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Old 06-16-2017, 05:55 PM   #55
tmontague
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No issues with the xd cables as they are longer. You can use the Yaris cables with the Yaris dogbone (i originally did) but because I want a long tube header I wanted more room at the fire wall so I installed the xd dogbone. This moves the engine forward more which than stresses one of the Yaris cables. Xd ones have no issues
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Old 06-16-2017, 10:41 PM   #56
CrankyOldMan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by heeroyuy01195 View Post
Have you had any issues with the "under hood" SSK and the xD cables?
The engine bay SSK is starting to wear on my setup after about 5 or 6 years. I've only greased it once or twice, so that is probably a contributing factor. The cable length isn't perfect, but it fits well enough with the SSK bracket.
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Old 06-16-2017, 11:18 PM   #57
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Thanks for the info montague and cranky, saw that Garm has a few SSK's for sale on his ebay store but wasn't sure how it would play with the swap later on. Looks like I'll be picking up one of his kits; my NST never felt right.
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Old 06-16-2017, 11:22 PM   #58
tmontague
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It probably never felt right because they never made a bracket to replace the one bracket that bolts to the trans and hold the cable ends.

Garm is the only person I know of who has/had them and they change the angle that the cable where it attaches to the shift levers and makes for smoother shifting
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2zr swapped Vios, oil catch can, TRD rear sway bar, MI lowering springs, In cabin+under hood SSK, TRD shift knob, HID projector/Halo lights, 10mm rear axle spacers, custom header back exhaust, Front splitter, Sickspeed dual horns, Tokiko Blue's in rear, triple gauges, Whiteline bushings, Sparco pedal covers, Viper Keyless entry, DC Sports CAI, NST u/d crank pulley, solid poly engine mounts, MR Racing Flywheel, Konig Dial Ins 15x7 +35, Hawk HPS pads
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Old 08-03-2017, 04:36 PM   #59
tmontague
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slight update:

I got back from a week long vacation and went on a short trip around the corner to find my car making a loud whistle form the engine bay when at idle. Checked the engine bay and found out that the polyethylene hose I used to plumb my dual catch cans ended up disintegrating, causing a vacuum leak which was the source of the whistle.

I looked online for oil resistance of various hose materials since finding 3/8" ID oil resistant rubber hose around here isn't as easy as I thought. Turns out PVC is oil resistant. The reason I didn't go with PVC braided line the first time was because the PE line was much more rigid than the PVC and I didn't want it to collapse under vacuum at idle.

Turns out the vacuum isn't strong enough to collapse the PVC braided hose and it is much easier to work with when running lines. Engine sounds good and is back to normal function as are my catch cans. When I removed the intake manifold I still had a slight amount of oil in it but my intake valves and chambers were extremely clean for an engine with 95k km on it thanks to my constant WOT pulls. I am collecting about 1-2 ounces of oil every 3-4k km or so.

My long term fuel trims still constantly sits at -10-12% meaning the ECU is reading that I am running rich and it is pulling fuel. Not a big deal as this is not nearly enough to trip an engine code but it is something to note. This happened on my 1nz too after I got my customs exhaust made. Doesn't seem to have any exhaust leaks either.
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2zr swapped Vios, oil catch can, TRD rear sway bar, MI lowering springs, In cabin+under hood SSK, TRD shift knob, HID projector/Halo lights, 10mm rear axle spacers, custom header back exhaust, Front splitter, Sickspeed dual horns, Tokiko Blue's in rear, triple gauges, Whiteline bushings, Sparco pedal covers, Viper Keyless entry, DC Sports CAI, NST u/d crank pulley, solid poly engine mounts, MR Racing Flywheel, Konig Dial Ins 15x7 +35, Hawk HPS pads
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