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Old 08-14-2011, 09:23 PM   #1
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Rear Brake issues at the track? alway need to be adjusted how to fix?

Hey guys. Everytime I go at the track I always have to reajust my rear brakes and im not talking about 1-3 click but more like 10 clicks everytimes. I was wondering if everybody had that problem of if sum1 understand what is happening in there. On my paseo I could adjust them 1-3 clicks and I think thats fine but on the yaris omg. I get at the track with the handbrake at 2-3 clicks and its holding and yesterday I did a fullday at the track and handbrake is wayyyyy looose.

I was thinking, on planes u have to put wire on bolts that can be adjusted so they dont move with the vibration in flight. I was wondering if that will work on brakes tough ??

Ill try it this week and im going back on a full lapping day on sunday we'll see how it goes!
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Old 08-14-2011, 10:17 PM   #2
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on my car, over time, the handbrake gets looser and looser, and it's always the two botls that are under then handle. If you can tighten those properly and maybe get a drop of thread ocker in there, it may help?
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Old 08-15-2011, 05:35 PM   #3
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no its not that. on a car with rear disc that wut you have to do but on a drum you adjust them directly in it.!

thx for trying to help tough!
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Old 08-16-2011, 01:53 PM   #4
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I think the real question is: Are the adjusters moving backwards, or are you using that much brake shoe?

The adjusters are designed to be harder to adjust backwards so I'll assume your bakes are wearing out fast.

What kind of shoes do you have on it? If they are stock I wouldn't think you would wear them down that much.

They might not be disengaging properly. I'd start by taking them apart and doing the following(finding instructions for shoe replacement would be a good idea as there are lots of parts):
1. Clean out brake dust(I do some clean-out before every track day, get a copper brush and clean out the drums, and the metal brake parts)
2. Make sure the springs seem ok.
3. Check the wheel cylinder, check for tearing of the rubber parts.
4. Put some bake quiet on the metal part of the shoes that touch the back plate, and where other metal parts connect that move(little dab wear the springs connect, etc).
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Old 08-16-2011, 02:00 PM   #5
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We have never had to do anything with our rear brakes. I am still running the OE shoes, now into our second season.

Are you sure you are not dialing in to much drag to begin with, accelerating pad wear?
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Old 08-17-2011, 06:20 PM   #6
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Sorry If I am not that clear im a french canadian :)

Everything is moving properly, nothing as ever been changed in there and there is no oil leak at all. car as 45xxxkm now and Id say that the shoes still have 2mm. So its not a bad pad wear that I have.

That little thing that turn and goes click click. "dial"???? My ghetto repair i just bought some steel wire and tightened the metal part at the back that makes sure the adjustement doesnt go back. I just looped the metal wire around it and tightened it just a little to make sure it wasnt moving.

I tried a different thing on the other side just to put the metal wire tight on the thread of the adjustment bolt so it doesnt move either. Ill see how both sides goes and if it did change sumthing!

Going at the track sunday so ill post when i can to tell you guys. Ill get some pictures as well!
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Old 08-18-2011, 12:36 AM   #7
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My ebrake is about 10 clicks after I got my shoes and springs and wheel cylinders changed... it'll barely lock the tires at all. I should probably look at that lol.

The Echo's have self-adjusting drums, dont the Yarii also?
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Old 08-18-2011, 12:06 PM   #8
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The Echo's have self-adjusting drums, dont the Yarii also?
It is my understanding that they only adjust when braking in reverse, or some such silly thing like that. Doesn't really do anything on track days.
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Old 08-18-2011, 01:14 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markitect View Post
It is my understanding that they only adjust when braking in reverse, or some such silly thing like that. Doesn't really do anything on track days.
How does one navigate the paddock and never back up? Not even counting on/off the trailer I have to back into or out of my parking space at the track.

There is something else going on in his case. We used the same set of front pads for the las two seasons - less one test session on another brand. I just put on fresh pads to prep for the Runoffs, and the fronts were still 30%, the stock rears still look great.
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Old 08-18-2011, 03:36 PM   #10
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1. No trailer.
2. No paddock.

Jealous!

Seriously though, even without those things I back up at the track on a regular basis.
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Old 08-18-2011, 05:01 PM   #11
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dude

between hotlaps, drive backward a few dozen yards, and yank the e-brake.

they self-adjust and click for you when you do this. it tightens them up. may need 3-10
tries to crank up a really loose drum brake...but that is how it is done

if you have the coin and are going to race a lot, it makes more sense to convert to rear disc brakes
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Old 08-19-2011, 10:21 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jason@SportsCar View Post
How does one navigate the paddock and never back up? Not even counting on/off the trailer I have to back into or out of my parking space at the track.

There is something else going on in his case. We used the same set of front pads for the las two seasons - less one test session on another brand. I just put on fresh pads to prep for the Runoffs, and the fronts were still 30%, the stock rears still look great.
No tailer for me, and we usually have plenty of parking to pull through, and have our gear/tent next to the car. Waterford Hills has excellent paddock to track ratio. The downside is our OTD run around 150. The track is well worth it though if anyone is ever in the area (or you live 15 min way).
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Old 08-21-2011, 10:20 AM   #13
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There should be a little rubber service port on the backing plate of the drum. All you need is a flat head screwdriver and you can adjust it without taking the drum off. It's also there so when you CAN'T get the drum off you can back off the brakes.
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Old 08-23-2011, 08:29 PM   #14
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no problem is fixed by tightening the dial stopper with a steel wire.

anyway I guess it's not common but i found the way to fix it?? doesnt look pretty but it works!
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