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Old 03-24-2007, 02:37 AM   #19
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Well, today I went outside and took all of my clothes off and built a bonfire. I began chanting in something that sounded to be of a West African origin, but nobody could really tell. After about an hour I realized I cannot drive rain clouds away by speaking to trees and went back inside.

58 and partly cloudy this Sunday.
I have to admit.

Thats one of the best posts I've seen on this forum.

On that note... if I feel a loss of stopping power with the rim upgrade, now I know where to go, and how ridiculously easy it is on this car, wow!

89 lesabre: rusty PITA
99 monte carlo: easier, but not this easy (dangling caliper)
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Old 03-24-2007, 09:40 AM   #20
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So when are we going to see that rear disc brake conversion? Oh yeah, that's my job... and that is coming up soon, currently hunting on parts that will work :)
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Old 03-24-2007, 10:36 AM   #21
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Back in my Neon days I upgraded the pads to Performance Friction Carbon Metallic pads. I seriously could not believe what a difference brake pads alone made.

Since there was a small debate I figured I would chime in.

I do not loosen the bleeder screw when I compress the piston. When I compress the piston I do it with the old pad in place instead of contacting the piston with the clamp.

I don't remove the mater cyl. lid either.

I have done this on ABS and non ABS systems.
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Old 03-24-2007, 10:38 AM   #22
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Also, rear disc brakes weight a bit more than drums so thats something to think of when trying to assemble a disc brake rear.
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Old 03-24-2007, 06:40 PM   #23
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Also, rear disc brakes weight a bit more than drums so thats something to think of when trying to assemble a disc brake rear.
Great minds think alike- I just pointed that out in another thread.
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Old 03-25-2007, 09:53 PM   #24
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Other than looks I dont see why rear disks are really needed. The front brakes do 75% or more of the stopping power. Once you apply the brakes the rears dont have very much weight on them due to the weight transfer to the front.
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Old 03-26-2007, 07:52 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by acrbill View Post
Also, rear disc brakes weight a bit more than drums so thats something to think of when trying to assemble a disc brake rear.
Sorry but this is not true. This is true when you have a drum vs a rotor, but with all the pads and hardware and caliper, the drum actually weighs less. Just my two cents.
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Old 03-26-2007, 06:48 PM   #26
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Sorry but this is not true. This is true when you have a drum vs a rotor, but with all the pads and hardware and caliper, the drum actually weighs less. Just my two cents.
Uhhhhhh, you just agreed with us.
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Old 03-26-2007, 07:04 PM   #27
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I was wondering about that myself.

Now that I have had some time to drive on the new pads, let me just say WOW. I have a lot of friends that are anti-seatbelt (I haven't driven my Yaris without wearing one, thanks buzzer) and sometimes they rebel against the alarm and wait it out. Drives me nuts. Now when one of them does it I can send them flying through the windshield.

There is a winding road with a steep (50+ degrees) grade about 10 miles from my house and I was out there today, so I figured what the hell. I struggled up it in second gear so I could turn around and see what these pads were really made of. I came into the section going about 35-40, which is pretty damn quick for what was facing me. As I was coming down I was able to ride out in third with light braking and hold 35 MPH until the last bend, which is extremely sharp. First of all, I was able to really sink into it despite the grade. If I could heel-toe in this car (size 14 shoes don't get along with Toyota's pedal placement) I could have dove into the turn even more, but even knowing I only had a half a second to rev match before downshifting to second I still was able to scare myself a little entering it... all because I knew I had teriffic pads to back me up. I gradually came down hard on the brakes and wouldn't you know it, wheel lock! I had so much headroom too. If my tires weren't stock, I could have really torn that section apart. Stay tuned for some lightweight 15's and 225's this summer. If I was four years younger I probably would have had a date with a guard rail, but I quickly released the brakes and continued on. It brought me from 35 MPH to 15 MPH in two blinks, down a 50+ degree grade on some seriously cashed out rubber. These pads are unbelievable.

I would estimate these cut a good 10-15 feet off of my 60-0 distance as compared to brand new OEM pads. As compared to my old pads in the condition they were in (which was great for 15,000 miles, but I do a lot of engine braking) you could probably double that... I'd estimate 20-30 feet shorter stops. It could even be more... that is a conservative estimate. I will eventually update the first post with some more concrete information, but it has to wait until I can get some other Yarii to play with. For now, just trust me when I say that these pads are awesome. They are as quiet as OEM, but the stopping power they afford the driver is far beyond what comes with the car stock. At 2300 pounds, these pads will do more for this car than any other FWD car. I can't think of one that weighs less!

I know a lot of you are getting to the point where it is time to change those pads. If you are, there is absolutely no reason not to pick a set of these up and DIY. Easy install, fair price, and better-than-OEM stopping power on stock rotors. Its a no brainer... think about it, it could save your life or your ride! How many times has 5 or 10 feet been the difference between a safe stop and a new front end?

That goes double for you autocrossers! Get these on your ride for the summer and get used to the added stopping power before your next event and watch those ticks melt away.

Also, keep in mind Dezod sells custom rotors for the low price of $210 for the front pair. You can get these cross-drilled, slotted, or both... your choice. For $270 then you can get all the brakes you'd ever need in a car like the Yaris. The rotors are definitely on my list of must-buys.

GREAT product Paul! You guys claim that these will "help you stop obscenely fast" and you're right! DEZOD PADS FTW.
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Old 03-26-2007, 07:24 PM   #28
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If I could heel-toe in this car (size 14 shoes don't get along with Toyota's pedal placement)
I'm not a size 14 but a size 12 and i know what you mean...

Yesterday i installed a set of Razo aftermarket pedals and I can tell you that the height diff between the brake and the gas pedal was reduce a little... also the new pedals are much wider and give a much comfortable feeling.

I haven't try any heel n toe yet but I bet it will be muuch easier now.


Back on topic... nice review on the Dezod pads. But some 60-0 numbers will be nice! not that we don't trust your words... but give us some numbers!

Given that it is such an easy install and you haven't throw away the OEM pads
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Old 03-26-2007, 07:30 PM   #29
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I'll explain this one more time.

My tires are bald, so me trying to get a before-and-after 60-0 is pointless. My tires are so bad I could lock the wheels with the OEM pads at the right speed (definitely at 60 MPH), it just didn't take place as soon as with the Dezod pads. The numbers I'd get now would be totally off. If I'm going to go through the trouble of doing a Car-and-Driver-style test on these pads, I'm not going to bother until I have all of the other issues worked out.

Also, I offed the stock pads to a needy member. They aren't gone yet, but they will be in the next few days.

Numbers will come the next time I am in Toledo. I fully plan on stealing Joe's tires. Until then, can I not hear every member on the forums bitching for numbers YET AGAIN. Patience.

Pretty please?

EDIT: come to think of it, I could probably avoid the wheel lock on that hill if I just didn't bother rev matching and let the gear compression aid in slowing me down a bit. Looks like I'll be back tomorrow.
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Old 03-26-2007, 07:38 PM   #30
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I fully plan on stealing Joe's tires. Until then, can I not hear every member on the forums bitching for numbers YET AGAIN. Patience.

Pretty please?
I will let you steel my 15's steelies, just waiting on spkrman to see if he will ship me his one wheel with the bad tire so I can have 4 good wheels and 4 good tires, and you can rock those till you get some real wheels and tires, and you can burn the shit out of them, that way whn winter comes I can tell my wife "hey look they are bald, how did that happen? looks like I need some new blizzaks in 205/55R15"
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Old 03-26-2007, 07:45 PM   #31
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Do you have a g-tech meter? They are super accurate when accelerating so it stands to reason that it would be just as accurate when using it for 60-0 runs.
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Old 03-26-2007, 07:52 PM   #32
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Do you have a g-tech meter? They are super accurate when accelerating so it stands to reason that it would be just as accurate when using it for 60-0 runs.
That's a cool gadget... never hear of it before.

http://www.gtechpro.com/ss.html#
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Old 03-28-2007, 11:47 AM   #33
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Originally Posted by acrbill View Post
Back in my Neon days I upgraded the pads to Performance Friction Carbon Metallic pads. I seriously could not believe what a difference brake pads alone made.

Since there was a small debate I figured I would chime in.

I do not loosen the bleeder screw when I compress the piston. When I compress the piston I do it with the old pad in place instead of contacting the piston with the clamp.

I don't remove the mater cyl. lid either.

I have done this on ABS and non ABS systems.
That is the way I did it on my E36's. Works just fine. Only need one old pad and a little C clamp. BTW, nice work Charls, if I ever decide my turd gets more than the drop it has, I'm going to put on those front pads and do some wheels. Ugh, maybe someday.
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Old 04-02-2007, 11:47 AM   #34
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So where is the 60-0 Charles? ;)
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Old 01-19-2009, 04:29 PM   #35
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i think the most important tool on this is the C clamp... i remember that day..hehehe
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Old 01-13-2010, 05:09 PM   #36
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May I ask where the brake pad DIY was moved to?. I can not find it and there is no link.
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