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Old 09-13-2009, 04:57 PM   #1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IllusionX View Post
UHHHH..... digging old thread up...same go's here!
Going to change to "Amsoil Synthetic Manual Transmission and Transaxle Gear Lube 75W-90 API GL-4 (MTG)" after 7000 miles on the odometer. I have ground way too many gears from lack of pressing the clutch in all the way. I will feel better about getting the original gear lube out of the tranny.
I don't have a 24mm socket but the 15/16 I have fits well. The conversion is 24mm = 15.118/16 inch. Should I use my 15/16, or go buy a 24mm?
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Old 09-13-2009, 05:21 PM   #2
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I bet a good 24mm socket would be worth having. All my tools are with my Karts, leaving me with standard tools(and few of um), really like having metric around.

Doin the same with my car soon..., only 14k on it though. AX might be beating it up some though. Sooner the better I guess.
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Old 09-20-2009, 02:18 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andaconda View Post
I don't have a 24mm socket but the 15/16 I have fits well. The conversion is 24mm = 15.118/16 inch. Should I use my 15/16, or go buy a 24mm?
I used a 15/16" (6 point impact type) socket today when changing over to synthetic. It fit just fine.
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Old 10-17-2009, 10:15 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andaconda View Post
Going to change to "Amsoil Synthetic Manual Transmission and Transaxle Gear Lube 75W-90 API GL-4 (MTG)" after 7000 miles on the odometer. I have ground way too many gears from lack of pressing the clutch in all the way. I will feel better about getting the original gear lube out of the tranny.
I don't have a 24mm socket but the 15/16 I have fits well. The conversion is 24mm = 15.118/16 inch. Should I use my 15/16, or go buy a 24mm?
Followup:
I did the change to Amsoil.

A couple of tips tho:

I jacked up the drivers side of the car so that I could get to both plugs easier - but while I was draining, I let the car down off the jack, and then jacked it back up again to finish the job.

I did use my 15/16 socket with no problem.

Have the pan ready - I mean really ready - when I pulled out the filler plug, it came gushing out and missed my pan by a mile -- like all over the frame members, all over the jack, all over the driveway -- So be ready for it!

Have a helper on top with the fill funnel while you hold the fill tube in the fill hole -- you don't want to waste a precious drop of this expensive gear lube.

Don't over tighten the plugs. They're not that tight - 29 foot pounds.

Now I can't honestly tell any difference, but the cold weather hasn't come yet and I don't have but a couple of miles on it.
But at least I know it is changed out and I feel better about it.

My kid has been ribbing me about this switch from dino to synthetic. He said "you'll do anything to squeek one more mile per gallon, won't you!"

Last edited by andaconda; 10-17-2009 at 01:19 PM.
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Old 05-22-2009, 01:29 PM   #5
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just to clarify for those of us with auto transmissions....what you all are doing is just draining and filling the trans pan.

what supmet stated was $250 was probably a fluid exchange (flush and fill)

which takes all the fluid out including that in the torque converter.
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Old 01-02-2010, 12:31 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shroomster View Post
just to clarify for those of us with auto transmissions....what you all are doing is just draining and filling the trans pan.

what supmet stated was $250 was probably a fluid exchange (flush and fill)

which takes all the fluid out including that in the torque converter.
Agreed, however I'm looking at Mitchell On Demand as I type, and it says the automatic transmission fluid capacity is 2.6 quarts, or 2.5 liters... Compaired to that of which another member above replaced 4 quarts.

It just struck me when I saw the capacity vs. what someone else put into the car after a drain. Figured I'd mention the spec..

The manual trans is 2.0 quarts or 1.9 liters.

And to get to my actual point here, I'm wondering how you guys like the Royal Purple? I've heard mixed reviews... I must confess, I'm actually a Volkswagen guy (My girlfriend owns the Yaris) and people weren't too impressed with it in the 6 speed GLI's which is what I have. And I want a REALLY good synthetic for the Yaris (5 spd) because I noticed it has no syncro for reverse, and sometimes when you put it in reverse (yes, with the car stopped) it gives a quick sharp grind and kinda lurches the car slightly. Can't be good... And I don't want metal shaivings causing havoc. So what do you think is the best synthetic trans fluid out there? Thanks guys!

/rant lol

Last edited by Boost Addicted; 01-02-2010 at 02:27 PM.
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Old 04-26-2011, 11:34 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shroomster View Post
just to clarify for those of us with auto transmissions....what you all are doing is just draining and filling the trans pan.

what supmet stated was $250 was probably a fluid exchange (flush and fill)

which takes all the fluid out including that in the torque converter.
What about the manual transmissions? is there more oil left in the transmission when we drain and fill? This one guy was trying to sell me a $200 transmission fluid flush and fill.

Does anyone know?
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Old 02-10-2016, 12:36 PM   #8
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Can transmission fluid just be added at the dipstick entry for auto?

Hi -

I have a 2009 5-door hatchback Yaris.

Thanks for the great DIY instructions and photos - so helpful.

Can I just add the Toyota transmission fluid there? Do I have to drain it? If so, can I drain it from the bottom, the same way as the manual?

Thanks so much!
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Old 05-22-2009, 09:10 PM   #9
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this clearly states manual transmisison...
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Old 05-22-2009, 10:02 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by IllusionX View Post
this clearly states manual transmisison...
yeah and for some odd reason a few posts up someone was questioning this topic for their auto tranny. sorry for the mis-confusion
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Old 09-21-2009, 05:56 PM   #11
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I made the switch to Redline MT90 a month ago-big difference-I have not missed a shift since it's that smooth. MPG's seem to stay in the mid-to high 40's now rather than the lower 40's before. Very much worth the $24 for two quarts of the stuff. I tried Mobil 1 gear lube at first-but learned that is a GL-5 and although that's ok according to Toyota it was not prefered as GL-4 was-so I through $18 away on some mobile 1 by mistake. Very happy with the Redline MT90 in the Yaris.
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Old 09-22-2009, 09:28 PM   #12
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What makes that oil purple? Purple dinosaurs? Food coloring?
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Old 09-22-2009, 09:42 PM   #13
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http://www.royalpurple.com/rp-company-history.html
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Old 09-22-2009, 10:43 PM   #14
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I know....snails!
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Old 09-22-2009, 11:01 PM   #15
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apparently you cant read.
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Old 09-23-2009, 05:25 AM   #16
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They said its purple because its the color of royalty. But they didnt say how they made it that way.
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Old 09-25-2009, 11:36 PM   #17
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Royal Purple is average stuff at best. Read the technical reviews.
Redline MT-90 is top notch stuff. This is a 15 minute job at worst if you have the right tools. You will notice smoother shifting and that grinding while going into reverse will all but disappear. Its a no brainer especially if you drive 25k miles a year like I do.
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Old 07-18-2015, 02:46 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by Henry G. View Post
Royal Purple is average stuff at best. Read the technical reviews.
Redline MT-90 is top notch stuff. This is a 15 minute job at worst if you have the right tools. You will notice smoother shifting and that grinding while going into reverse will all but disappear. Its a no brainer especially if you drive 25k miles a year like I do.
If your grinding while shifting into reverse. Learn from your mistakes. Put the car into first gear then shift it in reverse. Grinding is due to the driver most of the time.

Have patience with your car and it will drive smoother.
This was to inform all on how to reduce grinding when shifting into reverse.

This was written respectfully as possible.
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