Request for help: diagramming a relay

[BailOut]

Tamago,

Another great but ineffective idea. The problem is that the ACC bus is cut out by the ignition key's rotation long before the starter solenoid is active. You can see this by turning your key to the on position and waiting for your stereo to power up, then slowly cranking the key towards the Start position.

My own wiring idea in the first post doesn't work, either. What I'm going to need to do is hook the stereo's power up to a line that maintains power during a start. I know the brake lights and ECU retain power during a start, but the brake lights are powered at all times and I am wary of tapping into the ECU's power supply.

Does anyone have other ideas, please?

[CTScott]

OK. I see that now. When the keyswitch moves from on to start the ACC feed is switched to the IG1 feed.

How about jumping ACC (white in pin 2) to IG1 (green in pin 1) at the keyswitch? That way regardless of the keyswitch position ACC will be energized.

[BailOut]

Originally Posted by CTScott

OK. I see that now. When the keyswitch moves from on to start the ACC feed is switched to the IG1 feed.

How about jumping ACC (white in pin 2) to IG1 (green in pin 1) at the keyswitch? That way regardless of the keyswitch position ACC will be energized.

Thanks for another great idea, CTScott, but jumping pin 1 to pin 2 on the key switch did nothing. No change at all. I also tried removing the ACC cut relay with the jump in place, which doesn't even allow the stereo to turn on at all. I also tried jumping pins 3 and 4 on the ACC cut relay while leaving the key switch jump in place, which allows the stereo to turn on but still allows it to be killed when engaging the starter.

This is turning out to be one bugger of a problem!

[CTScott]

Hmmmmmm.

Try jumping ACC (white pin 2) to IG2 (pink pin 6) instead.

You will still need the ACC cut relay bypass (jumpering 3 to 4) in place, as the ACC cut relay is between the keyswitch and the radio.

[eTiMaGo]

Would bypassing the whole ACC cut system be detrimental to the accessories/starter? I mean, there's a reason why this system exists, right?

If so, I'm not sure how you would wire this up exactly, but you could use the power from the START position to compensate for the "hole" of the ACC cut, only for the radio, if you know what I mean.

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by eTiMaGo

Would bypassing the whole ACC cut system be detrimental to the accessories/starter? I mean, there's a reason why this system exists, right?

If so, I'm not sure how you would wire this up exactly, but you could use the power from the START position to compensate for the "hole" of the ACC cut, only for the radio, if you know what I mean.

His original intention was to just slip power in during the "cut". This is possible, but would require a relay and a diode. When researching the "cut" circuit I found that the sole purpose of the circuit is to keep things from flickering, as opposed to protecting the starter.

[BailOut]

Originally Posted by CTScott

Hmmmmmm.

Try jumping ACC (white pin 2) to IG2 (pink pin 6) instead.

You will still need the ACC cut relay bypass (jumpering 3 to 4) in place, as the ACC cut relay is between the keyswitch and the radio.

This was a difficult one to pull off due to the IG2 wire being a much smaller gauge than pins 1 and 2, but I got 'er done. Still no change. The stereo and instrument panel still cut out during a start.

Thank again for feeding me ideas, though.

[CTScott]

Check the voltage on IG1 and IG2 to ground during starting. I am 99% sure that either or both of them remain hot during starting.

If that is the case, then tap from there directly to the radio's switched power input (Grey wire in pin 3 of the OEM harness).