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Old 06-19-2013, 01:44 PM   #1
justjesus
 
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Drives: 2008 Liftback
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Wheel Bearing Replacement (FRONT)

WORK IN PROGRESS... I'll be updating this througout the day.

Tools:
- Your regular assortment of sockets, pliers, etc.. I used 17mm and 19mm more than anything
- A small sledge hammer (5lbs) - MIGHT help remove the brake rotor
- jack
- jack stand
- wheel choke (I used 3, cuz I'm all about safety)
- a socket for the axle nut.
- impact gun. If you don't own one, make friends with someone who does
(this was so valuable when I did my bearing!)
- ball joint tool like this one link to tool
- tie rod/pitman puller
- 5lb slide hammer link to slide hammer
- hub adaptor for slide hammer link to hub puller
- bungee cords (for holding the brake caliper out of the way)
- shade (i did it during a hot day so a shade is a tool!)
- WD40


You want to start by getting all the new parts you will be using. I have a second car, so I don't mind going to the store as needed. I also killed a few hours doing it this way. So get what you need now. Wheel bearing, hub, nuts, cotter pins, axle nut. Basically whatever you will need to replace, want to replace, or replace because the Repair Manual states to do so.

Tools.
I don't own all the tools above. I borrowed the impact gun from a friend. Best tool ever for a job like this. I bought the ball joint separator from Harbor Freight (I tried many other ways of removing the lower ball joint nut with no success. It's also why I got so good/fast at replacing the spindle assembly). I also bought the axle nut socket from Sears. Had I known I'd be making a visit to Toyota (for a new axle nut) I would have bought their socket as well.
Get all the tools together. Plan ahead. I rented the slide hammer, hub puller, and tie rod puller from Kragen (o'reilley) auto parts. Free tool rentals. They charge your card, but put the funds back when you return the tools. They're pretty good about doing it fast too. TIP: I like to get the tools together the night before. I ended up having to go to 4 diffrent Kragen's because none of them had all the tools at the same time!

Prep.
Spray the axle nut with WD40 the night before. I also spray it before I start gathering all my tools and parts together. It makes it much easier to remove that tough axle nut!

Disclaimer:
Now is a good time for this, I guess. PROCEED WITH CAUTIION. Read the manual thouroughly, and follow their procedure. This process is one I used, and it worked for me. I can not guarantee you will have the same results. ALWAYS wear eye protection, gloves, and any other safety equipment. If you don't have confidence in your ability to tackle the job, hire a professional.

Process:
So this is the way I did it. It worked for me. There are other ways, of course, but I don't know them? LOL

START!

- Pull your Yaris to where you are going to do the work. I used an inclined driveway (hence, why I used 3 wheel chokes) and get your shade ready.



WHOA!
- I took this pic after I removed the wheel. BEFORE YOU REMOVE THE WHEEL....
- break the axle nut loose. If you don't have a pal to hold the brakes while you do that, then this is the first thing I would do first. While the car is parked, in gear, with the e-brake firmly up, take a breaker bar (and I used the tube from my harbor freight jack as an extension for added torque) and the axle nut socket, and break that nut loose. I didn't try the impact gun for this for personal reasons. I prefer the slow break loose option. After I broke it loose, I went a few turns to make sure it can keep going.

- AFTER I broke the axle nut loose, I broke the lug nuts loose as well. Before I lifted the driver side corner up, I placed the wheel chokes on 3 tires. I lifted the car at the proper jack points, and then used a jack stand to secure the veh in the lifted position.

- Remove the wheel. you will see the brakes and shock, etc. There are two bolts holding the brake caliper to the spindle assembly, and two bolts that hold the spindle to the shock/strut (i'll just keep calling it shock moving forward)

here's a pic of where the bolts would go on the shock portion



and here's a pic of where the bolts would go for the brake caliper



What I did first, was to remove the lower bolt on the shock body. this makes it easy to remove the brake caliper bolts. After removing the two bolts holding the caliper assembly, i tucked the caliper out of the way using the bungee cords. You don't want to tear/pinch that rubber hose for the brake fluid! BE CAREFUL
here's what it looks like tucked up and away:



Next up, the disc rotor. The first time I tried pulling it off, it was stuck on there. I thought I missed a little bolt or something. I tried whacking it with a rubber mallet. I then used a 5lb sledge on it. No deal. I tried every kind of banging possible. Top, sides, from back, etc. Finally gave up and used a gizmo and some sockets to pull it off. I'm guessing a better way is to use those little bolts? I don't do brakes, so I wouldn't know! Anyway, here's a pic of how the gadget thing i used to pull off that stinking rotor



I finished removing the axle nut somewhere along the line. Forgot where, but I did use the impact gun to finish the job once it was broken loose. I'm guessing you could do it at this time. With the impact gun I used (a nice heavy duty cordless Milwaukee) it came off like fleas on a dog who...never mind. It came off easy. NO pic.

I went ahead and put the lower bolt back onto the shock at this time. I wanted to make sure it was secure for this next step. REMOVING THE HUB ASSEMBLY! Since I would be using a slide hammer to hammer that sucker out, I wanted to have it as secure as possible. BEcause I kept getting angry with not having all the proper tools the first time I tried this job, I neglected to take some pics... here's a pic of what the hub puller looks like mounted on the hub itself. It's a diagram, actually. I used to lug nuts mounted on either end of the puller, 180* apart (or 6 o'clock and 12 o'clock). And I also removed that center bolt that is sometimes used for this job. I replaced the bolt with the end of the slide hammer. The hammer screws threw the same hole, and the nut attaches on the other end. Be sure to do the hammer and puller attachment BEFORE you connect it to the hub assembly
Here's sort of what that would look like:



and with the hammer on (again, these aren't my photos, but to get an idea)



After several blows with the hammer, it moved a tiny amount. It takes a lot of force, and several blows. Once it starts moving, and you see the light at the end of the tunnel, it comes out quicker. Be careful not to stand right behind it. You wouldn't want to hammer yourself with that thing. OR, the assembly might pop out at the wrong moment and catch you asleep! (no, it didn't happen to me, promise)

There you have it. The hub has been removed.



But what now, Mr MonkeyWrenchWieldingMonkey Dude?

Like I said, in my case, I had to have a shop do the pressing for me. That being the case, I also had to remove the spindle assembly as well. Eventually, I took both the spindle assembly, the replacement hub, and bearing, to the shop to have it all pressed together. Fun stuff.

more to come...

Last edited by justjesus; 06-19-2013 at 04:49 PM.
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Old 06-24-2013, 10:21 AM   #2
fnkngrv
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how did you deal with the speed sensor? or have I missed something?
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Old 07-05-2013, 07:12 PM   #3
justjesus
 
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i saw no such thing around the wheels/brake area!
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Old 07-06-2013, 02:31 AM   #4
yariseggvvti
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by justjesus View Post
WORK IN PROGRESS... I'll be updating this througout the day.

Tools:
- Your regular assortment of sockets, pliers, etc.. I used 17mm and 19mm more than anything
- A small sledge hammer (5lbs) - MIGHT help remove the brake rotor
- jack
- jack stand
- wheel choke (I used 3, cuz I'm all about safety)
- a socket for the axle nut.
- impact gun. If you don't own one, make friends with someone who does
(this was so valuable when I did my bearing!)
- ball joint tool like this one link to tool
- tie rod/pitman puller
- 5lb slide hammer link to slide hammer
- hub adaptor for slide hammer link to hub puller
- bungee cords (for holding the brake caliper out of the way)
- shade (i did it during a hot day so a shade is a tool!)
- WD40


You want to start by getting all the new parts you will be using. I have a second car, so I don't mind going to the store as needed. I also killed a few hours doing it this way. So get what you need now. Wheel bearing, hub, nuts, cotter pins, axle nut. Basically whatever you will need to replace, want to replace, or replace because the Repair Manual states to do so.

Tools.
I don't own all the tools above. I borrowed the impact gun from a friend. Best tool ever for a job like this. I bought the ball joint separator from Harbor Freight (I tried many other ways of removing the lower ball joint nut with no success. It's also why I got so good/fast at replacing the spindle assembly). I also bought the axle nut socket from Sears. Had I known I'd be making a visit to Toyota (for a new axle nut) I would have bought their socket as well.
Get all the tools together. Plan ahead. I rented the slide hammer, hub puller, and tie rod puller from Kragen (o'reilley) auto parts. Free tool rentals. They charge your card, but put the funds back when you return the tools. They're pretty good about doing it fast too. TIP: I like to get the tools together the night before. I ended up having to go to 4 diffrent Kragen's because none of them had all the tools at the same time!

Prep.
Spray the axle nut with WD40 the night before. I also spray it before I start gathering all my tools and parts together. It makes it much easier to remove that tough axle nut!

Disclaimer:
Now is a good time for this, I guess. PROCEED WITH CAUTIION. Read the manual thouroughly, and follow their procedure. This process is one I used, and it worked for me. I can not guarantee you will have the same results. ALWAYS wear eye protection, gloves, and any other safety equipment. If you don't have confidence in your ability to tackle the job, hire a professional.

Process:
So this is the way I did it. It worked for me. There are other ways, of course, but I don't know them? LOL

START!

- Pull your Yaris to where you are going to do the work. I used an inclined driveway (hence, why I used 3 wheel chokes) and get your shade ready.



WHOA!
- I took this pic after I removed the wheel. BEFORE YOU REMOVE THE WHEEL....
- break the axle nut loose. If you don't have a pal to hold the brakes while you do that, then this is the first thing I would do first. While the car is parked, in gear, with the e-brake firmly up, take a breaker bar (and I used the tube from my harbor freight jack as an extension for added torque) and the axle nut socket, and break that nut loose. I didn't try the impact gun for this for personal reasons. I prefer the slow break loose option. After I broke it loose, I went a few turns to make sure it can keep going.

- AFTER I broke the axle nut loose, I broke the lug nuts loose as well. Before I lifted the driver side corner up, I placed the wheel chokes on 3 tires. I lifted the car at the proper jack points, and then used a jack stand to secure the veh in the lifted position.

- Remove the wheel. you will see the brakes and shock, etc. There are two bolts holding the brake caliper to the spindle assembly, and two bolts that hold the spindle to the shock/strut (i'll just keep calling it shock moving forward)

here's a pic of where the bolts would go on the shock portion



and here's a pic of where the bolts would go for the brake caliper



What I did first, was to remove the lower bolt on the shock body. this makes it easy to remove the brake caliper bolts. After removing the two bolts holding the caliper assembly, i tucked the caliper out of the way using the bungee cords. You don't want to tear/pinch that rubber hose for the brake fluid! BE CAREFUL
here's what it looks like tucked up and away:



Next up, the disc rotor. The first time I tried pulling it off, it was stuck on there. I thought I missed a little bolt or something. I tried whacking it with a rubber mallet. I then used a 5lb sledge on it. No deal. I tried every kind of banging possible. Top, sides, from back, etc. Finally gave up and used a gizmo and some sockets to pull it off. I'm guessing a better way is to use those little bolts? I don't do brakes, so I wouldn't know! Anyway, here's a pic of how the gadget thing i used to pull off that stinking rotor



I finished removing the axle nut somewhere along the line. Forgot where, but I did use the impact gun to finish the job once it was broken loose. I'm guessing you could do it at this time. With the impact gun I used (a nice heavy duty cordless Milwaukee) it came off like fleas on a dog who...never mind. It came off easy. NO pic.

I went ahead and put the lower bolt back onto the shock at this time. I wanted to make sure it was secure for this next step. REMOVING THE HUB ASSEMBLY! Since I would be using a slide hammer to hammer that sucker out, I wanted to have it as secure as possible. BEcause I kept getting angry with not having all the proper tools the first time I tried this job, I neglected to take some pics... here's a pic of what the hub puller looks like mounted on the hub itself. It's a diagram, actually. I used to lug nuts mounted on either end of the puller, 180* apart (or 6 o'clock and 12 o'clock). And I also removed that center bolt that is sometimes used for this job. I replaced the bolt with the end of the slide hammer. The hammer screws threw the same hole, and the nut attaches on the other end. Be sure to do the hammer and puller attachment BEFORE you connect it to the hub assembly
Here's sort of what that would look like:



and with the hammer on (again, these aren't my photos, but to get an idea)



After several blows with the hammer, it moved a tiny amount. It takes a lot of force, and several blows. Once it starts moving, and you see the light at the end of the tunnel, it comes out quicker. Be careful not to stand right behind it. You wouldn't want to hammer yourself with that thing. OR, the assembly might pop out at the wrong moment and catch you asleep! (no, it didn't happen to me, promise)

There you have it. The hub has been removed.



But what now, Mr MonkeyWrenchWieldingMonkey Dude?

Like I said, in my case, I had to have a shop do the pressing for me. That being the case, I also had to remove the spindle assembly as well. Eventually, I took both the spindle assembly, the replacement hub, and bearing, to the shop to have it all pressed together. Fun stuff.

more to come...
How many miles on your Yaris? I just hit 80k now.
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Old 07-06-2013, 08:47 PM   #5
nookandcrannycar
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yariseggvvti View Post
How many miles on your Yaris? I just hit 80k now.
I'm curious as well. I had to have this done at 110k..and it definitely was the correct diagnosis (loud...then quiet after the repair).
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Old 07-18-2013, 08:24 PM   #6
justjesus
 
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My yaris is at 80k now. Although, it happend at about 8 months ago. So, i'd guess around 70k.

Yeah, I always told people it sounded like what a big 4x4 with big tires sounds like. I couldn't really "feel" anything wrong with the car.
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Old 07-18-2013, 09:39 PM   #7
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Did you replace it with a Timken bearing or the same make that failed?
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Old 07-19-2013, 04:54 PM   #8
justjesus
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bairjo View Post
Did you replace it with a Timken bearing or the same make that failed?
I used a different bearing than before, this one being an SFK bearing from the local Pep Boys auto store
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Old 07-19-2013, 11:23 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by justjesus View Post
My yaris is at 80k now. Although, it happend at about 8 months ago. So, i'd guess around 70k.

Yeah, I always told people it sounded like what a big 4x4 with big tires sounds like. I couldn't really "feel" anything wrong with the car.
Wow. Good to know that you were able to get around OC and squeeze out another 10k miles while being able to hear the old bearings.
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Old 07-20-2013, 08:18 AM   #10
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sorry, but no. I didn't go 10k miles more on a bad bearing. Misunderstanding.

I went maybe 2 months, about 2500 miles, before replacing it. It's just that 8 months went by before i posted the pics!
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Old 07-20-2013, 08:36 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by justjesus View Post
sorry, but no. I didn't go 10k miles more on a bad bearing. Misunderstanding.

I went maybe 2 months, about 2500 miles, before replacing it. It's just that 8 months went by before i posted the pics!
Gotcha. Thanks for clarifying.
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Old 04-26-2014, 07:38 PM   #12
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I don't mean to threadjack, but I just replaced both front bearings on my 2009 and have some additional details to add.

First thing is before the axle nut is broken it should be unstaked. In my case I was able to use a strong bladed screw driver to pry on the staked nut. Be careful not to damage the threads on the axle. I'm not sure if threads would be damaged if the nut was still staked but to be safe pry it up anyway.


The next step is to lift the car and get the wheels off.

Next I removed the two bolts holding the brake caliper bracket to the steering knuckle and didn't bother removing the caliper from the bracket. I had just re-lubed my caliper sliders so if you haven't it might be a good time to make sure they are still in good shape.

http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/att...1&d=1398555173

Next I removed the tie-rod end by removing the cotter pin and then using an impact wrench to remove the castle nut. Because the cotter pin was so rusty I had the break both of the splits off the end and then hammer on a socket over top to break the cotter pin. Hopefully your car isn't as rusty as mine and you can just pull your cotter pin out. After the castle nut is off take a hand sledge or heavy hammer and hit the knuckle. This shocks the connection and should allow the tie rod end to fall out of the knuckle.

http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/att...1&d=1398555173

Next I completely removed the axle nut and put a piece of wood over the spindle and hit it loose of the hub.


Next I removed the abs sensor with a 10mm socket and worked my way around the sensor to remove the rust that had essentially welded the flange of the sensor to my steering knuckle. Be gentle so you don't damage the sensor. This may take a minute. After it is free of rust and has some play in it, you should be able to pry it out gently.

http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/att...1&d=1398555173

Next I hammered off my rotor with a three pound hand sledge. While not ideal, this worked for me. You may wish to find bolts that fit the threads on the rotor and push the rotor off the hub.

Next I removed the pin from the lower ball joint castle nut and then used a box wrench to remove the castle nut. The nut won't completely thread off and your wrench will be stuck between the ball joint knuckle and the cv boot. This is fine, you just have to now break the lower ball joint loose. This was kind of tough. I ended up putting a jack on the hub and loading the suspension while hitting the knuckle with my hand sledge. Eventually this should shock the tapered joint loose.

http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/att...1&d=1398555173

Next remove the two bolts attached to the strut. Now you should be able to wiggle everything apart. You may need a pry bar to pull the rest of the ball joint out of it's knuckle.

After the steering knuckle was out, I soaked the inside with pb blaster of the knuckle where the snap ring is and left it lug studs down over night. This may have helped release some rust and make the snap ring removal easier.

Next take it to someone with a press and have them press in a new bearing.
If you have abs make sure to figure out which side of the bearing is magnetic. I picked up a new snap ring for my left side, because they were in bad shape. The magnetic side goes towards the inside and will sit next to the wheel speed sensor. If you have a friend like mine, you will tell him to put the black side (magnetic side may be a different color on your bearing) of the bearing towards the inside. He will do this on one side and then when you bring him the other side, you figure he will remember which side goes towards the inside. Of course, your assumption was wrong and he presses it in the wrong way. Now you will have an abs light and no abs (more on this later).

http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/att...&d=1398555173+

Installation is much easier as you don't have to remove any ball and socket joints. However I had a little bit of trouble with keeping the ball from spinning in the socket of my tie rod end. To remedy this take a pry bar and pry the tie rod away from the knuckle while at the same time threading the castle nut tighter. This pressure on the ball and socket joint should keep it from spinning and allow you to tighten the nut. You may also run into this problem with the lower ball joint and use the same technique to get that nut on. I will attach a picture of the disassembled view of the front suspension from the manual titled "driveshaft.pdf" off of micro image's site. From this you will be able to figure out the torque specs for the suspension components. The only one I couldn't get to was the lower ball joint which I just tightened until snug. You may be able to put the steering knuckle on the lower ball joint only (without the CV in the hub) and load the ball joint enough to fit a socket and toque wrench in.

Also remember to stake your NEW axle nut. This makes sure the nut doesn't back off and ruin your bearing or your day. I used a large bladed screw driver and a mallet.

http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/att...1&d=1398555173

Since my abs is now disabled and I don't want to complain to the friend who pressed the bearing in, I will most likely be redoing this side during the summer when I have access to a press. Unlucky for me, but lucky for YW as I will add a write up on that process too. Who knows... I didn't have abs in my previous car and didn't mind. If I get too lazy to re-do the bearing then I will have fun next winter left foot braking around corners (just kidding).

Here is an assortment of tools I used. There are may be a couple others (torque wrench, etc) that I misssed. You want to make sure that you have a 12 point 30mm socket as the six point doesn't seem to fit at all.

http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/att...1&d=1398555173


Hope this was helpful.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg BallJoingKnuckle.jpg (349.2 KB, 500 views)
File Type: jpg brakeBolts.jpg (318.5 KB, 486 views)
File Type: jpg pryBar.jpg (299.7 KB, 415 views)
File Type: jpg speedSensor.jpg (362.1 KB, 475 views)
File Type: jpg staking.jpg (361.3 KB, 469 views)
File Type: jpeg 6pt.jpeg (552.9 KB, 411 views)
File Type: jpg absLight.jpg (244.8 KB, 460 views)
File Type: jpg jack.jpg (519.5 KB, 411 views)
File Type: jpg tieRodEndKnuckle.jpg (358.6 KB, 469 views)
File Type: jpg tools.jpg (352.2 KB, 443 views)
File Type: png YarisDriveShaftAssembly.png (133.3 KB, 413 views)

Last edited by GrayYaris; 04-26-2014 at 08:00 PM. Reason: adding manual page
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