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Old 04-04-2018, 12:42 PM   #19
David C
 
Drives: White '07 3dr LB
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Montreal
Posts: 475
Footage from my dash cam and screenshots

https://youtu.be/p6eRL2IhmUA
https://youtu.be/w6tk7qCxgOs
Attached Images
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File Type: png 31_mars_fog_YW.png (153.3 KB, 48 views)
File Type: png 31_mars_low_YW.png (404.5 KB, 48 views)
File Type: png 31_mars_high_YW.png (456.3 KB, 48 views)
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Old 04-04-2018, 04:22 PM   #20
eTiMaGo
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Nice, I am slowly starting to upgrade our DD to LED lighting as well... Though we live in a well-lit area, sometimes on highway trips at night, it's hard to see what's ahead. Plus I want nice crisp white light :) Started with Philips Vision LEDs in the parking lights, still looking into some good locally available High/Low beam lights (Our Yaris uses 9012 lights, not too common). But now that I see what kind of results you can achieve, might need to hurry this a bit :D
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Old 04-04-2018, 05:28 PM   #21
David C
 
Drives: White '07 3dr LB
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Montreal
Posts: 475
So I recently noticed that my high beam indicator on the cluster wasn't lighting anymore. TBH I wasn't sure when was the last time I noticed it working either, but definitively was working before I disconnected the DRL relay (and doing the LED beams and parking light DRL). Today I decided to investigate the issue and after ruling out tautly components or installation, the removal of the DRL relay and other modifications, I had no choice but to dig deeper into the electrical drawing of the headlight and figure out the overly complicated design of Toyota. You'd think the indicator would just be a parallel light to the high beam, but nope. it's actually in series with the low beam and then the high beam. The cluster has a resistor of unknown value in series with the indicator LED and another diode, in series between the low beam floating ground and the high beam switched ground. So when you either flash or engage the high beams, you ground the low beams too, however the series configuration has the resistor in the cluster absorb all of the voltage that the indicator LED and diode don't need and leave little to nothing at the low beam. With halogen this worked flawlessly as the low beam was purely resistive and of mostly fixed value (55w at 13.6v, but of no power if using the proper resistor to lower the current to milliamps). However the LED bulbs despite having a constant current of 2.2A trough a wide voltage range thanks to the built-in driver, roughly having an impedance of twice as much as the halogen, being a diode at it's core, won't allow volts to flow trough if it's too low, just like any other semiconductors. That's why using the LED beams the cluster indicator wouldn't light up. Using the provided harness (simply two 6ohm resistor in parallel of the high and low beam) allows for enough power to effectively flow trough the low beam wiring power up the indicator.

So thanks to Toyota's super overly engineered design, I now have to run a purely resistive 32w wasteful load on my low beam in order to trigger the "power saving" led indicator in the cluster. What a waste Toyota, that's 32w of engine power that will never reach the tires, 32w of extra pollution in the air, 32w of extra fuel just so you could feel proud of your overly engineered dash.

I mean I can live without the stupid blue indicator on my dash, or I could over engineer a bypass for the over-engineered system to have the indicator working without wasting that much power.



Quote:
Originally Posted by eTiMaGo View Post
Nice, I am slowly starting to upgrade our DD to LED lighting as well... Though we live in a well-lit area, sometimes on highway trips at night, it's hard to see what's ahead. Plus I want nice crisp white light :) Started with Philips Vision LEDs in the parking lights, still looking into some good locally available High/Low beam lights (Our Yaris uses 9012 lights, not too common). But now that I see what kind of results you can achieve, might need to hurry this a bit :D
I too started with the Phillips Interior Vision LED 194 bulbs in the parking lights, and at the same time bought the backup and tail/stop lights LEDs from Phillips and Sylvania (depending on which was cheaper at the time of purchase). I also bought a pair of amber 194 from Sylvania to replace the front position lights but I couldn't access the bulb locations without removing the headlights so I returned them. Those and the turn signals are the only incandescent bulbs left on the outside of my car, and they actually never burnt. My goal going all LED was to primary reduce the electrical load from the taillight and marker lights so I could leave them on without the engine on for a while, as well as allowing for extra load of more powerful aftermarket LED lights I added. That was a few months ago, before I even considered going LED on the beams. Kinda wish I had kept the amber LED so I would have actually installed them when I removed the headlight for the beams, but I'll leave them alone till they go out. I first started a year ago with the cheap dime a dozen LED but they kept falling out of the socket, flickering within days, etc. I had like two of them fall out of the parking light sockets and disappear under the housing till I shook them out a year later doing the LED beams. The Phillips and Sylvania aren't cheap at $25 a pair, but they do fit the socket snug and don't flicker, they use insignificant power and actually have a nice white colour and brightness. I actually now use my front white parking lights as my DRL, tapped on the IG circuit from the alternator harness, so they are on whenever the key is on RUN, with or without the engine running. They fill up the reflector quite nicely that you can't tell the low beams are off (till I turn on the low beam hehe). Hopefully the Chinese will soon figure out that there's more money to make manufacturing decent small LED bulbs that last and perform like the overpriced Phillips and Sylvania and sell as many without having to deal with constant warranty claims or exchanges. They already took position on the high power bulbs as we see it, it's only a matter of time before quality Chinese T10 and other small bulbs start flooding our market.

I've always appreciate how the DRL of our car allowed me to choose how much power I wanted to shine on the road so I could dim the lights when not needed or following another car. Going with LED that wasn't possible anymore so that's why I chose to disconnect the DRL relay and use the parking lights as DRL, wire the fog on their own switch and have small LED pods in the front on the tail light circuit to add just enough surround light to drive most of the time on the taillight and not the low beams (which are now rather powerful), then turn on the fog when I need a little extra light or visibility and keep the low beams for when I really need them. That way I can keep the light pollution to a minimum and hopefully other drivers will notice and slowly start to trigger awareness to the excessive amount of light that can't be modulated on today's cars. Even more since the laws around here are very lacking on how and how much light you are allowed to emit on public roads. Everyone aggress that excessive lighting is a major problem on our roads, yet no one is acting forward with solutions to effectively allow the drivers to modulate the light output of their vehicle or enforce headlight aiming like they enforce seat belts or window tint.
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Old 04-27-2018, 04:41 PM   #22
pb2k
 
Drives: 07 Yaris HB
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Hey @ David C, how hard was it to convert the parking lights to DRL? I'm in the same situation where I installed new LEDs and pulled my DRL relay. Any pictures or links to good information would be appreciated.

Right now I have some Sylvania 0.7W 2825 LED's but I think I'll need to move those to the side markers and get some T10s closer to 3W for them to be bright enough to not draw any unnecessary attention from the constabulary. What are you using?

Last edited by pb2k; 04-27-2018 at 04:59 PM.
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Old 04-27-2018, 10:13 PM   #23
David C
 
Drives: White '07 3dr LB
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pb2k View Post
Hey @ David C, how hard was it to convert the parking lights to DRL? I'm in the same situation where I installed new LEDs and pulled my DRL relay. Any pictures or links to good information would be appreciated.

Right now I have some Sylvania 0.7W 2825 LED's but I think I'll need to move those to the side markers and get some T10s closer to 3W for them to be bright enough to not draw any unnecessary attention from the constabulary. What are you using?


I'm using the Phillips interior Vision 194 bulbs in the parking lights, I tap a 12v ignition powered from pin 3 of the alternator connector, since the led draws so little, the 10A GAUGE circuit that this wire is being fed from won't mind. Then I used a nearby bolt to ground to frame. If I remember, pin 3 is the green wire (at least on my own car).

I did grab a pair of parking light connectors from the scrap yard so I wouldn't have to hack into the car factory harness.
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Old 04-29-2018, 06:26 PM   #24
pb2k
 
Drives: 07 Yaris HB
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: Calgary
Posts: 16
My Experience for anyone else looking to make this mod:

After pouring over the diagrams for several hours, and tearing half my dash apart, I found that the wires for the parking lamps and side marker lamps show up in a connector in the engine fuse box (along with the turn signals). If you want to isolate just the parking lamps it would have to be done here, but I was OK with running the marker lights too.

The parking lights and side markers are then tied together and then pop out at the main fuse block under the steering wheel on connector 4B pin 33 (pink wire fourth from bottom right). I grabbed power from the 10A GUAGE circuit on 4B pin 19 (green wire top right) by splicing in with an insulation displacement ("easy splice") connector.

I chose to cut the pink wire to prevent backfeeding voltage to the tail lights, but by doing this I lose the ability to use my front parking lights unless the ignition is in the run position. A multi-way switch could probably be added to fix this issue.


It should be possible to splice the cut pink wire directly to the green wire, however I spliced in a fuse holder with a 5A fuse(just the size I happened to have), just as a final safety measure.

Notes:
07' Hatchback 2 door CE.
0.7W LEDs in side markers (warning, larger COB LEDs won't fit)
~0.8W LEDs in parking lights (I'm looking for some slightly brighter ones)

Warnings:
The wires in the under dash fuse panel are barely accessible, you'll need small-ish hands to even get in there and if you break a wire or screw anything else up, it will be nearly impossible to fix without major dash disassembly.
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