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Old 11-14-2009, 11:58 PM   #19
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No problem guys.
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Old 11-15-2009, 09:14 PM   #20
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Damn, I'm gonna have to give this a try.

It shouldn't affect ride height at all, btw. Ride height is set with the spring height between the spring perches and this won't change that. It just changes the "static" angle of the beam axle assembly, presumably to a more favorable angle for a lowered car.

Basically, it should make whatever effects are designed into the movement of the beam axle (anti-squat, dynamic toe, etc) that are optimized to work at stock ride height... be more optimal for a car that's lowered. It's got to be a good thing.
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Old 11-15-2009, 09:16 PM   #21
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How easy would it be to move it to the said point?
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Old 11-15-2009, 09:25 PM   #22
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wow... crazy! good find.
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Old 11-15-2009, 09:47 PM   #23
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I'd guess that it would require removing the bottom shock bolts to decompress the spring. Then just removing the two pivot bolts, moving the axle assembly down, putting the pivot bolts back in, and putting the shock bolts back in.

Should be as easy as pie. (Mmmmmm... pie!)
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Old 11-15-2009, 10:11 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Loren View Post
I'd guess that it would require removing the bottom shock bolts to decompress the spring. Then just removing the two pivot bolts, moving the axle assembly down, putting the pivot bolts back in, and putting the shock bolts back in.

Should be as easy as pie. (Mmmmmm... pie!)

Actually you are moving the front of the rear axle up. I did this on a car lift with lift stands and air tools took about 30 mins to an hour. Probably about 2 hours laying on the ground.

This mod completely changed the way my car rotates. I would have to say this is great for people that track or auto-x their cars.
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Old 11-15-2009, 10:17 PM   #25
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Here are the pics that I snapped. You can see where the bolt was before by how clean it was under it. Don't say anything about the dirty car I washed it right after I took these. Sorry they are so big I didn't resize because I wanted to make sure you could see what I was talking about.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg IMG_0057.jpg (123.2 KB, 881 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_0058.jpg (118.8 KB, 872 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_0059.jpg (114.2 KB, 871 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_0060.jpg (118.2 KB, 852 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_0061.jpg (108.8 KB, 857 views)
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Old 11-15-2009, 10:32 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Loren View Post
It just changes the "static" angle of the beam axle assembly, presumably to a more favorable angle for a lowered car.
Exactly. I will do this this mod this week. Seriously, i'm very happy to talk to you about this mod and it work just... great!!! I wish to test it the next summer at lapping day! Just one thing. Before torque you axle beam bolt at your pivot, just swing your car 2 to 3 time juste for set your bushing. After, torque the bolt, car not jacked. If not, your bushing work hard!

This is the toyota procedure ;)

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Old 11-15-2009, 10:40 PM   #27
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Yes, that makes sense. Torquing the pivot bolts with the suspension drooped will cause the bushings to be preloaded when you set the car down.
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Old 11-15-2009, 10:49 PM   #28
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Good point I will have to take my bolts loose again and retorque them...
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Old 11-20-2009, 05:47 AM   #29
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Bump!
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Old 11-20-2009, 08:37 AM   #30
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I thought more people would be trying this! Hopefully I will be doing this tomorrow afternoon to my xD.

lilredrocket, any tips for this or is it as simple as it seems?
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Old 11-20-2009, 11:47 AM   #31
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I did it. Super easy. I put the car on jack stands at the rear jack points, used floor jacks to support the weight of the axle and keep the springs from fighting me, and removed the rear wheels, both for weight reduction and access.

You need a 17mm socket with either a breaker bar or an impact wrench to loosen it. It has loctite from the factory, so I'd have some handy for the re-install.

The swap is really easy, but a small prybar or big screwdriver will aid in lining-up the holes, which is the hardest part of the process. Take your time and wiggle the arm around till you can get a thread started, then you're home free. I forgot the exact torque spec, but you want it on there really good, 90-100 ft/lbs, maybe? (I'll check that # tonight and edit this post.)
That's it. Took me 30 minutes total, working alone.
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Old 11-20-2009, 12:12 PM   #32
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wow good one Maitre_Te_Te
just step out check yes its on the sedan
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Old 11-20-2009, 12:21 PM   #33
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Clarification, please: Are you saying it is better to torque the bolts while the suspension is unloaded, or after the car is on the ground in order to preload the bushings?
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Old 11-20-2009, 12:27 PM   #34
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ozmdd, have you taken it out yet? How does it feel?
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Old 11-20-2009, 02:05 PM   #35
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Yes, but havent' been able to push it hard yet. It definitely feels better - more planted - on the turn-in. Not sure if it altered the effective spring rate or preload on the spring, although it seems like it would a little.
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Old 11-20-2009, 03:32 PM   #36
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You want to torque either on the ground or with the suspension otherwise supporting the weight of the car. (on ramps, suspension on a jack or jackstand, etc) If you torque with the suspension drooped, when you put the weight on the car, there will be a twisting load on the bushings which can cause the rear of the car to sit artificially high and/or damage the bushings over time.
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