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Old 05-05-2019, 11:26 AM   #163
06YarisRS
 
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Bumper Cover Test Fit

Very happy that the cover fits on perfectly and all clearances are maintained. The intercooler is not completely centered, but that's just the way it has to be due to the passenger side piping/frame considerations.

The nice part of all this is that every cooler has great airflow over it.

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Old 05-05-2019, 01:53 PM   #164
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Plumbing the Trans Cooler

Of course the transmission fittings were not pointing in optimal directions to plumb the cooler circuit. This necessitated some looping, so I'm glad I bought a bit of extra hose. I have very smooth curves in the hose, so no threat of kinking, plus this tubing can almost be folded over on itself and still flow.

Loose fitting the hoses and deciding on clamping points. There is a natural pathway just below the rad fan and lots of holes to place P-clips. I can easily do this with no contact with the car chassis parts at all.

Running cooler return line




I haven't decided whether I should put the trans fan thermostat in the line exiting the transmission or returning to the transmission. I'm leaning toward putting it in the line out of the trans as that fluid will be hotter and therefore turn the fan on sooner.

I've also calculated that the addition of the cooler and around 8' of hose will result in ~ a 0.3L increase in ATF capacity.

A couple pics from below. No clamps yet, they'll be installed last.





And, one from above

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Old 05-06-2019, 10:10 PM   #165
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Transmission Cooler Fan Mounted

This was a nice job with the only tricky bit being the working of the mounting straps carefully through the cooler from the back. It took some contortionist maneuvers. The fan is very secure and sits nicely in about the middle of the cooler. Just have to run a fused supply 12 or 14 gauge wire through conduit to my inline thermostat, then on to the fan.





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Old 05-06-2019, 10:20 PM   #166
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Oil Catch Can

I picked up a Chinese knock-off of the Mishimoto 2 port can from eBay. No doubt that the materials and craftsmanship are subpar when compared to the Mishimoto, but, dang, it looks identical in every way, inside and out.

I wasn't going to do a catch can but after more reading and removing the PCV tube at the intake, I saw the ugliness. Pic below. I don't need any of that crap entering the intake for many reasons, none the least being the adverse effect it would have on my octane rating and increased threat of detonation. I'll proceed as planned with the valve cover breather and install the 2-port between the PCV valve and intake.

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Old 05-09-2019, 10:20 PM   #167
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Passenger Side Piping

This 2" pipe did not enjoy being bead rolled. Although it's a bit rough, it will seal well and hold well with the clamp. I had to cut the piece from the kit into three separate pieces and discard one piece. I'll now have to order a 2" 45 degree coupler. Good new is that it will fit well and all the other piping is done. This is the last bit of piping for the project.

My trans cooler thermostat arrived today and I'm expecting my catch can to arrive tomorrow. Time permitting, this weekend, I'll have the trans cooler all done, the catch can mounted and plumbed. The helpful guys from turbokits.com sent me a piece of 3" intercooler piping as I was short to mount my air filter. Hopefully I'll get that mounted this weekend too. Then it's time to move on to the F/IC wiring. Still a ways to go, but getting there.

Passenger side plumbing. It's solid as a rock and due to the support clamp that bolts to the A/C compressor, I have a good amount of clearance between the turbo compressor coupling and the subframe.

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Old 05-11-2019, 12:38 AM   #168
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Oil Catch Can and Air Filter Mounting

Managed to eek out a couple hours in the garage tonight. I installed my oil catch can but have yet to tie it in to the PCV system. I need two couplers and a few more clamps. I'll tidy up the ugly ends of the hoses, which I scavanged from one of the numerous old engines in our shop.

I received my short section of 3" intercooler piping from the awesome dudes at turbokits.com so I got my air filter test mounted. Next, I'll make a support bracket to secure the air filter/pipe and strap down all the various hoses etc.







I also picked up my transmission fan thermostat today. Truthfully, I don't have a lot of faith that it will last very long, but you never know. It's rated for 15 amps and my fan apparently draws 6 - 8, so it shouldn't overstress it.

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Old 05-11-2019, 12:35 PM   #169
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Looks good so far. Definitely cut a vent in your front bumper for the air intake, it will make a difference when you're moving for intake temps
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Old 05-11-2019, 04:52 PM   #170
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Originally Posted by tmontague View Post
Looks good so far. Definitely cut a vent in your front bumper for the air intake, it will make a difference when you're moving for intake temps
Thanks! Although I would be reluctant to cut any holes in my bumper, there is a section of plastic about 3 inches wide on the right side of the radiator. After reading your suggestion, I am thinking about modifying this section to funnel air toward the filter, which is perfectly in line with it. I figured if I cut this off, I could use brackets to angle it to direct air from the upper bumper opening onto the filter. The area below the filter is wide open and quite airy toward the bottom of the engine bay, so I think the intake air shouldn't be too hot. That said, it is partially behind the rad. I have a fair bit of adjustment with the filter as it is, so I could actually point in down and closer to the bottom of the engine bay, but not too far as to pic up road debris or water from the wheels.
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Old 05-11-2019, 04:59 PM   #171
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A little plumbing this afternoon

So, the eBay seller said that the barb fittings for the inline transmission fan thermostat were 3/8". Well, they're 1/2". It was completely impossible to get the 3/8 hose onto the 1/2" barb despite lubing the fitting and hose, boiling the hose end in hot water etc. I bought a foot of 1/2" hose, two 1/2" x 3/8" reducing couplers and a few clamps. Done. I was initially worried about restriction when downsizing from 1/2" to 3/8", until I cut the PCV hose to run to the catch can and was surprised to see that it reduced down to 5/16" or even smaller. It's really a tiny hole, not much wider than a small drinking straw, running through that hose. If anything, the 3/8" piping and fittings I have in there now will provide better flow when in vacuum. I'm guessing they use such a thick wall to avoid the hose collapsing under vacuum. The hose I bought is good for 24" of vacuum and I will also have the valve cover breather that should help vent the block.

I also decided to swap out the plastic 1/2" outlet and inlet on the catch can for aluminum 3/8" barbs. This will make for a much cleaner looking and efficient install. The catch can came with a gate valve drain which is a nice touch. I'll run a foot or 18" of hose down toward the bottom of the engine bay for easy draining.

The coupling and 3/8" barbed fittings just in front of the catch can is the beginnings of my trans temp gauge inline fitting. I'll buy a gauge with a 1/8" npt sensor and drill and tap the brass coupling. I purposefully bought one with the thickest wall I could find for the best threading (tapping) result.

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Old 05-11-2019, 10:12 PM   #172
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Catch can done, finally!

This turned out to be more involved than I had expected. The pipe that goes from the PCV valve under the manifold - thanks Toyota - is basically a "U" shape that loops around back to the manifold. So, when you cut it to splice into it, it's very difficult to get the fittings on, expecially since the interior diameter of this piping is so narrow and you have so little length to work with. I simply could not get enough leverage to seat the fitting because the piping is tucked up under the throttlebody. So, that had to come off (I would have taken the manifold off, but I expect it would be a struggle given the close proximity to the rad in this smaller engine bay). It did give me a chance to inspect the throttlebody surfaces and gasket, which fortunately, though a little dirty, were in good shape. The other challenge is getting the piping in in a way that ensures that it won't chafe on other piping, clamps or on body and engine parts when the engine moves around. Anyway, it's done now.

Getting can ready for final install





Throttlebody removal





Finished, with zip ties to keep everything secure. They're white which I hate, but it's all I had on hand, so they'll be replaced with black ones. Also going to look for side by side double hose retainers, so I may get rid of the zip ties all together.

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Old 05-12-2019, 05:24 PM   #173
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Trans thermostat and plumbing done

The circuit is now complete. Looking forward to starting the car - will be a while yet though - and checking for leaks. I just have two mounting points using the rubberized "P" clips left for the hoses which requires pre-drilling and using self tapping screws - the metal is a touch too thick to self tap. There was one spot there the inlet and outlet hoses are touching, so I cut a short section of pipe, wrapped one of them and ziptied the rubber hose piece on. Everywhere else there is no contact and room for movement.

The sensor is installed on the outlet of the factory in-rad cooler running to the inlet of the aftermarket cooler. If anything, this should keep the fluid cooler than putting the sensor after the aftermarket cooler.





I'm going to wrap the sensor with some of the fiberglass reflective tape provided with the turbo kit. The sensor is about an inch away from the lower rad hose, which probably wouldn't be an issue, but I'll play it safe.

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Old 05-13-2019, 01:07 PM   #174
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Trans thermostat and plumbing done
The sensor is installed on the outlet of the factory in-rad cooler running to the inlet of the aftermarket cooler. If anything, this should keep the fluid cooler than putting the sensor after the aftermarket cooler.
Do you by any chance know what the factory optimal trans temp is? The reason I ask is because with the thermostat installed before the aftermarket cooler is potentially could be keeping the fan on constantly if your thermostat is a low temp set point than what the factory rad cooler typically keeps it at.

It might be a wash either way but I just figured less time the fan is running, less electrical load and stress to the fan.
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Old 05-13-2019, 04:01 PM   #175
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Not sure of the optimal spec but testing procedures are something like the 124 - 178 range. I thought about it a lot and Derale recommends putting the thermostat where I did - before the aftermarket cooler. If the fan runs too much, I'll swap it to the other line. Since the rad likely hovers around 180+, it may well make the fan run too much. I believe the thermostat kicks in at 180 and out at 165, but I'm not sure if the in-rad cooler would bring the fluid up to 180 or not. I guess only time will tell.

Not sure what you mean that it might be a wash. Do you mean that you think it might not be effective at all? The way I look at it, any additional cooling has got to help.

Thanks.
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Old 05-13-2019, 04:41 PM   #176
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Not sure of the optimal spec but testing procedures are something like the 124 - 178 range. I thought about it a lot and Derale recommends putting the thermostat where I did - before the aftermarket cooler. If the fan runs too much, I'll swap it to the other line. Since the rad likely hovers around 180+, it may well make the fan run too much. I believe the thermostat kicks in at 180 and out at 165, but I'm not sure if the in-rad cooler would bring the fluid up to 180 or not. I guess only time will tell.

Not sure what you mean that it might be a wash. Do you mean that you think it might not be effective at all? The way I look at it, any additional cooling has got to help.

Thanks.
I was referring to having the thermostat placed downstream vs upstream may be a wash. No doubt an additional cooler will help.

I'm just thinking that the outflow of trans fluid from the rad will almost never be below 165 (in the middle of summer) and the fan will be constantly running. But that is just my speculation based off of what coolant temps in the middle of summer.

That said, this is new territory for me so what others recommend who have been down that road would be best practice
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Old 05-14-2019, 12:35 AM   #177
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I was referring to having the thermostat placed downstream vs upstream may be a wash. No doubt an additional cooler will help.

I'm just thinking that the outflow of trans fluid from the rad will almost never be below 165 (in the middle of summer) and the fan will be constantly running. But that is just my speculation based off of what coolant temps in the middle of summer.

That said, this is new territory for me so what others recommend who have been down that road would be best practice
Indeed, it will be an experiment. Below is a pic of my Torque Pro in my van and trans temps are always below oil and coolant. This was after about 45 minutes driving and just before the pic, I had been driving around town. I also found this in a couple previous vehicles I owned in which I had installed trans temp gauges. I don't know if the Yaris is the same. I am hoping that the fluid in the Yaris doesn't run near or over 165 regularly with the additional cooler. If I do find that the fan is running too much, I will move it to the line after the aftermarket cooler. I'm likely going to install a temp gauge as well, so that will help to assess the situation. But, for sure, if the fan runs constantly, then that's no good.

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Old 05-14-2019, 10:40 AM   #178
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hmm, I guess the factory cooler does a better job than I assumed it would. It will be interesting to see what you notice once you have it all running in regards to temps
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Old 05-14-2019, 08:43 PM   #179
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hmm, I guess the factory cooler does a better job than I assumed it would. It will be interesting to see what you notice once you have it all running in regards to temps
Yes, it would seem it does a good job of cooling the fluid. It would be great if the fan wasn't needed at all, but I expect it will be, especially in bumper to bumper traffic in summer or when I load it beyond factory specs. I've seen my van's aft reach close to 200 creeping along the 401 in summertime. Driving around town with lots of stops and starts, in the heat of summer, will put it in the 170 - 180 range generally.
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Old 05-14-2019, 09:00 PM   #180
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Passenger side plumbing finally done

I had to order two different silicone couplers and modify the piece of piping that came with the kit. Although it looks tight, it's not touching anywhere. 90% of any flexing will be on the section of coupler that connects the portion of the charge pipe that's bolted to the engine and the intercooler coupler. There is also a coupler that joins the engine charge pipes that is quite flexible too despite being bolted to the A/C compressor. I rocked the engine back and forth (torque/rear engine mount is still not tightened down) and there is no movement or contact of couplers or piping on any chassis parts. Again, flexing is confined to the couplers that basically join the chassis and engine mounted charge piping parts.



My ATF cooler outlet hose is slightly touching the intercooler coupler, not even enough to deform the circumference of the hose. However, I have discovered that I can pick up a transmission return line from a 1992 - 1997 Jeep Wrangler or Grand Cherokee (or Dorman P/N# 624-384) that will work in this application. It's a very short, 3/8" elbow that should redirect the piping immediately after leaving the cooler so that it doesn't make contact with the intercooler coupler. A local scrapyard has a few of these vehicles and they told me I was welcome to go into the yard and help myself, if I can find one.



Final result. I did have to use one traditional hose clamp as opposed to a "T" clamp on the curved section of pipe. I did this because I needed a narrower clamp as I had to cut the pipe close to the curve. I did get a great bead roll on it and the clamp cranked down nicely on the right side of the bead roll. Would I want to put 35 psi through this piping? Probably not, but it will easily handle the 7 - 8 psi I'll be feeding it.



All of the piping is done with the exception of securing the 3" intake piping to the back of the valve cover. That will be done tomorrow hopefully. Then, the vacuum hosing and trans fan wiring will be completed. I'll be into the F/IC wiring by mid next week if things go as planned.
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