Hooked battery backward, car won't start

[Katosha]

My battery died and I had replace it, in the rain, and made mistake. I hooked it up backwards. Put the negative on first and when I touched the positive, it sparked, alerting me of my error. I fixed it, but now car won't start. It turns over. Everything works. It just won't catch. Please help and thank you.

[NYC-SE]

Check your fuses, especially the one at the positive battery terminal.

[Katosha]

Thank you for responding. So, it appears the inline fuse on the positive cable was removed prior to me purchasing the car. I'm unable find diagram unsure which ones check first. Any suggestions?

[CoryM]

Have a look at this thread to show what it should look like:
http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=45606

The 3rd pic is the fuse assembly (as viewed from the bottom). You can see the metal wires inside it, these are the fuses. They will melt away when blown. If yours do not look like the picture, you need to replace the whole fuse assembly (probably only available from the dealer).

It's possible there is more damage but if they are blown (which they likely are), start there.

Good luck.

[Katosha]

Ok. So the inline fuse on the positive cable was apparently removed before I got the car. I've checked the fuses in the box in the engine compartment and they seem fine.

So, everything comes on, lights, radio etc. The starter engages, but the car won't start. It's like it's not getting gas.

Could I have fried the computer? Or the alternator? Or could it be a relay?



I really need some help knowing what to do next. I simply cannot afford to take it anywhere right now.

[KCALB SIRAY]

Take a meter to your alternator and check to see if you are getting the right charge out of it. You could have blown the coil packs too so check them as well. I'd start with these as these are the easiest to get to and the cheapest to replace if needed. Any for God's sake pony up the $80 and head to the dealer and get the inline fuse for the battery.

[CoryM]

Originally Posted by Katosha

Ok. So the inline fuse on the positive cable was apparently removed before I got the car.

So they removed it and used a bolt-on cable end to attach the cable to the battery? Something like this?

Are you able to post a picture of where the + cable bolts to the battery?

[CrankyOldMan]

Originally Posted by KCALB SIRAY

...pony up the $80 and head to the dealer and get the inline fuse for the battery.

It's only $18. Don't ask me how I know, or why I keep two spares in the garage. :D

[Katosha]

Yes. It looks just like that

[CoryM]

Originally Posted by Katosha

Yes. It looks just like that

That's..... not good. The odds of your ECU being fried are pretty high. If this was in my shop, next I would: check if a Scanner would communicate, check all fuses, check for ignition spark, and check for 5V reference. Then, depending on what I found, do a pin-out on the ECU. Honestly, I would guess at this point it is best for you to use a professional. Especially since if the ECU is required, it will need to be programmed by Toyota (or at least someone with the proper scanner). Trying to guide someone through the diag process would be very difficult and/or impossible.

I should also mention it is possible there are other components damaged: If it's enough to pop the ECU, it can kill other chips too. This could get expensive to the point you may want to see if your car insurance would cover it. I once worked on a Suburban where it was incorrectly jump-started: It fried every single chip on the truck. From the ECU to the taillight modules. We got it drivable with an ECU and antitheft stuff etc, but he took the truck away still needing a lot of money spent on all the other modules/chips. The Yaris is much simpler, so it won't be as bad as that but still not good for the bank account.