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Old 01-19-2018, 06:45 PM   #1
XXXXX
 
Drives: 2008 Yaris Hatch
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Hamilton, ON
Posts: 4
Steering Rack Bolt Broken (AKA what size is it??)

YarisWorld,

My 2008 Yaris Hatch has had some noise lately. Going over bumps, cracks, etc. This city has notoriously bad roads and the car has 310,000 KM on it (about 193,000 miles).

Replacing the sway bar links fixed 95% of the noise but there was still a slight clunking and feedback in the steering wheel when going over bumps (especially when wheels turned)

Thought it was the sway bar bushings, so went under the car again and came across this:

steering_rack_bolt.gif

Notice the nut is still attached. It broke off at the head of the bolt.

Does anyone know what size bolt that is? I'm hoping I can just get a metric grade 10.9 without going to the stealership for a $20 bolt.
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Old 01-19-2018, 07:49 PM   #2
ex-x-fire
 
Drives: 2010 yaris 3 door hatch
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Sheboygan Falls, Wi.
Posts: 504
Use an open end wrench to determine the size, if a 12mm open end fits snuggly over the threaded portion, that's your size. As for pitch, do you have any thread files?
If you go to a place like Fastenal they should be able to figure it all out.
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Old 01-19-2018, 10:00 PM   #3
XXXXX
 
Drives: 2008 Yaris Hatch
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Hamilton, ON
Posts: 4
Quote:
Originally Posted by ex-x-fire View Post
Use an open end wrench to determine the size, if a 12mm open end fits snuggly over the threaded portion, that's your size. As for pitch, do you have any thread files?
If you go to a place like Fastenal they should be able to figure it all out.
Thanks for the ideas. I don't have any thread files or gauges but I do have digital calipers.

I put my calipers on it and it came in at 11.75mm on the major diameter of the threads. Thread pitch per the calipers is 1.25mm. (EDIT)

So looks like a 12mm Fine bolt.

The nut is 17mm, but the bolt head is missing. Probably the same?

This was a flange bolt and nut. Is the size of the hex head size going to correspond to a certain shank and flange diameter? Rather than using a washer on either end I'd like to keep the same style.

Also, this isn't a nylock nut nor serrated. It has six stamped dots around the circumference of the flange. Distorted thread?

Finally there's the length. I guess any old length would do as long as it's long enough. I'd like the un-threaded portion to make it past the shear point of the bolted connection.

It occurred to me to use any old grade 8 bolt that would closely fit, but If someone had access to the OEM spec of course that's preferable.

It's gotta be in some kind of technical/service manual somewhere?

Last edited by XXXXX; 01-19-2018 at 10:10 PM.
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Old 01-19-2018, 10:07 PM   #4
XXXXX
 
Drives: 2008 Yaris Hatch
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Hamilton, ON
Posts: 4
Also... I wonder if that bolt flange was serrated?
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Old 01-20-2018, 08:34 AM   #5
ex-x-fire
 
Drives: 2010 yaris 3 door hatch
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Sheboygan Falls, Wi.
Posts: 504
If your going to worry about all that then get the Toyota bolt, otherwise use washers & red Loctite.
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Old 12-20-2018, 05:12 PM   #6
ojeysky
 
Drives: Sedan Yaris 2010
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Nigeria
Posts: 54
Quote:
Originally Posted by XXXXX View Post
YarisWorld,

My 2008 Yaris Hatch has had some noise lately. Going over bumps, cracks, etc. This city has notoriously bad roads and the car has 310,000 KM on it (about 193,000 miles).

Replacing the sway bar links fixed 95% of the noise but there was still a slight clunking and feedback in the steering wheel when going over bumps (especially when wheels turned)

Thought it was the sway bar bushings, so went under the car again and came across this:

Attachment 59229

Notice the nut is still attached. It broke off at the head of the bolt.

Does anyone know what size bolt that is? I'm hoping I can just get a metric grade 10.9 without going to the stealership for a $20 bolt.
Am having this noise whenever I hit bumps or rough road, I have changed tie rods but seem not to be the issue. My mechanic is suggesting I change the entire steering rack, considering the cost of the I am wondering if the problem is the sway bar/bolt like yours. Can you perhaps show me with pictures where to look at under the car?
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