Valve's broken. - Toyota Yaris Forums

N3misiS · 09-07-2010, 07:59 AM

Hi Guys,

Been a while, I need some advice, Recently 5 days ago I dropped 2 exhaust valves in Cyl no 3 on a 1krfe motor 1000Cc, and it got messed up real good, so I decided to get a motor, a new second hand one. Now apon striping the motor I noticed they are using single valve springs, if you ask me in this day and age its pretty sucky for Toyota to do so, I would have expected double valve springs, I will insert the photo's in to the forum of how the head and piston looks like....Its a mes.

Do you guys think it will help getting Double valve springs and replacing the original? Theoretically the motor will rev higher and be more stable with less or no valve bounce at higher RPM.

But what I want to know is will it help that I don't drop 2 Exhaust valves again?

Thanks guys!

henry33 · 09-07-2010, 08:10 AM

post the photos i would like to see it

Yaris Hilton · 09-07-2010, 03:17 PM

Were you overrevving it when the valves dropped?

It's probably impossible to overrev it under power, but downshifting at too high a speed will always do it.

Yaris Hilton · 09-07-2010, 03:20 PM

Oh, one more thing. The light reciprocating weight of the valve train in these engines is an advantage, allowing less valve spring pressure. Increase the spring pressure and you increase wear on the lifters, cam lobes and valve seats.

Bluevitz-rs · 09-07-2010, 07:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Yaris Hilton

Oh, one more thing. The light reciprocating weight of the valve train in these engines is an advantage, allowing less valve spring pressure. Increase the spring pressure and you increase wear on the lifters, cam lobes and valve seats.

Not to mention the increase of friction and loss of efficiency.

N3misiS · 09-14-2010, 04:31 AM

Thanks for the tip Guys! I will get you the picture ASAP, I cant find the bloody cable....... The Piston is here at work........

Keep checking here!

eTiMaGo · 09-14-2010, 05:39 AM

and it's an economy engine, not sure Toyota had much interest in increasing parts costs by using two springs :D

N3misiS · 09-15-2010, 03:05 AM

100905_192623.jpg

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100905_192642.jpg

100905_192650.jpg

anexrx7 · 09-15-2010, 06:35 PM

It looks as if one of the valve guides broke, those domes are so smashed up, its going to be a lot of work. What got fed through to the rest of the cylinders? Is there damage on the others or is that just debris falling from the first one? I don't know what kind of high revving you do for how long, but you might want to look for another platform if thats what you like to do?

Higher tension springs may help from floating, but considering that it will close hard after that point, it will likely break a valve still and the head isn't likely designed to hold something like that.

N3misiS · 09-16-2010, 10:35 AM

I do not do High revving at all.... and also I figured this happened already then hit everything to pieces, its just pieces of metal in the other cylinders, but no damage.

I hear you about the better springs, but maybe I will cut cams, bigger valves, better springs, forged pistons, and get is done with.

I am getting a new Motor so I will have a spare I will fix and play with, perfect for boost....

N3misiS · 09-16-2010, 10:37 AM

One more : what should be the highest, safest revs anyway? without starting to chow the motor, it does have a limiter though....

N3misiS · 10-28-2010, 07:38 AM

Hi Guys,

I need some advice, i have a replacement motor for mine that went bust, a 1KR-Fe, but this motor comes from an aoutomatic and mines manual, everything looks the same, all of it, only 3 things I can see changes, the Flyweel, thats obvius, and I do have this part, so its cool, than the coil packs, the auto has a connection for 2 points, mine has 4, I have the coil packs to, and lastly the Throttle Body, the pin connection is diffrent as well, but once again, I have that,

My question is what other diffrances may there be on the motor, everything else looks identical...

Some advice would be apreciated!!!

Regards

yaris-me · 10-28-2010, 11:42 AM

The engine itself should be identical. The automatic would need more information from the engine than manual, so there will be more sensors, like to the throttle body and ignition.

ilikerice · 10-28-2010, 11:54 AM

Quote:

what should be the highest, safest revs anyway? without starting to chow the motor, it does have a limiter though....

personally, id go get dyno graph and see where the hp drops or flat lines at that RPM.. i would shift as soon as it begins to drop. when it flatlines i usually try to see where my rpm is when i shift to the next gear. then i make the decision on how much i should wait before shifting. if you know what i mean.. i never had a car that made more hp in the redline. unless u do an engine swap of course. then the redline on the guage cluster is irrevelant.. also most engines have a point where they just dont make any more hp. finnd that sweet spot and stick with it.

N3misiS · 10-29-2010, 02:42 AM

I totally agree, I need to chek these things...

N3misiS · 10-29-2010, 02:44 AM

Well, there is less sensors on the ignition, only 2 pins, my old one has 4,
the throttle has more thoug......

N3misiS · 11-09-2010, 03:13 AM

Hi Guys, I got the new Engine, and we installed it efortlessly,

Now, the motor is not storting at all, it is turning, there is oil presure, all is good, but no Spark....

Now we mesured that there is + and Gnd all over n o fuses bust, ECU test OK.

Now the motor is an import, so I calld my dealer, and they have had the same issues, the problem is the Timing Gear on the crank, if that gear is only a few degrees out, it wont start, and what we found is the Coil Pack is not getting signal, Toyta said we much change the timing gear, and so I have my old one, the CAM timing is the same, we chacked that.

Question is how do I remove the gear??

i cant find any Service Manual for the 1KRFE, If anyone know where I can find one PLZ!!!!!!!

N3misiS · 11-15-2010, 04:35 AM

Problem Found!

My new motor is installed and it is working, its smooth, no knoks, feuling is on the dot!!!
The problem was this bugger (see Image.

The teeth are completly diffrent, this one is the one that does not work, the motor does not start at all.

The one now in only has one space where the teeth are flat, or the pickup is.

I hope this expiernce helps someone with the same issue and not to be an idiot an

valve or 7 becasue of over reving........

P.S.

The guys on this forum dont chat to much, or give feedback....
Would be nice to know others opinions ect.

09-07-2010, 07:59 AM	#1
N3misiS View User's Garage Drives: Yaris T1 1KRFE Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: South Africa Posts: 90	Valve's broken. Hi Guys, Been a while, I need some advice, Recently 5 days ago I dropped 2 exhaust valves in Cyl no 3 on a 1krfe motor 1000Cc, and it got messed up real good, so I decided to get a motor, a new second hand one. Now apon striping the motor I noticed they are using single valve springs, if you ask me in this day and age its pretty sucky for Toyota to do so, I would have expected double valve springs, I will insert the photo's in to the forum of how the head and piston looks like....Its a mes. Do you guys think it will help getting Double valve springs and replacing the original? Theoretically the motor will rev higher and be more stable with less or no valve bounce at higher RPM. But what I want to know is will it help that I don't drop 2 Exhaust valves again? Thanks guys! __________________ --------------------------------------------------- “Do or do not... there is no try.”

09-14-2010, 04:31 AM	#6
N3misiS View User's Garage Drives: Yaris T1 1KRFE Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: South Africa Posts: 90	Thanks for the tip Guys! I will get you the picture ASAP, I cant find the bloody cable....... The Piston is here at work........ Keep checking here! __________________ --------------------------------------------------- “Do or do not... there is no try.”

09-14-2010, 05:39 AM	#7
eTiMaGo vroom vroom View User's Garage Drives: lil red 5-door Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Bangkok, Thailand Posts: 7,744	and it's an economy engine, not sure Toyota had much interest in increasing parts costs by using two springs :D __________________ The price of freedom of religion, or of speech, or of the press, is that we must put up with a good deal of rubbish. - Robert Jackson Bye bye 1NZ...

09-15-2010, 03:05 AM	#8
N3misiS View User's Garage Drives: Yaris T1 1KRFE Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: South Africa Posts: 90	PIC'S 100905_192623.jpg 100905_192632.jpg 100905_192642.jpg 100905_192650.jpg __________________ --------------------------------------------------- “Do or do not... there is no try.”

09-16-2010, 10:35 AM	#10
N3misiS View User's Garage Drives: Yaris T1 1KRFE Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: South Africa Posts: 90	RE: I do not do High revving at all.... and also I figured this happened already then hit everything to pieces, its just pieces of metal in the other cylinders, but no damage. I hear you about the better springs, but maybe I will cut cams, bigger valves, better springs, forged pistons, and get is done with. I am getting a new Motor so I will have a spare I will fix and play with, perfect for boost.... __________________ --------------------------------------------------- “Do or do not... there is no try.”

09-07-2010, 08:10 AM	#2
henry33 Drives: yaris1.33 Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: slovakia Posts: 425	post the photos i would like to see it

09-07-2010, 03:17 PM	#3
Yaris Hilton Half a Bubble Off Plumb Drives: 2009 Yaris Sedan Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Bristol, Tennessee, USA Posts: 1,593	Were you overrevving it when the valves dropped? It's probably impossible to overrev it under power, but downshifting at too high a speed will always do it.

09-07-2010, 03:20 PM	#4
Yaris Hilton Half a Bubble Off Plumb Drives: 2009 Yaris Sedan Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Bristol, Tennessee, USA Posts: 1,593	Oh, one more thing. The light reciprocating weight of the valve train in these engines is an advantage, allowing less valve spring pressure. Increase the spring pressure and you increase wear on the lifters, cam lobes and valve seats.

09-15-2010, 06:35 PM	#9
anexrx7 Drives: 08 MM HB Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: U.S. Posts: 31	It looks as if one of the valve guides broke, those domes are so smashed up, its going to be a lot of work. What got fed through to the rest of the cylinders? Is there damage on the others or is that just debris falling from the first one? I don't know what kind of high revving you do for how long, but you might want to look for another platform if thats what you like to do? Higher tension springs may help from floating, but considering that it will close hard after that point, it will likely break a valve still and the head isn't likely designed to hold something like that.

09-16-2010, 10:37 AM	#11
N3misiS View User's Garage Drives: Yaris T1 1KRFE Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: South Africa Posts: 90	One more : what should be the highest, safest revs anyway? without starting to chow the motor, it does have a limiter though.... __________________ --------------------------------------------------- “Do or do not... there is no try.”

10-28-2010, 07:38 AM	#12
N3misiS View User's Garage Drives: Yaris T1 1KRFE Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: South Africa Posts: 90	Advice !!!! Hi Guys, I need some advice, i have a replacement motor for mine that went bust, a 1KR-Fe, but this motor comes from an aoutomatic and mines manual, everything looks the same, all of it, only 3 things I can see changes, the Flyweel, thats obvius, and I do have this part, so its cool, than the coil packs, the auto has a connection for 2 points, mine has 4, I have the coil packs to, and lastly the Throttle Body, the pin connection is diffrent as well, but once again, I have that, My question is what other diffrances may there be on the motor, everything else looks identical... Some advice would be apreciated!!! Regards __________________ --------------------------------------------------- “Do or do not... there is no try.”

10-28-2010, 11:42 AM	#13
yaris-me Learn to Relax Drives: 2007, Meteorite, LB Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Anaheim, CA Posts: 2,070	The engine itself should be identical. The automatic would need more information from the engine than manual, so there will be more sensors, like to the throttle body and ignition.

10-29-2010, 02:42 AM	#15
N3misiS View User's Garage Drives: Yaris T1 1KRFE Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: South Africa Posts: 90	@ ilikerice I totally agree, I need to chek these things... __________________ --------------------------------------------------- “Do or do not... there is no try.”

10-29-2010, 02:44 AM	#16
N3misiS View User's Garage Drives: Yaris T1 1KRFE Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: South Africa Posts: 90	@ yaris-me Well, there is less sensors on the ignition, only 2 pins, my old one has 4, the throttle has more thoug...... __________________ --------------------------------------------------- “Do or do not... there is no try.”

11-09-2010, 03:13 AM	#17
N3misiS View User's Garage Drives: Yaris T1 1KRFE Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: South Africa Posts: 90	New Engine!!!! Hi Guys, I got the new Engine, and we installed it efortlessly, Now, the motor is not storting at all, it is turning, there is oil presure, all is good, but no Spark.... Now we mesured that there is + and Gnd all over n o fuses bust, ECU test OK. Now the motor is an import, so I calld my dealer, and they have had the same issues, the problem is the Timing Gear on the crank, if that gear is only a few degrees out, it wont start, and what we found is the Coil Pack is not getting signal, Toyta said we much change the timing gear, and so I have my old one, the CAM timing is the same, we chacked that. Question is how do I remove the gear?? i cant find any Service Manual for the 1KRFE, If anyone know where I can find one PLZ!!!!!!! __________________ --------------------------------------------------- “Do or do not... there is no try.”

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