Stay tuned

[ROCKLANDTOYOTA]

Originally Posted by Jason@SportsCar

So I had some time to play with this some more while I had two engines sitting on the garage floor. I put both thermostats in a pan on the stove and heated them up to get open and closed lengths.

The Stant MR2 unit will fit. The only issue is the bypass will always be closed - with the stock thermostat the bypass is only closed when the thermostat is open.

So does anyone know what function the bypass has?

i just ordered a TRD thermostat through toyota that i thought was unavailable to me. should see it next week.....

[Jason@SportsCar]

Originally Posted by ROCKLANDTOYOTA

i just ordered a TRD thermostat through toyota that i thought was unavailable to me. should see it next week.....

I figured it was not worth the risk of blocking the bypass with the cheap thermostat, so I ordered the cooler one from Mishimoto. Under $60 shipped on amazon.

[cali yaris]

MMTS-TC05 is listed for newer model Corolla and Celica; is that the one you got?

61C deg = 140F deg (Mishimoto rating)
82C deg = 180F deg (Toyota OEM according to Mishimoto)

I don't see a reference to Yaris specifically.

[Jason@SportsCar]

Originally Posted by cali yaris

MMTS-TC05 is listed for newer model Corolla and Celica; is that the one you got?

61C deg = 140F deg (Mishimoto rating)
82C deg = 180F deg (Toyota OEM according to Mishimoto)

I don't see a reference to Yaris specifically.

No, MMTS-SUP-93T, its the Supra unit. I hope it is really not a 140, (perhaps a metric to English translation error on their part) that will be a little to cool. I will have to put it on the stove and test it.

[cali yaris]

^ hehe, that makes me chuckle, but it's a great way to see how it works.

[Jason@SportsCar]

Originally Posted by cali yaris

^ hehe, that makes me chuckle, but it's a great way to see how it works.

Do it when the wife is not around... They never understand car parts in their cookware.

And now I am thinking it would not be bad if it was really cold... I might be able to tape up the top grill for better aero.

[ROCKLANDTOYOTA]

conversion charts reads 140......

[Jason@SportsCar]

It's alive... Finally got around to starting it up with the new motor. Now we just need to get it back on the dyno, then out to the track.

[thebarber]

Originally Posted by Jason@SportsCar

It's alive... Finally got around to starting it up with the new motor. Now we just need to get it back on the dyno, then out to the track.

are you allowed to post dyno sheets? if you are, could you?

[Jason@SportsCar]

What should I do with this? Approx 2k miles on everything except the head and fuel injectors, which have about half that.

My plan is to keep the head, we have a lot of work in to it, and may want to revisit it later.

[Jason@SportsCar]

New parts are fun. Beatrush crank pulley. Hopefully a bit more durable than the last piece we had. Unfortunately, it's not an under drive unit, and it is a bit heavier than the last one, but if I don't have to pick up the pieces on the side of the track it will be worth it.

Stock 3lbs
Beatrush 1lb 4oz

[Jason@SportsCar]

Got a lot done this weekend... Corner weights set, alignment set, old engine torn down.

Little by little I have been working to pull more weight out of the car, purging the wiring harness, cutting more metal out of the doors. The payoff, 1814lbs with a 1/4 tank of fuel. There is not much left to drop, I have not installed the new crank pulley, and there is still some undercoating left, likely less than 5lbs total. I can't find the exact number, but I think the car has lost over 500lbs since we got it - and it didn't have interior to begin with.




And there's your problem... All season long the car has been using a little bit of water. Never enough to show up in the oil pan, and no oil was making it's way into the radiator. Turns out the coating on both sides of the head gasket had failed. Every head bolt came out with milky oil on it. We can only speculate, but we think this happen at the Runoffs last Sept, when the crank pulley failed and I had to nurse the car around the track with none of the accessories running. The temp never spiked on the gauge, but nothing was circulating in the engine. This could have gotten the head hot enough to damage the gasket.



Now this is just wacky... The old water pump, only 2k miles on it, has a crack in the impeller. No idea what would have caused that, never gave any hint that it had a problem, still worked perfect last time we ran the car.

[Jason@SportsCar]

Originally Posted by ROCKLANDTOYOTA

conversion charts reads 140......

And unfortunately as advertized it does open at 140. I had hoped that it might have been a math/conversion/marketing error, because who would need one that cold? But that was not the case. Oh well.

[markitect]

Originally Posted by Jason@SportsCar

Now this is just wacky... The old water pump, only 2k miles on it, has a crack in the impeller. No idea what would have caused that, never gave any hint that it had a problem, still worked perfect last time we ran the car.

I actually got my water pump replaced under warranty yesterday. I didn't get to take pictures but from what the technician said the crack was similar to yours, but when all the way up.

At this point the only symptom was that when you reduced the throttle there was a slight grinding noise. My guess is that it cracks in such a way that when your reducing the engine speed pressure builds up behind it causing the crack to expand, and the impeller to rub.

Mine has 32k miles on it, but I'm guessing the crack starts the same way, so suddenly lifting the pedal might be the cause, which I'm guessing you do a lot, and at high RPMs while racing.

[Jason@SportsCar]

Spent some time playing with the AEM over the last few days... The car has always been hard to start when cold, but with the new motor it would not start cold at all, I had to warm it up on the stock ecu and then swap to the AEM. So I played with the initial crank fuel trim, and now it fires right up. Should have played with that settings a long time ago.

Hitting the dyno tomorrow, we will see how strong this engine is.

Signed up for the Xtremespeed event a Willow Springs on Saturday. Will have a chance to get some miles on the new engine, and test out the new Cusco centerlock upper mount paired with stiffer springs.

[ilikerice]

oh the envy

[Jason@SportsCar]

Due to a scheduling issue we ended up tuning the car early this AM. As expected we gave up some HP going to the stock engine... But OMG, the TQ more than makes up for it.

Peak HP is now 132@5500rpm (a full 1000rpm earlier than the old motor), and at 5000rpm I have 20lb-ft more TQ than the old setup.

While it sucks to give up the HP, nearly all of it was from 6500-7300rpm, so it wont be missed that much. The TQ increase will make a big difference on the start, corner exit, and every time I shift up a gear I will no longer be waiting for the engine to get back on the cam.

This should also make life easier on all the parts, as we no longer have any reason to spin past 7k.

Comparing this chart to the original (stock engine with the Camcon), shows how close the relatively inexpensive Camcon can get this car. The AEM got us about 2hp more, 8lb-ft more TQ, and another useable 500rpm. If we did not need every bit of power I would just use a Camcon. It gets you 95% of the way there, for about $1800 less.

[thebarber]

nice!

have a dyno chart?