Valve Adjustment

[peckerhead]

Originally Posted by UberSilver

Not sure about Toyotas, but on most motorcycles the intake shims are the same thickness, and the exhaust are also matching. If the 1NZ-FE is the same way, buying a trashed engine will not help.

Hopefully this isn't the case. I'll know right away, as the lifters are marked with a number corresponding to their length. If I'm lucky, there will be at least one or two in there that will get me where I need to be with my adjustment.

[DMZ]

If you know the size of the shims, the diameter, not the thickness, say 10mm. Check with a motorcycle shop for a kit. You can get a variety of sizes for about $25:

http://www.cyclebuy.com/shopping/hot...imkits_100.htm

[Absolutely Red 12]

Originally Posted by peckerhead

Hopefully this isn't the case. I'll know right away, as the lifters are marked with a number corresponding to their length. If I'm lucky, there will be at least one or two in there that will get me where I need to be with my adjustment.

They are not marked, they need to be measured.
Even IF they were marked, the numbers would be irrelevant due to wear, as you need to measure the gap, then the actual thickness of the lifter bucket, do the math for optimal gap, read the chart to see which replacement you will need.

[Absolutely Red 12]

Originally Posted by DMZ

If you know the size of the shims, the diameter, not the thickness, say 10mm. Check with a motorcycle shop for a kit. You can get a variety of sizes for about $25:

http://www.cyclebuy.com/shopping/hot...imkits_100.htm

You obviously havent read this thread completely, the 1NZ-FE does NOT use shims, they use variable size lifters.

[Absolutely Red 12]

Originally Posted by peckerhead

I can tell my valve adjustment needs to be set, because I can hear kind of a funky idle after I get it hot.

I'm an auto tech, and I've looked into this a little bit. Looks like there are something like 50 different length lifters available from Toyota, and the only way to figure out what you need it to measure your clearances, determine the change to be made, pull the cams, and measuring your existing lifters. The lifters are $25 each from the dealer, and they get $500 to do the job if they need to replace one only.

Have you considered a bad VVT solenoid?

Check your clearances first, at the cost of a valve cover gasket,
You might be surprised.

There are 35 not 50, and they run $12 a piece not $25.

[peckerhead]

Originally Posted by Absolutely Red 12

Have you considered a bad VVT solenoid?

Check your clearances first, at the cost of a valve cover gasket,
You might be surprised.

There are 35 not 50, and they run $12 a piece not $25.

I haven't considered that solenoid. I assumed I'd see a code. Also, the symptoms are rough idle and/or stalling. I'm not noticing anything near that bad. It's just barely noticeable, and only when the engine is hot.

I do plan to check the valve clearances...just having trouble making time for it at the moment. I'm trying to plan for the worst based on the way the car is behaving.

I was quoted $25 by the dealership where I purchased the car.

[peckerhead]

Originally Posted by Absolutely Red 12

They are not marked, they need to be measured.
Even IF they were marked, the numbers would be irrelevant due to wear, as you need to measure the gap, then the actual thickness of the lifter bucket, do the math for optimal gap, read the chart to see which replacement you will need.

It doesn't really matter to me either way. It'd be easy to mic all 16 and see what I have to work with. I can get them cheap, and my car won't have to sit for a week while I wait for the dealership to get parts. If I have one tight valve, there's a 1 in 16 chance that one of my used lifters will do the job. It's not rocket science.

[ilikerice]

http://share.qclt.com/%E4%B8%B0%E7%9...1u/a040001.pdf

Absolutely Red is correct. These motors do not use replacable shims. gotta take the cam out to replace the lifters or buckets as some like to call them.

If it is worse when it is hot, I would think that would rule out valve clearances or cam lobes being worn.. metal expands. So under cold conditions the valve clearance is at its max and would cause more tapping and not opening the valves enough. After it has gotten to operating tempature is would be less noticable.

[Absolutely Red 12]

Originally Posted by peckerhead

It doesn't really matter to me either way. It'd be easy to mic all 16 and see what I have to work with. I can get them cheap, and my car won't have to sit for a week while I wait for the dealership to get parts. If I have one tight valve, there's a 1 in 16 chance that one of my used lifters will do the job. It's not rocket science.

1 in 560 (16 X 35)

[peckerhead]

Originally Posted by Absolutely Red 12

1 in 560 (16 X 35)

1 in 16.

One tight valve. 16 used lifters on hand.

[Absolutely Red 12]

Originally Posted by peckerhead

1 in 16.

One tight valve. 16 used lifters on hand.

35 different sizes.
No, the factory ones are not all the same, they are sized to fit from the 35 available, at the factory.

[yarista]

Those of you commenting on this thread should please stop your squabbling. Whoever needs to adjust their valves, kindly do so and share relevant occurances during the proceedure. I started this thread in order to disseminate technical information as opposed to a bickering forum.

[why?]

rofl. this is a discussion. no insults have been thrown. don't be so thin skinned.

[pj ph]

learned a lot from these posts.

i think a need my valve lifters replaced.
when engine is hot, sound is clearly audible like a diesel engine on idle.

[JimKellyfan]

These are loud, clattery engines. If you are getting good mileage and not smoking or fouling out plugs and no codes, then it is merely a shadow shark/land shark effect. Get dynamat and place it all over.
From my experience, there will be anywhere from one to a handful of good techs that work at dealers, that can do the diagnosis when needed.
I am a good tech, not the best and far from the worst.
I am not afraid to tackle most things, but there are a few things I won't try and tackle like rebuilding a trans for one.
I am in a highly populated area, and there are more than a handful of people I would trust with my car.
But, I can count em all on two hands or less.
But, I don't know em all either.
I work at Ford, but have experience on too many make and models.
I am one of those techs you can trust on your car and there are some out there for you as well.
Good luck in your quest(s).
(and actually, I wouldn't trust too many aftermarket places, especially boxes or chains)
There are some good dealers to go too, and some good mom and pops, and typically a good mom and pop had dealer experience first. Working in a dealer on and off over too long a period of time, we, at dealers, get a handful of stuff, that others cannot diagnose. So, it is typical and understandable, the frustration, and is expected.
After all, we are hated for being expensive, but then loved when we are the only ones to fix it right, but then only briefly.
Remember, the worst thing one wants to do is get their teeth worked on, followed second by getting their car worked on.
Did you know, that 22% of women want to sleep with their mechanic ?
Ok, I am ranting.
But, good luck with your quest(s).

[JimKellyfan]

An example. A repair shop chain. I had 50 of em as district dude. Out of all stores, I was a top 5 tech. Scary stuff. So, learn to fix yourself, or mechanic shop around. PM people near you, maybe they can direct you.