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Old 10-20-2006, 11:56 AM   #19
hasher22
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shweeet ;)

Keep us updated...
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Old 10-20-2006, 12:06 PM   #20
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Just concerned me that nothing is lighting up, and the dimmer switch doesnt work anymore >.<, I guess its just that "Oh SHIT did I break my Brand new/First new car?!?"
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Old 10-20-2006, 01:02 PM   #21
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I've blown prob like 5-6 fuses... I'm a dumba$$ and dont always double check stuff .

But just pull the fuses out one by one (or check the fuse cover and take a guess as to what one might be blown and check it). Its simple enough, that way you can determine if you need to re-do the led or if you fried the controller....

good luck.
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Old 10-20-2006, 01:11 PM   #22
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fried the controller?... why does that not sound like somthing I want?
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Old 10-20-2006, 01:35 PM   #23
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cause its prob like a 2-4 day wait and most likely $70-100
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Old 10-20-2006, 01:54 PM   #24
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what are the conditions under which these bulbs should light? Key is in the ON Position, and Headlights are Activated? I dont have to actually start the car right?

Im gonna end up doing some playing around after work, so I just want to make sure everything goes nice.
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Old 10-20-2006, 03:00 PM   #25
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no you dont need to have the car on for the knob lights to come on.. unless the HB is different from the sedan.
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Old 10-20-2006, 05:21 PM   #26
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Remember Guys these Are Light Emitting Diodes, L.E.D. Therefore they have polarity You must check to see that the positive leads are installed to the positive terminal on each bulb. Other wise it will be in foward bias and draw all kinds of current, blowing fuses and dragging down dimmer circuits. Using a test light to metal ground you should be able to detemine which pc pads are the hot ones. I VOM would be best to check polarity. Diodes draw very little current in one direction and alot the other direction.
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Old 10-20-2006, 06:57 PM   #27
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Nice stuff vodka, good to see you made spacers for the Sedan Rear!
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Old 10-20-2006, 11:22 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kitt
in the step #10, there is a resister, can you take a closer picture of it or tell me what colors do the resistor has, or if you know what value is the resistor can you tell me?
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Old 10-21-2006, 02:20 PM   #29
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430 Ω +/-5%, just what I tought... Thanks buddy!!!!
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Old 10-25-2006, 03:53 PM   #30
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so I did this mod today with bare LED's and resistors... and I used a damn 330Ω resistor... and my LEDs are dim as fuck.... so I am going to have to pull it all apart again and use a 220Ω or somethin.. BTW I am using a 5V 30mA LED


Damn it... just went to a 220Ω resistor, and not much better results.... wonderin if the damn thing can take a full 12 volts?
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Old 10-26-2006, 09:00 AM   #31
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Could be worth a Try, Like I said, the 2 Fuses you'll run trouble into are the Panel 1 and the... ahh crap, its the 7.5 right next to it.

Either way. I got my LEDs from AutoIllumination, they look GREAT! Thanks Violin for the heads up!
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Old 10-26-2006, 07:20 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Black Yaris
so I did this mod today with bare LED's and resistors... and I used a damn 330Ω resistor... and my LEDs are dim as fuck.... so I am going to have to pull it all apart again and use a 220Ω or somethin.. BTW I am using a 5V 30mA LED


Damn it... just went to a 220Ω resistor, and not much better results.... wonderin if the damn thing can take a full 12 volts?
Nope, if you put 12v on them you will burn them, i used a 620Ω and it worked fine, i have the LEDs on the A/C control panel and it looks great, they may not glow as the original incandescent bulbs because they shine in several directions and the LEDs only to the front, i'll post some pics ina few minutes...
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Old 10-26-2006, 07:32 PM   #33
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with a 330Ω resistor it barely lit the LED when I jumped it to the battery.... got about 2X brighter with the 220Ω... The formula to find out what you need is (Source V-desired V)/mA=Ω basicly take the diference in source voltage and desired voltage and divide it by the current draw from the LED (this is posted on the package) to get the proper impedence of the resistor... so I went (12V-5V)/.03A=233.3333Ω now you are suposed to go to the next highest impedence which was 330Ω (next highest I could find).... no good.... so I read the LED box better.. it says it can take up to 6 volts... so I plugged that in...... came up with 200Ω... next one up was 220Ω.... again I say WTF?
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Old 10-26-2006, 09:22 PM   #34
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i went ahead and used the website that paultyler_82 recomended me http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homep...Bowden/led.htm and that's the value it gave me (620Ω), which worked fine with my LEDs, it is not too bright as posted in the picture below because it has like a transparent plastic inside the panel which spreads the light, but the LED's glow to the front only, i purchased my LED's in a electronics shop (50 cents each) it uses only two but if you connect the LEDs without mounting them in the panel they are way much brighter, maybe i'll add some more. Below is the LED that i am using too



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Old 11-13-2006, 10:00 PM   #35
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Has anyone just tried stripping the color condom off? The dash is illuminated in a bright white, so I thought maybe the knobs would look cool if they sort of matched it. I might go do this right now...
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Old 11-14-2006, 06:23 AM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grimez
Has anyone just tried stripping the color condom off? The dash is illuminated in a bright white, so I thought maybe the knobs would look cool if they sort of matched it. I might go do this right now...
thats how I have mine... but with the condoms off its a yellow color, not white. So I ordered some bright white LEDs to replace all the green/yellow stock bulbs
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