J/B connector replacement

[marioinc]

Hello, I've been looking all over the place, but can't seem to find Junction Box connectors (In my specific case, the instrument panel J/B in front of the left knee in left hand drive cars). For example if I want the 4E, or 4D (instrument panel J/B n.4) connector (either male or female) i can't seem to find any. So either I'm not searching right, or they're not available (really??)

At the end of the EWD there is the parts list for inbetween connectors, (the ones that start with a letter, like D4 etc..) but not for J/B connectors.

What am I missing?

[CTScott]

The connectors do have separate part numbers, but the pins are sold separately, so a connector will cost about $12 and then each pin will cost about the same, so with a connector like 4E, you will spend well over $100 for the connector and pins.

I have most connectors on hand from wiring harnesses that I have purchased or extracted from parted-out cars. If you let me know which you are looking for, I can see if I have them on hand.

[marioinc]

Thanks for the reply and for offering the connectors you have, I appreciate it.
I realized, it would be better if I wrote WHY i need them, cause maybe there's an easier (and cheaper) way...

I want to connect an MCU to some things, like headlights, horn, door locks, etc, BUT it needs to be removable so no soldering or wire taps.

I was looking to make some sort of short 10cm "passthrough extension cable", plug in the original connector at one end, the other end in the J/B, and then solder the connections directly to the extension cables in between.
This way to go back, you just unplug the "extension cable" and plug the original back in, with no original wires cut or anything.
The only alternative I can think of would be to to the same but at the connectors between two wire harnesses... But the cost would probably be the same...

But again, it would probably cost too much since it's four whole connectors for just maybe 10 wires total...
I was thinking of connecting to a 4J (to ground headlights relay and high beams), 4S (for tail relay and hazards switch), 4H (for door lock/unlock), and maybe 4B or 4E to ground the horn relay...


Any ideas to make these connections, with the possibility to take everything out without any traces??
Any help is very much appreciated.

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by marioinc

Thanks for the reply and for offering the connectors you have, I appreciate it.
I realized, it would be better if I wrote WHY i need them, cause maybe there's an easier (and cheaper) way...

I want to connect an MCU to some things, like headlights, horn, door locks, etc, BUT it needs to be removable so no soldering or wire taps.

I was looking to make some sort of short 10cm "passthrough extension cable", plug in the original connector at one end, the other end in the J/B, and then solder the connections directly to the extension cables in between.
This way to go back, you just unplug the "extension cable" and plug the original back in, with no original wires cut or anything.
The only alternative I can think of would be to to the same but at the connectors between two wire harnesses... But the cost would probably be the same...

But again, it would probably cost too much since it's four whole connectors for just maybe 10 wires total...
I was thinking of connecting to a 4J (to ground headlights relay and high beams), 4S (for tail relay and hazards switch), 4H (for door lock/unlock), and maybe 4B or 4E to ground the horn relay...


Any ideas to make these connections, with the possibility to take everything out without any traces??
Any help is very much appreciated.

OK. The problem there is the harness connectors are available, but the junction block connectors are not (unless you cut apart a junction block to harvest the connectors from).

Another option would be to use male and female connector pins, where you pop the exiting pin out of the harness connector and then insert a replacement in its place and use one of the opposite gender pins to connect to the popped pin. You would then heat shrink over the loose male/female. Then, you can easily remove everything without any indication that things were ever disturbed.

[marioinc]

Hey thanks again for your reply Scott.

Definitely going to go this route.
I thought about this early on, but was afraid of messing up the plastic taking them out, since I saw some having issues even after unlocking it. But others seem to have no problem at all, so a little patience will probably do? Got any tips maybe?

Just one more thing, do you think standard electronic pins would do, or are they different? They look close to standard... But then, I haven't looked very closely... Is it worth getting the toyota oem connectors pins?

Thanks again for all the help, to you Scott, and anybody else who can help.

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by marioinc

Hey thanks again for your reply Scott.

Definitely going to go this route.
I thought about this early on, but was afraid of messing up the plastic taking them out, since I saw some having issues even after unlocking it. But others seem to have no problem at all, so a little patience will probably do? Got any tips maybe?

Just one more thing, do you think standard electronic pins would do, or are they different? They look close to standard... But then, I haven't looked very closely... Is it worth getting the toyota oem connectors pins?

Thanks again for all the help, to you Scott, and anybody else who can help.

You will definitely need the special Toyota ones for the connector side. I am almost positive that I have both male and female pins for everything that you will need for those connections. Pins weigh so little, that even with shipping from here to Italy, I should be able to save you quite a bit.

[marioinc]

Well I'd really appreciate that, thank you very much for everything.