2ZR Turbo Yaris

[malibuguy]

Just delete the BOV its not super necessary. Im with you on the tuning the FIC. With my tercel i was having an annoying stumble as well that seemingly came out of nowhere and it was associated cells messing with the the cells that needed to stay pretty much unfooled with. I changed the map so basically the lower 3 cells were full vacuum to 0, then the remaining 13 cells above that was all boost to give me more resolution.

Since basically down low nothing needed tweaking once I set it for the large injectors.

Was awesome until I got greedy with the boost and sent a rod at 18psi. Should of kept it at 16psi.

But hey now it has a 1nz swap

[06YarisRS]

Originally Posted by malibuguy

Just delete the BOV its not super necessary. Im with you on the tuning the FIC. With my tercel i was having an annoying stumble as well that seemingly came out of nowhere and it was associated cells messing with the the cells that needed to stay pretty much unfooled with. I changed the map so basically the lower 3 cells were full vacuum to 0, then the remaining 13 cells above that was all boost to give me more resolution.

Since basically down low nothing needed tweaking once I set it for the large injectors.

Was awesome until I got greedy with the boost and sent a rod at 18psi. Should of kept it at 16psi.

But hey now it has a 1nz swap

Thanks. Well, I still have some tweaking to do for sure, but I'll wait until I can figure out this lack of full boost, leak issue. Not sure if I mentioned it above or not, but I still have the leak with the BOV port closed off. Once I sort the leak, I'm going to focus on improving my idle. Idle is great, but I get the occasional hiccup and it may stall with a bit of idle load and more likely when the A/C is on. The other fueling area I'd like to attend to is on light deceleration my AFR is a bit rich ranging from 12.9s to high 13s. My tailpipe is showing some soot. Other than that the car runs great and pulls like a rocket even at 4.5 - 5 psi. Since I can't get Torque to provide me with accurate boost or AFR readings, I'm going to have to bite the bullet and pick up those gauges.

I did a couple more tests and got some strange results. I removed the hose that comes out of my catch can and connects to the intake manifold - where the PCV would have entered the manifold. I put some pressure (about 8 to 10 psi) into the intake manifold. I could hear a large leak and I followed it to my 3" custom intake. It is leaking at the coupler just above the turbo that connects the two main pieces of intake piping together. I had to dent that tubing for clearances around the top of the head at the corners of the engine. As a result, the end of the pipe is a bit out of round so won't seal. I'll get that rounded back out at the local shop that has an exhaust pipe expanded. BUT... the leak isn't my concern. The question is, why would pressurized air from the intake manifold make its way back into the air intake for the turbo. Is this normal? I expect that it's just feeding back through the compressor housing and out through the intake. It begs the question though...if pressure from the intake manifold can make its way back into the air intake, does that not constitute a boost loss? Now, mind you, the car wasn't running, so there was no vacuum on the air intake. I never thought that boost could be lost back through the air intake. I expect that when in boost the air is all traveling toward the throttlebody at a high velocity, so it's unlikely to vent back out through the air intake. I'm really still in the learning phase, so nothing surprises me at this point.

I smoke tested my manifold and throttebody and could not get a whisp of smoke leaking from either of those. As expected, the smoke eventually made its way out of the air filter.

Somewhere I must still have a boost leak. But, right now I am at a loss as to where it is. Independent tests of vacuum lines and charge piping are excellent, easily handling 20+ psi. Tomorrow, after I get the intake fixed, I'm going to fiddle with my wastegate. Although it feels like the flapper door is making tight contact with the compressor housing, I'm going to preload the actuator by one or two turns. It is possible that I'm getting some leaking there as I had the actuator off a couple of times and may not have gotten the actuator arm nuts back in their original position.

[06YarisRS]

Another significant setback...

So, yesterday I was out driving around and I got a P0500 code (vechicle speed sensor). I thought it might be caused by chafed wires as one of my turbo coolant hoses looked like it was rubbing on it a bit. I conducted a continuity test and all there wires are fine. I was really hoping for lack of continuity in one of the wires, but no such luck. So, the next thing to check is the speed sensor itself. I soaked it in Releasall; allowing it to sit for a good amount of time. The bolt felt like it was turning and snapped off. Now I can't get sensor out to test it. I am not optimistic that the sensor itself is the problem, but if I can get it off, I will test it.

The current symptoms are: a MIL with code P0500, no speedometer and the car won't shift into overdrive.

I will try to remain optimistic, but I am beginning to wonder if I should have taken this project on. Things went so well for most of the build, but issues are cropping up that are putting a serious damper on my enjoyment of this.

[ern-diz]

I can't say I can relate because I've never been in your position, but I HAVE to imagine that this is all part of the journey. I may be speaking out of school, but a lot has gone your way so far. Don't let our OCD and desire for things to be absolutely perfect NOW put a damper on things. My dogs and my cars have taught me a lot about patience. Soak it all in. It's all part of the process. Just more opportunities for that infinitely rewarding feeling you spoke of earlier. One way or another, there isn't really anything that can't be overcome with enough time, effort (and maybe money lol).

All I can do is offer the unsolicited advice (which you can tell me to shove somewhere) of stay positive and stay the course. You may mess around and end up missing these days once the build is done, and for what it's worth, you've been a huge inspiration!

[Leegamer]

You're trailblazing here so you're gonna run into issues that no one has seen, but stay positive. You did this in a relatively short period of time and "Rome wasn't built in a day" lol. You'll get it man!

Based on this thread you're pretty sharp and thorough, so you'll get it!

[CrankyOldMan]

Sorry to hear that! It seems like my repairs are never ending as well--currently I'm going through accessory belts at an alarming rate. I've also had to replace the alternator itself three times in the last 3 years. I definitely get your frustration.

The sensor itself is a pain to remove, even with the transmission on a workbench. There's nothing to grab on to or pry against. I may have a few spares in my parts pile if you need to replace it. Getting the bolt out is going to be another story, I'm afraid. Might be able to get a welder in there and put a nut on the stub that's left, hopefully the heat will break it loose.

[06YarisRS]

Originally Posted by ern-diz

I can't say I can relate because I've never been in your position, but I HAVE to imagine that this is all part of the journey. I may be speaking out of school, but a lot has gone your way so far. Don't let our OCD and desire for things to be absolutely perfect NOW put a damper on things. My dogs and my cars have taught me a lot about patience. Soak it all in. It's all part of the process. Just more opportunities for that infinitely rewarding feeling you spoke of earlier. One way or another, there isn't really anything that can't be overcome with enough time, effort (and maybe money lol).

All I can do is offer the unsolicited advice (which you can tell me to shove somewhere) of stay positive and stay the course. You may mess around and end up missing these days once the build is done, and for what it's worth, you've been a huge inspiration!

Yeah, I was acting like a bit of a whiner (my words). LOL! And, yes, things have indeed gone my way. I have been very lucky with the build so far. You are right, ern-diz, this can be overcome and it will. I guess because things had gone so well, that I just expected them to keep going that way. I spent most of the day away from the car and it helped. On a positive note, I picked up my CAT today and it looks great. I hope it gets rid of my downstream O2 code. If not, I'll slap the defouers on and see if that works.

Thanks very much for the kind words. They really do help!

[06YarisRS]

Originally Posted by Leegamer

You're trailblazing here so you're gonna run into issues that no one has seen, but stay positive. You did this in a relatively short period of time and "Rome wasn't built in a day" lol. You'll get it man!

Based on this thread you're pretty sharp and thorough, so you'll get it!

Thanks a lot, Leegamer!

[06YarisRS]

Originally Posted by CrankyOldMan

Sorry to hear that! It seems like my repairs are never ending as well--currently I'm going through accessory belts at an alarming rate. I've also had to replace the alternator itself three times in the last 3 years. I definitely get your frustration.

The sensor itself is a pain to remove, even with the transmission on a workbench. There's nothing to grab on to or pry against. I may have a few spares in my parts pile if you need to replace it. Getting the bolt out is going to be another story, I'm afraid. Might be able to get a welder in there and put a nut on the stub that's left, hopefully the heat will break it loose.

Hey Sam. Sorry to hear about your troubles, but I guess it's just part of our game, eh? I'm going to see if I can test the sensor on the car. I read about how to check oscillating voltages with a multimeter by supporting the car and turning the wheels. Maybe it isn't the sensor. If it isn't, I can tell you, it's not going anywhere, lol. I may be able to drill it out and tap if I do have to remove it.

If I do need a sensor, maybe I'll hit you up. That's a very kind offer! I called Toyota and they want $500.00 for the sensor. Rock Auto has one from ~$135.00, so that's always an option too.

Thanks man!

[CrankyOldMan]

Originally Posted by 06YarisRS

Hey Sam. Sorry to hear about your troubles, but I guess it's just part of our game, eh? I'm going to see if I can test the sensor on the car. I read about how to check oscillating voltages with a multimeter by supporting the car and turning the wheels. Maybe it isn't the sensor. If it isn't, I can tell you, it's not going anywhere, lol. I may be able to drill it out and tap if I do have to remove it.

If I do need a sensor, maybe I'll hit you up. That's a very kind offer! I called Toyota and they want $500.00 for the sensor. Rock Auto has one from ~$135.00, so that's always an option too.

Thanks man!

Yeah, but it's mostly my own fault. I'm not as proactive about maintenance as I should be and generally let things slide until it's a crisis.

I'd be happy to donate one to the project, assuming it's the right part number!

[tmontague]

i agree with what others have said, you are blazing a trail not only with putting a turbo in a non turbo engine (in a car not spec'd from the factory with said engine) with a kit meant for a different car. On top of all of that, you want it to run as close to factory as possible and get rid of all dashboard lights not to mention all while running the stock ecu with a piggyback vs a standalone. This is no minor task by any means and I would say this far you have done a stellar job of chasing things down and correcting them.

You have had a decent run lately which sometimes can skew expectations as to thinking that is the norm. Sometimes issues like this help you readjust your realistic expectations. I would recommend you separate your current issues into a priority sequence and tackle them one at a time in order of importance depending on your preference. Trying to tackle it all at once will have you resenting the car pretty quickly.

This is one thing I learned with my recently purchased neglected Outback. I had to learn to live with certain dashboard lights while I focused on the most important issues that were related to chassis safety and dependability before I could tackle stability control sensor lights.

Keep in mind you took on this project (smartly) with a non DDer car that can afford down time. Use this to your advantage when you need it and take a break. There is no real time limit on this project and if you followed any other builds like this they seem to take a couple years before all of the kinks are worked out.

Keep on keepin' on

[06YarisRS]

Thank you Sam and Trevor! I don't think you know how helpful and encouraging your positive comments are. I have made some progress that I will share with you shortly. It may involved soliciting your opinion on a couple of things! Stay tuned...

[06YarisRS]

P0500 Troubleshooting

I got a P0500 (VSS Circuit Malfunction). The Vehicle Speed Sensor on the rear of the transmission is not working and the results are: no speedometer, dash MIL and no shift into overdrive. Shifting into all other gears is fine. I did have one point where the car would not move in gear at all. Shifting into park and back fixed that.

I did some testing today. I cut the pink wire to the connector (signal wire) and put a wire extension on it and a terminal to attach to my multimeter. The idea is to spin the wheel slowly with the ignition on (the sensor is ignition powered), and watch the multimeter as the current oscillates between 0 and 11 volts. Here is the testing procedure:



Here is the wiring diagram for the Yaris. I will have to crossreference with the xD diagrams, although I think the xD takes its speed data from the ABS system.



Test wire. When I conducted the test, the connector was reattached to the sensor.



Result. 0 volts with wheel spinning and stationary.



It seemed strange that I wouldn't see any voltage, so I decided to probe the power terminal on the connector (again, with ignition on) and still 0 volts. Here is a question, however: I did not ground the multimeter on on pin#2 of the connector, but rather on a chassis ground. Is it a must to ground the multimeter ground lead on the wire of pin#2? I can do that by making a tap into that wire of necessary.

Since I had no power at the connector (and I had previously done continuity tests - all good), I decided to move to the junction connector (CA2, if I recall correctly) in the fuse box to see if it was getting power. Again, with ignition on, there was zero volts.



I have to consult my wiring diagrams and trace where this power source comes from. If it is fact from the ECU, I may have a bad ECU. If I do, I can pick up another one for around $25.00 - $30.00.

I am thinking about applying direct voltage to the VSS pin wire #1 (black wire) and repeating the VSS sensor test. However, I need to find out if the supply is 12 volts and not something like 5. I expect it's 12 volts as it is an ignition source.

Open to any suggestions/recommendations. Thanks!

[tmontague]

hmm weird, I would do as you stated and just run power directly to the VSS. Double check to make sure it is 12V but I would be surprised if it wasn't. If the VSS works with direct power then you know the power supply is the issue and you will have to work back from the sensor to see where the power is cut off.

If there is no power all the way back to the ECU then either you have a bad ECU or it has something to do with the piggyback or the wiring of the piggyback messing with the ECU. No way to know this other then try another known good ECU.

I just find it off that all of a sudden your ECU is potentially bad. I don;t believe in coincidences enough to believe that. I have a feeling it has something to do with the addition of the piggyback. You know more about the wiring and hook ups then I do in regards to the piggy back though so I'm not sure what your thoughts are on that.

[06YarisRS]

Originally Posted by tmontague

hmm weird, I would do as you stated and just run power directly to the VSS. Double check to make sure it is 12V but I would be surprised if it wasn't. If the VSS works with direct power then you know the power supply is the issue and you will have to work back from the sensor to see where the power is cut off.

If there is no power all the way back to the ECU then either you have a bad ECU or it has something to do with the piggyback or the wiring of the piggyback messing with the ECU. No way to know this other then try another known good ECU.

I just find it off that all of a sudden your ECU is potentially bad. I don;t believe in coincidences enough to believe that. I have a feeling it has something to do with the addition of the piggyback. You know more about the wiring and hook ups then I do in regards to the piggy back though so I'm not sure what your thoughts are on that.

An update, Trevor, in my next post...

[06YarisRS]

I have a development that springs from a flaw in my testing. When I was looking for the power source at the fusebox, I hadn't plugged CA2 back into the fusebox. With CA2 seated back in the fusebox, I probed the pin from above and had battery voltage. I also have IGN battery voltage at the speed sensor connector, so I guess that's good news. However, when I connect my multimeter to the signal wire from the sensor, I get battery voltage - no oscillations in voltage when I spin the wheel. It just stays at battery voltage. Here's another possible factor. I checked my battery voltage today and it was just over 10 volts. I have been suspecting a weak battery for a while. I'll be picking a new one up tomorrow. I always keep it on a trickle charger. When they tested the battery today, it actually read 12.8 volts but immediately failed the amp draw test. Turns out that the battery was manufactured around 8 years ago. Not sure how long it was in service, but probably a long time. I know that low voltage can play havoc on modern electrical systems, but my VSS code popped up with the car running and charging at 14.1 volts. I will redo the test tomorrow with the engine running and with the new battery. Maybe the low battery voltage supplied to the sensor itself is adversely affecting the operation of the unit. At least tomorrow I'll have the correct voltage supply.

Anyway, with the VSS showing steady battery voltage and not oscillating, I'm leaning toward the sensor itself being the problem. I do think that bench testing the sensor is the way to go as if the nylon driven gear is broken, at least I can still spin the shaft and see if the voltage outputs are in spec. God forbid that the driving gear on the output shaft failed as that sounds like a transmission drop and case crack - something that I'm not necessarily comfortable doing.

To get the sensor off - with the broken bolt - I am going to try drilling out the broken bolt from above. I can pick up a 12" drill bit extension and it looks like I might have a straight on shot for drilling after I remove my intake and 1 heater hose. If I can drill it out, I'll tap for a new bolt. If I can't drill it out, it may be time to dig out the dremel and cut the bolt flange off the sensor. I won't really know how badly stuck the sensor shaft is in the transmission casing until I can get what's left of that bolt out of the equation.

A quick question about the sensor voltages when testing...With the open diff and the other wheel spinning in the opposite direction, would that affect the voltage output? I wouldn't think so.

Steady voltage with when turning slowly:



Broken bolt on VSS:

[06YarisRS]

P0500 VSS Testing

Please check out my video. I am getting strange behaviour from my VVS. Later, I plan to put my 2008 up on the stands, tap into the VSS signal wire and repeat the same tests and see what the voltage readings are. In the meantime, please have a look and see what you think. The weird thing is that sometimes I get a high voltage reading when I apply the brakes (wheels stop spinning) and the next time, I will get almost no voltage.

Thanks!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1d59v-rTqdo

Update: I tested the VSS on my 2008 using the same procedure and got virtually identical readings. I spliced in a bit of extra wire on the VSS sensor signal lead on my '06, reseated the plug as well as both ECU main connectors. I've gone for 3 short drives and the P0500 has not returned. I also installed a new battery and slightly tightened by serp belt as I had some minor squeaking on occasional starts. So, I have no idea what was wrong, but it's working great now. Time will tell.

Here is the VSS test video on my '08 which can be compared to my '06, if interested.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FAys4wV_BPc

Apparently either getting battery voltage or 0 volts is normal when stopped (wheels not turning). It depends which side of the sensor is next to the 'pickup' at the wheel stop time, I guess.

[06YarisRS]

Back to boost troubleshooting

I've been suffering boost cut at around 5 psi. Maybe saying that the max boost I get is around 5 would be more accurate. It will hit around 5 and stay there. I used my small compressor, 0 - 10 psi pressure gauge and tested my wastegate. At right around 5 psi, the flapper feels like it's getting loose. It's definitely open at around 6 - 7 psi, but I don't know if that's a fair test as there's no actual counteracting exhaust gas pressure in the turbine housing without the engine running. Then again, there probably shouldn't be much pressure in the turbine side. I need to read up more on wastegates.

Pics:







Update: Video of wastegate operation added. The wastegate flapper arm is almost unmoveable with no pressure applied. If I apply 3 - 4 psi, the flapper arm becomes loose and can be jiggled. After 5 psi, there is slight, yet visible, movement of the actuator arm. Much over 5 and I get very noticeable movement of the actuator arm. I know that there is no exhaust in the turbine side but my understanding is that the pressure on the turbine side would be minimal as it's flow through.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=IS6D2iFIpTk