Blitz S/C + Cruise Control?

[47_MasoN_47]

Any of you Blitz guys know a way to make the S/C work with cruise control? Since the Blitz turns on via the throttle position, the cruise apparently doesn't trigger this so the boost is always off. If I'm going down the interstate and come to a hill I have to push the gas pedal just enough to get the S/C to kick in or the yaris will downshift and run the hill at 4500rpm rather than 3000 w/ boost. Does anyone know a way to make the S/C active while cruise is on?

FYI 2009 Yaris 1.5 w/ automatic.

[cali yaris]

This happens even on "Low", where the s/c kicks in at 25% throttle?

[CTScott]

That is correct. The ECM controls the throttle without modifying the output from the accelerator, so the Blitz controller does not see throttle actuation and hence does not activate the pulley when CC is on.

The only way that I can see of having boost with the OEM CC is to use an AEM FIC in place of the Blitz controller and have two maps for the FIC, one with no S/C and on with S/C. Then, you manually drive the SC pulley relay with a switch, and use the feed from that switch as the map switching input to the FIC. Doing it this way you only have on and off for the Blitz, as opposed to off and three levels of actuation.

[47_MasoN_47]

Hmm. I haven't looked into what all is required to go the F/IC route. Is that worth doing in the sense of accomplishing more than just allowing me to do SC while CC?

Do you know of any way to "trick" the Blitz controller into thinking that the throttle position is different than the ECU reports?

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by 47_MasoN_47

Hmm. I haven't looked into what all is required to go the F/IC route. Is that worth doing in the sense of accomplishing more than just allowing me to do SC while CC?

Do you know of any way to "trick" the Blitz controller into thinking that the throttle position is different than the ECU reports?

The advantage of using a F/IC with the blitz is that the blitz fuel controller is really just intended to be used with an otherwise stock car. Adding things like an intake can make the engine run lean, so the F/IC would allow you to compensate.

There really isn't an easy way of fooling the blitz controller so that it uses the S/C with CC.

[47_MasoN_47]

I probably should do that anyway. Mine throws a lean error in the ECU when I do big burnouts, which is kindof annoying and unsettling.

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by 47_MasoN_47

I probably should do that anyway. Mine throws a lean error in the ECU when I do big burnouts, which is kindof annoying and unsettling.

Lean is definitely bad. You need to either go back to the stock airbox, or go the F/IC route.

[47_MasoN_47]

I don't even have the stock airbox anymore haha. Guess I'll start saving up for an F/IC.

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by 47_MasoN_47

I don't even have the stock airbox anymore haha. Guess I'll start saving up for an F/IC.

If you read through LtNoogie's thread on his Blitz install, he actually did some experimentation with covering over a portion of his intake to bring the AFR down. You could do that as a temporary measure, until you tune with a F/IC, to avoid detonating.

[47_MasoN_47]

Do you have an AFR meter deal thing that you would recommend installing? Or some way to easily read out the AFR? I'm not sure if you can read that straight off the ECU or not, but I have torque on my droid that can read a lot of stuff off of there.

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by 47_MasoN_47

Do you have an AFR meter deal thing that you would recommend installing? Or some way to easily read out the AFR? I'm not sure if you can read that straight off the ECU or not, but I have torque on my droid that can read a lot of stuff off of there.

I use my YarGauge to display it in realtime (I use the Toyota enhanced diagnostics protocol, so I can read it faster than a standard OBDII device can). Torque may be able to display it. It won't be realtime, but should at least give you a decent idea as to how lean you are going.

[47_MasoN_47]

Is the YarGauge for sale yet? I've got a sedan, seems like that was a problem before but it's been a while since I read about it. I'll try it with torque. Do you know what the AFR is supposed to be?

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by 47_MasoN_47

Is the YarGauge for sale yet? I've got a sedan, seems like that was a problem before but it's been a while since I read about it. I'll try it with torque. Do you know what the AFR is supposed to be?

I never actually brought it to market, since the daylight readable OLED display brought it to a price tag that I though was too expensive. I am currently working on a version of it where it is a WiFi dongle that plugs into the diagnostic connector and then it can be accessed by app on iOS, Android, or PC.

The ECM will try like heck to keep the AFR at 14.7 once the car is warmed up (~13.8 during cold start). During DFCO it will sit at 18.0. When in boost you really want it under 13 and ideally 12 or a bit less at WOT with the S/C.

[47_MasoN_47]

Ok. I've noticed that when the car is cold it doesn't want to build any boost. It drives weird until its warmed up. Thanks for the info. I'll see if torque can read it when I leave for work... if my ODBII is still in the car anyway.

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by 47_MasoN_47

Ok. I've noticed that when the car is cold it doesn't want to build any boost. It drives weird until its warmed up. Thanks for the info. I'll see if torque can read it when I leave for work... if my ODBII is still in the car anyway.

You might want to check for a manifold leak. Mine boosts the same cold (even at 0 F) as warm.

[47_MasoN_47]

What's the best way to do that? Seems like if there was a leak it would have janky boost even when warm though wouldn't it?

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by 47_MasoN_47

What's the best way to do that? Seems like if there was a leak it would have janky boost even when warm though wouldn't it?

I'm thinking that once things expand it stops leaking. The best way to tell is to put a vacuum/boost gauge on the port on the Blitz manifold.

[47_MasoN_47]

I've got one of those on there already. When I get on it when the car is cold it seems to just sit at 0 until it gets warm. Think I just need to tighten the S/C down on the manifold or tighten the manifold down to the block?