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Old 08-29-2010, 04:06 PM   #1
Kal-El
 
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Unhappy My air circulation switch just broke

Well, something on my Yaris was bound to break eventually. At 91,000 miles, the first issue happened today.

I went to switch the inside/outside recirculation switch and there was an unusual tension to it. Without thinking twice, I gave it a little more pressure and it just let go. The switch is just a loose piece now and I heard the directional parts within the dash make an odd noise during the time a lightly forced the rotation. Damn. So now I cannot choose between inside recirculation or outside air. I believe it is stuck on outside air.

At least it's not a critical function but still something I want fixed. With a tight budget, it won't happen soon. And I imagine this will be a costly dash removal.


This happen to anyone else? Any thoughts?

Thanks.
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Old 08-29-2010, 04:21 PM   #2
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There was a member from Canada who had his fail. I sold him Crashy's diverter assembly with the mechanical cable assembly that went to the back of the knob. To change it out requires removal of the entire dash, to get the blower stack out, which the diverter is part of. You can get at the diverter from up behind the passenger glove box to see why it won't flip positions. You can also easily remove the HVAC controls panel to see what happened on that side.
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Old 08-29-2010, 05:00 PM   #3
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Thanks CTscott.

I probably won't want to get into taking the dash apart myself.

How much do you think a dealer would charge - 1 or 2 hours of labor?
And are we talking about replacing a fairly cheap part or simply reconnecting a cable? I appreciate it.
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Old 08-29-2010, 05:57 PM   #4
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Can you just reach in and move that piece by hand via the glovebox?
I always leave it on recirc.
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Old 08-29-2010, 07:25 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kal-El View Post
Thanks CTscott.

I probably won't want to get into taking the dash apart myself.

How much do you think a dealer would charge - 1 or 2 hours of labor?
And are we talking about replacing a fairly cheap part or simply reconnecting a cable? I appreciate it.
If memory serves me, the person form Canada was quoted 6 hours of labor for removing the dash and swapping the assembly.
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Old 08-29-2010, 09:15 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CTScott View Post
If memory serves me, the person form Canada was quoted 6 hours of labor for removing the dash and swapping the assembly.
That's outrageous. I don't know how I'll ever get it fixed if that's the case. 6 hours x $100 just for labor to fix a minor problem?
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Old 08-29-2010, 09:25 PM   #7
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The same thing happened to me. I just took the panel off and found that the cable had popped off the back. I reattached it and it works fine now. Quick, easy and free. Hopefully its as easy for you.
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Old 08-29-2010, 10:10 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Manley81bass View Post
The same thing happened to me. I just took the panel off and found that the cable had popped off the back. I reattached it and it works fine now. Quick, easy and free. Hopefully its as easy for you.
I'll definitely give it a try. Thanks

However, I've discovered worse news after going out tonight. The top left knob assembly in question doesn't light up now!! That's even more concerning and much more aggravating to go without. So if it's a mechanical cable that controls the switch, why is it affecting the backlight?

This sucks.
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Old 08-30-2010, 07:07 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kal-El View Post
I'll definitely give it a try. Thanks

However, I've discovered worse news after going out tonight. The top left knob assembly in question doesn't light up now!! That's even more concerning and much more aggravating to go without. So if it's a mechanical cable that controls the switch, why is it affecting the backlight?

This sucks.
There are two connections on the back of that knob assembly - The mechanical cable for the diverter and an electrical cable for the fan speed control. You definitely need to pop off the AC control panel and take a look at what came off and how.
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Old 08-30-2010, 12:19 PM   #10
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Great news, I fixed it!!!

Pulled of the center panels and found that the assembly behind the switch had simply popped off. I re-attached and it's as good as new. All in 5 minutes. Wonder how much the dealer would have charged.

Thanks for your help guys.
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Old 08-30-2010, 05:32 PM   #11
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I think you owe CTScott the other 5 hours and 55 minutes of labor cost!

Glad you got it fixed and were able to tell others. Too bad you couldn't have
taken some pics of the process.
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Old 08-31-2010, 01:34 AM   #12
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found that if you sit on the opposite side when pulling out the side panels works best . That way you're at an angle where the plastic clips ( hooks ) let loose without breaking off . Had to remove center display so the loud annoying rattle it made would stop . Used sticky back felt , no more rattle . Good to see that you got it fixed .
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Old 09-02-2010, 10:49 AM   #13
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Glad you got it fixed and were able to tell others. Too bad you couldn't have
taken some pics of the process.


Very easy to do. It only takes minutes with no tools to take the center stack apart. Starting with pic 1 snapping off the bottom piece.

Then pic 2 shows the two vertical pieces snapped off.

Pic 3 shows the climate control panel being pulled off.

Pic 4 I'm holding the control arm assembly that connects to the back of the top left knob that controls the circulation switch. That's what popped off. I simply re-attached to the back of the the fan speed assembly shown in pic 5.

Attached Images
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Old 09-02-2010, 09:39 PM   #14
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I don't have a sedan, but thanks for the pics!
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Old 07-31-2012, 08:33 PM   #15
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Smile Thank you!

I realize this is an older thread, but I wanted to thank you for the pictures. I had the exact same problem with my Yaris but it wasn't stuck in "fresh air" mode. The windows were fogging up 20 minutes into a drive in the middle of winter (scary!).
I took it to my mechanic who fixed it and only charged me $35 for labour. Then it happened again. I don't want to be paying to have the same simple problem fixed when I feel like I can do it myself. Tomorrow morning I'm going to give this a try.

Thanks again!
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Old 08-01-2012, 07:45 AM   #16
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If you leave the dial on recirc in my experience you will crud up the system so it smells like old socks if you run the AC very much. Which needs to be on recirc if its really hot in summer.

So my drill is run it on fresh every day for a few minutes to keep my car smelling sweetly.

If that thing didnt toggle back and forth it would be trouble!
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Old 08-24-2012, 11:12 PM   #17
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The dash flies apart on these cars. They are like a snap tight model. There is a small peanut bulb for the back light it is a unique part and is a bit pricey. I paid 8 dollars Cdn for it. I think it tends to go because the fan and recirculate get used the most thus get jarred enough to pop the bulb. Glad you got it fixed. A word to the wise do not slam the recirc/fresh knob over quickly when the fan is full blast. The force of the air on the diverter flap probably puts a bit of stress on the cable assembly and will pop it off as it did to you ( luckily) or worse actually break something.

Cheers!
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Old 08-24-2012, 11:16 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bronsin View Post
If you leave the dial on recirc in my experience you will crud up the system so it smells like old socks if you run the AC very much. Which needs to be on recirc if its really hot in summer.

So my drill is run it on fresh every day for a few minutes to keep my car smelling sweetly.

If that thing didnt toggle back and forth it would be trouble!
Good plan. You don't want to run recirc too very long in cold weather either unless you like steamy windows! Hot days I run recirc with the AC to get the cabin cold fast then go to fresh.( unless there is some stinky diesel truck in front of me! LOL)
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