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Old 07-24-2009, 11:34 AM   #19
IsLNdbOi
 
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Thanks again guys. PatrickJohnson, that micro-converter is nice. I looked at the PDF manual and it says that it does 3.3V. I didn't see 3V listed. Would this still work?

I'm guessing one pin is for ground, one pin is for input voltage (the 12V from the car) and the third pin is for the output / converted voltage (3V out to the garage opener).


Edit:
Nevermind, missed a part of that PDF file on their site.
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Old 07-24-2009, 11:35 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IsLNdbOi View Post
Thanks CTScott. Do you know offhand if there are ignition switched and constant 12v power wires going to the power door locks and windows switches?

The power door locks work even when the key isn't in the car (if you're in the car and press the door lock switch when the car is off, the doors still lock / unlock). The power window switches don't though.
You can grab switched power from the gray wire on the power window master switch, constant power at the brown wire on the lock assembly, and ground at the white with a black stripe on the power window master switch. Just make sure you add a fuse from those to the opener and LED.
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Old 07-24-2009, 11:41 AM   #21
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So I add one fuse b/w the switched power and the LED and one fuse b/w the constant power and the voltage converter?

What size and type of fuse and how do I add these fuses?
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Old 07-24-2009, 11:59 AM   #22
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hmm, yes, i'd like to know too. the current draw doesn't seem to warrant a fuse... maybe i'm missing something though, CTScott is the Electrical Engineer!
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Old 07-24-2009, 12:03 PM   #23
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The window and door circuits are high power circuits. The fuses would prevent fire in the door in the event of a failure of the door opener or its wiring. I would tap the power wires mentioned and use an inline fuse. I would go with a 1 amp fuse on each.

When you tap a high current circuit, the fuse you add is not to protect the circuit you are tapping, but rather to protect what you are adding with an appropriately sized fuse for the current draw of the device / minimum gauge of wire used.
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Old 07-24-2009, 12:25 PM   #24
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So I would add one of these:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=130317075010

between the LED and the 12v switched power wire and one between the 12v constant power wire and the micro-converter?
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Old 07-24-2009, 12:52 PM   #25
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Exactly.
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Old 07-25-2009, 01:46 AM   #26
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Ok, I've decided on this switch (goes with the other black buttons for the door locks and windows):
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/6099/


The silver version of this switch:
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/1904/



has this note:
"
Note: The LED runs on 3.4V DC. You will need a resistor in the line to power the LED from either your motherboard's 5V DC output or your Power Supply's 12V DC output. You can run the LED directly off of the motherboard's 3.3V LED headers without any resistor.

We were informed that the correct resistors for the switch's LED are the following:

12 V DC source: 420 ohms
5 V DC source: 70 ohms
"

So in addition to the 1amp fuses, we need resistors too (if the black version of the switch is identical to the silver one other than color).

What type and kind of resistor would we need for this and where in the line would we put it? Would we need more than one resistor or one for each (one for the LED and one for the switch to micro-converter to garage opener)?
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Old 07-25-2009, 06:54 AM   #27
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That's strange that the two are identical except for the anodizing, and yet one is listed as having a built-in resistor and the other not. If the black one requires the resistor, it will go in line with the power supply to the LED. So, from the +12V switched power you will have the fuse, the resistor, and then the LED contact on the switch.

Only the LED needs the current limiting resistor, so you only need one.
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Old 07-27-2009, 03:12 PM   #28
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I emailed FrozenCPU about the switches. This is their reply:

"
Both versions are now the newer ones following the specs you saw on the black switch. They are all now compatible with 12V LED source and need no resistors.

Hope that helps!
"
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Old 07-27-2009, 03:24 PM   #29
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sweet. 20 buck switch for a 3 dollar mod, but i think i might get one of those.
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Old 08-04-2009, 03:10 AM   #30
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I found a nicer looking switch that matches the color of the other buttons / switches on the door and has amber / orange illumination:
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=23263

It has a 3V LED though. The battery for my garage opener is also 3V.

Since both are 3V, could I connect both to the vOut of the micro DC converter? Or would I need two of these converters (one for the LED and one for the garage opener's power)?

Also, what would I need to do to have the LED in this new switch dim with the other interior lights when I turn the dimmer dial?
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Old 08-04-2009, 06:19 AM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IsLNdbOi View Post
I found a nicer looking switch that matches the color of the other buttons / switches on the door and has amber / orange illumination:
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=23263

It has a 3V LED though. The battery for my garage opener is also 3V.

Since both are 3V, could I connect both to the vOut of the micro DC converter? Or would I need two of these converters (one for the LED and one for the garage opener's power)?

Also, what would I need to do to have the LED in this new switch dim with the other interior lights when I turn the dimmer dial?


All you would need to drive the LED off of 12V is an ~ 680ohm resistor in-line with it. With that in place, you could then connect it to the output of the dimmer rheostat to have it dim with the rest of the lights.
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Old 08-17-2009, 12:39 AM   #32
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Got the AnyVolt Micro. Was going to test it w/ a PC power supply and the garage door opener, but it turns out you need a multimeter to see what voltage the AnyVolt Micro is putting out.
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Old 10-15-2009, 06:18 PM   #33
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Actually the one I used was the $20 home depot one!

I just don't want to be reaching for a clicker, and I wanted a clean install. There are certainly other ways to do it, but this was the cleanest I could come up with. I go in and out of my garage a lot.

_____________
garage door openers las vegas
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Old 01-01-2010, 12:17 AM   #34
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I bought mine today and installed it already. The button is mounted in the same panel as the PW switches. (right below the rear window buttons)

I will do this to the other car too since I bought 2 switches.

Last edited by upgradedyaris; 01-01-2010 at 07:41 PM.
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Old 03-14-2010, 11:01 PM   #35
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Can i tap into the high beam wires my remote has a 12v battery do i need relays , resistors?? can i get power from the high beams???
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Old 03-15-2010, 09:58 AM   #36
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why dont tap at dimmer light constants 12V and add 1kohm resistor to lower the 12V to 3V input..that's what i do for my handle 3V LED
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