Oil Pressure problem... Suspecting Turbo issue - Toyota Yaris Forums

Parmas · 12-07-2010, 02:12 PM

First of all I am suspecting on turbo because I am seeing sostantial amount of oil at the compressor outlet ( the outlet that goes to the intercooler piping to the engine). If I clean the oil and rev the engine while idle till 4K rpm no oil seem to spit. If I go for a street run and push it on boost I will see oil traces into the compressor outlet.

I bought an oil pressure gauge and fitted temporarly between the oil IN of the turbo and the turbo fitting itself. Started the engine and got 15psi increasing to a stop at 40psi (Please note the engine and oil are cold). Throttle up the gas till 4K will give me about 3 psi more making 43psi. I let the engine idle and the pressure slowly decreases to 19 psi. I didn't let the engine more idle to check if it goes lower to protect it.

I am suspecting that when the turbo is heating up, it is causing a slow leak. The more the turbo heats up the higher the leak and the lower the pressure goes.

I made a video for you to review.... Note the slow pressure increase? Is this normal increasing that slowly or not?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A3M0kUTRBkk

Btw I am using Torco SR1 10/40 oil, compatable with turbo chargers. http://www.torcousa.com/torco_product/sr-1.html

Bluevitz-rs · 12-07-2010, 02:34 PM

Is the gauge reading after the oil restrictor going to the turbo or before? At the block, I get about 85-95 PSI when the engine is cold at 4000 RPM, and around 68-72 when hot.

rob323 · 12-07-2010, 03:05 PM

Refresh my memory, what turbo?
Is there oil in the inlet before the compressor housing?

Parmas · 12-07-2010, 03:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bluevitz-rs

Is the gauge reading after the oil restrictor going to the turbo or before? At the block, I get about 85-95 PSI when the engine is cold at 4000 RPM, and around 68-72 when hot.

The gauge is fixed on a T-style between oil going to turbo and turbo itself.

95 psi?? I am not reading a quarter of it!

Parmas · 12-07-2010, 03:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rob323

Refresh my memory, what turbo?
Is there oil in the inlet before the compressor housing?

Turbo is a Garrett GT2860 Ball Bearing watercooled turbo (Nissan Skyline stock turbo)
Part No 466541-700
OE - 14411-69F00
Model - FL0258J

I didn't checked the air inlet of the turbo but the compressor outlet is sure leaking under boost.

rob323 · 12-07-2010, 03:45 PM

Take some oil pressure readings from the block, make sure the pressure there is as it should be first. Then find out what oil pressure those turbos from on Skylines and put a restrictor in the line to try and achieve that.
If you have a breather line from the rocker cover back into the intake before the turbo, put a clear plastic fuel filter in that to see if the oil is from blowby and coming into the system that way.

Parmas · 12-08-2010, 01:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rob323

Take some oil pressure readings from the block, make sure the pressure there is as it should be first. Then find out what oil pressure those turbos from on Skylines and put a restrictor in the line to try and achieve that.
If you have a breather line from the rocker cover back into the intake before the turbo, put a clear plastic fuel filter in that to see if the oil is from blowby and coming into the system that way.

I don't think there should be much difference of pressure readout if I screw the oil fitting directly to the block.. Considering bluevitz-rs readings I am way far low than normal.

The engine do not breath into the intake. The rocker cover holes are directly venting to the air ( at least for now )

I have to mention aswell that from the beginning I installed the engine into the car I had the "Oil pressure" warning light on the dash switching on about instantly. The stock/dash sensor is reading at a T-style fitting tapped at the front of the block going then to the turbo (Where I put the oil Pressure gauge)

Does toyota mention the safe Oil pressure range of the 1NZFE somewhere?

rob323 · 12-08-2010, 04:56 PM

As per the manual (but it doesn't say where abouts to take the readings from):
At idle speed - 29kPa (4.3psi) or more.
At 3000 rpm - 150-550 kPa (22-80 psi)

With oil pressure allowed to be that low at idle, I'm not surprised your oil light is coming on. I'd be shimming the relief valve a bit to help bring that pressure up a little (not an easy job though).

Parmas · 12-09-2010, 11:55 AM

Do you have a link to this manual page?

4.3psi at idle seems too low considering mine is 19psi when hot.

22-80psi is a wide range still I am within limits of oil pressure.

I will try the gauge directly to the block if the same reading is seen I have to remove and check the turbo damn!

Btw I have a sadwich adapter with 4 holes. 2 of them are used for pressure and temperature but the sensors are not reading good because of some issues. If I connect the oil pressure gauge to the adapter will it show me the real oil pressure there or with the block is more effective?

Parmas · 12-09-2010, 02:40 PM

Here is a pic of the fittings that goes to the turbo.

Fittings used are X style fitting, Custom fitting for the oil sender sensor and a blank for one of the openings.

Tomorrow I will buy new fittings and re-setup the fittings to include the oil pressure gauge.

rob323 · 12-09-2010, 03:28 PM

Here you go, found the diagnostic part of the manual which tells you a little more.

I agree that the tolerance range given is scarily wide

.

Parmas · 12-11-2010, 04:29 PM

Oil pressure solved by changing T plate fitting and connecting oil pressure gauge to the vicinity to the block outlet. Now marking 90 psi cold and 60 psi hot

Also arranged oil light by replacing the oil sender unit.

Preparing for the next engine tune :)

Bluevitz-rs · 12-11-2010, 05:22 PM

so the "T" was the problem?

Parmas · 12-12-2010, 11:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bluevitz-rs

so the "T" was the problem?

The fitting was not in good condition but I can't say for sure that was the issue. At the same time I fixed the oil pressure gauge fitting and replaced the sender unit altogether and worked fine.

Btw to replace that fitting I needed to remove intake + throttle body + water piping + disconnecting vaccum lines etc so I needed to make all things right the first time.

Bluevitz-rs · 12-12-2010, 12:37 PM

You could have just removed the starter and worked from underneath. It only took me 10 mins to install the oil fitting for the turbo and my oil pressure gauge that way.

rob323 · 12-12-2010, 04:55 PM

That's good news Parmas, now that you have that sorted, you still have to work out your oil in the intake problem :)

Parmas · 12-13-2010, 04:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rob323

That's good news Parmas, now that you have that sorted, you still have to work out your oil in the intake problem :)

That has to be the turbo oil drain blocked a bit or else the turbo needs repair.

Since I have limited access to the drain fitting, to check this I need to remove the turbo which I am really not in the mood of doing this.

Although, as long as oil pressure and boost pressue are reading fine it's fine for me for now.

12-07-2010, 02:12 PM	#1
Parmas Drives: Vitz RS Turbo Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: ML Posts: 576	Oil Pressure problem... Suspecting Turbo issue First of all I am suspecting on turbo because I am seeing sostantial amount of oil at the compressor outlet ( the outlet that goes to the intercooler piping to the engine). If I clean the oil and rev the engine while idle till 4K rpm no oil seem to spit. If I go for a street run and push it on boost I will see oil traces into the compressor outlet. I bought an oil pressure gauge and fitted temporarly between the oil IN of the turbo and the turbo fitting itself. Started the engine and got 15psi increasing to a stop at 40psi (Please note the engine and oil are cold). Throttle up the gas till 4K will give me about 3 psi more making 43psi. I let the engine idle and the pressure slowly decreases to 19 psi. I didn't let the engine more idle to check if it goes lower to protect it. I am suspecting that when the turbo is heating up, it is causing a slow leak. The more the turbo heats up the higher the leak and the lower the pressure goes. I made a video for you to review.... Note the slow pressure increase? Is this normal increasing that slowly or not? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A3M0kUTRBkk Btw I am using Torco SR1 10/40 oil, compatable with turbo chargers. http://www.torcousa.com/torco_product/sr-1.html

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12-07-2010, 02:34 PM	#2
Bluevitz-rs 1NZ-6spd View User's Garage Drives: '05 6-Spd Vitz RS Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Oshawa, Ontario, Canada Posts: 2,967	Is the gauge reading after the oil restrictor going to the turbo or before? At the block, I get about 85-95 PSI when the engine is cold at 4000 RPM, and around 68-72 when hot.

12-07-2010, 03:05 PM	#3
rob323 Don't drive it, RALLY it! Drives: 1999 echo PRC rally car Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Joyner, Brisbane Posts: 321	Refresh my memory, what turbo? Is there oil in the inlet before the compressor housing?

12-07-2010, 03:45 PM	#6
rob323 Don't drive it, RALLY it! Drives: 1999 echo PRC rally car Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Joyner, Brisbane Posts: 321	Take some oil pressure readings from the block, make sure the pressure there is as it should be first. Then find out what oil pressure those turbos from on Skylines and put a restrictor in the line to try and achieve that. If you have a breather line from the rocker cover back into the intake before the turbo, put a clear plastic fuel filter in that to see if the oil is from blowby and coming into the system that way.

12-08-2010, 04:56 PM	#8
rob323 Don't drive it, RALLY it! Drives: 1999 echo PRC rally car Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Joyner, Brisbane Posts: 321	As per the manual (but it doesn't say where abouts to take the readings from): At idle speed - 29kPa (4.3psi) or more. At 3000 rpm - 150-550 kPa (22-80 psi) With oil pressure allowed to be that low at idle, I'm not surprised your oil light is coming on. I'd be shimming the relief valve a bit to help bring that pressure up a little (not an easy job though).

12-09-2010, 11:55 AM	#9
Parmas Drives: Vitz RS Turbo Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: ML Posts: 576	Do you have a link to this manual page? 4.3psi at idle seems too low considering mine is 19psi when hot. 22-80psi is a wide range still I am within limits of oil pressure. I will try the gauge directly to the block if the same reading is seen I have to remove and check the turbo damn! Btw I have a sadwich adapter with 4 holes. 2 of them are used for pressure and temperature but the sensors are not reading good because of some issues. If I connect the oil pressure gauge to the adapter will it show me the real oil pressure there or with the block is more effective?

12-11-2010, 04:29 PM	#12
Parmas Drives: Vitz RS Turbo Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: ML Posts: 576	Oil pressure solved by changing T plate fitting and connecting oil pressure gauge to the vicinity to the block outlet. Now marking 90 psi cold and 60 psi hot Also arranged oil light by replacing the oil sender unit. Preparing for the next engine tune :)

12-11-2010, 05:22 PM	#13
Bluevitz-rs 1NZ-6spd View User's Garage Drives: '05 6-Spd Vitz RS Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Oshawa, Ontario, Canada Posts: 2,967	so the "T" was the problem?

12-12-2010, 12:37 PM	#15
Bluevitz-rs 1NZ-6spd View User's Garage Drives: '05 6-Spd Vitz RS Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Oshawa, Ontario, Canada Posts: 2,967	You could have just removed the starter and worked from underneath. It only took me 10 mins to install the oil fitting for the turbo and my oil pressure gauge that way.

12-12-2010, 04:55 PM	#16
rob323 Don't drive it, RALLY it! Drives: 1999 echo PRC rally car Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Joyner, Brisbane Posts: 321	That's good news Parmas, now that you have that sorted, you still have to work out your oil in the intake problem :)