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Old 11-11-2014, 10:33 PM   #19
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I really hate scca rules sometimes. I have to keep telling myself there has to be rules to make the competition fair :x
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Old 11-12-2014, 04:34 AM   #20
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It's not that bad. It's just people don't like to read these days. I see this all the time. People will always ask someone else before they read the book themselves. Grammar also plays a part, like what I just broke down. You gotta pay attention to commas, periods and paragraphs. How is the sentence being used in this paragraph. So when someone asked someone about a rule, they are going by memory and their interpretation.
So that alone will play into the effect of asking the solo chair, be cause he has the final call on that current solo event. If he says, shoulder harness' are not allowed unless you have a Targa top or convertible, then that's the rules of that event. Unless you want to pull the book out and challenge it.

I need to know the rules because I am the Solo Chair in my region. I get these kinda things all the time. I have to dissect the rules in every class and car
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Old 12-28-2014, 06:43 PM   #21
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So I have been doing more thinking. Tire rack says the largest tire that is guaranteed fit is a 215. Are there rubbing issues with coilovers and a functional amount of negative camber? Also thinking about a good exhaust setup for n/a. 2" or 2.25" high flow cat glass packs something that will be relatively quiet while having some kind of cat and being least restrictive. Maybe a side dump exhaust for less piping
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Old 12-29-2014, 03:13 PM   #22
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Either 2" or 2 1/4" is fine.. wouldn't go any higher than that. As far as tires. The new rules state that treadwear has to be at least 200. Hankook, Toyo, or BFGoodrich hasn't released their new 200 treadwear tires yet (RS3, R1R, or Rivals). Which are suppose to be the competitive tires. They still have 140 treadwear on the shelves still. You probably wont see them for a couple of weeks yet, but when you do, I would hurry up and order them asap before they run out of stock.

For rubbing. Rules say you can not modify the fenders or liner to accommodate for wider tires and offset. I run 225/45 on my 15x7 rim. about 2.5 neg camber on the front, stock on the rear on Megan coilovers. BUT, if the tire rubs the fender liner til there is a hole there, its technically still OEM. just some wear. as long as the fender liner is there. Mine has worn off completely, and where it has worn, I have just used a drimmel to trim it up a bit but not actually take it out.
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Old 12-29-2014, 05:53 PM   #23
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I was wrong, the 200 tread wear is now available from TireRack.com in Rivals and RS3 v2. The Toyo R1R are still at 140 treadwear. Give it time.

Only downfall they are only available in 195 in 15's... that sux
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Old 12-29-2014, 06:18 PM   #24
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The biggest reason I want to run camber right now is that I get obscenely uneven treadwear. Only the outer half (pretty much literally) shows wear after track/auto_x use. What camber setting would be good just to see even tread wear?

Right now I am using 2 sets of tires one for daily driving and one I change out in the parking lot for track events. If there was a good balance between too much wear on the inside for my daily tires and too much wear on the outside for my track tires that would be easiest with what I have now.

Otherwise I'm planning on a set of 225s to run as a set of summer tires and then switch my current dailys for some winter tires. I'm thinking this because maybe there isn't a good compromise between even wear for 2 sets of tires.

Maybe this is a bit confusing because I'm talking about doing a few different things here
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Old 12-29-2014, 06:19 PM   #25
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Also if there were camber plates to make camber setting changes on the fly that would be sweet too. Maybe the best option
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Old 12-30-2014, 07:16 AM   #26
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The rear have camber shims that are pretty much what your asking for as far as swapping on the fly, but that is just the rear.

You are asking to have your cake and eat it too. I run -2.5 in the front like I said. This is a very good setup for DD and track driving for me. If you are going to be wearing your street tires out using this camber, then the only other option is to have your tires flipped every 5k miles to get the most out of them. When I say flipped, I mean taking your tire to the shop and having the same tire on the same rim flipped so the outer is now the inner and inner is now the outer. A lot of autocrossers so this also. I have been fortunate to not have this problem.

Again, my track tires are 225/45 on a 15x7 with offset of -40 and my DD are 205/50 on a 15x7.5 with offset of -30

Track tires with RS3 I run 40psi up front and 55psi in the rear
If I run R1R, I run 30psi up front and 45psi in the rear.

my DD I run 40psi all around
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Old 12-30-2014, 11:54 PM   #27
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If only the world was that simple and I could have my cake and eat it. Thanks very much for your advice. We shall see what happens next season
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Old 12-31-2014, 08:46 PM   #28
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I run -3.5 when my car was my DD didn't really make all that much of a difference as far as tire wear goes toe was the only thing that really caused bad tire wear. At one point I even had -4.5 camber if the car was better dynamically I probably would have stayed with that much camber, but power and braking suffered too much to keep it. I run rear camber as well I use .5mm shims on the hub works pretty well.
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Old 12-31-2014, 09:18 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ilikerice View Post
Track tires with RS3 I run 40psi up front and 55psi in the rear
If I run R1R, I run 30psi up front and 45psi in the rear.
Just curious, how did you end up at those pressures? Maximize front grip, then tune rear to suit driving style?
My car runs about 10psi more up front than rear in HS and HS-R. Obviously I need more front pressure to keep the edges alive with stock springs, but the car savagely understeers if the rear pressures are any less than 10psi lower than front.

Also, how bad is the extra weight of the 225s and do you get enough heat in them every run?

Thanks.
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Old 12-31-2014, 09:26 PM   #30
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Regarding camber: I am also running about -2.8° and I wouldn't suggest any more (or any less really). I've tried a few different amounts of front camber (free alignments) and the loss of traction in braking and acceleration is just starting to show up with -2.8°. If your tires are wearing well you could drop down to -2.5° to gain that traction back, but I don't know that any Yaris would avoid edge wear due to the high CG.
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Old 01-01-2015, 01:09 AM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CoryM View Post
Regarding camber: I am also running about -2.8° and I wouldn't suggest any more (or any less really). I've tried a few different amounts of front camber (free alignments) and the loss of traction in braking and acceleration is just starting to show up with -2.8°. If your tires are wearing well you could drop down to -2.5° to gain that traction back, but I don't know that any Yaris would avoid edge wear due to the high CG.
At -4.5 with 500f springs I was able to get even tire wear. It was a good setup for the most part but the car just really wanted to lock em up.
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Old 01-01-2015, 11:05 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CoryM View Post
Just curious, how did you end up at those pressures? Maximize front grip, then tune rear to suit driving style?
My car runs about 10psi more up front than rear in HS and HS-R. Obviously I need more front pressure to keep the edges alive with stock springs, but the car savagely understeers if the rear pressures are any less than 10psi lower than front.

Also, how bad is the extra weight of the 225s and do you get enough heat in them every run?

Thanks.
Cory
Well, the 225 are only 1 extra pound per tire compared to the 195.
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires....del=Proxes+R1R

I will sacrifice some acceleration for the extra grip. As far as keeping heat. I don't have that much of a problem. They are not R-comps, so they don't need to be above 200 degrees in order to be sticky. RS3 are fine after the 1st run. They hold 150 up until my next run. Granted, there is no way of me knowing how hot they get while I am running. After I park in grid, I will check the temps and my fronts are usually 200ish across the tire and my rear are 180ish outer and usually 10 degrees less on the inner. Probably due to the high tire pressure. I am sure if I got .5 shims in the back that I could get the heat the same across the rear tires, but I dont want any more grip in the rear that I have already.

I get my tire pressures from experience and my driving style. I like my rear to swing out when I come up to a turn or during a turn when I lift off the throttle. I would rather lift off the throttle than left foot brake to maintain my momentum during any kind of turn.

With that said, The R1R like little bit of pressure unlike the RS3. R1R if more than 35psi, I get more under-steer than I like. Even with 30 psi up front, I am still wearing out the tires evenly. The shoulders on the R1R are very tough and dont flex as much as the RS3 either.

The RS3 like more pressure up front because they have a softer side wall and will roll on it if the pressure is not enough. A lot of heavier cars wont run RS3 in Street Touring class because of this. They will run Direzza Star Specs because of the side wall issue.

Hope this clears up my reasoning behind my choice in tire pressures. Again, its all about driver style, trial and error.
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Old 01-01-2015, 12:30 PM   #33
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Thanks for the info.
I think I'll probably stick with 205/50 NT01 this year as they are my street tires as well: That extra mass (in the worst spot possible) just gets too painful going up the hills around here. Heat wise, I'm going to guess lack of temp is more of an issue here than Ga. I also do a winter autoX series and run the NT01 until about 10°C wet or dry (which can be exciting).
I think the soft front springs are crippling the car too much to "properly" set it up. If I make it any more tail-happy, it is going to be too hard to control on turn-in. The car will rotate a little off-throttle in corners but not great. But then again, I am used to rwd so not sure how to judge.

I've decided since the rule changes make it impossible for me to compete on NT01s that I don't care about PAX anymore. Next step is LSD :)
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Old 01-02-2015, 11:21 AM   #34
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I have been driving FWD since I got my license in 1999. I had a miata for a couple months that my dad wanted me to sell it for him. I almost kept it. People say I can power slide like I drive a RWD, haha

LSD, I second that. The yaris is painful to drive with out it. It is definitely on my next Item to purchase before I go turbo.
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Old 05-20-2015, 09:00 PM   #35
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Yaris is now FSP legal.

#16432 Yaris, Fit, Versa Classing Proposal
Per the SPAC, add the following new listings in Appendix A, effective immediately upon publication:
FSP
Honda
Fit
Nissan
Versa (2007-15)
Toyota
Yaris
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Old 05-20-2015, 10:43 PM   #36
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Might as well post up my setup...
Engine- AEM cold air intake, DC header, Magnaflow custom 2" cat--back, NST crank pulley, Simota oil catch can.

Suspension- Tein Basis coilovers(testing purposes only, Normally TRD springs and Tokico HP), Whiteline control arm bushings, TRD strut top mounts, TRD rear sway bar, Eibac crash bolts.

Brakes- Stoptech slotted rotors, MI brake lines, Hawk HP pads

Enkei RPF1 15x7 + Dunlop Z2 205/50R15

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