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Old 12-16-2016, 03:05 PM   #1
David C
 
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Oil pan heater for the Yaris

Instead of sticking a pad underneath the oil pan, wouldn't it be better to simply have an oil plug with an heating element sticking out ? Of course you'd have to do an oil change on the initial installation, but at least all the heat would already be absorbed and convected into the oil rather than having a silicone pad that have to transfert the heat from a layer of silicone to a tick layer of steel to finally only the edge of the oil, and in the process also wasting half of the heat thru the other exposed side of the pad (unless you sorry it with urethane insulation foam, etc). A little bit like a still for for brewing or a hot water tank. Wouldn't that work ?

And on the same topic, when it's -10° C and below, how effective any sorts of heating for the oil really is when the car is outside, exposed to wind, all night long ? My car still cranks and starts even below -30° C, but agreed it cranks longer and engine temp will take a good 10-15 minutes of driving before being able to do over 40km/h without rushing the engine. Might help the engine to crank easier if the oil is only a few degrees warmer (like -10° C instead of -15° C), but I can't see how it would drastically help for reaching optimal engine temp unless the oil gets heated above 0° C entirely.

Thoughts ?
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Old 12-17-2016, 08:42 AM   #2
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Toyota makes a very effective block heater for the Yaris/ECHO engine. You can search this forum for DIY installation or have the dealer install one.

No one makes a drain plug heater. The Toyota block heater is your best option.
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Old 12-17-2016, 09:24 AM   #3
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Blocking off the opening in the lower part of the bumper drastically speeds warm up times. I do this every year. It also has the added benefit of protecting the A/C condenser from road salt and debris.
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Old 12-17-2016, 01:02 PM   #4
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Quote:
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Blocking off the opening in the lower part of the bumper drastically speeds warm up times. I do this every year. It also has the added benefit of protecting the A/C condenser from road salt and debris.
I'm intrigued but don't know what you mean.

Got a pic?
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Old 12-17-2016, 01:55 PM   #5
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The opening in the bumper in front of the rad.
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Old 12-17-2016, 04:24 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bluevitz-rs View Post
The opening in the bumper in front of the rad.


This opening :



Somehow hit a huge chunk of ice while in traffic... Never saw it coming, heard a huge crush and bang and even got a spade of snow on my windshield from the impact. Including the stance of my car, the block was a foot tall :/


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Old 12-17-2016, 04:51 PM   #7
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^^ ouch.

But yeah. Cover that area and the car warms up much faster.
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Old 12-18-2016, 06:49 AM   #8
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You mean the hole in the bodywork ABOVE the bumper!

Theres no hole in the bumper of my car.

Here I thought you were on to something....
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Old 12-19-2016, 11:54 PM   #9
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I am interested how you cover that area up .. as us Canadians really need it.
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Old 12-20-2016, 12:56 PM   #10
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Even this isn't blocked off enough. Coolant temp is still around 170°F and intake air temp from the intercooler is only 1 or 2 degrees above ambient. I'm going to completely block it off with a new price of corigated plastic. Aka old election signs.
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Old 12-20-2016, 01:07 PM   #11
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Even this isn't blocked off enough. Coolant temp is still around 170°F and intake air temp from the intercooler is only 1 or 2 degrees above ambient. I'm going to completely block it off with a new price of corigated plastic. Aka old election signs.
Around here you can use realtors signage they leave on your lawn....the gras strip between the sidewalk and the road.
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Old 12-20-2016, 01:31 PM   #12
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I wonder if there is something in the aftermarket world for just this.

I will have to look as well, it would be a benefit and I doubt just leaving it on would harm anything.
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Old 12-20-2016, 06:01 PM   #13
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Saab roller blind radiator

The Saab 93 (750 cc two-cycle, which had a performance "Monte Carlo" version) had a rope or chain the driver could manipulate to control a roller blind for blocking flow through the radiator. (Good body candidate for a repop...little rear window no problem now w/ backup cameras.)

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Old 01-24-2017, 04:56 AM   #14
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Hello

Grill shutters are finding their way into new cars for aero- fuel-economy and faster warm ups .

Google automotive grill shuters there are some from aftermarket.

I guess 0w-20 is a necessity at -30C

This winter has been pretty cold for Greek standards and I have been using 0w-30 PFE acea c2 for my 1nz with great results.
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Old 02-09-2017, 09:56 PM   #15
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I get the impression that the OP has never heard of a block heater and is from Canada. As I Canadian I didn't think that was possible, but I guess it's more of a western or northern thing. Either way the original Toyota block heater just slides into the side of 1NZ block and is held in by a clip. I installed one on my Yaris this year which was originally from southern Ontario and didn't have one. It's a fair bit of work as you need to remove the battery, battery tray, air filer housing, etc. There is also the option of an aftermarket inline radiator hose heater which is much easier to install.

Toyota OE style:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Toyota-Block...-/181023599433

Universal Inline Radiator Hose style:
http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/ze...-0303277p.html
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Old 02-10-2017, 06:06 PM   #16
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My idea was in a situation where the car is outside (exposed to winds) and needed the most efficient heat distribution to the engine block. Since heat goes up and the oil is being moved all around the engine parts that moves, having warmer oil would help with cold start lubrication and also provide a better thermal path than a loose cartridge in a hole halfway up the engine block.

Agreed I'm rather new to the automotive engine bay intrinsics parts, but I've been doing mechanics, design and custom fabrications for years, so to me, the most efficient way to distribute a limited amount of heat with minimal work to implement was to use the convection and thermal paths factors.

Im still learning more in depth about all the details of a modern engine and the ideal working conditions of each parts and fluids.


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Old 02-10-2017, 07:55 PM   #17
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I have driven in -35 to -41c temps and plenty warm as is. Car starts fine since it's well maintained and no block heater.. Today it was between -15c to -25c. I don't understand why some have issues with their cars.
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Old 02-10-2017, 08:08 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by David C View Post
My idea was in a situation where the car is outside (exposed to winds) and needed the most efficient heat distribution to the engine block. Since heat goes up and the oil is being moved all around the engine parts that moves, having warmer oil would help with cold start lubrication and also provide a better thermal path than a loose cartridge in a hole halfway up


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It's true that the oil will be warmer upon startup but the block will be cold and the oil won't cycle through your engine as you stated until you start your car.

With a block heater the coolant gets cycled through the block via a thermo siphon therefore keeping the block warm even when your car is off. The fact that your car is outside means it is exposed to colder temps but the wind and wind chill is irrelevant to an inanimate object like a car.

The oil will still be cold but that why you run a 0w20 or 0w30 oil with a block heater for the perfect pairing. The block stays warmer due to the block heater and the oil will still flow fine even in the small ports and galleys on startup in crazy cold temps.

My issue with oil pan heaters is that there is no way to control how hot the oil gets and you cannot have a thermo siphon effect through out the engine from the oil pan. This theoretically could lead to burning the oil that sits closest to the heater. Not likely maybe, but still a concern.

The heaters that sit in line with the rad hose is an easier install and some even have motors that cycle the coolant even more effectively.
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