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Old 10-28-2018, 01:28 PM   #217
tmontague
 
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You need to pop up the retaining clip which you did and then you need to take a small needle (I used a sewing needle) and push down on the pin you want out.

I cannot remember which way or really explain it well but I practised for weeks on mine before I actually did the swap.

Once you get it you'll understand. But bottom line is you need to use a small pin to actually push the prong down that also holds the pin in. So there are 2 things that hold the pin in, not just the main retaining clip on the connector
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Old 10-28-2018, 02:51 PM   #218
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tmontague View Post
You need to pop up the retaining clip which you did and then you need to take a small needle (I used a sewing needle) and push down on the pin you want out.

I cannot remember which way or really explain it well but I practised for weeks on mine before I actually did the swap.

Once you get it you'll understand. But bottom line is you need to use a small pin to actually push the prong down that also holds the pin in. So there are 2 things that hold the pin in, not just the main retaining clip on the connector
Thanks Trevor! I didn't have much luck with the pin. I'm guessing, as you say, practice is the key. After all my toils getting them out, I actually took one out that wasn't the right one, lol. I ended up with a pink, white/black stripe and a brown. The brown was wrong, so I went back and got the black one.

Would I be correct in assuming that inserting the pins only requires that the retaining clip is in the up position? Also, I'm pretty sure that the flat part of the pin goes in facing down. I'd sure hate to get these in and have to try to remove them again, lol.

Here is the harness I made. I gave myself a little extra length so I could route where I want when I install it. I think this sucker would operate under water with no shorts. It's seriously soldered, heat shrinked, taped, split loom and taped again!

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Old 10-28-2018, 04:31 PM   #219
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Bummer...Mini Add-A-Circuit

Guess I need a Edit: non-micro" add-a-circuit. Learning more and more by the day... haha.



Not all bad news. I'm about to connect the speed sensor wires to the fuse box connector. Just have to confirm correct wire placement.



Here is the ground wire added to the transmission plug. The blue wire going to pin location 10 is cut and an eyelet is added and it is bolted to the block.

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Old 10-28-2018, 05:23 PM   #220
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Technically a non micro fuse tap works (that's what I used in my under dash wiring) however if you use it in the fuse box under the hood it will not allow you to close the lid all the way. It will still work temporarily however and it will give you an idea if you wired everything properly

And yes the pins can be inserted with only the main retaining clip opened, its removing them where you have to deal with the secondary retaining system
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Old 10-28-2018, 06:28 PM   #221
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tmontague View Post
Technically a non micro fuse tap works (that's what I used in my under dash wiring) however if you use it in the fuse box under the hood it will not allow you to close the lid all the way. It will still work temporarily however and it will give you an idea if you wired everything properly

And yes the pins can be inserted with only the main retaining clip opened, its removing them where you have to deal with the secondary retaining system
Thanks Trevor! Great idea. I will check my wiring with what I have. In the meantime, I will search for a micro add-a-circuit.
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Old 10-28-2018, 09:07 PM   #222
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Heater Hoses Installed

These hoses both needed a few inches cut off of them. I do not know which one is the inlet and which one is the outlet. The rearmost hose would attach without kinking but it was touching the firewall and with the engine moving back and forth, I thought it prudent to shorten it so that it doesn't rub.

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Old 10-28-2018, 09:08 PM   #223
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Looking good! I also used a non-micro add-a-circuit. It helps to clear the other fuses in the engine fuse box. Trevor is correct about the interior fuse box though, you won't be able to reuse the cover once you install one there....but the only reason to install these inside is for gauges or displays.
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Old 10-28-2018, 10:43 PM   #224
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Little Red Cap Game...Anyone want to play?



Here are my guesses:

1) fuel line?

2) no idea what this is where this one goes to. It is built into a unit with an electrical connector if that helps.

3) brake booster? (this tubing traces back to the intake manifold)

4) goes to intake tube attached to airbox?

I do seem to have a couple of hoses left over from the Yaris but they don't seem fit on this engine.

Also, I got my radiator and upper brace back on. There is no way the Yaris radiator hose clamps will go on the Corolla water pump outlet. I had the clamp tabs touching and it would not go over the tube lip. I had it lubed with silicone, wiggles, twisted...no go! I think I'll actually pick up a new lower rad hose and clamp from the dealership.

Lastly, and Trevor maybe you can help me out with this. I did attach my A/C line to the compressor and there's a bit of strain on the rubber part of the hose. I recall you saying that you bent the tubing. Can you elaborate on that a bit for me please? Did you bend the longer, upper part of the aluminum tubing down, or the lower curled part near the compressor upwards? Or neither.
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Last edited by 06YarisRS; 10-29-2018 at 10:12 AM.
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Old 10-29-2018, 05:40 AM   #225
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I'll have to look at my engine to see where those red capped tube openings go. Iirc number 4 goes directly to a port on the intake tube before the throttle body.

In regards to the a/c, I bent the lower part near the compressor. I dont remember which was but enough where the rubber part was no longer rubbing against anything and there was less strain on it. I put it in a vice to bend
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Old 10-29-2018, 06:20 AM   #226
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tmontague View Post
I'll have to look at my engine to see where those red capped tube openings go. Iirc number 4 goes directly to a port on the intake tube before the throttle body.

In regards to the a/c, I bent the lower part near the compressor. I dont remember which was but enough where the rubber part was no longer rubbing against anything and there was less strain on it. I put it in a vice to bend
Thanks Trevor! That would be awesome!
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Old 10-29-2018, 06:22 AM   #227
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Could you guys have a look at post #219? I just want to verify that the wiring looks ok, especially the last pic - that I just added - of the blue ground wire which comes from pin 10.

Thanks!
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Old 10-29-2018, 06:27 AM   #228
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From what u remember that appears to be the correct spots. However, I'd need to go through the threads to confirm
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Old 10-29-2018, 09:32 AM   #229
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Quote:
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From what u remember that appears to be the correct spots. However, I'd need to go through the threads to confirm
Yeah, I think it's right. I think I did what Tom said to do as per brushforhire's thread. Just wanted to be sure. Thanks Trevor.
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Old 10-29-2018, 11:21 AM   #230
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1. looks like fuel - trace it toward the engine, should run along the side of the cyl. head and up to the fuel rail.
2. purge solenoid - should have an electrical connector just above (power to sol'd) and a tube will run to the firewall to the NON-fuel supply line from the fuel tank; can follow the pair of hard lines under the car rearward. This vents the fuel canister I believe.
3. no idea? I don't have a rear line like that, unless the Corolla(sedan) has heater lines different than the I'm. Maybe run back to the block and see where it comes from?
4. valve cover vent - as Trevor noted does to a nipple on the intake tube a few inches before your throttle body.

Sorry, on phone, so short and probably type-o filled.. lol

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Old 10-29-2018, 12:18 PM   #231
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Quote:
Originally Posted by atomic_hoji View Post
1. looks like fuel - trace it toward the engine, should run along the side of the cyl. head and up to the fuel rail.
2. purge solenoid - should have an electrical connector just above (power to sol'd) and a tube will run to the firewall to the NON-fuel supply line from the fuel tank; can follow the pair of hard lines under the car rearward. This vents the fuel canister I believe.
3. no idea? I don't have a rear line like that, unless the Corolla(sedan) has heater lines different than the I'm. Maybe run back to the block and see where it comes from?
4. valve cover vent - as Trevor noted does to a nipple on the intake tube a few inches before your throttle body.

Sorry, on phone, so short and probably type-o filled.. lol

-- Adam
"Type-o-filled" - like most of my posts.

Thanks for the explanations! I should have recongized #2 as I changed out the purge solenoid and NVLD pump on my Grand Caravan...duh! Haha.

#3 goes to the connector on the intake manifold; the one that I couldn't find the hose for, but was sitting right next to it. LOL! I think this is where the brake booster gets its vacuum from. Again, I think it connects to that long hose that is held up under the wiper tray and goes to the brake booster.

Getting excited for 'start-up day'!

Then, it's exhaust work and then finally A/C.
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Old 10-29-2018, 04:01 PM   #232
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Quote:
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#1 - You will need to remove the metal connector on the fuel line in the center of this picture. You will need a special fuel line tool to get it off, like this :(skip to 5:00 mark)

https://youtu.be/JFUmQF82GW0

#2 - yes, purge hose that goes to evap metal pipe on firewall (regular hose barb, not fuel line barb)

#3 - yes, brake booster

#4 - yes, to intake boot

post #219 looks good as well
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Old 10-29-2018, 05:48 PM   #233
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ArmstrongRacing View Post
#1 - You will need to remove the metal connector on the fuel line in the center of this picture. You will need a special fuel line tool to get it off, like this :(skip to 5:00 mark)

https://youtu.be/JFUmQF82GW0

#2 - yes, purge hose that goes to evap metal pipe on firewall (regular hose barb, not fuel line barb)

#3 - yes, brake booster

#4 - yes, to intake boot

post #219 looks good as well
Thanks very much Tom! Re: fuel line connector. After reading your post, I thought, "Hey, I'll just get my dremel tool out and carefully grind away until I can carefully remove the connector without damaging the fuel line". Then I thought, "Well, maybe not such a great idea as it is a FUEL line"! That could make a quick end to this project! I will find the tool.

Just got the lower rad hose on. The clamp was a bear as the tabs had bent over. Got them bent back in the vice and the clamp is now on nice and tight. Tonight the airbox goes in and all tubing attached. Time permitting, oil, ATF and coolant will be 'added'.

I feel a start attempt is imminent. I'm tempted to start it without the exhaust attached but that is probably not advisable. Regardless, before the first start, I'll be querying you guys. Thanks very much again.
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Last edited by 06YarisRS; 10-29-2018 at 06:26 PM.
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Old 10-29-2018, 08:44 PM   #234
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Hell, give it a go, I ran mine with open headers :D

Great job so far
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