOT without any right tire slip, but on bumpy Hamilton roads under a slight turn when leaving a parking lot, no chance.

With better tires it should mostly go away, and of course an LSD would make a huge difference
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Old 04-03-2017, 06:47 PM   #44
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Right, makes sense.
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Old 04-04-2017, 11:42 AM   #45
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needs moar tire
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Old 04-06-2017, 11:48 PM   #46
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I was spinning 225/45ZR15 Hankook RS3's with the open diff....the 2zr is a tire killer. Now that I have an LSD, Ive been running 205/50ZR15 Hankook Rcomps....and I still spin like crazy at the start line.
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Old 04-19-2017, 11:24 PM   #47
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Another update, finally installed my NST crank pulley. The revs seems to drop a bit quicker and the car seems slightly peppier but tbh it is not a mod I would be spending money on right away, better spent on other mods first.

The pulley is labeled for the Corolla S which uses the 2zr fae motor, but it will fit the 2zr fe no problem. However, it was labeled a normal size pulley and it is slightly undersized. not a big deal and I have no idea if the 2zr fae oem pulley is smaller than the 2zr fe but I think that is very unlikely and NST just CNC'd the wrong pulley for me. It's minimally smaller so I'm not concerned.

Now that summer gas is here my mileage is now about 6.5-6.9l/100km as opposed to 5.8-6.2L/100km. A little less miles per gallon but many more smiles per gallon

I had a brief issue driving in salty slush in a spring storm that Niagara Falls NY had when I was travelling to the border for some car parts. I got 2 engine codes, one for my secondary O2 sensor and another for a faulty ECU. The O2 sensor was stuck at 1.275 volts but otherwise ran fine. It was due to me not using rubber plugs to fill the 3 holes from the immo wires I removed when i did the install to by pass my immo.

I pulled 3 rubber grommets from my 1nz harness and plugged the holes, luckily my ECU dried out and haven't had the issue since. Thanks Cranky for the heads up on the ECU hole issue

I've recently ordered a MonkeyWrench Racing steel lightweight flywheel (8.8lbs) and will be installing that in a couple weeks as well as my poly filled engine mounts. This should make 1st through 3rd gear really snappy and take out some of the lag/slop in a stock engine.

I also ordered an RPM long tube header and will be having a new mid pipe made with my current resonator, single cat and aftermarket muffler because I love how ,my car sounds and don't want to part with that. The current midpipe hits my axle and rear right shock and has a slight rattle to it when the rpm's come down so I figured I'd get the shop to bend me some new pipe and fix that issue. I'll be splicing in some extra wire to extend the secondary O2 sensor to fit where the cat will now be placed. I won't have the header for a few weeks as they still have to make one up.

If you are doing the swap and plan on keeping your Yaris a/c lines, that is fine but take note that you will have to bend them slightly for them to clear any rubbing and to have the compressor side fitting on the low pressure hose fit better. I didn't bend mine and my hose was rubbing on the compressor. The other issue I had was that the bolt that came with my reman'd compressor is too short and only ends up grabbing a few threads onto the compressor. I didn't bend my yaris lines so there is a lot of torque on the fitting that goes into the compressor. This over time caused the bolts to ruin a few threads on the bolt and pop off.

When I was doing work today I lightly moved the line and it burst off sending UV dye and r134a all over my engine bay and just missed my eyes. This stuff is ridiculously cold so learn from my mistakes before you go blind.

I rebent the line in my bench vice (takes a lot of force to do) I made sure not to pinch any of the steel lines, so only bend as much as you need to. I then found a longer bolt in my parts bin and secure the compressor side of the fitting first, then the top side. I pulled a vacuum on the system and it held for 20 mins so i then ran my vacuum pump on it for 90 mins. I then sealed it all up.

I'm unfortunately out of my r134a so I'll have to wait until next week when i can go to the border and pick up some more. I'll be adding some UV dye as well since all the stuff I added before blew out.

We cannot get r134a here in Canada without a license and the r22 stuff they sell at CT for way too much money is flammable and not oem so I'd rather do it right and have it cost me less money. Hence why I'm buying some r134a from across the pond.

So far I've had no oil loss in 6k km except for the amount my oil catch cans are collecting which is more than I thought.

Another thing to keep in mind for those doing the swap in the future. I'd recommend sourcing all XD mounts and brackets if you plan on running the long tube header.

It is true that with the sedan swap you can use the yaris dogbone (torque mount) mount and bracket and it will be fine. Armstrong's mount sits perfectly straight and mine is slightly crooked but nothing to worry about or cause excess wear.

However, the xd mount pushed the engine forward an inch or so and gives extra clearance for the longtube header to fit. Armstrong has his header hit his firewall every so often under very hard shifting at high rpm's - and that was with a solid poly torque mount. Not a huge issue but another member with a hatch who ran all xd mounts and a long tube header never had any issue with the header hitting the fire wall. So for a DD if you don't want to experience the header hitting the firewall I'd recommend running all xd mounts and brackets and filling your torque mount with poly to make it a solid mount which limits how much the engine twists under heavy load.

Keep in mind with the xd torque mount you'll have to run xd shift cables and the 1-2 extra inches that the engine moves forward will be too far for your yaris cables to fit. The cables are stupid expensive and can't be found online so this becomes a pricier option then you'd expect.

That's about it for updates, I'll post back once I have my flywheels installed
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Old 04-20-2017, 05:47 AM   #48
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0.5-1.0L/100km is worth 30% more power while still using 87 octane
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Old 04-21-2017, 11:39 AM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ArmstrongRacing View Post
I was spinning 225/45ZR15 Hankook RS3's with the open diff....the 2zr is a tire killer. Now that I have an LSD, Ive been running 205/50ZR15 Hankook Rcomps....and I still spin like crazy at the start line.
Your in Prepared class now.. just get some 15x9" wheels and slap some 255 Rcomps on now..
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Old 05-04-2017, 10:29 PM   #50
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Engine Mount Updates and Compatibility for the Sedan

Short version:
2zr swap in a sedan needs the following mounts/brackets:

with long tube header:
- xd passenger side engine mount and bracket
-XD dogbone mount, Yaris dogbone bracket
- yaris trans mount and bracket
-XD shift cables (because of the xd dogbone mount which is longer than the yaris')

with stock header:
- xd passenger side engine mount and bracket
- Yaris dogbone mount and bracket
-Yaris trans mount and bracket

Here is a little update regarding the engine mounts and the sedan swap as I've had a slight issue this past week which I learned some more info from. To make this post easier to follow here is a break down of the mount situation. There are 3 engine mounts in total, these are the parts that contain the rubber dampener. There is the fluid filled engine mount (passenger side), dogbone mounts (aka torque mount) and the trans mount (drivers side). Each mount has a bracket which is the metal part that the mount affixes to.

Also to make this post make more sense it should be known that the 2zr is a wider engine (and slightly taller) so it takes up more space towards to the drivers side (left) crash bar. Or in other words, it causes the transmission to move closer to the left side

I initially did the swap with all of the XD mounts except for the dogbone and bracket as these were still the oem Yaris ones. This allowed me to use my Yaris shift cables (XD's are longer). The engine swap went fin and there were no issues what so ever.

Yaris dogbone and Yaris bracket


Now the Yaris dogbone is shorter by about 1-1.5" so the engine sits closer to the firewall. Because I recently ordered the RPM long tube header, I needed more clearance behind the engine to install it and to avoid any contact of the header on the firewall under hard downshifts. To get that extra space behind the engine, I installed the xd dogbone mount. This pushed the engine forward but the dogbone ended up being on an angle. This is not a serious issue but over time it could cause the mount to wear quicker and since I drive hard, I'd rather it be lined up straight.

To fix that issue I installed the xd dogbone mount and bracket, the xd dogbone bracket shifts the mount attachment point over a half inch so that the dogbone mount is straight. I installed the bracket, the mount was now straight. The next day I started noticing a vibration at the wheel under hard right turns. i thought it was from the rear wheels and thought it was the wheel bearings. But new bearings didn't fix the issue, and it turns out it was a vibration from the left (drivers side) cv axle and the trans.

Because the dogbone mount was straight the engine was now sitting more to the left (drivers side) where it normally settles. With the dogbone bent, it was sort of holding the engine/trans more to the right. The engine being more to the left ended up causing the left CV axle to now be fully compressed. The inner joint allows for in and out (length) movement which is needed due to suspension travel as well as making the axle easier to remove and re install. The outter joint does not have any in or out. This meant that the axle was at it maximal compression so when the left axle was rotated it would push the trans/engine over a quarter inch back and fourth.

This could be seen when the car was raised and no weight was on the suspension as the trans/engine would wiggle when you manually spun the left wheel. If the car was put in gear while raised the engine/trans would bang and vibrate. When driving and the suspension compressed there would be no issues. But under hard right cornering, the left wheel would be forced in due to driving forces and this would compress the axle more, leading to my vibration issue.

Putting the Yaris dogbone bracket back in solved the vibration issue, but the engine/trans still rocked slightly when the left axle spun and the suspension was unweighted. Also the dogbone mount was still on a sharp angle.

Xd dogbone mount and Yaris dogbone bracket with xd trans mount and bracket:


I decided to reinstall my Yaris trans mount back into the car to force the engine more to the right. I kept the xd trans bracket installed as it lets the trans sit lower in the engine bay to help keep the center of gravity down. Installing the Yaris trans mount is tough and requires a lot of muscle and a BF pry bar that you leverage against the crash bar and the outter trans case. This is so the engine/trans move enough to the right that you can get the bolt to line up through the dampener. After fighting it for 20 mins I finally got it installed.

Yaris trans mount, XD trans bracket, Yaris dogbone bracket, XD dogbone mount: You can see that the xd dogbone mount is almost straight now. If I installed the xd dogbone mount instead of the Yaris one (seen in the picture) the mount would be perfectly straight.


Here is how much room is between the trans and the crash bar with the Yaris trans mount, xd trans bracket, Yaris (I have polyurethane in the mount making it a solid bushing):


Here is how it was with the XD trans mount and bracket, Yaris dogbone bracket and xd dogbone mount:


Now the enigne/trans does not move when the left wheel is spun and the car is raised off the ground. Under hard cornering there is no issues and I can now feel some slight play in the left cv axle when installed on the car (this is a good thing as it means it's not binding or fully compressed).

For some unknown reason, the sedan seems to have less width in the engine bay, or the mounting locations seems to be closer together than in the LB. The 2zr swaps in the LB's seems to have no issues with axle compression regardless of what mounts are installed.
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Old 06-15-2017, 03:21 PM   #51
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Quick update:

Car is running strong, I do a handful of WOT runs almost every day and have had zero issues. The long term fuel trims are fluctuating between -14 and -18 consistently, the engine runs fine so this is likely d/t my aftermarket exhaust and CAI as this happened on my 1nz once I had the exhaust fabricated. I check for exhaust leaks and there are none.

With the type of driving I do I am still averaging 6.6L/100km which is really impressive so no complaints there. I have a slight oil drip coming from where I installed the adapter into the block for my oil gauge senders. I figured this would happen eventually as it was never really meant as a permanent solution.

I have ordered the oil filter adapter so I can go to a regular spin on filter and I'll be installing a glowshift sandwich adapter so I can read proper oil temps again and get rid of the oil leak. that's all for now
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Old 06-16-2017, 01:14 PM   #52
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Thanks for the information on the rear mount in regards to the axle compression. Was a little concerned when reading this as I thought it would be the same on the liftback. Hopefully everything goes as smoothly as Cranky's swap when I swap my liftback.
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Old 06-16-2017, 02:38 PM   #53
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You shouldnt have any issues with your LB. Just keep the old Yairs mounts just in case. Easiest way to test the axles after the swap is to unweight the front wheels so the suspension is fully extended and use your hand to turn one from wheel at a time as fast as you can. Your transmission/engine should not wiggle. If that checks out then put the car in first year and let the front weels spin and you should not hear or feel any banging.

You can save yourself all this trouble and some money by just keeping all your mounts for the Yaris and only using an xd engine mount (passenger side)
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Old 06-16-2017, 02:56 PM   #54
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Thanks for the heads up montague, read cranky's thread a while back and saw that he and frogger used all XD mounts and cables. Still weighing my options as I'm tackling suspension and braking first. Have you had any issues with the "under hood" SSK and the xD cables?
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