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01-21-2009, 07:20 PM | #1 |
Drives: 2009 Honda Civic Sedan SI Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: New Hampshire
Posts: 54
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Cool, I appreciate it. I think at this point I shall wait until it warms up above freezing. I nearly got frostbite on my fingers when I did this a few weeks ago... I will live with the light for now.
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02-25-2009, 11:40 PM | #2 |
Drives: 2014 Yaris 3-Door Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Kalamazoo, MI
Posts: 33
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Ok, so on a new project, I should use 130 ohm resistors, correct?
I have a bunch of 20 guage wire. Is that ok to use? CTScott...how did you figure this shit out? I have been working in the parts department of car dealers for the last 10 years and, from the things I've seen over the years, you never want to cut the factory wire harness. I will definitely leave enough wire where I can reconnect the SOB, but it still scares the crap out of me. It will be worth it to get rid of the cursed light, though. |
02-25-2009, 11:58 PM | #3 | |
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Drives: 09 5dr LB, 2x 08 3dr LB Join Date: Oct 2008
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Quote:
Cutting into factory harnesses can be dangerous if you don't know what you are doing. I design more complex systems for a living, so I enjoy reverse engineering automotive systems. |
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02-26-2009, 04:41 PM | #4 | |
Drives: 2014 Yaris 3-Door Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Kalamazoo, MI
Posts: 33
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Quote:
Thanks for the info. Hooking it up as soon as we get a weekend above freezing and I can stand to be out in the garage for a while. |
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03-17-2009, 08:09 PM | #5 |
Drives: 2014 Yaris 3-Door Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Kalamazoo, MI
Posts: 33
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Just curious, if I'm not putting in a switch and don't care if I ever enable the system again, can I just cut and connect the wires to the resistor package instead of using tap splices?
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03-17-2009, 08:24 PM | #6 | |
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Quote:
I wrote it up with use of the tap splices keeping in mind that many people are not comfortable soldering under the dash (and in relatively close proximity to the passenger air bag). |
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03-17-2009, 09:15 PM | #7 |
SIPNDEW
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thats what i did and it works fine, i even removed both TPMS modules, one under the dash and one in the paneling behind the trunk. theres a good .02 lbs and weight saved!
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03-17-2009, 09:07 PM | #8 |
Drives: 2014 Yaris 3-Door Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Kalamazoo, MI
Posts: 33
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So, just using butt connectors not a good idea (uh huh huh huh...I said "butt" huh huh)?
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03-17-2009, 09:28 PM | #9 |
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03-17-2009, 09:18 PM | #10 |
Drives: 2014 Yaris 3-Door Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Kalamazoo, MI
Posts: 33
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Funny about the weight savings!
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03-23-2009, 04:57 AM | #11 |
Drives: 09 Yaris 3 Dr White LB Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: PA
Posts: 432
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When doing this will there still be an OBDII code? I ask because to pass emissions in PA you can't have any OBDII codes.
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03-23-2009, 07:47 AM | #12 |
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The TPWS does not report codes over OBDII, so you should be fine. It's data is accessible over the CAN bus, but a Toyota specific communication tool is required to access the data.
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04-13-2009, 05:55 PM | #13 |
Metsu
Drives: NCP91 ; E36 Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Calgary
Posts: 154
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Does every yaris have it? I have the base with no AC 08. Any way to verify before I start looking for the module?
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05-19-2009, 05:17 PM | #14 |
アキバ製
Drives: 09' White LB, Celica GTS Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Honolulu, HI
Posts: 524
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Ok so to get rid of it without a switch all you have to do it start off with the light not on, turn off the car, unplug the thing, and cut the green and brown wire and connect them to eachother, and leave the harness unplugged?
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05-19-2009, 05:39 PM | #15 |
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Drives: 09 5dr LB, 2x 08 3dr LB Join Date: Oct 2008
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Jump to post 45 and you'll see the resistor voltage divider. You need to make one of those up. Clipping the wires turned out to not work.
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05-19-2009, 05:21 PM | #16 |
Drives: 07 Blazing Blue LB Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Honolulu, Hawaii
Posts: 692
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no i think u gotta put resisters in between?
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05-20-2009, 03:56 AM | #17 |
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Drives: 09' White LB, Celica GTS Join Date: Apr 2009
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Ok i think ill just put a switch in it.
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05-20-2009, 07:34 AM | #18 |
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Just to clarify; adding the switch doesn't really make it any easier. If you want to do it without the switch, you build the voltage divider shown below (from page 3 of this thread). You unplug the TPWS connector (and leave it disconnected) and connect the red wire to the red wire show below, the black wire to the white wire shown below, and you connect the green wire to the brown wire below. The switch method is just for people who run two sets of rims with one of the two sets still having the sensors installed. |
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