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Old 09-20-2017, 06:08 PM   #1
06YarisRS
 
Drives: 06 2ZR Turbo Yaris RS
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2nd day in shop for manifold replacement

I was talking to the indy shop owner that's doing the removal and installation of my exhaust manifold. He said he's got one bolt left to extract from the head. He doesn't want to make an estimate about how much more time it will take to complete the job. I think I'm going to be facing quite a bill on this one. I guess all of the bolts were problematic as in severly corroded and broke off. Surprisingly, the heat shield looks almost new and everything else in the engine compartment is pretty much corrosion free. I think the combination of salt water from our winter roads and the constant heating and cooling did a real number on the bolts.

I hope I can stay on budget with this last - and definitely most expensive - repair. Thankfully, I did all the other repairs, mechanical and cosmetic myself.
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Last edited by 06YarisRS; 09-20-2017 at 06:19 PM.
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Old 09-20-2017, 10:50 PM   #2
SirDigby
 
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that sucks. i think mine took like 20 minutes...
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Old 09-21-2017, 04:22 PM   #3
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Why are you replacing the manifold?

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Old 09-21-2017, 06:20 PM   #4
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ouch, I wouldn't want to do that job with bolts that have snapped. If they are in good shape it's a breeze.

This is why I pulled my manifold and applied anti seize to the bolts back when I had my 1nz and I did the same to my 2zr when it was out of the car. Saves my ass down the road when and if I ever need to remove the manifold.
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Old 09-22-2017, 05:22 AM   #5
06YarisRS
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SirDigby View Post
that sucks. i think mine took like 20 minutes...
Haha, yeah, I wish that was the case for mine. He explained - and you all likely know this being Yaris owners - that the manifold flange is so thin that when the bolts break off, they are almost flush with the head, hence less to weld a nut on to.
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Old 09-22-2017, 05:23 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WeeYari View Post
Why are you replacing the manifold?

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Hey WeeYari.

The flange ears at the bottom of the manifold were gone - completely rusted off.
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Old 09-22-2017, 05:37 AM   #7
06YarisRS
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tmontague View Post
ouch, I wouldn't want to do that job with bolts that have snapped. If they are in good shape it's a breeze.

This is why I pulled my manifold and applied anti seize to the bolts back when I had my 1nz and I did the same to my 2zr when it was out of the car. Saves my ass down the road when and if I ever need to remove the manifold.
That sounds like a very smart move. Not sure that the tech did the antiseeze application.

I can tell you that he had to do a lot of extra exhaust work. There were two sections of pipe that he replaced by cutting and welding in tubing. He basically replaced long sections before and after the cat. He had to weld in a bung port for the downstream O2 sensor, which also needs replacing. I used my Torque to check the O2 sensor voltage - Bank 1 Sensor 2 = 0 volts. I ordered one from eBay and will install that next week. On the plus side, the upstream 02 sensor is showing appropriate voltages and the AFR commanded and measured are in sync.

After the job, we discovered yet another leak in the section just forward of the muffler pipe at a hanger. He offered to repair that free and will do it next week. I can order a weld in pipe section from Rock Auto for $55.00 CAD delivered, so will probably go that route and have him install that.

I think the exhaust is all original and I'm surprised that there is as much left of it as there is given it's a 2006 and winter here is h*ll on cars with all the salt and crap on the roads.

The whole job cost me $580.00 (the only repair I've actually had to pay labour charges for) and he did a lot of fabricating and also completely undercoated my car too. I had done a lot of rustproofing already - atf in rockers, panels, doglegs, hatch, doors, hood, engine bay etc and I'd sprayed the underbody, but he added a ton of really nice "homebrewed" rustproofing (a combination of white grease (which he has in 5 gallon pails mixed with atf and a thinner of some kind). It's very nice gooey stuff that doesn't drip.

I'm pleased with his work and given the time to do the jiob, also pleased with the bill.

I'd say my little Yaris is about 95% finished...Getting there!

Probably the last job I'm going to get done is the installation of a keyless entry system. I've been quoted $200.00 taxes in from an aquaintance that has his own car electronics installation business.
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2006 Yaris 5 Door RS 2ZR-FE (2011 Corolla 1.8L) Swapped, Automatic, T-28 Turbocharged (8 psi), HSD MonoPro Coilovers, DIY W/M Injection, custom 3" cold air intake, custom 2.5" exhaust, TRD rear sway bar, Penguin Garage 13mm spacers (rear), custom Civic front lip, full repaint, Android 6.0 7" touchscreen, Rockford Fosgate speakers, tweeters, NVX underseat subwoofer
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Last edited by 06YarisRS; 09-22-2017 at 05:59 AM.
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Old 09-22-2017, 08:28 AM   #8
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Originally Posted by 06YarisRS View Post
Hey WeeYari.

The flange ears at the bottom of the manifold were gone - completely rusted off.
Wow! Previous owner must have been running for several years with the donut gasket gone. So the midpipe was essentially just flopping about?

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Old 09-22-2017, 02:57 PM   #9
hairygityeti
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Exclamation Rusty bolt removel

Quote:
Originally Posted by 06YarisRS View Post
I was talking to the indy shop owner that's doing the removal and installation of my exhaust manifold. He said he's got one bolt left to extract from the head. He doesn't want to make an estimate about how much more time it will take to complete the job. I think I'm going to be facing quite a bill on this one. I guess all of the bolts were problematic as in severly corroded and broke off. Surprisingly, the heat shield looks almost new and everything else in the engine compartment is pretty much corrosion free. I think the combination of salt water from our winter roads and the constant heating and cooling did a real number on the bolts.

I hope I can stay on budget with this last - and definitely most expensive - repair. Thankfully, I did all the other repairs, mechanical and cosmetic myself.
I had the same problem and purchased an "Erbauer" 6 piece bolt remover set for £12 and it work amazingly well,some bolts had hardly any head but it still worked with out effort. I did the change over myself purchased a second hand ( like new ) manifold fr£30 and gasket set for £8 im no mechanic but i did it within an hour.
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Old 09-22-2017, 10:32 PM   #10
06YarisRS
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hairygityeti View Post
I had the same problem and purchased an "Erbauer" 6 piece bolt remover set for £12 and it work amazingly well,some bolts had hardly any head but it still worked with out effort. I did the change over myself purchased a second hand ( like new ) manifold fr£30 and gasket set for £8 im no mechanic but i did it within an hour.
I'm glad you were successful at removing your bolts. It just wasn't a job I was comfortable doing. After watching a number of videos since, I think I would probably give it a try if I was facing the job again. I guess all the heads of the bolts just crumbled when he tried to remove them. I believe he used a mig welder to build up the bolts that were flush with the head in order to get something to grip onto. However, as much as I didn't want to spend that kind of quid on the job, I'm still within my budget.

The tech did also say that he removed an axle and a motor mount and titled the engine forward to give himself more room to work.
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2006 Yaris 5 Door RS 2ZR-FE (2011 Corolla 1.8L) Swapped, Automatic, T-28 Turbocharged (8 psi), HSD MonoPro Coilovers, DIY W/M Injection, custom 3" cold air intake, custom 2.5" exhaust, TRD rear sway bar, Penguin Garage 13mm spacers (rear), custom Civic front lip, full repaint, Android 6.0 7" touchscreen, Rockford Fosgate speakers, tweeters, NVX underseat subwoofer
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Last edited by 06YarisRS; 09-24-2017 at 07:40 AM.
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Old 09-22-2017, 10:48 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WeeYari View Post
Wow! Previous owner must have been running for several years with the donut gasket gone. So the midpipe was essentially just flopping about?

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Well, he claimed that it just broke before putting it up for sale. Yes, the midpipe was completely detached. I think he probably had the job priced out with an expensive OEM manifold and the other exhaust repairs, minor body work etc and decided it wasn't worth fixing.

Total repairs/upgrades for this car will be about $1200.00 CAD but that includes exhaust work, floor liners, autobody supplies, new brakes, trans fluid (6L) and filter, plugs, oil and filters (4), new alternator, liftgate struts, 02 sensor, mp3 aux adapter, rear bumper guard, 4 used but good winter tires and center console. I still have enough in my budget for a keyless entry system. Then...I think I'm done!
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Old 09-23-2017, 02:33 PM   #12
hairygityeti
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 06YarisRS View Post
I'm glad you were successful at removing your bolts. It just wasn't a job I was comfortable doing. After watching a number of videos since, I think I would probably give it a try if I was facing the jiob again. I guess all the heads of the bolts just crumbled when he tried to remove them. I believe he used a mig welder to build up the bolts that were flush with the head in order to get something to grip onto. However, as much as I didn't want to spend that kind of quid on the job, I'm still within my budget.

The tech did also say that he removed an axle and a motor mount and titled the engine forward to give himself more room to work.
For the price its a tool i would recommend everyone to have in their tool box! i hope all expensive repair bills are behind you now with many miles off fun ahead

https://www.screwfix.com/p/erbauer-b...FQWlUQodptwFIw
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Last edited by hairygityeti; 09-23-2017 at 02:36 PM. Reason: add helpful link
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Old 09-23-2017, 08:29 PM   #13
06YarisRS
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hairygityeti View Post
For the price its a tool i would recommend everyone to have in their tool box! i hope all expensive repair bills are behind you now with many miles off fun ahead

https://www.screwfix.com/p/erbauer-b...FQWlUQodptwFIw
For sure a good addition to one's tool box. Thanks for the link. Another item I'm interested in getting is the screw type bolt extractors as in link below (not sure about the quality of these, but you get the idea). I watched a couple of videos where the broken bolt/stud was drilled and then the screw extractor used to remove the bolt after heat was applied to the surrounding area. It didn't look too difficult.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/5Pc-Screw-Ex...kAAOSwbopZVCcn

I took the kids out for a long drive today. I decided to see how decent the fuel economy is. According to Torque Pro, I averaged 48.9 mpg (imperial) though I maintained 100 km/h and the highway is relatively flat. Combined fuel economy for the trip - we did some city driving - was 42.5 mpg. Not sure how accurate that is but anywhere in that ballpark is fantastic fuel economy in my books, especially when compared to our van with a combined mpg of 22.
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https://www.instagram.com/2zr_turbo_yarisrs/

Last edited by 06YarisRS; 09-24-2017 at 07:42 AM.
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