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Old 12-09-2014, 10:49 PM   #379
nookandcrannycar
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bronsin View Post
Id be afraid if its that far gone it will break all by itself.
The accident mentioned earlier in this thread (in 2013) was enough to scare me into action.
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Old 12-11-2014, 12:24 PM   #380
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eseibel67 View Post
Well the 07 sedan has been through many southern Ontario winters and I'm afraid to try and take the bolts out. ....... a better option than trying to remove it and breaking it for certain.
I feel the same way. But if that happens I'll carefully drive to the dealership and have them do the warrenty.

I guess stainless is out then? That's too bad.
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Old 12-12-2014, 07:16 AM   #381
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As with most automotive problems, I usually mull it over for a few days before I tear into action.

There's no doubt that the (relatively) permanent solution is to get new bolts. Skip the seam sealer prescribed in the Toyota TSB because you will never get it 100% water tight anyway, and it will just delay evaporation of water that does get in there. Drill 1/4" holes so the water can drain out of that low spot. Paint the freshly cut metal to prevent corrosion. Slather the control arm hole/new bolt head washer with blue marine grade grease such as Bombardier Triple Guade grease. That stuff is so tacky, it's hard to wipe off with an alcohol soaked rag. It will surely fend off a few drops of water for the next 10 years.

I am just outside of the 7 year warrnty cutoff. Hopefully some devine miracle will allow the old bolts to be removed in one piece. I really want to avoid dropping the subframe.
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Old 12-12-2014, 09:15 AM   #382
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nookandcrannycar View Post
The accident mentioned earlier in this thread (in 2013) was enough to scare me into action.
Bolts replaced in 2013 .
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Old 02-03-2015, 12:39 AM   #383
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Replaced the LCAs yesterday, successfully, without shearing any bolts or damaging threads. The alignment to get the arm is was the tricky part. Used a lube by a company called Schaeffer. Not available in stores and many times better than WD40. Before you laugh and say its from an infomercial, the guy who helped me with the arms had it in his shop. No heat needed at all to remove 12 yr old bolts without damage. Unreal stuff.
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Old 06-20-2015, 06:15 PM   #384
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It looks like i have some work to do...

Passenger side
20150620_170443.jpg

Driver side
20150620_170618.jpg

Any suggestions on the best way to remove the headless bolt?
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Old 06-20-2015, 06:29 PM   #385
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I think you can lower the cradle a little & try to turn it out with a pipe wrench.
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Old 06-20-2015, 06:31 PM   #386
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I was thinking that was the most probable solution. Would it need to be on a lift, or could I use ramps?
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Old 06-20-2015, 07:07 PM   #387
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If you try lowering the cradle it'll need to be on a lift or stands. You can access the upper nut of the control arm bolt if the foot well area. Someone actually pounded the broken bolt up through there, it broke loose the captured nut, allowing full removal of it.
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Old 06-20-2015, 07:48 PM   #388
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Removing the cradle is amazingly difficult with a broken bolt, as the rusted bolt bonds to the bolt sleeve. That is definitely the way to do it. Don't tray the hammering it to remove the captive nut route, as you will do more damage than you want to in doing so.
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Old 06-21-2015, 06:05 AM   #389
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I seem to remember a recall notice for this. It might still be in my glove box I'll check tomorrow and update the post if its still there.
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Old 06-21-2015, 06:38 AM   #390
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Originally Posted by 2009Toyotoad View Post
I seem to remember a recall notice for this. It might still be in my glove box I'll check tomorrow and update the post if its still there.
There is a service bulletin on it. So, that really is another option (as long as it falls within the mileage limit) - to simply bring the car to Toyota and let them deal with it.
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Old 06-21-2015, 06:58 AM   #391
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Mine has 170,000 miles; way past the warranty
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Old 06-21-2015, 08:21 AM   #392
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Mine has 170,000 miles; way past the warranty
And, if I remember correctly the "warranty extension" for this issue is only to 100K miles.
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Old 06-21-2015, 08:25 AM   #393
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And, if I remember correctly the "warranty extension" for this issue is only to 100K miles.
Yep. 7 years / 100K miles
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Old 06-21-2015, 08:27 AM   #394
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Should I use jacks at the jack points to take the weight off of the wheels, or ramps? I don't have access to a lift.
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Old 06-21-2015, 02:56 PM   #395
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Should I use jacks at the jack points to take the weight off of the wheels, or ramps? I don't have access to a lift.
Definitely jack it via the lift points. If you use ramps you will still have the weight on the front suspension. Make sure you support it very well, as it will take a lot of torque to break some of the bolts loose.
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Old 06-22-2015, 11:28 AM   #396
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Just did mine. They were so seized in there my 1/2" breaker bar was useless as it just kept bending (didn't stay bent but all my energy was going into a spring). Bought a 3/4" socket (no metric that small, but fortunately it's basically identical to 19mm) for my 36 inch 3/4" breaker bar. That did the job GREAT although I had to back the bolts out most of the way with the breaker bar as they never loosened enough for a ratchet until the very end. I did this with one corner of the car jacked up very high. Total labour (for me) about 2 hours (due to having to back them out with the big-ass breaker bar).

If I were to do this again, I'd simply do it with the car on the ground as those bolts are easy to reach without any need for additional clearance. Would take just as long but way more comfy. Or, if I were a shop, I'd put the car on a lift, get the bolts loose with the breaker bar, and finish them up with an impact wrench.

It was about time to do it as well, look at what doesn't get a recall in Toyota land:



Guess I will be doing this every couple of years so long as I own the car. Fortunately the replacement bolts are only $17 total here in Canada (odd to find something at the dealer that didn't require me to get a second job to pay for it).

Front end clunk never disappeared after fixing it, though. Guess I have something else to fix... Ball joints and tie rods seem fine. :(
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