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Old 03-31-2017, 09:40 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by NYC-SE View Post
Checked. No.

I said I'm 97% sure its LCA bolts only because I've checked (and now dealer as well) almost everything else that I can think of. That and the fact that the LCA bolts have a reputation for causing clunking noises. There is a 24 page thread on the issue.

I hear you on the difference in feel if it is the LCA bolts but it seems that almost nobody who had the problem in the referenced thread reported handling or road feel issues, only an abnormal clunking noise.

Anyway I'll find out soon enough. Once I change them out I'll report back and see if they made any difference.
Do what u like , but honestly ppl say and always go to extreme ...That issue was with second gen Yaris I have 2007 and live in Canada and no issues ...So I say stop speculating cos if that was really the problem ur car would not be drivable ...And I know and this comes from someone that has worked at Toyota for many yrs , sure possibly is there but I doubt it.


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Old 03-31-2017, 10:01 PM   #20
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If I'm wrong I'm wrong. It wouldn't be the first time. And if I am wrong at least I will have eliminated the LCA bolts as a cause.
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Old 03-31-2017, 10:08 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by NYC-SE View Post
If I'm wrong I'm wrong. It wouldn't be the first time. And if I am wrong at least I will have eliminated the LCA bolts as a cause.
LCA bolts was.an issue way back ...And if it was still an issue there would be a recall by Toyota but I think they would have fixed this problem yrs ago .


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Old 03-31-2017, 10:19 PM   #22
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Yes definitely not the lca bolta, although changing them isn't a bad idea.

I second what exi states, likely the end links are gone if it is a clink felt over slow speed bumps.

In curious, how'd you get out of the paymentbfir the diagnostics?
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Old 03-31-2017, 10:59 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Exiwolfman View Post
LCA bolts was.an issue way back ...And if it was still an issue there would be a recall by Toyota but I think they would have fixed this problem yrs ago .
From the mega thread:
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Was working on a 2012 SE today and it looks like they still haven't corrected the problem. Loosened both bolts with my impact gun (doing alignment) and both sprayed rusty water at me. Not good.
Also latest TSB that I know of, T-SB-0078-12, is applicable to 2012 MY cars. There have been no changes to the front suspension since then, so if it can affect 2012 cars why can't it affect 2014 cars?

Please understand I am not trying to start an argument. I have already admitted the possibility that I may be wrong. I'm simply using a process of elimination and this is what I'm left with. It is a possibility, perhaps not a probability, that has not been addressed yet and it is going to cost me $14 and some time to address it. I am not invested in being right. I am invested in determining what is causing the clunk. If I'm right or if I'm wrong, either way I will have taken a step in solving the mystery.

The last 3 winters haven't been particularly bad but they salt the roads like crazy here. I mean you can preserve meat for several centuries with the amount of salt they use.
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Old 03-31-2017, 11:03 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by tmontague View Post
Yes definitely not the lca bolta, although changing them isn't a bad idea.

I second what exi states, likely the end links are gone if it is a clink felt over slow speed bumps.
I don't think its the end links and neither does the dealer.

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In curious, how'd you get out of the paymentbfir the diagnostics?
Polite, effective communication.
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Old 03-31-2017, 11:13 PM   #25
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Don't drive it ur subframe is gone fall out ....Lol
Anyhow hope u find the solution but do urself a favor stop over thinking

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Old 04-01-2017, 12:23 AM   #26
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it could also be the bearing or rubber starting to go on top of your struts. I hear a series of popping noises whenever i turned the wheel near and at max and clunks while driving those crappy port chester roads. I took apart the suspension and found that the front right strut bearing took a dump.
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Old 04-20-2017, 06:02 PM   #27
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100% sure

I swapped out the LCA bolts last week. The drivers side bolt looked OK with only a slight amount of surface rust. The passengers side, aka the side that was making the clunking noise, was in considerably worse shape. I suspected there may be a problem when I loosened the bolt and a stream of rusty water came pouring out. Not drops, a solid STREAM. I should mention that it had not rained for a week prior and that the preceding two days had a temperature of 80F. As you can see from the photo there was a significant amount of corrosion around the shaft close to the bolt head. The result of exposure to three relatively mild winters. I'm glad I caught it when I did, I would hate to see what a few more years would have brought.

Prior to installing the new LCA bolts I covered them with a thick coating of a high quality calcium sulfonate marine grade grease. Hopefully that will help to ward off future damage. Nevertheless I plan to remove and inspect them on an annual basis.

It has been 10 days since I did this and I have not had any clunking noise in that time so I think I can confidently say this was the cause. I specifically waited before posting because I wanted to be certain. Previously I would have typically had several episodes of clunking within that time frame.

So it goes without saying that this is still an issue with 3rd gen cars, regardless of what Toyota will tell you. The TSB needs to be updated and the warranty needs to be extended for 3rd gen cars as it was for the 2nd gen.

FYI for those who suspect this may be an issue with their car: The only symptom I had was the clunking noise. The car rode, handled, steered, braked fine. Everything that you could see of the front suspension looked fine too. That's the problem, the LCA bolts are hidden. If you are in a heavy salt area and you are clunking you need to check the LCA bolts.
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Old 04-20-2017, 06:03 PM   #28
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And a slight rant for good measure...

This is a known issue. Toyota has had several TSB's and warranty extensions about it. Yet when I brought the car to the dealer and specifically mentioned this issue I was basically ignored. Even after they had inspected the suspension and found nothing wrong they refused to consider the LCA bolts as a possibility. Why? I can not say for certain but I will venture a guess that there was nothing in the "system" concerning this possibility for a 2014 MY car. There are no TSB's for this MY and therefore no mention of it in any official troubleshooting guides. And if the "system" says so it must be true. Again just a guess on my part but I bet I'm not too far from the mark.

On top of that they wanted to charge me a $129 diagnostic fee. After NOT inspecting the very thing I was complaining about. For an under warranty car. One of the reasons I bought a Toyota was the hope that their high build quality would negate the need for dealership visits and having to deal with this kind of nonsense.

I am frequently appalled by the low level of competence displayed by dealership mechanics. There really is no troubleshooting anymore. It is plug in a computer and read the code. OK this code means replace this part. God forbid they plug in the computer and there's no code thrown. That means there's nothing wrong with your car. (I had a 2 1/2 year fight with VW over just this thing at one point. I KNEW what the problem was. I KNEW what the solution was. But because the car never threw a code for that problem everything was fine from their point of view.) Or customer states "problem X". Go to troubleshooting guide for "problem X". Follow it to the letter. If it isn't in the guide it isn't a possibility and it isn't going to be considered. But this is not what a mechanic's job is. A true mechanic works with his mind at least as much as he does with his hands. Troubleshooting, deductive reasoning, imagination. These are the most valuable tools of a true mechanic. 100 times more valuable than a cart full of Snap-On's finest. Sadly I see these tools used less and less nowadays. I guess I'm just an old man.
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Old 04-20-2017, 07:01 PM   #29
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Had your LCA bolt lossened itself? The reason I ask is I don't see how the rusted bolt could have caused a clunk unless it loosened, as the sleve that goes over the bolts covers much greater length than the area made smaller by the rust. Meaning the old rusted bolt still should have kept the LCA in place even with the rust seen.

At least you fixed your unknown clunk, nothing more annoying than having an unexplained noise.

I've experienced the dealership issue in the past many years ago and it seems to stem from a certain level of arrogance. It isn't partial to the car industry and is present in many other industries. I think a lot of it has to do with the vast majority of car owners having no idea what they're talking about and telling the dealership that it is something that it possibly couldn't be or something unrelated.

This likely leads them to dismiss all customers which means even ones like us on here who likely know much more about 1 specific car (Yaris) than a tech who knows how to work on all types of Toyotas. That is why when I even have to bring my car into my indy mechanic if I cannot figure something out, I tell him exactly what I have done and checked and give him an idea of what I think it likely is. Saves him time and therefore me money.

He is also very humble and willing to listen to me as he knows I know how to wrench a car, this alone is one of the reasons I go to him and only him even though I have since moved further from his shop.

I'm not surprised that Toyota didn't fix the issue, until they redesign the subframe (not likely) it will likely ocntinue to be a problem. The bolts aren't particularity rust prone or weak, it is the pooling of water that sits at the bolt neck due to a lack of drainage in the design.
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Old 04-20-2017, 09:39 PM   #30
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Yes I suspect that this bolt in particular had loosened up over time. When I went to remove it it didn't seem that tight. It was tight but didn't seem as tight as the drivers side bolt. Of course I was using a 2 foot breaker bar so who knows. It was tight enough to form a watertight seal, that I do know.

During my troubleshooting phase I never fully torqued up these bolts. I did put a wrench on them with a little bit of muscle just to see if they were obviously loose. They were not. After reading the mega LCA thread I was fearful about attempting to re-torque to full value. I was afraid I might break them. So it is possible that they were at less than recommended torque. In fact after looking at the bolt I'm sure it was. Corrosion will reduce the clamping force of a fastener. Combine that with the freezing / thawing of the water that was obviously trapped there applying a counter force acting against the already weakened clamping force, thereby further loosening the fastener over time. That's my top of my head engineering analysis anyway.

The bolt was bad but certainly not as bad as some of the other examples seen here. Knowing this now I suspect that if I would have just re-torqued it it would have stopped the clunking. Although the cross sectional area of the bolt was reduced I feel (top of my head again, I am an engineer BTW) it would have been able to supply the required clamping force to eliminate the problem. But it was bad and new is better. Glad it's over.
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Old 04-20-2017, 10:36 PM   #31
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Makes sense, when I replaced mine (before I had air tools) I almost couldn't get mine loose with a 2' breaker bar. They were in worse shape than your but that was the factory torque spec and they never seemed to loosen. I also never had a clunk like you did though.

At least it gives you piece of mind knowing that new hardware is under you car
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Old 12-12-2018, 03:05 AM   #32
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Originally Posted by NYC-SE View Post
I swapped out the LCA bolts last week. The drivers side bolt looked OK with only a slight amount of surface rust. The passengers side, aka the side that was making the clunking noise, was in considerably worse shape. I suspected there may be a problem when I loosened the bolt and a stream of rusty water came pouring out. Not drops, a solid STREAM. I should mention that it had not rained for a week prior and that the preceding two days had a temperature of 80F. As you can see from the photo there was a significant amount of corrosion around the shaft close to the bolt head. The result of exposure to three relatively mild winters. I'm glad I caught it when I did, I would hate to see what a few more years would have brought.

Prior to installing the new LCA bolts I covered them with a thick coating of a high quality calcium sulfonate marine grade grease. Hopefully that will help to ward off future damage. Nevertheless I plan to remove and inspect them on an annual basis.

It has been 10 days since I did this and I have not had any clunking noise in that time so I think I can confidently say this was the cause. I specifically waited before posting because I wanted to be certain. Previously I would have typically had several episodes of clunking within that time frame.

So it goes without saying that this is still an issue with 3rd gen cars, regardless of what Toyota will tell you. The TSB needs to be updated and the warranty needs to be extended for 3rd gen cars as it was for the 2nd gen.

FYI for those who suspect this may be an issue with their car: The only symptom I had was the clunking noise. The car rode, handled, steered, braked fine. Everything that you could see of the front suspension looked fine too. That's the problem, the LCA bolts are hidden. If you are in a heavy salt area and you are clunking you need to check the LCA bolts.


Hi i have a 3rd Gen Yaris 2014.. i have the same problem. can you provide me with the part number for the LCA bolts so i will also replace mine...
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Old 12-12-2018, 08:03 AM   #33
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Hi i have a 3rd Gen Yaris 2014.. i have the same problem. can you provide me with the part number for the LCA bolts so i will also replace mine...
I see you are in Saudi Arabia. I doubt very much that you have a corrosion issue with the LCA bolts. These were an issue in winter climates where salt and brine treatments are applied to the roads.

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Old 12-12-2018, 12:21 PM   #34
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Hi i have a 3rd Gen Yaris 2014.. i have the same problem. can you provide me with the part number for the LCA bolts so i will also replace mine...
To answer your question the part number for the LCA bolt is 90119-14151. You would need 2. BUT... as WeeYari said being in Saudi Arabia there is no way that the LCA bolts are causing your problem unless your car was used and imported from a snow area.
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Old 12-16-2018, 04:08 AM   #35
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Originally Posted by NYC-SE View Post
To answer your question the part number for the LCA bolt is 90119-14151. You would need 2. BUT... as WeeYari said being in Saudi Arabia there is no way that the LCA bolts are causing your problem unless your car was used and imported from a snow area.

Thank you for your prompt response.

This is my situation, i intermittently hear the clunking sound on the driver side suspension whenever i slow down and pass some humps... but the clunking sound wont come when the car is stationary and when i try to bounce it ( it just wont happen)...

its just so weird, this sound came after i made an under-chassis wash (was preparing for annual motor vehicle inspection and need to present my car clean and free from dirt).

the car wash shop used a high pressure spray with something like ( kerosene or diesel mix) ... i thought that was the culprit.. maybe it removed some of the pre-applied grease to some parts including the LCA bolts...

i tried to spray those areas with lithium based grease to no avail...

maybe it time to have it checked by a mechanic... its 68K KM
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Old 12-16-2018, 03:00 PM   #36
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The LCA bolts are not greased from the factory so you did not wash away any grease from them since there was none to begin with. However you may have washed grease away from some other components especially since you used kerosene. (why?) I would start with the front disc pads. Perhaps the grease on the back plate was washed away and they are rattling.
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