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10-28-2021, 06:43 PM | #1 |
Drives: 2010 Toyota Yaris 3D LB Join Date: Oct 2021
Location: Bethlehem, PA
Posts: 2
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Roof Drip Molding replacement on 2010 3D LB
I'm trying to replace the LH and RH roof drip moldings on my 2010 Yaris 3D LB.
I purchased (2x) of 75551-52130 (same part used on both sides). https://parts.toyota.com/p/Toyota__/...555152130.html The LH molding went in fine but I can't get the RH molding to sit flat, it keeps lifting off the roof in the middle after I press it down. Anyone else have struggles like this? I might just glue it down and be down with it :) or maybe try swapping the new LH and RH parts to see if that works. The old RH molding didn't sit flat either and was bouncing/vibrating on the highway which is why I purchased a new one. Maybe the gap/flush is off on my Yaris from factory or from a previous owner accident. Installation for reference (sedan but basically the same thing): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TM_z...nel=burrheadjr Thanks! |
10-28-2021, 07:37 PM | #2 |
2ZR swap. DO IT! Ask how!
Drives: 09 Meteoric Metallic HB Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: West Michigan
Posts: 2,333
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You might have to replace the clips that hold them in. They're attached with some adhesive/tape, iirc. I bought them but never installed them and just removed the failing moldings. They're just cosmetic to cover the weld seams, right?
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11-13-2021, 12:02 PM | #3 |
Drives: 2010 Toyota Yaris 3D LB Join Date: Oct 2021
Location: Bethlehem, PA
Posts: 2
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Thanks for the suggestion! However, my clips looked fine and the ends of the trim clipped in nicely.
I worked the trim with my hands to straighten it out more and used a heat gun when installing it again. The trim went in better (still kinda loose in the middle) but it doesn't vibrate while driving so I'm happy with how it is. If it does come loose I'll drop some Sikaflex-221 under the trim. I think the trim also helps prevent water from pooling at the weld seams and causing rust over time. |
Tags |
2010, drip, molding, roof |
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