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Old 08-07-2007, 07:37 AM   #19
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If you're using a dry shot on a returnless fuel system you have issues to begin with......Dry kits boost fuel pressure as fuel compensation. Our FPR is in the tank so you cant just jump the vacuum port on it and increase fuel pressure.

Besides a wet kit is a HELL of a lot safer.....
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Old 08-07-2007, 08:27 AM   #20
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I know on older (non DBW) auto cars with a physical 'kickdown' switch, you could splice in a toggle switch so that when you engaged it; it would hold each gear to redline regardless of throttle position as well as dropping back to the lowest usable gear for better acceleration. A close friend's father had it on a Porsche 928 and it made it drive much more like a manual in the way of engine braking by holding gears unlike a 'normal' shift pattern (as high a gear as possible as soon as possible).
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Old 08-07-2007, 08:54 AM   #21
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Old 08-07-2007, 11:18 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Motorhead6T5 View Post
Nitrous doesn't puddle fuel does,thats why a dry shot would be safer. Our intakes are meant to run air through them not fuel. The technology of foggers is getting better so you can get away with a wet shot,but a dry is still safer at low levels. You get more punch out of a wet shot though,where a dry comes on more gradual.
The jets atomize the fuel and nitrous so well that on a small shot there should be very little chance of puddling. The one advantage of our plastic intakes is that they will be very smooth inside which should help even more. Your also activating nitrous above 3krpm (or higher for the larger shots) so there is a lot of airflow to pull it into the cylinders. I can't think of any intakes (on modern vehicles) that were factory designed to have fuel running through them and there are a lot of cars running wet systems with no issues. Biggest problem is overzealous use of nitrous and/or improperly tuned engines. Not sure about the more punch from a wet shot vs dry...I've had both and they both hit the same way
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Old 08-07-2007, 01:13 PM   #23
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I felt the wet was definately stronger then the dry but the wet is definately a safer route.
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Old 08-07-2007, 11:23 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Turbo&Auto View Post
If you're using a dry shot on a returnless fuel system you have issues to begin with......Dry kits boost fuel pressure as fuel compensation. Our FPR is in the tank so you cant just jump the vacuum port on it and increase fuel pressure.

Besides a wet kit is a HELL of a lot safer.....
I was kinda generalising as I have no experience on a yaris using nitrous,you could be right. I know some people on the scion forums have run dry kits up to a 35 shot with no problems,they have returnless like us. To a point the maf will adjust,this is why on a dry kit you mount before the maf,and a wet tap after the maf. The oxygen sensors will adjust also,this is why a dry kit won't kit as hard,its the delay of the computer adding the extra fuel as oposed to just strait injecting it right with the nitrous on a wet kit. Some people will even tell you a dry kit is a waste of nitrous.

I will rephrase my previous statement,if the nitrous kit is tuned correctly(via a/f on a dyno or wideband) then dry is considered safer at low amounts of nitrous injection. It may not be safer however on this piticular car/engine.

Reasons a wet kit is not as safe,puddling of fuel via a leaky selonoid,and the intake manifold was not designed to flow fuel,which can lead to fuel starvation of certain cylinders when the nitrous is engaged.
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Old 08-08-2007, 07:33 AM   #25
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Have you ever seen a wet nozzle when its spraying? If it puddles, it would be amazing.....

Up to 35 shot?? isnt 35 the lowest??

I ran a 75 shot on my Matrix, wet kit and plastic IM. Ran fine. I didnt keep it on there long, went turbo quickly after but it ran just fine on the bottle.

I would NEVER trust the toyota ECU to compensate fuel for me either, you obviously havent tuned one of these cars or any other newer Toyo's. They are a REAL PITA.
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Old 08-08-2007, 07:18 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Turbo&Auto View Post
Have you ever seen a wet nozzle when its spraying? If it puddles, it would be amazing.....

Up to 35 shot?? isnt 35 the lowest??

I ran a 75 shot on my Matrix, wet kit and plastic IM. Ran fine. I didnt keep it on there long, went turbo quickly after but it ran just fine on the bottle.

I would NEVER trust the toyota ECU to compensate fuel for me either, you obviously havent tuned one of these cars or any other newer Toyo's. They are a REAL PITA.
Um,it can puddle if your selonoid seals go bad and it will dribble into the intake track,this can be an issue if you run it on the car for awile and it gets a lot or even little use. And I'm not saying it will always happen or even happen a lot,more of an issue with cheap selonoids.

They make smaller than 35hp jets,I've personaly used a 25 on a 1st gen GSX.
I didn't say you won't be fine with a wet shot. A dry shot is infact safer at lower levels if you want to believe it or not. Less to go wrong. You are right I have never tuned these new toyotas,their fuel system and PITA ecu is quite normal of all new cars.

If putting nitrous on a matrix makes an expert than I'm not expert,but I wonder if you have ever had a real performance car?
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Old 08-08-2007, 11:24 PM   #27
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LOL!!! I build them regularly, you really have no clue.......

How about a 10second street car that I helped my dad build?? Or my garage full of Turbo'd rides???? 98 Subaru RS with a WRX swap, turbo'd Matrix, Turbo Accord(motor swap, T3/T4, all custom fabbed by myself). Even my more recent beater projects like a 95 Neon ACR. Mopar performance everything with a 75 shot. That car made 200whp with VERY lil invested.....

What do you rock??
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Old 08-08-2007, 11:50 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by Turbo&Auto View Post
LOL!!! I build them regularly, you really have no clue.......

How about a 10second street car that I helped my dad build?? Or my garage full of Turbo'd rides???? 98 Subaru RS with a WRX swap, turbo'd Matrix, Turbo Accord(motor swap, T3/T4, all custom fabbed by myself). Even my more recent beater projects like a 95 Neon ACR. Mopar performance everything with a 75 shot. That car made 200whp with VERY lil invested.....

What do you rock??
Smells like performance to me...

But I'm sure someone will come up with a "blah blah blah" story about some type of V8 car, cause only that can mean real performance. I had a formula 350 with plenty of upgrades for years and it paled in the performance and fun category compared to my 81 rx7 with a carb'd turbo setup or my b16 eg6 civic hatch or my gst eclipse. what people consider "performance" is gonna be relative and jaded depending on what types of cars they grew up around...
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Old 08-09-2007, 12:21 AM   #29
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My dad's car is a Cuda that had a 440. Its now a Indy 500ci bored and stroked version of the 440, aluminum heads, custom fuel system by me, Gforce 6 speed, 9" rear, ladder bars, roll cage, 12" wide wheels in the rear with drag radials. Theres a LOT more but thats the basic idea...

The car ran a 11.8 with regular street tires. He was having clutch issues above 7500rpm at the track with the drag radials on the car. He also has a set of slicks, but just havent made it back to the track since. He likes to just cruise it around LOL! He WALKED a viper leaving it in 6th on the highway....its no joke!!

This is a short short clip of it before he put the Boyd wheels and drag radials on the car
http://www.nicksturbomatrix.com/vids/takeoff.htm

Edit: Heres a clip of my honda that I modified a DSM turbo setup to fit on, VERY budget build up. Now it has the motor swap and etc...Still wrapping it up though
http://www.nicksturbomatrix.com/holyshit.wmv

Ask around, I have no need to BS about crap. I was just debating what you were saying, dont take it personal :)

Might as well add my weak Matrix too ;)
http://www.nicksturbomatrix.com/vids/cornerblowby.htm

The Matrix was done before ANYONE offered anything FI for it, everything was one off.....

Bumper cam!!
http://www.nicksturbomatrix.com/vids/bumpercam.htm

Since I mentioned it, the Pee-on too:
http://www.nicksturbomatrix.com/350zdown.3gp
This race you can see we were dead heated, OFF the bottle. I hit the switch and bye-bye 350z :)

Last edited by Turbo&Auto; 08-09-2007 at 12:35 AM.
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Old 08-12-2007, 06:24 PM   #30
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Any piggy back from HKS, Greddy, Blitz, Jetchips and Venom can have two or more different mode.

Last edited by calmcool; 08-12-2007 at 06:53 PM.
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Old 08-12-2007, 07:54 PM   #31
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T&A, your Honda is f'n ridiculous.
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Old 08-13-2007, 07:37 AM   #32
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Thanks :)

Its going to be a LOT faster now. That setting in the video was about 200whp and 250wtq, 10psi. I didnt dyno at 15psi, my downpipe came loose on the dyno and it wouldnt boost past 10. I fixed it in the parking lot but they didnt have time to get me back on there. It was at a dyno meet ;) I went to another dyno when I got back home and they F'd my car all up. They set the roller weight to 3800lbs!!!! The car wouldnt rev past 5K, he said I just wasnt making any power. F'in retard!! Blew my clutch and smoked the rings in cyl #2. I drove the car home on 24psi and just beat the piss out of it. Leaked out 2qts of oil on my driveway when I pulled in LOL! When its going down I blow it up all to hell!!!
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Old 08-14-2007, 12:16 PM   #33
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I hit a nerv lol. I've rocked all kinds of shit. Right now a Blown chevelle.Good shit though.I will check out your rides later when I got time.
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Old 08-14-2007, 02:22 PM   #34
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Its all good man, I just wanted it known I'm no fucktard ricer LOL
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Old 08-14-2007, 05:54 PM   #35
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Anyone ever try Rocket Boosters?? Perhaps Warp Drive?? Or even a Flux Capacitor?? I believe those would be the only options to make our cars REALLY fast . . .
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Old 08-14-2007, 09:22 PM   #36
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I made a turbocharged briggs powered go-kart, it wasnt too shabby :)
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