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Old 12-29-2012, 10:38 AM   #1
chaditotx
 
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Strut mount (bearing) cause camber to be off?

Just curious... I do know that the cap that went on top of the bearing got boogered a little when I was installing my springs. -1.5 camber on drivers side only. I guess this would be a good question for the auto x guys.
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Old 12-29-2012, 01:38 PM   #2
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What is the camber per side in front? Common practice among autocrossers is to shift the subframe to the side where you want more camber, or opposite the side you want less camber. You can even gain some caster by pulling it toward the front of the car. Unfortunately, most alignment shops will look at you with a blank stare if you requested this.

Further, camber will move around a couple tenths of a degree once you sit in the vehicle. It's best to sit in the car during an alignment but business insurance usually prevents that, so be sure to have the tech finalize the alignment with himself(herself) in the driver's seat. A couple tenths higher on the LF vs. RF isn't a bad thing either since it is going to be the heaviest corner.
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Old 12-29-2012, 05:48 PM   #3
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Did you load the suspension up before you tightened all the bolts down? There is a touch of wiggle in the strut that you can get some extra or lose some camber.
Ideally you want to match the neg camber on both sides so if the cap is really damaged just buy a replacement they are fairly cheap you can get a side for like $25 from rockauto.
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Old 12-29-2012, 08:40 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chaditotx View Post
Just curious... I do know that the cap that went on top of the bearing got boogered a little when I was installing my springs. -1.5 camber on drivers side only. I guess this would be a good question for the auto x guys.
-1.5° camber is a far ways out of spec. What is the passenger side at? If you have the print-out that would help. Basically if you have more than 0.5° difference side to side you will notice a lead (unless caster cancels it out).
Define "boogered" as well.

Cheers.
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Old 01-27-2013, 02:58 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CoryM View Post
-1.5° camber is a far ways out of spec. What is the passenger side at? If you have the print-out that would help. Basically if you have more than 0.5° difference side to side you will notice a lead (unless caster cancels it out).
Define "boogered" as well.

Cheers.
-1.5 drivers side, -8 passenger side. I have Sportline springs and 7" wide 17" rims, 38 offset. Last time it was aligned, it was fine. I just put tokico's on and replaced the strut bearings on both sides. Still same on camber. Starting to think stock control arm bushings are a little too stretched out on drivers side?
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Old 01-28-2013, 01:20 PM   #6
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For that amount it is probably just the free-play in the strut to knuckle bolts. Loosen the two bolts on the passenger side, then push inwards on the strut. It should tilt in, giving you more negative camber on the passenger side. Since you are lowered etc I assume you won't mind a little more negative camber than stock. This can also be done at the alignment shop, but most places likely won't do it as part of a regular alignment (I do if I think it is required).

It is a good idea to always push in on both sides when you do struts. This way you *should* have even camber side to side.

Cheers.

PS: make sure that the weight is off the strut when you loosen the bolts. Otherwise you won't be able to move it. Should be jacked under the frame/body
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Old 01-28-2013, 02:11 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CoryM View Post
For that amount it is probably just the free-play in the strut to knuckle bolts. Loosen the two bolts on the passenger side, then push inwards on the strut. It should tilt in, giving you more negative camber on the passenger side. Since you are lowered etc I assume you won't mind a little more negative camber than stock. This can also be done at the alignment shop, but most places likely won't do it as part of a regular alignment (I do if I think it is required).

It is a good idea to always push in on both sides when you do struts. This way you *should* have even camber side to side.

Cheers.

PS: make sure that the weight is off the strut when you loosen the bolts. Otherwise you won't be able to move it. Should be jacked under the frame/body

^^^ This
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Old 01-28-2013, 02:55 PM   #8
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Load the driver side strut using a jack prior to tightening
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Old 07-01-2013, 03:01 PM   #9
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UPDATE.... alignment issues were caused by control arm bushings which were replaced at Toyota during recall on bolts.
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Old 07-02-2013, 02:19 AM   #10
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What did they had done with lower control arm bushing? Those bolts had nothing to do with it.
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