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Old 07-26-2015, 12:42 AM   #19
phyrefighterjay
 
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What type of inline fuse do I use with this bypass procedure? How heavy of wire?
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Old 07-26-2015, 12:43 AM   #20
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I'm going direct from the battery.
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Old 07-26-2015, 08:05 AM   #21
CTScott
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phyrefighterjay View Post
I'm going direct from the battery.
The fuse should be a 40A one, like what fed the circuit originally. You still have to be very careful, as 40A of current is enough to make a damaged wire, where not all of the conductors within the wire are intact, hot enough to start a fire, before the fuse pops.
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Old 07-26-2015, 05:56 PM   #22
dj92
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CTScott: Any idea why so few cars use PWM for fan speed? Seems like it would be simpler/cheaper/cooler.
Because it requires pseudo-expensive semiconductors
In fact, they use it for the automatic A/C (highly recommended to retrofit)
Sadly, I did not find an affordable fan, so I had to build a controller for the stock one on my own, but it was totally worth the effort.
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Old 07-26-2015, 07:58 PM   #23
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If you're going straight from the battery I wouldn't mess around with wire size. Not going to cost much more to use some 8ga, and heavy-duty fuse holders are typically that size anyhow. Make sure your fuse holder is rated for 40A+ as many are only rated to 30A. Same goes for the switch, use one that is heavy duty and rated for the current. If you ever fix it correctly, let us know what happened.

Regarding PWM, it just seems weird that a little controller costs more than all that extra wiring and resistors. But I guess resistors and copper are cheap. So what if they have a habit of melting? :þ
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Old 07-27-2015, 10:34 AM   #24
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The wiring you can omit is far cheaper than the semiconductors I think :D
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