DIY - 2009 Cruise Control for $10, without pulling the steering wheel and airbag

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by SEALL

My yaris's engine is 4ZRFE,1600cc,Super ECT 4-speed AT,ABS yes,VSC no,maybe only have the 1600cc engines of the Chinese market.

I think you are correct. Are you able to see the part number label on your ECM?

[SEALL]

Originally Posted by CTScott

I think you are correct. Are you able to see the part number label on your ECM?

I don't know what's the part number,I saw the lable on my ECM,there are some number on it:89661-0DA20 ; TD275100-9872 ; C90.

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by SEALL

I don't know what's the part number,I saw the lable on my ECM,there are some number on it:89661-0DA20 ; TD275100-9872 ; C90.

89661-0DA20 is the part number. It looks like it is a China specific ECM.

[rtom]

Anybody know about relevant wiring in 2010 liftbacks?

I'd like to try this on a 2010 2-door base liftback purchased in the US!

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by rtom

Anybody know about relevant wiring in 2010 liftbacks?

I'd like to try this on a 2010 2-door base liftback purchased in the US!

2010 is identical to 2009 for the DIY cruise mod.

[SEALL]

It seems useless to put on a USDM ECM.

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by SEALL

It seems useless to put on a USDM ECM.

Agreed. I don't think it would be compatible with your engine.

[SEALL]

Originally Posted by CTScott

Agreed. I don't think it would be compatible with your engine.

Although there is no success, but very grateful to you for your help,And your very pleasant exchanges.

[Stove]

I'm going to try the 4 button set up and plan on getting it installed this weekend. I decided to put all the resistors in their own enclosure and attach the buttons with butt connectors. I can tuck the module up under the dash and if a button ever goes bad (read as: When I spill my drink into one), I can simply unplug the switch and replace it without any soldering. I have some buttons but I'm going to see if I can find something better.

I'll take more pics as I progress.
I couldn't find the right resistors so I had to stack them to get the right Ohm requirements.
I've got about $24 dollars into it so far.

Added more pics. I haven't settled on where I want the buttons or what type I want so I installed the cheap ones I had next to the Aux Port for now

I mounted the CC module on the cross bar under the steering wheel. The box has to lay on its bottom, not on its side as shown in the first picture of it. The steering column cover wont fit if it mounted on its side.

It works! CTScott, and everyone else that contributed, thank you for all the great info.

[drunix]

How does that little panel pull out? (The "push button start cover".) Is there a trick to it? Thanks. I pulled it part way out and it seems to not want to part company with the panel on the right side.

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by drunix

How does that little panel pull out? (The "push button start cover".) Is there a trick to it? Thanks. I pulled it part way out and it seems to not want to part company with the panel on the right side.

You have to remove the vertical trim to the right of it first (which you can just pull off with your fingers as well).

[packetrace]

So in a sedan yaris 2009 you just have to do the switch mount and connect the red wire to the blue one and the black wire(ground) to the brown one of the d3 connector ? Am I right ?

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by packetrace

So in a sedan yaris 2009 you just have to do the switch mount and connect the red wire to the blue one and the black wire(ground) to the brown one of the d3 connector ? Am I right ?

It depends on when in 09 the sedan was built. Some people with 09 sedans have found that the blue wire from the ECM to the steering column is not present. If it is, then the answer to your question is "Yes".

[packetrace]

Originally Posted by CTScott

It depends on when in 09 the sedan was built. Some people with 09 sedans have found that the blue wire from the ECM to the steering column is not present. If it is, then the answer to your question is "Yes".

thank you Scott it worked perfectly :D It'S amazingg !!

[birdman]

Ingenious!

[Chuck]

Awesome! Just got mine done. $25.48 total. All parts from Radio Shack except for the splice/tap connectors. I forgot to get them while I was there, but grabbed them at advance auto parts for a little over a dollar. They are included in the price though. I got the red and black buttons (which came in one package), three pack of wiring: red, green, and black 20ga, 470ohm and 100ohm 1/4w resistors, 2 18-22ga splice/tap connectors (red), and the soldering iron kit. Thank you so much to those that put in the time to figure this out for the rest of us! :)

[mjmuck]

I followed the instructions with the 4 switch method (minus installing the clutch switch) and even got a connector for the ecm to make sure it connects. I am still not getting this to work. I connected the ground to the metal bar underneath the steering wheel. I believe I made a good jump on the clutch connecter.

What problems have people had with this and the solutions? Maybe I'm just missing something silly. I'm trying to drive from KC to Chicago in a week and would really prefer this to work.

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by mjmuck

I followed the instructions with the 4 switch method (minus installing the clutch switch) and even got a connector for the ecm to make sure it connects. I am still not getting this to work. I connected the ground to the metal bar underneath the steering wheel. I believe I made a good jump on the clutch connecter.

What problems have people had with this and the solutions? Maybe I'm just missing something silly. I'm trying to drive from KC to Chicago in a week and would really prefer this to work.

The biggest problems are typically bad connections or the ECM pin not being fully inserted. If you have a multimeter, with the ignition in the on position, measure the voltage at your switches where the ECM wire connects. It should read 12 V and then if you press and hold the on/off switch it should drop to 0 V.