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Old 09-23-2010, 03:33 PM   #1
covert313
 
Drives: 2007 Yaris Hatchback
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Question Need Help! Alternator Upgrade? Secondary Battery?

I am looking for a power solution for my 07 Yaris LB.

I am running...

2 kicker cvx 12's Ported for SPL
3 kicker cvr 12's Sealed for SQL
2 pairs 5.25 Fli Integrator Components
2 Pairs 6.5 Fli Integrator Components
2 Pairs Fli Integrator Coaxials
2 audiopipe 1500watt monoblocks
2 audiopipe 1000watt 4ch class a/b
2 Tsunami 10 farad capacitors

So...

Even with my caps I am still dimming heavily. It's obvious that I am putting a lot of strain on my electrical System. I have looked for Alternator upgrades on the Internet. I have checked local shops to see if my oem alternator could be rebuilt. Unfortunately I have not yet found a solution.

My first question is, Does anyone know where I might find a suitable universal alternator and how difficult would something like that be to install?

Second, Will i get enough out of my alternator by adding a kinetik batery?

Third, Will a 1.5 L engine allow me to add a second alternator and how difficult would that be?

Any feedback will be greatly appreciated. Thanks...
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Old 09-23-2010, 04:05 PM   #2
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Just a question: Do you just let you engine idle or are you keeping it at 3000-4000rpm while coming to the conclusion that there isn't enough power.

Because even a stock low output 75A alternator is producing over 1000W at full output (at 100A its more that 1400W). So unless you're drawing a continuous output of more that that, an I mean considerably more, you shouldn't be having that much power loss with 20 farad of capacitance.
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Old 09-23-2010, 04:55 PM   #3
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Exclamation

You need to do the "BIG 3"
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Old 09-23-2010, 06:10 PM   #4
covert313
 
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If I am playing rock my dimming is less, but if I am playing anything that has long bass notes it's dimming horribly. Currently my alternator is at 80a so roughly 1100 watts of output? When the battery was checked at idle I dropped to under 10 volts. If my battery is dropping that much the aternator is not enough to keep the caps charged or even the starting battery itself.

Will doing the big three solve this?

Last edited by covert313; 09-23-2010 at 06:42 PM.
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Old 09-23-2010, 07:28 PM   #5
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VIDEO LINK




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Old 09-23-2010, 08:16 PM   #6
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Yes...the Big Three, then a drop in replacement 180 Ampere alty from someplace like PowerBastards.com should do.

At this point, with my three LRx amps, I'm still not going below 13 Volts even on extended dynamic listening. When I do I'll look into the alternator replacements.
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Old 09-23-2010, 09:52 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by covert313 View Post
If I am playing rock my dimming is less, but if I am playing anything that has long bass notes it's dimming horribly. Currently my alternator is at 80a so roughly 1100 watts of output? When the battery was checked at idle I dropped to under 10 volts. If my battery is dropping that much the aternator is not enough to keep the caps charged or even the starting battery itself.

Will doing the big three solve this?
You see, it won't matter what alternator you have in there, if you aren't spinning it fast enough, you aren't making any power. The alternator at idle is maybe making 2-5A of power, if that. You need to check while the engine is at 3000-4000 RPM, otherwise you'll never be generating enough power.

Your other option is to get an Overdrive pulley (smaller) on the alternator to make it spin faster at lower RPMs. This would bring it up to full power faster and would help a lot while just at idle.
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Old 09-24-2010, 02:37 AM   #8
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...that's why the alternators already come with an overdrive pulley...

There are several manufacturers that make a product for our vehicles.

It also sounds like the battery isn't being charged either. Your alty must be on it's death bed if it's not charging the battery. If the battery is below 12 Volts you're in trouble.

Out of curiosity, do you have some pics of your wiring and setup? I really want to see this multiple woofer type setup.
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Old 09-24-2010, 03:39 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by covert313 View Post
I am looking for a power solution for my 07 Yaris LB.

I am running...

2 kicker cvx 12's Ported for SPL
3 kicker cvr 12's Sealed for SQL
2 pairs 5.25 Fli Integrator Components
2 Pairs 6.5 Fli Integrator Components
2 Pairs Fli Integrator Coaxials
2 audiopipe 1500watt monoblocks
2 audiopipe 1000watt 4ch class a/b
2 Tsunami 10 farad capacitors
ARE YOU NUTZ ???

5,000 watts of system power ???

IN A YARIS ???

You needed to do a bigger alternator, bigger cables, and dual batteries BEFORE you ever thought about putting any of that stuff in the car!

FIVE 12's in a YARIS ?

Redonkulous.

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Old 09-24-2010, 10:15 AM   #10
covert313
 
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I have some older photos before I upgraded. Originally I was running 4 cvr's and smaller caps/amps/kicker components/etc... You will also see some photos of sound deadening which I highly recommend to everyone who hasn't done it yet.








I will try to get around to taking and posting some recent pics asap...

So powerbastards.com has a drop in alternator? I will give that a try. Thanks for the diy derickveliz2. I will be doing this within the next few days. One question though, shouldn't you have the alty to battery positive charge fused towards the battery?
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Old 09-24-2010, 10:27 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by covert313 View Post
Thanks for the diy derickveliz2. I will be doing this within the next few days. One question though, shouldn't you have the alty to battery positive charge fused towards the battery?
I made the same question, in this forum and at my local car-audio shop and the answer was "no, you don't need it" but that is for my smaller system. The car-audio guru guys here could answer this better than me.

Derick
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Old 09-24-2010, 06:39 PM   #12
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Power bastards:

I would recommend installing our Fitzall 220A+ as an auxiliary alternator on this vehicle. I show no information on the stock alternator for the Yaris, therefore I wouldn’t be able to answer any questions about the plug. If the Yaris alternator is tied to the computer in the car installing our Fitzall as a secondary unit will work the best.

Mike Savino
www.PowerBastards.com
High Amp Alternators Made in the USA!
Toll Free: (877) 261-2472
mike@PowerBastards.com



Mechman:

The year, make, model and engine will suffice when ordering

Matthew Logan Young
Sales Manager

7501 Strawberry Plains Pk
Knoxville, TN 37924
www.mechman.com
Toll free 1.888.MECHMAN
cell 775.742.5666


DC Power
https://www.dcpowerinc.com

Iraggi
Ohio Generator
...there's others...
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Old 09-24-2010, 07:28 PM   #13
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HOLY CRAP!!! Im surprised you Alt hasn't failed yet. Those APs pull a mega load. As it was stated, the big 3 will help tremendously, but an H/O alt is what you need. Remember the formula for power as it pertains to audio Amps*Volts= watts. So to safely push 5k watts of power and to completely cover your ass you would need about a 385 Amp alt at 13v or a 357 amp alt at 14v. Now obviously, thats over kill, I would say about a 300 Amp alt would cover you with the Big 3 done.

An Iraggi alt has been installed and is working on another members ride, TheArchitect.
http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=21928 He purchased a 300 alt for about $500.

The Iraggi is what I plan on getting.


Big Fat Disappointing Edit:
Apparently Dominick Iraggi is no longer in business. His E-bay seller page no longer exists. :( Thats a very sad face
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Last edited by Slick; 09-24-2010 at 08:04 PM.
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