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Old 12-06-2006, 03:15 PM   #1
acrbill
 
Drives: Polar White Hatch
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: chicago
Posts: 407
power rear hatch

I just got my power door lock kit that I ordered off of ebay. I also ordered an alarm so I could open the doors with a remote.

I had the guy send another actuator so I could figure a way to unlock the rear hatch.

It took a bit of thinking but I figured it out.

This first pic shows the lock mechanism from behind. If you pop off the little inspection cover you will see that when you turn the key the white plastic arm moves.

http://home.comcast.net/~job0b/1112.JPG

The lock kit comes with some strapping that you attach to the actuator and then bend it so you can screw it to the door frame. In this instance they would be too flimsy so I bought a length of #10-32 threaded rod.
I threaded it into the screw holes on the actuator and secured them to the door frame through 2 unused holes.

Here is a pic of the holes that I used. Its the 2 holes on the bottom of the pic.

http://home.comcast.net/~job0b/1113.JPG


If you look at the first pic you will see the open area on the plastic lever piece. This is what made the install sort of trickey. First off that entire mechanism moves when you press the button in. That meant that I could not mount the linkage solidly.
The other problem was that if you measure the swing of the end of the lever the actuator did not have enough push length to completely open or close the lock. As you move closer to the center of the mechanism obviously that swing amount lessens, but you lose leverage so I decided that I had to mount the linkage to the center of that arm slightly favoring the center of the lock.

Now that I had the theory worked out I needed to find something that would let me mount the linkage to the arm and still allow the button to be pressed without bending or binding.

What I ended up doing is securing a 1" #10-32 bolt to the lever. I used washers on each end and sandwiched the lever.


http://home.comcast.net/~job0b/1114.JPG


I turned the end of the actuator so that the rod would have an up and down range of movement.
I bent the linkage to line up with the bolt and marked the bolts location on the linkage. I then looped the end of the rod to attach to the bolt.


http://home.comcast.net/~job0b/1115.JPG

here in the last pic you can see the rod coming through the holes, the bent linkage and how it attaches to the bolt and lock mechanism.

http://home.comcast.net/~job0b/1116.JPG


Once it was all done I used my portable jumper cable box and triggered the
actuator to be sure that it fully locked and unlocked the mechanism. I had to open up the bend on the linkage a bit, but now it works good.

Next step will be to run the wiring, but that shouldn't be too difficult.
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