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Old 05-07-2010, 10:59 PM   #1
stevebo
 
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Need help replacing acessory drive belt!!!

Hey guys, I have a problem with my 2007 Yaris sedan----I m way over due to replace the accessory drive belt, so I bought one at my local parts store. According to the maintenance manual all I have to do is loosen 2 bolts on the alternator and take the belt off. The top bolt was easy, but I wasnt able to break the bottom bolt loose-----there isnt much room to work with and its really tight. (I even used a good snapon 14 mm socket, and it was so tight the socket rotated and rounded off the nut-----at that point I stopped knowing that if I go much further Im going to break something.) Let me say this, Im no stranger to tools and engines----Ive been a professional aircraft mechanic for 20 years-----so whats the deal? Please tell me toyota didnt do something stupid like put a left hand threaded bolt in that position? Any suggestions? Im about to the point where Im going to have to take it to the dealer and let them get it loose----and that really ticks me off, since it would be a really cheap and easy job if I could the the #@@$*&&^^&***&$### lower bolt loose! Has any one else ran into this problem?
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Old 05-08-2010, 01:07 AM   #2
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Hmm, I did notice the lack of space. Next time spray some liquid wrench or pentrating oil and let it sit a while. I believe Snap on makes special sockets for rounded off bolt heads.
Check sears also. It sounds like you are using air tools right?
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Old 05-08-2010, 08:50 AM   #3
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Yes that second bolt was hard to loosen on my ECHO. Snap on sockets wouldnt have rounded the nut. They drive on the flat of the nut not the corners. So spray some Liquid wrench or equal and have at it again. If it was mine i would take a torch to it.
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Old 05-09-2010, 07:54 PM   #4
stevebo
 
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actually, I was using a snapon 12 point socket---and was using a large breaker bar----snap on sockets are excellent, so I was pretty surprised when it rounded off the corners! Ill take your advice and spray liquid wrench on it and try in a few days-----thanks for the advice!
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Old 05-09-2010, 09:10 PM   #5
bobolinko
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It will be very easy if:

You should FIRST, Spray a little PB, wait 30 minutes or so and then spray it again. Then use a 6-point socket to remove that bolt. It's hard, but it will come off much easier when you use that PB Catalyst. Trust me !

http://www.amazon.com/Blaster-Chemic.../dp/B0010E4FTW

The PB shoots like a water gun so don't fret when you see no red tube to spray the bolt using the can. It's REALLY good at taking bolts off. I couldn't remove my CAT bolts with an impact wrench 250 f/p and it was making the head of the bolts off-shape. Sprayed the PB and 30 minutes later, on the second impact like (Tack-Tack whirr), the bolt came spinning out like on steroids.
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Old 03-21-2011, 02:29 PM   #6
dyslexicanaboko
 
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I am looking for some advice on the exact same issue. I have worked on a number of cars, although not being a mechanic, still for the basic stuff it isn't rocket science.

However I was trying to change my belt and I ran into the same problem of having no room to work in and having the #$&*&!? A/C conduit in the way of the belt. So I made attempts with my socket wrench, it was a no go, I tried a box wrench and that is when I rounded the nut, a 14mm anything no longer works.

My question is, should I just stop trying, suck it up and go to a mechanic , or should I try:

Using the PB Lube (mentioned above). Then with a cresent wrench or other tool; hope to loosen the bolt?

The points on the bolt are rounded, but the flat portions are partially still intact.
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Old 03-21-2011, 03:39 PM   #7
pennyracer
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i have a long matco 14mm box end wrench that is long and has the right angel on it that bolt is a tight one but pull it like you stolled it and it will come loose i use padded glove to get more tourqe on my wrnch worked grate for me just did mine yesterday good luck
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Old 03-21-2011, 03:54 PM   #8
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That bottom bolt is a pain in the ass!! But if all fails here's what I did by you having the top bolt loose you can use a rubber mallet and tap the alternator she will loosen up with no problem, but use the end of something rubber while you tap the alternator install the belt then with a crow bar tighten her up and you are good to go.
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Old 03-21-2011, 04:00 PM   #9
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Funny, I've never experienced a problem with that bolt despite all the horror stories I've read.

Quote:
Originally Posted by big lo View Post
then with a crow bar tighten her up and you are good to go.
Beware the OCV on the block beside the alternator. Many, many a people have busted it when prying on the alternator.
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Old 03-21-2011, 04:10 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WeeYari View Post
Funny, I've never experienced a problem with that bolt despite all the horror stories I've read.



Beware the OCV on the block beside the alternator. Many, many a people have busted it when prying on the alternator.
You are so right about that, but I hope we are not dealing with a caveman lol, take your time and look to where its best to pry the alternator, good luck once again
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Old 03-22-2011, 01:22 AM   #11
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Loosen the AC line bracket (10mm bolt) and push it aside. Then you can get at the 14mm bottom bolt of the alternator with a breaker bar or wrench. I recommend using a socket and a breaker bar, less chance of stripping the bolt.
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Old 03-22-2011, 09:41 PM   #12
dyslexicanaboko
 
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It is very funny that you all mentioned that, because that is exactly what I did. I took a hammer that has a padded handle, placed the handle on the alternator then went to town on it with a rubber mallot to beat it out of the way. Then exactly like described above I pried it back into place with a breaker bar.

The only down side to all of this is that I still stripped that bolt pretty bad, here is what has been stewing in the back of my mind... What happens when I need to change the alternator?

I'm pretty f-ed when it comes to that :(

I don't think a box wrench will help me at this junction since a 14mm anything just jiggles on it. I am probably going to take a trip to sears to see what I can pull off, but first I am going to purchase a new replacement bolt just in case I can get it off.

Thank you for the replies, much appreciated.

Last edited by dyslexicanaboko; 03-22-2011 at 09:42 PM. Reason: spelling
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Old 03-25-2011, 10:30 AM   #13
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pricey

Quote:
Originally Posted by bobolinko View Post
You should FIRST, Spray a little PB, wait 30 minutes or so and then spray it again. Then use a 6-point socket to remove that bolt. It's hard, but it will come off much easier when you use that PB Catalyst. Trust me !

http://www.amazon.com/Blaster-Chemic.../dp/B0010E4FTW

The PB shoots like a water gun so don't fret when you see no red tube to spray the bolt using the can. It's REALLY good at taking bolts off. I couldn't remove my CAT bolts with an impact wrench 250 f/p and it was making the head of the bolts off-shape. Sprayed the PB and 30 minutes later, on the second impact like (Tack-Tack whirr), the bolt came spinning out like on steroids.
You can get that a walmart a lot cheaper
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Old 04-07-2011, 02:57 PM   #14
dyslexicanaboko
 
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So I want to share something that I learned here. Loosening the bottom bolt is not impossible, it is just a pain in the ass like a majority of us have said already. I am going to basically reiterate what was said above:

+Use the PB Lube (or equivalent) and let it work

+Use a Short 6 Point Socket or 6 Point Box Wrench (Circular Side, Not the Open Side!)

+DO NOT USE a box wrench that has more than 6 points, that will guarantee round off! I already tested this theory out twice already, ended in disaster once and the second time I caught myself before rounding the bolt (Two Different Yarises).

+Use something to gain leverage so you have more torque. My problem right now is my socket wrench is too short I need to get a breaker bar and I should be good. Some people recommend using a pipe, I think using a breaker bar would better, plus you will reuse it in the future.
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