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07-23-2010, 12:41 AM | #19 |
Drives: 2007 Yaris LB Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: San Jose, CA, USA
Posts: 685
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My $.02: my car sits in the garage which gets quite warm because of the water heater and lack of ventilation. Whenever I start the car I move it out of the garage right away (okay maybe it takes me 5 seconds to shift into reverse and start moving) because I wouldn't want to die from CO poisoning in the garage.
Having said that, I would say waiting 30 seconds, alright, but a few minutes? No way. As the first article from my previous post shows, warming the engine for a few minutes does more harm than good, so obviously, it shouldn't be done.
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07-23-2010, 02:32 AM | #20 | |
Quote:
With Modern engines the materials, material quality, component design, manufacturing tolerances, surface finishes of components as well as the technology in methods of manufacturing the above have improved over the last 35 years (to use your '76 MG for example). Add to that the addition of emission control components and it all adds up to a different method for how to treat your cars engine and emission controls. "Driving normally" for the first few minutes is the new "sit in the driveway and idle". BTW, All of the cars I've bought within the last 10 years have recommended this. Waiting a minute or two isn't going to hurt anything, I never claimed it would, and by all means do it if that's what makes you happy. But it isn't saving your engine and it isn't necessary unless you plan on leaving your driveway like an F-1 driver. To go to extremes, there are quite a few differences between these two engines besides a few computers and fuel injection (and 100 years). Last edited by Stove; 07-23-2010 at 02:43 AM. |
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07-23-2010, 12:28 PM | #21 |
Drives: '09 Yaris carmine red 2d HB Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Middletown, NY
Posts: 1,501
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First you have to define "normally"
A bit of clearification on my position. I concede that a long warm up is not nessary. What I am against is starting the engine and "taking off" imediately. I'm just saying let it warm up for a short bit, 30-60 seconds or so depending on the temp. I do think its time to bury this horse. |
01-21-2011, 08:12 PM | #22 |
Drives: 2007 Yaris S Sedan Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Jacksonville,FL
Posts: 4
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My car will not shift into 4th
OK,
My car will not shift into 4th upon a cool start!! It's fine once warmed up but I don't have time to wait around, I'm busy. I have had my car 4 years since it was a baby. Only 2 miles when I bought it. Now I Have 59,000 miles. It just started doing this recently???? They told me this is how the car was designed ,but it just started recently!!! I'm not buying this explanation. I wouldn't have bought the car if it did this!!!! Anyone else notice this over time?? |
01-22-2011, 02:21 AM | #23 | |
Quote:
But, I wouldn't get to worried about it, and don't think it's a reason to regret buying the car IMO. It's just doing what it's designed to do. I'm pretty sure if you check your manual, it spells out what happens with the car and what you are supposed to do when the low temp light is on.
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01-22-2011, 12:36 PM | #24 |
Drives: Toyota Will Vi Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: UK
Posts: 9
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I've noticed that the transmission will not change into top gear until the 'cold engine' light has gone out.
In the recent very cold spell, it would wait for much longer, even after the light had gone out. Looking at the transmission fluid temperature, that was taking much longer to warm up than in warmer weather. I believe the 4th gear lockout is tied to the transmission fluid temperature and not directly to the 'cold engine' light. That is, it will change into 4th gear once both the engine is warm, and the transmission is also warm. If either are not warmed up enough, it'll lock out 4th gear. The best way to warm any car up is to drive it. As stated, most engine wear happens at start up. But it isn't (as the informercials would have us believe) due to lack of oil. It's the water and acid condensates from a cold engine that are the culprits. Think about this: idling a cold engine takes longer to warm it up than simply driving the car. In that period the engine is exposed to more harmful condensates, blow-by, etc etc. than if you just got in it and drove. |
01-22-2011, 02:36 PM | #25 | |
Drives: Yaris Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Michigan
Posts: 199
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Quote:
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01-22-2011, 03:50 PM | #26 |
DWEED
Drives: 3DR 2008 Metorite Metalic Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Arizona
Posts: 1,161
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The Yaris warms up faster than any other car that I have owned.
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Making a decision without following it with an action is still a fantasy. |
01-22-2011, 07:55 PM | #27 |
Drives: Yaris HB Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Central Alabama, GOD BLESS AMERICA
Posts: 755
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So... according to that article (Should I let my car warm up each morning), repeated idle warm-up can plug/clog/fuck up the catalytic converter, causing a drop in MPG over time.
I have a slight drop in MPG after four winter seasons with the Yaris; I usually just start up and drive away, but on days with snow, ice or rime covering the windows, I start it up, turn the heater to max, and let the engine idle while I clear the windows of winter juice. So my question will be: is there a simple way to clean out such gunk from the catalytic converter? Like pouring a bottle of some slime down the gas tank? |
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