T Montague's 2zr swap - '08 m/t sedan some extra info

[tmontague]

Alright, time for my thread to be started up. I will be starting this swap in 2 weeks during my reading week off school. I don't have a garage (just a 2 car wide short driveway) so I'm using the winter temps to not have to deal with rain. Thankfully the weather is hovering around 0-5 below Celsius so I'll hopefully avoid the "polar vortex" we had the past couple years.

Thanks to the help of the others that have already completed the swap and their willingness to pass along info, I've been able to slowly purchase the specific parts that I need.

I was able to pick up a 2zr from an auto trans '11 Corolla with 89k km on it for $600 CAD from a local yard near me. I stripped down the block and painted it to keep it clean and protect it. I installed an oil catch can as the PCV valve is hidden behind the intake manifold and it is easier to install with the engine pulled.

I'm installing a Luk Corolla clutch and aftermarket but oem weight flywheel.
My engine harness was pulled from an '08 xd m/t with a/c for an unreal price (thanks to Cranky for finding that gem and shipping me the parts). It was in great shape except for one of the engine knock sensor wires being broken. I just fixed the wire and should be good to go.

Here are the parts that I purchased for this swap - I'll add part numbers once everything it complete.
-2zr long block
-2zr a/c compressor
-2zr alternator
-xd m/t engine harness with a/c
-passenger side and driver side engine mount and bracket
-2zr clutch
-2zr flywheel
-2zr flywheel bolts
-xd maf sensor
-xd air box (top only, as yaris bottom box is compatible)
-xd top radator hose plus 4" straight piece
-xd coolant filler neck
-xd non immobilier '08 ecu (my yaris has an immo, but I'm bypassing it)
-2zr a/c compressor bolts (still unsure if 1nz bolts will also work)
-2zr timing chain tensioner gasket (commonly leaks so figured I'd change it)
-2zr drive belt for a/c
-2zr engine hooks front and rear





When I picked up my engine I put it in a stand and checked as much as I could to see what kind of shape it was in. Plugs were clean and in fine shape (iridium), cams and rockers looked clean with zero sludge under the valve cover, valves are stained but smooth and clean, oil wasn't dirty and has no metal shavings in it. Minimal rust on the bolts on the block.

My original plan was to go with the RPM long tube header and get a local exhaust shop to fabricate my current custom 2.25" exhaust to fit it. Due to the cost as well as DD drive ability (exhaust hitting firewall issues) I decided to just clean up the oem header and paint it with black ceramic paint. There is a DC header for the 2zr but online report have minimal improvements over oem. Basically, if you're going to spend the cash for an aftermarket header spend it on the RPM long tube. It just isn't as simple as a plug and play like other headers.

I'll just have the exhaust shop weld on a new ball joint flange so that it will properly fit on the 2zr header.

I'll update this thread with pics this week and I'll document how the swap goes. This is my first engine swap and I'm doing it solo (although I have the online help of others on here who have done the swap before) I have a pretty decent amount of experience working as a shade tree mechanic and I have a good amount of tools including air tools.

I'll be jacking the front of the car up and placing jack stands under the frame rails (just the front). This will allow me access to everything I'll need for the swap.

I'll be removing the front bumper, crash bar and radiator so that the engine removal and install will be much easier.

Wish me luck!