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Old 09-25-2019, 05:06 PM   #235
tsk94
 
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Originally Posted by tmontague View Post
*I forgot to mention my plan for future windshield defogging if needed. Bimmerworld sells a $100 kit that is clear defroster wires that I can wire up right off of the battery with a switch that works similar to your rear defroster wires. This IMO is a perfect solution as it is light weight and would be very effective. I likely won't need this until I start doing time attack in rain or shine in the future as I am mostly only tracking in warm temps without rain currently. It didn't make sense to keep all of the HVAC just for defogging purposes.
I don't know if you've purchased or installed it yet, but the BW defroster works great. I have it on my E92 race car. I was a bit reluctant at first to how effective it would be, but this season we've had quite a few wet track days and it's worked incredibly well.



A bit hard to see in the photo(kind of the point haha). It's a bit strange at first, but after driving with it for the first session the lines just disappear - great track car solution.
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Old 09-25-2019, 07:36 PM   #236
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Excellent I appreciate your input having used it first hand. How did the install go assuming you installed it when the windshield was already installed on the car?

I've done a fair amount if wiring on cars in the past but I'm curious if you wired it directly off the battery with an inline fuse or what you found was the best?
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Old 09-25-2019, 08:42 PM   #237
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Excellent I appreciate your input having used it first hand. How did the install go assuming you installed it when the windshield was already installed on the car?

I've done a fair amount if wiring on cars in the past but I'm curious if you wired it directly off the battery with an inline fuse or what you found was the best?
Yes, the windshield was in the car when it was installed. The install went fine. It comes with good instructions, if you're patient and take your time it will all go smoothly.

I can't remember exactly for the wiring, it wasn't directly off the battery though. I believe we used a power wire from a module we unplugged and removed during the build. Spliced into the power wire and then used an existing ground. In the instructions to provides a few options for wiring - we followed one of them and it worked perfectly! I may be wrong but I believe this is how we did it. That being said there are many options you can do to get power.
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Old 10-08-2019, 12:12 PM   #238
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In the 24's!!!!

I headed out with Ron and the crew for the last session of the year at TMP this past Friday. It was only my second track day of the year due to finances and the crazyness of life. I actually had not been to the track for a few months this year and my Yaris has sat in the back of a warehouse for that time.









I had started decluttering the wiring a few weeks ago as I was itching to work on my car and had the help of my son to do this. This was a much bigger project than I had anticipated and I was not able to properly finish it before the track day. I ended up semi finishing it and just tucking everything away so I could still drive around the track. In all this haste I ended up cutting and removing a few extra wires and my speedometer wasn't functioning. This only really mattered on the drive to the track as I don't really look at my speedometer much while on the track.





I have since fixed the speedometer after pouring over some EWD's and finding the respective wire that was missing and reconnecting it to the speed sensor wire. I currently don't have any dash illumination and my oil pressure light and CEL are not working. I'm still not sure if I will be reconnecting these as it really isn't useful for me at this point with what the car is used for.

I ended up removing about 2 piles of wired this big...



Anyways - the last time at TMP I managed to do a PB of a 1:26:44 which I was very happy with. I knew there was more time in the car as this was on a new tire set up and I was starting to push the brake pads outside of their limit as they were mildly fading and lacking that sharp bite at every brake zone.

I had very little left on my track pads and wasn't sure how much time I would have on them for the last lapping day of the season. I was hoping for a faster lap time but realistically didn't think it was going to happen. I did a quick 6 or so lap warm up session and then set tire pressures (fwiw I run a 30 psi rear and a 31 psi FR and a 34psi FL hot pressure). I headed out for a 20 minute second session and was very sloppy with my footwork. It had been a while and I wasn't feeling very confident in my sharpness. I managed a 1:27 in that session.

I headed out for my 3rd (and last) session of the night and started out by following Ron and his buddy in the two cup cars while I warmed up. There is nothing more fun on the track than chasing around two excellent drivers in these cup cars! They drove the pi$s out of them, one wheel in the air, then two, locking tires, sliding etc it was a wack of fun and helped me get my confidence back to over drive my car. They pointed me by and I just set out to have fun.

I started gaining confidence each lap and my footwork and braking zones drastically improved. My lap timer was showing that I was taking seconds off on some laps. I started pushing the limit in the big corners and the car reacted very well and in control. I was working my ass off to keep the car pointed where I wanted it to go, but it was getting faster. The track at this time was very quiet as most people went home so I decided to send it. I ended up turning a 1:24:98 on my last lap! I ended up pulling in because my brakes started making noise as if they were onto the backing plates. I was actually getting faster and faster every lap.

I removed the brake pads and sure enough it was virtually down to the plates, calling an end to the season on brake pads that owed me nothing else. I was extremely happy with a 1:24, check out Speed Academy's lap board to get some insight into lap time at TMP https://speed.academy/speed-academy-...e-leaderboard/

All those times are completed by Dave Pratt (sp?) who has over 15 years of driving at TMP and it a very fast driver - essentially as fast as most can expect to go in each lap time he has complete. On most lapping days at TMP a decent track day bro in an STI will throw down a 1:27 so a 1:24 in a Yaris is pretty darn fun.

The car ran flawlessly, it was a cool day (ambient around 10*C), oil temps sat around 230 and peaked at 240*F, coolant hovered around 195*F and peaked at 202*F. The AR-1 tires are phenomenal especially given their price range. They handled the continuous laps without becoming greasy and their wear is respectable. They actually felt faster and faster late into my sessions, meaning they probably could have stood to use some more heat in them. They also are not outright slick when cold like the BFG R1's were.

All in all I am very pleased with how the season ended even though the season was a bit of a write off in terms of track time. My plans for next season are to get a tow dolly, replace all of the side and rear glass with lexan so I can remove the inner door skins and heavy window motors. I will be getting a new set of more aggressive brake pads and adding in front windshield defrosters. I also plan on finalising the wiring and removing useless wiring from the engine bay and fuse blocks. The cabin wiring is almost done, but I need to properly mount the wiring so it is not just hanging around.

My wife and I recently purchased a new home that has a 12' wide single car garage that is heated and insulated. This is large enough to keep all of my car tools in there as well as store my Yaris. I'll finally be able to work on the Yaris as I please, even if it is just for an hour or so. No more commuting and bringing tools to go work on it!
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Old 10-09-2019, 07:22 PM   #239
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You gotta stop this talk! LOL! It's making me want to do some tire and suspension work on my car!

I know virtually nothing about racing, but I looked at the Speed Academy link and you pretty much tied the time of a Subaru WRX STI. Surely the STI would make significantly better times on the straightaways, so your little Yaris must be making it up in the turns. Of course driver skill would come into play as well. Is this a logical thought process? If so, wow, that is testimony to how well your car handles and the work you've done to get it there! If I'm wrong, feel free to correct me in my thought processes.

I don't know what it is about WRX's but that's the car - in its weakest and stock variant - that I'd love to be able to beat with my car. It looks like the average 0 - 60 for the various models of WRX is around 6s. I'd never be able to achieve that, especially without an LSD, but I did manage to raise the eyebrows of a WRX driver the other day. I noticed a (I think ~2012) WRX gaining on me in the distance and I was behind another car. I was cruising around 120 km/h, so with the Subaru a reasonable distance behind me, I pulled out from behind the car in front of me and matted it. I was up to 170 pretty fast. I slowed back to 120 and the Subaru cruised past me, the driver looking over with a grin on his face. He didn't speed up but I think he definitely appreciated how quick the little 'silver bullet' econobox in front of him took off. I think 7s might be possible in my car with better tires, but 6s? NEVER without an LSD, built engine, better trans and significantly more boost. As it sits, I lose time in first and second as it really wants to spin its tires.
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Old 10-10-2019, 12:58 PM   #240
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You gotta stop this talk! LOL! It's making me want to do some tire and suspension work on my car!

I know virtually nothing about racing, but I looked at the Speed Academy link and you pretty much tied the time of a Subaru WRX STI. Surely the STI would make significantly better times on the straightaways, so your little Yaris must be making it up in the turns. Of course driver skill would come into play as well. Is this a logical thought process? If so, wow, that is testimony to how well your car handles and the work you've done to get it there! If I'm wrong, feel free to correct me in my thought processes.

I don't know what it is about WRX's but that's the car - in its weakest and stock variant - that I'd love to be able to beat with my car. It looks like the average 0 - 60 for the various models of WRX is around 6s. I'd never be able to achieve that, especially without an LSD, but I did manage to raise the eyebrows of a WRX driver the other day. I noticed a (I think ~2012) WRX gaining on me in the distance and I was behind another car. I was cruising around 120 km/h, so with the Subaru a reasonable distance behind me, I pulled out from behind the car in front of me and matted it. I was up to 170 pretty fast. I slowed back to 120 and the Subaru cruised past me, the driver looking over with a grin on his face. He didn't speed up but I think he definitely appreciated how quick the little 'silver bullet' econobox in front of him took off. I think 7s might be possible in my car with better tires, but 6s? NEVER without an LSD, built engine, better trans and significantly more boost. As it sits, I lose time in first and second as it really wants to spin its tires.
lol definitely do tires first, but that of course will let you down the road of suspension. IMHO I would recommend 340TW BFG G-force sport comp 2's on your set up. You will never realistically (or safely) push past their limit on public roads and they are phenomenal and predictable in the wet. Anything more than simple lowering springs and slightly stiffer dampers would start to make you regret your decision over time...trust me I have been down that road and I was ok with it because my cars was becoming a dedicated track car but therre is no way I would have been dailying it much longer.

An LSD won't help you too much in a straight line at least not width typical Yaris tires. I still spin my tires if I take off from a dead stop with sticky tires at anything close to WOT. The LSD in my experience is the most beneficial when at the absolute limit of grip in the corners and you want to put down the throttle. It actually helps you pull forward and steer your car through the corners. Also really helps you control a snap oversteer by throttling out of it whereas an open diff will just spin the inside tire. The better driver I become the most I appreciate the clutch type diff.

Dave at Speed Academy is by far a better/more experienced driver than me so put those times in perspective...to be fair though he also doesn't have a ton of seat time in some of those cars he did laps on. The cars that they built he has a ton of seat time in, but some of the lap times are on viewers cars that he does a few hot laps in.

The 2016 STI no doubts pulls harder and faster in the straights however TMP is a track that is considered relatively low speed, very tight and extremely hard on brakes. It favours momentum cars or at least better drivers as there are less places to simply got WOT in a straight to make up for poor cornering and poor driver skill.

My car and myself are much faster on the infield at TMP as I can carry more speed through the turns and the Yaris transitions from corner to corner much better. Much of this has to do with the low weight of the Yaris compared to the STI - the Yaris is much more "flickable" side to side and part of which makes it such a blast to drive. Keep in mind my Yaris is still only putting down somewhere in the ball park of 138ish whp.

There is no doubt that the Yaris is being driven past its limits compared to many other big power cars at TMP. According to spectators they Yaris and cup cars are a blast to watch as they are screeching around corners and lifting wheels where as the other cars typically are much more cautious.
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Old 10-11-2019, 04:17 PM   #241
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lol definitely do tires first, but that of course will let you down the road of suspension. IMHO I would recommend 340TW BFG G-force sport comp 2's on your set up. You will never realistically (or safely) push past their limit on public roads and they are phenomenal and predictable in the wet. Anything more than simple lowering springs and slightly stiffer dampers would start to make you regret your decision over time...trust me I have been down that road and I was ok with it because my cars was becoming a dedicated track car but therre is no way I would have been dailying it much longer.

An LSD won't help you too much in a straight line at least not width typical Yaris tires. I still spin my tires if I take off from a dead stop with sticky tires at anything close to WOT. The LSD in my experience is the most beneficial when at the absolute limit of grip in the corners and you want to put down the throttle. It actually helps you pull forward and steer your car through the corners. Also really helps you control a snap oversteer by throttling out of it whereas an open diff will just spin the inside tire. The better driver I become the most I appreciate the clutch type diff.

Dave at Speed Academy is by far a better/more experienced driver than me so put those times in perspective...to be fair though he also doesn't have a ton of seat time in some of those cars he did laps on. The cars that they built he has a ton of seat time in, but some of the lap times are on viewers cars that he does a few hot laps in.

The 2016 STI no doubts pulls harder and faster in the straights however TMP is a track that is considered relatively low speed, very tight and extremely hard on brakes. It favours momentum cars or at least better drivers as there are less places to simply got WOT in a straight to make up for poor cornering and poor driver skill.

My car and myself are much faster on the infield at TMP as I can carry more speed through the turns and the Yaris transitions from corner to corner much better. Much of this has to do with the low weight of the Yaris compared to the STI - the Yaris is much more "flickable" side to side and part of which makes it such a blast to drive. Keep in mind my Yaris is still only putting down somewhere in the ball park of 138ish whp.

There is no doubt that the Yaris is being driven past its limits compared to many other big power cars at TMP. According to spectators they Yaris and cup cars are a blast to watch as they are screeching around corners and lifting wheels where as the other cars typically are much more cautious.
I checked out the Sport Comps. The smallest size is 195/50R15. Unfortunately this is out of spec for my factory alloys which is what I intend to keep on the car. I do actually have 195/60R15s on the car now, but there's a bit of sidewall bulge. It still handles well and the tires won't come off, I think, under extreme cornering, but it might defeat the purpose of the performance tire. A.K.A. I might not reap the benefits of such a great performance tire. Also, with the lower side wall height of the Sport Comp, the sidewall deformation might even be exaggerated.

Yeah, I might not see a lot of benefit from an LSD, and certainly wouldn't be worth the hassle and expense of installing one on this auto trans, although I believe there migh be one available. I know though that I could improve my 0 - 60 time without the amount of wheel spin I get. I'd really love get close to 6s, pipe dream, I know. I'm pretty sure that 7s might be attainable with the right launch as the car sits.
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Old 10-12-2019, 01:20 PM   #242
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I checked out the Sport Comps. The smallest size is 195/50R15. Unfortunately this is out of spec for my factory alloys which is what I intend to keep on the car. I do actually have 195/60R15s on the car now, but there's a bit of sidewall bulge. It still handles well and the tires won't come off, I think, under extreme cornering, but it might defeat the purpose of the performance tire. A.K.A. I might not reap the benefits of such a great performance tire. Also, with the lower side wall height of the Sport Comp, the sidewall deformation might even be exaggerated.

Yeah, I might not see a lot of benefit from an LSD, and certainly wouldn't be worth the hassle and expense of installing one on this auto trans, although I believe there migh be one available. I know though that I could improve my 0 - 60 time without the amount of wheel spin I get. I'd really love get close to 6s, pipe dream, I know. I'm pretty sure that 7s might be attainable with the right launch as the car sits.
I don't remember the exact specs of the factory rims but I cannot imagine the BFG's in the above size should cause any problems even under extreme cornering. Realistically the tire will start to give way before the bead and rim do. It is only a 340tw and even though it isd a sticky 340 it will not perform anywhere close to Hoosier slicks.

a 6sec 0-60 would be pretty nuts in a Yaris, but at the end of the day it's all a balance of cost and what it would cost to do a 6sec 0-60 would likely be quite a bit. Only you can make that decision but if you don't have plans to run the car at a drag strip or race it that price can be quite steep just for the sake of knowing it can run that fast. Like I said that is a decision only you can make as the owner and person who is actually paying to do everything to the car. It would be pretty wild though
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Old 10-12-2019, 01:48 PM   #243
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Coolant Temp Woes...

A couple days after the last track event I drove my car the short 20 min drive back to where I store it or at least will be storing it up until I move to a new house mid November. I run a 10% coolant to water mix with Amsoil coolant booster during the summer. The 10% coolant is to aid in adding some amount of lubrication as well as a moderate freeze protection in case of a flash freeze in the spring/fall. According to my coolant tester it is good to about -18*C which is pretty good. I have a few litres of this mix left and will use it up but eventually will switch to a 30/70 coolant/water mix as I don't have the coolant temp issues I used to have since I went with a performance radiator set up.

With my new radiator set up the filler neck is now below the top of the engine block. Simply raising the front of the car up doesn't allow the filler neck to get to the highest point anymore. The easiest solution if to get a pressure filler and a cheaper option is a Lisle spill free funnel which I will likely pick up for next season. But for now I have found if I jack up the passenger side as high as I can (the side the filler neck is on) and spend about 10 mins squeezing the lower rad hose, I can get a bunch of air to get out of the system. I then let it idle up to operating temps before driving it and let it cool down and depressurise and typically this causes no issue when doing this before a track day.


The other day I had an issue, a potentially big one. I drained and filled the race coolant with my typical 55/45 coolant/water winter mix I have in all of my cars. I didn't spend any time squeezing the rad hoses of letting the car idle. I simply lifted the one side of the car and re filled the coolant. I was in a bit of a rush as I had to get the car to the warehouse as I only had it insured for another day so I could drive it on the street. As I started to drive it I noticed the coolant going above the typical 190-195*F, and it was a cool day (~15*C ambient). It started going to 200 then 204 and up. I got onto the highway and opened it up a bit, the coolant started climbing and got into 240 and then 244*F. At 240* the red temp light started to flash. I immediately back off and cruised and noticed the coolant start to immediate lower. Then after another 30 secs it started dropping rapidly to 190*F, this meant the Tstat finally opened.

I drove like this for another few mins and then tried getting on the gas again a bit. This started to happen again when revs for above 4k. I back off when I saw the temp go above 230*F. The boiling point of the coolant is north of 255*F so I wasn't too worried about boiling over but I was worried about damage to the head at those temps.

Likely what happened was the following: Air still in system and eventually found its way to the Tsat therefore stopping it from opening. Coolant temp at the head climbed and climbed as there was no flow to the rad. This was made worse at high revs as this causes higher engine temps. I also think that the higher rpm may have caused the problem to become larger by the faster spinning water pump potentially moving the air bubbles towards the Tsat (not fully sure).

Before I drive it again I will jack up the passenger side, remove the rad cap and squeeze the lower rad hose to make the jiggle pin jiggle. If I remove the rad cap with the car flat on the ground 300mls of coolant will plummet out even when it isn't under pressure due to the coolant neck being below the highest point of the system.

Eventually I will use the Lisle spill free funnel and with that attached to the filler neck and the passenger side raised it will become the highest point of the system by a long shot and it should make this job much easier to do in the future.
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Old 10-12-2019, 01:51 PM   #244
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Unfortunately this is out of spec for my factory alloys
So are track days.

If you're going to be tracking you're gong to have to stop thinking like that
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Old Yesterday, 11:53 AM   #245
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Congrats! Super stoked to see you getting back in to the groove.

The hoarder in me wants to keep those wire harnesses "just in case I need them", but good on you for sorting them out!
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Old Yesterday, 07:12 PM   #246
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I don't remember the exact specs of the factory rims but I cannot imagine the BFG's in the above size should cause any problems even under extreme cornering. Realistically the tire will start to give way before the bead and rim do. It is only a 340tw and even though it isd a sticky 340 it will not perform anywhere close to Hoosier slicks.

a 6sec 0-60 would be pretty nuts in a Yaris, but at the end of the day it's all a balance of cost and what it would cost to do a 6sec 0-60 would likely be quite a bit. Only you can make that decision but if you don't have plans to run the car at a drag strip or race it that price can be quite steep just for the sake of knowing it can run that fast. Like I said that is a decision only you can make as the owner and person who is actually paying to do everything to the car. It would be pretty wild though
So you're pretty convinced that I'd be ok with the Sport Comps on my 5.5" rims? Do you have any other brand suggestions for a 195/55R15 tire before I get deeped into this? I've been turning a little sharper lately and there doesn't seem to be any adverse handling even with the cheap tires I have on the car which are 195/60R15s. I think a 55 tire might improve handling a bit, especially if it had a stiffer wall. Here is a comparison between my current tires and a 55 tire. I might notice a tiny bit better acceleration as well with the slightly smaller tire diameter. What I'd really like is a 205 or 215 tire but that would definitely necessitate wider wheels.

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