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Old 06-29-2006, 03:18 PM   #37
fnkngrv
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good show man....good show
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Old 06-29-2006, 05:02 PM   #38
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I don't watch the power block that much anymore cause the cast has changed so much its just not the same.

Though I do like to watch Jessi Combs on extreme 4x4, she's a hottie.
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Old 06-29-2006, 07:21 PM   #39
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Yeah, whats up with trucks and the new roid monkey?

Jessi's fine... Courtney even better....

I like to watch horsepower and musclecar - like I said, love the muscle cars
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Old 06-29-2006, 07:58 PM   #40
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nothin hotter than a chick who can fab your whole frame from scratch.:D
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Old 07-04-2006, 06:38 AM   #41
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First of all, the cross drilled holes in brake rotors aren't FOR reduced weight (though it's a nice byproduct, though more surface area contact from non-drilled/slotted rotors has certain advantages ,too) it is to allow gasses from the brake pad to vent AND less importantly to allow air to pass over the rotor more effectively instead of displacing the air around the complete rotor hat...this aids in cooling JUST a bit.

NEXT, i don't recommend running aftermarket performance parts on the yaris unless you're willing to lose fuel efficiency..unless i'm missing something about electronic throttle-by-wire somehow being different than regular fuel injected motors. The claim of an intake and exhaust helping gas mileage is absurd..if your engine can flow more air then your computer will inject more fuel in return. Plus, these cars are tuned throughout the torque band for a certain amont of back pressure, if you reduce this for a better "top end" then you will hurt your normal daily driving zone..anything under ~5000 rpms..

To answer your question, the only real POWER ADDITIVE mod i would consider doing is a shot of Nitrous Oxide...a good wet system would work GREAT off the computer controlled (and sensored) throttlebody..wouldn't even need a mechanical "Wide open Throttle" activator....
Nitrous can be turned on when you want, can be tuned or jetted for different shots..and has very few downsides if installed by someone with skillz.


Non-HP increasing mods would be:
1)Reduction of Parasitic power Loss (lighter flywheel, lighter wheels/tire combo, underdrive pulleys, Yaris already has electric radiator fan and power steering pump which really helps the 106 hp reach a bit closer to the ground )
2)Suspension and brakes (performance pads & larger diameter, cross drilled rotor setup like AEM big rotor kits)
3)reduction of weight (strip your interior, carbon fiber body parts, lexan windows)
4)aerodynamics (not really helpful until 80 mph++)

Doesn't increase power but:
1)Transmission - installing LImited Slip differential WOULD REALLY HELP PERFORMANCE!!! so would shorter gearing..which with the MULTITUDE of 1nZ engined cars out there..one has probably got a SPORTIER transmission setup that would help acceleration and keeping in the "power band"
2)High Pressure Radiator Cap, cooler thermostat, Oil Cooler, Radiator shrouds to direct airflow...many MANY things to FURTHER ensure your car will LIVE LONG even if you press it hard!!! these should be the first mods you do to the car if you're planning on adding power.

sorry if these lists are incomplete/disorganized.. i need sleep.
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Old 07-04-2006, 06:55 AM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TRD_Yaris
First of all, the cross drilled holes in brake rotors aren't FOR reduced weight (though it's a nice byproduct, though more surface area contact from non-drilled/slotted rotors has certain advantages ,too) it is to allow gasses from the brake pad to vent AND less importantly to allow air to pass over the rotor more effectively instead of displacing the air around the complete rotor hat...this aids in cooling JUST a bit.

NEXT, i don't recommend running aftermarket performance parts on the yaris unless you're willing to lose fuel efficiency..unless i'm missing something about electronic throttle-by-wire somehow being different than regular fuel injected motors. The claim of an intake and exhaust helping gas mileage is absurd..if your engine can flow more air then your computer will inject more fuel in return. Plus, these cars are tuned throughout the torque band for a certain amont of back pressure, if you reduce this for a better "top end" then you will hurt your normal daily driving zone..anything under ~5000 rpms..

To answer your question, the only real POWER ADDITIVE mod i would consider doing is a shot of Nitrous Oxide...a good wet system would work GREAT off the computer controlled (and sensored) throttlebody..wouldn't even need a mechanical "Wide open Throttle" activator....
Nitrous can be turned on when you want, can be tuned or jetted for different shots..and has very few downsides if installed by someone with skillz.


Non-HP increasing mods would be:
1)Reduction of Parasitic power Loss (lighter flywheel, lighter wheels/tire combo, underdrive pulleys, Yaris already has electric radiator fan and power steering pump which really helps the 106 hp reach a bit closer to the ground )
2)Suspension and brakes (performance pads & larger diameter, cross drilled rotor setup like AEM big rotor kits)
3)reduction of weight (strip your interior, carbon fiber body parts, lexan windows)
4)aerodynamics (not really helpful until 80 mph++)

Doesn't increase power but:
1)Transmission - installing LImited Slip differential WOULD REALLY HELP PERFORMANCE!!! so would shorter gearing..which with the MULTITUDE of 1nZ engined cars out there..one has probably got a SPORTIER transmission setup that would help acceleration and keeping in the "power band"
2)High Pressure Radiator Cap, cooler thermostat, Oil Cooler, Radiator shrouds to direct airflow...many MANY things to FURTHER ensure your car will LIVE LONG even if you press it hard!!! these should be the first mods you do to the car if you're planning on adding power.

sorry if these lists are incomplete/disorganized.. i need sleep.



Quote:
Originally Posted by bullitt3570
Hey....To all of those involved in this ongoing debate....I'll say a few things and ask a couple of others...Because I certainly don't have all the answers. First of all, any car with modern technology and manufacturing standards( especially from Toyota) Should be able to handle a modest boost. Do all the comments by supposed experts about the Yaris "internals" not remember the most tuned car in America is a lowly previous generation civic. Jackson Racing bolt on supercharger anyone? Now is there a loss of duribility/reliability from this? Invariably, but Toyota reputation for bullet proof drivetrains seems to exceed that of the more advanced (i.e. Vtech), yet slightly more delicate powerplants from Honda. Anyway...internals aside...How about a low boost supercharger, intake, exhaust, coilovers, and remaping the ecu when all is said and done. Risk yes...Reward definately. Anyone who says go by a new GTI with 200 hp is missing the point. There is conservatively 5 grand in this approach, but as I have learned from other such projects,,,None of which have blown up,,,,You can do it in steps and thats half the fun.
yes, there is a MAJOR LOSS in durability/longevity in ANY honda setup w/ boost the rods in a d16z are pretty brittle, and only about 250 whp can be safely boosted off of an Integra LS block (b18a,b18b,b18b1)..300 if you like hand grenading trannies
Plus, weight of internals was a big deal in the 1NZ-FE motor..this was not such a major deal on the Integra engines in which ROD limitations are easily over-run. I think you will have to consider the metal, manufacturing process (cast,vacuum cast,forged,etc), and coating AS WELL as the design of the rod itself (H-beam, I-beam, etc.etc.etc.).
I wouldn't be so sure about getting more than 180hp TO THE wheels before EITHER breaking a rod OR detonating due to the higher-than-ideal compression/design of the pistons..
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Old 07-04-2006, 01:30 PM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TRD_Yaris
First of all, the cross drilled holes in brake rotors aren't FOR reduced weight (though it's a nice byproduct, though more surface area contact from non-drilled/slotted rotors has certain advantages ,too) it is to allow gasses from the brake pad to vent AND less importantly to allow air to pass over the rotor more effectively instead of displacing the air around the complete rotor hat...this aids in cooling JUST a bit.

NEXT, i don't recommend running aftermarket performance parts on the yaris unless you're willing to lose fuel efficiency..unless i'm missing something about electronic throttle-by-wire somehow being different than regular fuel injected motors. The claim of an intake and exhaust helping gas mileage is absurd..if your engine can flow more air then your computer will inject more fuel in return. Plus, these cars are tuned throughout the torque band for a certain amont of back pressure, if you reduce this for a better "top end" then you will hurt your normal daily driving zone..anything under ~5000 rpms..

To answer your question, the only real POWER ADDITIVE mod i would consider doing is a shot of Nitrous Oxide...a good wet system would work GREAT off the computer controlled (and sensored) throttlebody..wouldn't even need a mechanical "Wide open Throttle" activator....
Nitrous can be turned on when you want, can be tuned or jetted for different shots..and has very few downsides if installed by someone with skillz.


Non-HP increasing mods would be:
1)Reduction of Parasitic power Loss (lighter flywheel, lighter wheels/tire combo, underdrive pulleys, Yaris already has electric radiator fan and power steering pump which really helps the 106 hp reach a bit closer to the ground )
2)Suspension and brakes (performance pads & larger diameter, cross drilled rotor setup like AEM big rotor kits)
3)reduction of weight (strip your interior, carbon fiber body parts, lexan windows)
4)aerodynamics (not really helpful until 80 mph++)

Doesn't increase power but:
1)Transmission - installing LImited Slip differential WOULD REALLY HELP PERFORMANCE!!! so would shorter gearing..which with the MULTITUDE of 1nZ engined cars out there..one has probably got a SPORTIER transmission setup that would help acceleration and keeping in the "power band"
2)High Pressure Radiator Cap, cooler thermostat, Oil Cooler, Radiator shrouds to direct airflow...many MANY things to FURTHER ensure your car will LIVE LONG even if you press it hard!!! these should be the first mods you do to the car if you're planning on adding power.

sorry if these lists are incomplete/disorganized.. i need sleep.
The only thing I have to say about cross drilled rotors is buy quality - I have had terrible rotors and great rotors. Larger cars will benefit more from crossed drilled than smaller, they extended the life of my pads and rotors three fold.

There is a benefit to exhaust and intake 'improvements' - this may be hard to quantify with cheap aftermarket parts but with flow improvements, read 'less turbulence', there will be a definite benefit. Im not talking buying a three inch exhaust and a race header to develop 'more' flow. Obviously this will burn more fuel.

Obviously these engines are tuned to backpressure but usually any engine can benefit from a reduction in back pressure in the exhaust system - this isnt a two stroke.

You recommend a nitrous system instead of a boosted system - personally I find nitrous a huge waste of time unless you drag race. If thats the case more often than not youll have someone with more money than brains running a 150 shot and melt themselves down.
Its assinign to assume the stock engine will not accept boost without seriously detrimental effects and long term longevity. Again, this is a function of stupidity not internals. These engines are built to extreme tolerances to the point of being almost termed balanced and blueprinted. In moderation any engine can accept boost, there wouldnt be kits to add turbos and superchargers if this wasnt the case. Any 'idiot' willing to push 15psi into a stock engine deserves an engine rebuid. There are alot more facts involved in these small displacement engines than simply bolting on a turbo. Im sure its possible to adjust the valve timing to reduce compression, engine timing, etc etc. Simply saying it cant / or shouldnt be done is ridiculous, personal opinion and accepting the possibilities something may go wrong are more appropriate.

As far as the other non HP upgrades they are all great ideas.

If you run the gammut with mods from boost to weight savings youll have yourself a very sporty 60 grand Yaris.

ANY performance upgrade short of lightening will undoubtedly increase fuel consumption - If you arent willing to accept this then why mod to begin with?
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Old 07-04-2006, 02:09 PM   #44
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"...buy cross-drilled for looks, slotted to wear your pads out faster, and normal to race with..."

-Rhys Millen at question and answer forum at D1GP, Fontana.


and mods that decrease rotating weight to gain performance decrease the amount of work the engine is doing, there by increasing gas milage... things like lightweight wheels, knife-edged cranks, lightweight flywheels (if they don't mess with the idle too much).
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Old 07-04-2006, 02:43 PM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by heylookitsjames
"...buy cross-drilled for looks, slotted to wear your pads out faster, and normal to race with..."

-Rhys Millen at question and answer forum at D1GP, Fontana.


and mods that decrease rotating weight to gain performance decrease the amount of work the engine is doing, there by increasing gas milage... things like lightweight wheels, knife-edged cranks, lightweight flywheels (if they don't mess with the idle too much).

The rotors I used went on my 99 malibu - the car is fairly large with severly under designed brakes in the front. I dont use the brakes that much, rely on gearing or coasting instead and that car went through a set of pads every three months. Bought the rotors and matching pads and didnt change them again.

I know lightening components makes a huge difference on big engines. Worked on tons of chev v8's that prove that point 100%. Can there be a drastic difference on these engines? How much can these parts weigh in or affect such a small engine, low gross weight vehicle?
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Old 07-04-2006, 03:23 PM   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikeukrainetz
I know lightening components makes a huge difference on big engines. Worked on tons of chev v8's that prove that point 100%. Can there be a drastic difference on these engines? How much can these parts weigh in or affect such a small engine, low gross weight vehicle?
I would assume that if you were to replace the flywheel and get some really lightweight wheels like regamaster or magnesium watanabes, you would feel a much more drastic difference than if you put the TRD muffler and cold air intake on. The car wouldn't be loud, and to some I'm sure that would be a drawback since it doesn't "sound fast", but it would be much more pleasurable to drive and probably dyno better.
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Old 07-04-2006, 03:42 PM   #47
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I suppose thats true.

I look at it three ways

1)replace stock parts with lightweight units and gain acceleration and overall performance.

2)replace parts with HP producing parts to offset stock weight or aftermarket parts (eg. stock steel wheels / aftermarket larger dia wheels)

3)replace both stock parts with lighter parts and add aftermarket HP producing parts.

I still think that unless your losing 10lbs a corner, 40-50lbs interior etc etc you wont gain much.
They say a hundred pound drop is worth a tenth in the quarter - hard to imagine where you could shave a hundred or more pounds in the yaris.

Plus I still need my backseat so a flywheel which gains me 10lbs over stock and maybe a 200rpm the only difference Ill see is the 300 less in my bank account.
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Old 07-04-2006, 03:44 PM   #48
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for invaluable engine information visit

http://www.hotrodders.com

most pertains to domestics but any questions can be asked or answered.
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Old 07-04-2006, 03:50 PM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikeukrainetz
I suppose thats true.

I look at it three ways

1)replace stock parts with lightweight units and gain acceleration and overall performance.

2)replace parts with HP producing parts to offset stock weight or aftermarket parts (eg. stock steel wheels / aftermarket larger dia wheels)

3)replace both stock parts with lighter parts and add aftermarket HP producing parts.

I still think that unless your losing 10lbs a corner, 40-50lbs interior etc etc you wont gain much.
They say a hundred pound drop is worth a tenth in the quarter - hard to imagine where you could shave a hundred or more pounds in the yaris.

Plus I still need my backseat so a flywheel which gains me 10lbs over stock and maybe a 200rpm the only difference Ill see is the 300 less in my bank account.
I'm not talking about the overall loss of weight of the car affecting performance... who cares about that, carbon hoods are for ricers...
I'm talking about the loss of ratational weight through the drive system. This is 100 fold more important than gutting your interior. You will feel the difference between a 17 lb wheel and a 7lb wheel, and you will feel the difference between a 15lb flywheel and 7lb flywheel. This is weight that the engine no longer has to fight to turn over.
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Old 07-06-2006, 04:42 PM   #50
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James is right, it'll rev way quicker, meaning you go faster.

But James, I've never heard a 4cyl sound fast, unless it had boost and I could hear a whistle. But maybe thats just me...
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Old 07-06-2006, 07:04 PM   #51
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Maybe im just completely missing the boat on this but we are talking about a Yaris right? The 106 hp econobox? I would spend money on all those lightweight parts, flywheel etc if maybe this was a s2000 or rx7 with three times the HP. Those of you who actually race might notice a diff. like I said, I have only noticed a difference in larger displacement engines because thats all Ive built.
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Old 07-06-2006, 07:38 PM   #52
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If you want to pick up some extra performance cheap, stick to the basics. Let it breathe, free flowing intake and exhaust. Lower gearing, the cheapest way is with smaller diameter wheel/tire combo, if you are planning on replacing your stock wheels. Lighter flywheel if you can do it cheap.
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Old 07-07-2006, 01:03 AM   #53
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Check out Turbo magazines current issue..the Blitz Vitz with Blitz Compressor System (Supercharger), Blitz Nur-Spec C-Ti Exhaust, and Blitz Radiator Cap (REMEMBER WHAT I SAID EARLIER IN THIS POST..first Thing to do if you're gonna make power is the RADIATOR CAP!!!)
JUST THESE MODS take the DYNOED horsepower/torque from 106.9 hp/102.0 lb/ft TO 148.0 hp (@ 6100 rpm) and 149.0 lb/ft torque (@3400!!!!)

3400 RPM = FULL TORQUE of 149 lb/ft!!!!!!!!!!

BEST OF ALL, the "CLUTCH SYSTEM" of the supercharger allows you to set it between "HIGH, MEDIUM, LOW, or NO BOOST!!!!! a SUPERCHARGER you can turn off!!!!

I'm in "Communicado" with the guys at Blitz that did this Vitz and hopefully mine will be the first USDM Supercharged Yaris...and then i can return to the tracks and compare times


To answer the debate on "good intake and exhaust will only increase power, not sacrafice low end for top end": I agree. A really good tested, mandrel bent exhaust could alleviate any "loss" in low/mid end that is a GIVEN on most system, BUT THESE ARE FEW AND FAR BETWEEN..maybe non existent for many cars out there. Especially when you're doing other mods that weren't taken into account when "X company" designed your exhaust system (i.e. Ram intake vs. Cold Air intake, Headers vs. stock exhaust manifold, cooler plugs, many things that aren't "mentioned" by the original testers)

but i still hold that any engine modifications on finely tuned (for gas mileage and performance) computer controlled engines will hurt your gas mileage.
If you can turn off the Blitz supercharger like they state, i'm all on it...though i'm still watching their project close..i'm figuring the VERY small fuel injectors will quickly hit 100% duty cycle before the rods get close to snapping.
Maybe an on/off wet shot of NOS with an on/off supercharger would be the best setup. I'd get an exhaust setup for that and "sacrafice" a few mpg..it'd be worth it








oh, and you could have your exhaust manifold "ceramic coated" which causes it to retain heat inside the piping more. This decreases underhood temperatures and ALSO keeps exhaust gases hotter,which keeps it moving faster and evacuating the exhaust ports quicker (translation: 4 cylinder torque)
JetHot.com does this coating REGULARLY for perforamance cars, i've had a few Turbo manifolds done and it is very helpful. Or you can do it yourself by buying the correct paint and spraying it with a really cheap airbrush ($10 or less from walmart).

later.
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Old 07-07-2006, 01:24 AM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikeukrainetz
Maybe im just completely missing the boat on this but we are talking about a Yaris right? The 106 hp econobox? I would spend money on all those lightweight parts, flywheel etc if maybe this was a s2000 or rx7 with three times the HP. Those of you who actually race might notice a diff. like I said, I have only noticed a difference in larger displacement engines because thats all Ive built.
Actually, the smaller and lighter the motor, the bigger the benefits you will get from lightening up the driveline. True, it is exceptionally important on the cars you listed because of their extremely high RPM nature, but small motors reap a huge benefit as well.

I'm not discounting the benefits of increasing the flow of the motor either, as this will most definitely help with power. But I agree with TRD_Yaris in that it WILL affect gas milage.
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