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Old 10-18-2009, 06:15 AM   #37
rningonfumes
 
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Altitude is right, get it out of there.


Be sure to drain it into something clean in case you let out too much. If you happen to be too low, you can take the same oil and put that back in.

Since this time you aren't doing a change, let it out when the car is compeletly cold so you won't burn yourself. Try to let out what you think to be 1 or 1.5 quarts, even 2 quarts, close things up and check the dipstick. If you're low, fill up to the half and check twice. Warm up the engine and check twice again.

Try to get it to the half-way point and you should be good.

Good job, your next change should be a cinch.
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Old 10-18-2009, 05:15 PM   #38
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I drained about half a quart out and now the dipstick measures exactly at the full mark.

Is that fine or should I really have it around the half way mark?
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Old 10-19-2009, 12:42 AM   #39
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http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&s...&aq=f&oq=&aqi=

It's best to have the oil level as close to the middle mark as possible or at least from half to full. The oil level isn't like the brake fluid or other fluids where you should be at the full mark.

For now you should be okay.
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Old 10-21-2009, 10:29 AM   #40
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I just wanna add this little gadget I found on the net http://qwikvalve.com/home.php Its a drain plug like a faucet for easy oil change.
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Old 10-21-2009, 10:31 AM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red Horse View Post
I just wanna add this little gadget I found on the net http://qwikvalve.com/home.php Its a drain plug like a faucet for easy oil change.
Never seen one of those. But that looks sweet!!!
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Old 10-21-2009, 11:57 PM   #42
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thats the fumoto valve. ive got one and i love it.
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Old 12-23-2009, 04:44 PM   #43
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Group buy on Fumoto Valve and discount code

I was looking around for the best price on the Fumoto Valve (F103) and found a link on ToyotaNation and a discount code for it. It makes the final price including shipping $24.65.

http://www.quickoildrainvalve.com
Discount code: YM4
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Old 12-23-2009, 07:35 PM   #44
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http://www.quickoildrainvalve.com/Se...ts.asp?Cat=187

That's a great buy.

Choice of two valves. 'With nipple and without.

Both work great but if you ever want to get a underpanel like the one Microimage has, the one witht he nippled extends out enough to impeded the panel form being installed without adjustments.


I have the one with the nipple, grea for attaching a hose so you can drain more easily, but now I have to adjust the panel. I don't have it on right now.
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Old 02-28-2010, 12:33 PM   #45
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Damn 5W20? Thats wayyy to thin. Even so with 5W30. I personally wouldn't use anything less then 10W30, atleast for the kind of driving we do in NYC.
5w30 is considerably thicker at 0F than it is at 200F. Just not by as much as a straight weight oil. Why do you think that it needs to be *even thicker* when cold, but don't seem concerned about 5w30 at normal operating temperature. In practice, the lower the first number the better. It's the second number that is really significant. Personally, I don't see the point in 10w30. It just takes longer to flow and makes the car harder to start in cold weather.

At any rate, Toyota says 5w30. Some engines, Yaris' included, use the engine oil as hydraulic fluid to do certain things. (Yaris' vvt-i engine uses it to control the valve timing.) So messing around with non-spec viscosities *can* have unintended consequences.

Use what the filler cap recommends.
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Old 03-02-2010, 02:29 PM   #46
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I want to know what the Deal is with the FRAM oil filters? Problems or just a personal preference?
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Old 03-02-2010, 08:29 PM   #47
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I want to know what the Deal is with the FRAM oil filters? Problems or just a personal preference?
If I may be so bold as to offer my opinion:

The cheapest Fram filters (the "orange can") have gotten a bad reputation. It may be deserved or it may not. There are plenty of anecdotal stories of Frams letting people down, but anecdotes are not proof that Fram's are any more prone to failure than any other cheapie brand. The main point of contention seems to surround the use of paper-like fiber end caps on the filter element instead of something more substantial (like, you know, METAL!). The more expensive Fram models seem to be made a little more stout and you don't hear as many complaints about them.

I've used Frams in the past, there are millions of cars on the road using them now, and, if I couldn't obtain anything else, I wouldn't have a problem using one today. But they are way down on my list.

From Amazon, I can get Purolator Pure One's for about $4.75 or Denso for $3.94. Better filters for about the same price.

Last edited by Happy Little Pony; 03-03-2010 at 03:00 AM.
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Old 03-03-2010, 09:17 AM   #48
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Ive used FRAM filters for 30 years. 1973 Chevrolet Bel Aire 153,000 miles.
1978 VW Rabbit (my parents car which I maintained) 120,000+miles. Not 100% FRAM filters but more than 75%. No problems that I can see.
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Old 08-13-2010, 09:37 AM   #49
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thanks for this post. it was a big help, I was able to switch to synthetic oil and save some money......
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Old 09-03-2010, 08:18 PM   #50
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5w20 oil

In the last 10+ years almost every japanese import calls for 5w20, mostly for its mpg. It gets to be over 115 degrees at times in this area, Far Northern California (Redding) and as cold as +15 degrees, and I have had no problems using this weight of oil. I have used it in Subaru's, Toyotas, and Hondas. I have a 06CRV that I have run 5w20 Moblie one with the pricey Fram oil filters since new and the CRV has over 180k miles on it. It burns no oil, and leaks no oil, and it is quiet. My parents use 10w30 in Toyotas of all kiinds and get over 300K miles with them.
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Old 09-03-2010, 09:37 PM   #51
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While the xW20 oils will improve MPG, I am not sold on engine protection with that thin of an oil.

I think it is all about pushing for what is most "green" for the planet these days and I would use 0W30 well before 0W20 or 5W20.
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Old 09-05-2010, 07:34 AM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rningonfumes View Post
http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&s...&aq=f&oq=&aqi=

It's best to have the oil level as close to the middle mark as possible or at least from half to full. The oil level isn't like the brake fluid or other fluids where you should be at the full mark.

For now you should be okay.

I don't know If you got that Right my Friend???
factory fill level is above the full mark by a 1/4"+,I get my OIL change at a very trusted shop , they specialize in Toyota and other Imports,they fill it
to spec 4 qt. and it comes to above the full mark 1/4''+, same thing at the
dealer where I had my 1st oil change .
Yes I know how to read a Dip Stick.?

Last edited by krolos; 09-05-2010 at 07:53 AM.
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Old 09-05-2010, 10:21 AM   #53
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FYI, for those of you that have Oreilly auto around you, they have an add today selling 5 qts of irelly full sythetic oil and a Wix filter for 19.99 good price!
The wife Highlander is due anyways!
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Old 09-05-2010, 11:59 PM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by krolos View Post
I don't know If you got that Right my Friend???
factory fill level is above the full mark by a 1/4"+,I get my OIL change at a very trusted shop , they specialize in Toyota and other Imports,they fill it
to spec 4 qt. and it comes to above the full mark 1/4''+, same thing at the
dealer where I had my 1st oil change .
Yes I know how to read a Dip Stick.?
My 2010 was above the full mark as well.
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