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Old 10-26-2009, 09:22 PM   #1
newhavenpatriot
 
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Hey, I'm from Connecticut, and I admittedly know next to nothing about cars or electronics... could someone from CT help me build a 4-button cruise control like the one in the pdf file on page 1 of this thread? I have a 2007 Yaris Liftback with an auto transmission, and I would gladly pay someone to build and install cruise control for me, cause I'd definitely screw it up. Lol.
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Old 11-14-2009, 08:41 PM   #2
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quick question,

im not real familiar with electrical circuits and whatnot, but when adding 2 resistors in a series is it equivalent to the sums of the 2 resistors?

the reason I ask is because i could not find a resistor between 351-426, so i grabbed a 250 and a 150, assuming that together they'd make 370?

or am I just being way too simple minded?
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Old 11-14-2009, 09:36 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by coffiend View Post
quick question,

im not real familiar with electrical circuits and whatnot, but when adding 2 resistors in a series is it equivalent to the sums of the 2 resistors?

the reason I ask is because i could not find a resistor between 351-426, so i grabbed a 250 and a 150, assuming that together they'd make 370?

or am I just being way too simple minded?
That's correct. When you connect them in series you sum the resistance (so 250+150 = 400).
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Old 11-14-2009, 10:05 PM   #4
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Okay thanks man, much appreciated
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Old 11-26-2009, 06:13 AM   #5
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thanks,than ive been waiting for this!but i'm not sure that can be use in my car at china!
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Old 11-26-2009, 07:24 AM   #6
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thanks,than ive been waiting for this!but i'm not sure that can be use in my car at china!
Unfortunately, it won't work on your Yaris. Another person from China tried it and verified that your ECM is not setup for cruise control.
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Old 11-28-2009, 02:57 PM   #7
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Two questions: 1) To make the A21-40 connection, are you just jamming the wire into the receptacle housing and hoping it makes connection to the corresponding pin on the ECM? Or do you know the part number for the proper crimp terminal to snap into the housing? 2) Why are you running the clutch switch to the engine bay fuse box instead of to C20-56 on the ECM?

Last edited by tomlock; 11-28-2009 at 03:12 PM.
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Old 11-28-2009, 03:27 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by tomlock View Post
Two questions: 1) To make the A21-40 connection, are you just jamming the wire into the receptacle housing and hoping it makes connection to the corresponding pin on the ECM? Or do you know the part number for the proper crimp terminal to snap into the housing? 2) Why are you running the clutch switch to the engine bay fuse box instead of to C20-56 on the ECM?
I'm not at my desk right now to easily do the search, so if you look at the other two cruise control threads, you'll find my posting with the part number for the correct pin for the ECM connector.

For the clutch switch connection, you can go to either point, although the fuse box connection is easier to get to from the clutch switch.
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Old 11-28-2009, 04:56 PM   #9
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What Voltage should i see at pin 40
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Old 11-28-2009, 05:41 PM   #10
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What Voltage should i see at pin 40
If your ECM supports cruise, pin 40 should measure 12 V with the ignition on, and nothing connected to the pin (other than your voltmeter).
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Old 12-06-2009, 05:28 PM   #11
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Rough idle following cruise mod on 2007 MT HB

I created a test box to confirm that this mod works on my '07 Hatch with MT before committing to drilling holes in my dash. The box is a portable version of the mod, containing two momentary switches and the correct resistor value. Yesterday, I poked out the rubber seal from Pin 40, ran my ground, and went for a putt. Nothing happened - except that the car began idling really slow - rattling and such. The A/C kicked it back into a normal idle. So, reading further I discovered my mistake - the clutch switch. Today I jumped the correct terminals, reattached my test box, and went for another putt. The cruise function does indeed work correctly (thanks to you smart folks). However, I still have a very low, very rough idle. This was not the case before yesterday.

Is it possible that my failure to follow instructions, not jumping the clutch switch terminals, and attempting to activate the cruise has affected my ECM? I find nothing out of place, nor did I disturb anything other than the ground lug on the battery and the ECM connector to install the wire at Pin 40.

Has anyone else had a rough idle during or after performing this mod? Is it a super-coincidence that I now must perform a forum search on rough idle, and then go clean my MAS or something else?

Thanks...
Attached Images
File Type: jpg test_box1.jpg (17.9 KB, 542 views)
File Type: jpg test_box2.jpg (14.1 KB, 545 views)
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Old 12-06-2009, 08:00 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yaris07hb

Is it possible that my failure to follow instructions, not jumping the clutch switch terminals, and attempting to activate the cruise has affected my ECM? I find nothing out of place, nor did I disturb anything other than the ground lug on the battery and the ECM connector to install the wire at Pin 40.

Has anyone else had a rough idle during or after performing this mod? Is it a super-coincidence that I now must perform a forum search on rough idle, and then go clean my MAS or something else?

Thanks...
Forgetting the clutch switch or bypass of it wouldn't cause an issue, other than the cruise not kicking on.

Your rough idle is probably due to having pulled the connector off of the ECM. Connector A21 carries power to the ECM, so when you pull it, you reset the short term data. Drive it for a couple of days and it should cure itself.
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Old 12-07-2009, 01:55 AM   #13
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Originally Posted by yaris07hb View Post
I still have a very low, very rough idle. This was not the case before yesterday.
Same thing happened here when I first did the mod to install the factory stalk on my '07 MT LB, CTScott's right: Give it a full tank of gas to re-learn things, it'll behave itself again.
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Old 12-07-2009, 04:31 PM   #14
yaris07hb
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I drove my Peanut Kar in to work today and the idle seems to be smoothing itself out. Thanks for putting my mind at ease over this - my mechanical skills come from the era of mixture and idle screws.

Time to search for a nice spring-centered, illuminated momentary rocker for my permanent installation.

Thanks,

Pat
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Old 12-09-2009, 09:53 PM   #15
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Wire Routing

So I need some help with the actual routing of the wires...

I have an 08 Sedan MT. I have gone with the 4 button method and Installed them on a project box from the Shack ( I don't want to drill my dash because i want to eventually get a stalk). I'm stowing it in the Drivers side mini glove box essentially the same as mounting on the power mirror panel. I have run the negative lead to the Driver's side door sill to the ground bolt. My issue is how did you guys route this cable over to the passenger side floor (to access the grommet under the carpet)? any pictures of this process would be really nice. Also some help with the clutch switch routing would be nice too.

Thanks guys.... I'm and Audio Engineer so the soldering and electrical stuff is pretty easy for me, but I have never really worked on cars. So I need that help.
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Old 12-09-2009, 10:24 PM   #16
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I have a factory Cruise stalk if anyone is interested
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Old 12-17-2009, 12:35 AM   #17
yaris07hb
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Cruise Mod installed in '07 LB

Thanks to all you good people that did the research on this. Here are photos of my install. I approached this in four stages:

1) Test box to verify my connections and functionality.
2) Installation of permanent switches.
3) Illumination of same.
4) Construction and installation of a CTScott-based LED module.

I was going to install a spring-centered momentary rocker in the power mirror blank-off plate but couldn't find one that's backlit. In another thread I found that the HVAC panel has plenty of empty space so I went with the mushroom momentary switches with a separate LED connector. In retrospect, I should have gone with 14mm from the edge of the HVAC panel instead of 13mm to give the buttons a more centered look. I placed a terminal block behind the passenger glove compartment on a handy brace I found in the corner, making all my connections there. I used a 2K resistor on each LED and tied into the lighting control rheostat at pin 2 (-) and pin 5 (+). I've collected and/or purchased all the goodies for the "cruise on" LED module, assembled it to my experiment breadboard and am in the process of figuring out why it doesn't bench test properly. Once that's done, I'll decide were to put my indicator LED. Yes, I could use the LED's in the buttons but I want them illuminated so I can find them in the dark. One mod that I intend to execute is a tach install - I'm thinking that would be a nice place for my LED. We'll see.
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File Type: jpg yaris_cruise_buttons2.jpg (5.8 KB, 509 views)
File Type: jpg yaris_cruise_buttons1.jpg (27.7 KB, 517 views)
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Old 12-31-2009, 11:59 PM   #18
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I have a factory Cruise stalk if anyone is interested

Price on this? Would this work with my car?

Thanks
Duane
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