My 2zrfe swap

[brushforhire]

Originally Posted by tmontague

where are you guys finding the rpm package listed? I'm struggling to find the proper set up on line anywhere

You can find the Scion XD RPM setup here: fastscions.

The only make it for the 2zrfe, if you were searching for the 1nzfe, that might be why you are having trouble finding it.

I got the axles popped out, but left them in the knuckles because the axle nuts were so rusted up. I have the struts off, so at least they have a bit of wiggle room.

So all I gotta do is unhook the fuel rail connector, and undo the three mounts and I should be good to take the engine out.

I am planning to lift it by the outer two mounts.

I removed the lower tie bar also for more room.

I am thinking I just might fab up a midpipe myself. I am so torn, I was kicking around getting the OBX catless system and welding in a new flange and cat, but it is stainless, and I don't know how tricky stainless to mild steel would be to weld.

[tmontague]

spray the crap out of the axle nuts with some PB Blaser a few times each day. Then when everything is back installed used a massive breaker bar or preferably an air gun. Better to spend the time now and release them before it becomes too late and you can't when you need to.

When I installed my rear axle spacers the hubs needed to be air chiseled off. It was a huge pain but I was glad I did it. After re installing with proper anti seize when ever I needed to change my rear hub I can do so relatively easily.

The other option to pull the engine is to go to the dealership and get the 2 engine hoise hooks with 1 bolt each that mounts into the front passenger side and rear drivers side of the engine. However, you way should also work fine, the engine is light.

[brushforhire]

Woot! Engine and trans came out this morning.

Received the engine and most of the parts today at work. In the truck waiting to get unloaded. Still gotta collect a few oddball pieces and I will be good to go.

I went ahead and ordered a Takeda cold air intake, for this. Along with my Megan coilovers. Still kicking around what I want to do for the exhaust.

[ArmstrongRacing]

Awesome!!

[beaker]

Originally Posted by brushforhire

Woot! Engine and trans came out this morning.

Received the engine and most of the parts today at work. In the truck waiting to get unloaded. Still gotta collect a few oddball pieces and I will be good to go.

I went ahead and ordered a Takeda cold air intake, for this. Along with my Megan coilovers. Still kicking around what I want to do for the exhaust.

I know it's pricey, but you have got to go with the RPM setup. Gotta see how much can be squeezed out of this motor.

[tmontague]

^i second that. The RPM exhaust is a beauty piece and I have a feeling it'll be good for some gains. Keep in mind the 2zr is going in an extremely light car meant for a weaker engine so even small gains will be felt pretty good.

I'm convinced when my engine start to burn oil in the next decade i'll be swapping in a used 2zr instead of re building and installing a Blitz s/c. As much fun as a boosted set up would be an additional 30 hp/tq all engine would be better

[ArmstrongRacing]

If the 2zr responds to headers like the 1nz does....you can expect gains of 10+Hp!
http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=11821

[brushforhire]

Just a small update, the Takeda intake won't work because it reuses the factory MAF sensor tube, and I don't have that. This was not mentioned anywhere in the auction.

Ordered a flexplate from ebay, so that should hopefully be here soon.

[CrankyOldMan]

Originally Posted by brushforhire

Just a small update, the Takeda intake won't work because it reuses the factory MAF sensor tube, and I don't have that. This was not mentioned anywhere in the auction.

Ordered a flexplate from ebay, so that should hopefully be here soon.

Sure enough, the pics on the aFe website show the OEM MAF tube in there. What a weird thing to do.

[brushforhire]

Yeah, I didn't realize that it was the oem piece until I had it in my hands and realized they wanted you to reuse the stock piece. I would have expected better considering that it wasn't a cheapo intake. The seller is working with me to try and find me one though.

I get why they did it though, easier than trying to figure out the correct mounting and depth of the MAF. From what I was reading alot of the intakes don't mount the sensor at the correct depth and it throws codes. I noticed alot of the other intakes having a smaller section where it mounts to make up for this. Which seems weird to just have a bottle neck in there like that.

[CrankyOldMan]

The real bumer is that you can't find them cheap on eBay, and they're too new to be in you-pick-yards.

[ArmstrongRacing]

The cheapest stock airbox I found was $120....On Ebay

[brushforhire]

The seller actually found a piece from another toytota for $39 shipped that looks almost exactly the same. They are refunding me $20, to help pay for it. So I will give it a shot and see what happens.

Either way I will keep you updated.

So I am waiting on the flexplate, that intake piece, and trying to figure out what I want to do for the exhaust. I am thinking I am just gonna pull the trigger on the RPM long tube setup. I have my welder, but by the time I piece out the cat, flex tube, flanges, o2 bung, resonator, etc. I will be probably over halfway there anyways.

In the meantime I'm gonna finish cleaning up the engine bay, and then probably just spray it all black.

I did get the passenger side axle out. The drivers side it probably gonna stay in. The end no longer even has threads, just rusted solid. The passenger side came out with relatively little effort, considering the miles on it.

I did notice alot of my bushing are looking rough. I am thinking it's time for whiteline bushing kit.

I will try and get some currect pics up later today.

[ArmstrongRacing]

Good work man!

[brushforhire]

Okay well slow progress going on, and a bit of a surprise.

Here is the car in it's sorta current state:
car.JPG
The wheel well:
fender.JPG

Working on cleaning as much as I can, I would like to spray it gloss black just to give it another coat and protect it a bit.

The surprise was that I actually managed to get the drivers side axle out.
The rusted mess:
crappy axle.JPG
I didn't think there was anyway that nut was ever going to come off, but I kept messing with it. I actually tried to tighten it, and then hit it real quick in reverse and I started to come right off.
axle nut off.JPG
This tool was some of the best money I ever invested:
impact.JPG
Ryobi one+ 1/2 impact. I have really worked it hard, and it just keeps going. I used it to take the rear end off of my 2000 tundra, and it plowed right through the rusty bolts and nuts there, too.

Some of the other tools I am using to do this job, just so people can see what it takes to do this:
crane.JPG
tool kit.JPG

The old engine and new engine:
old engine.JPG
new engine.JPG

I will be buying a tap and die kit to redo a number of the smaller 10mm bolts that snapped right off, trying to take them out.

It really is just basic tools that anyone should have, if they are considering doing this themselves.

So far this has been an interesting job, seeing as that I am doing it completely solo.

I was hoping to have this done in the next week, but I am gonna take my time and work on fixing the bushings and any other small stuff I find to save me from having to tear this stuff down again.

[Frank the Tank]

How much was the engine lift? There's one at my work that hardly gets any use that maybe my boss can lend me when I get this going (which won't be for a while. Suspension, brakes and tires are first on the list)

[ArmstrongRacing]

Youre supposed to unbolt the torque converter from the flexplate, not pull it out of the trans. Haha. Otherwise good work!

[brushforhire]

The engine lift ran me $180. I got it on sale at harbor freight. I like it because the front legs fold up for easier storage. It is the tow ton lift. The 1 ton lift is usually $180.

Originally Posted by ArmstrongRacing

Youre supposed to unbolt the torque converter from the flexplate, not pull it out of the trans. Haha. Otherwise good work!

LoL, I kinda wondered that after I got it apart.

For future reference I would unbolt the torque converter in the car, because it is a pain to get to the underside of the engine while hanging from the lift.