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Old 10-23-2018, 05:51 AM   #163
06YarisRS
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ArmstrongRacing View Post
Trevor your ability to get this done in one weekend AND all of the great content you’re providing is pushing me to encourage YOU to do a “Yaris engine removal” tutorial
Amen! That was a major feat doing that by yourself! I can only imagine trying to work under the car, lining things up and having to move back and forth from underneath to your engine hoist. I think you had a jack underneath too, correct?

Thanks gents!

Ah, yes, I'm glad you mentioned the fluids Trevor. It reminded me that I have to empty my oil drain pan, which has been sitting full for the past couple weeks. Fortunately, my neighbour has large drums for waste oil, coolant etc. We have a good arrangement going. I borrow some tools from him etc and I undercoat his vehicles for him at our shop.

When I was out under the car yesterday, I was musing about how nice it would be to be able to drop the engine in without disturbing the transmission lines, but obviously that's not going to be possible with having to remove the rad. I think it would be far too big a risk trying to get the engine down into the bay even with the wiper cowl removed.

My major concern now is effectively getting all of the bell housing bolts off without breaking them. This is a 2006, winter driven car. Any advice you guys are willing to give, would be great. And, Trevor, I haven't forgotten your advice to remove the trans with the engine and I think I will do that if I encounter any issues with bolt removal. It would no doubt be easier to attend to stuck bolts out of the car.

As I move forward my current 'wondering' is how the A/C lines will need to be modified to adapt to the Corolla compressor.

Finally, I never managed to source engine hooks. Here is a question:

Will this tab on the cylinder head be strong enough to lift the engine? I am hooked to the mount at this point but that may be in the way of attaching the driver's side bracket. The current diagonal placement provides a pretty level engine.

The other option is to fabricate some hooks in our shop as we have lots of flat stock, drill presses and metal benders.

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Last edited by 06YarisRS; 10-23-2018 at 08:01 AM.
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Old 10-23-2018, 10:14 AM   #164
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In the next 2 years once my family moved into a house with a garage and I get a dd'r beater I plan on making some 2zr videos with some good DIY guides. Problem is I'm always in a rush when I work on my car so I only have the time to do a quick post on weird things I noticed for any who do it in the future.

One of the main reasons I could do the swap as quick as I did was because of the outlines and threads posted from those that did the swap before me and wrote down and took pics of everything. It was a huge help.

It was a tough job with no hoist. Hardest part was the multiple times of getting up and down from underneath the car, made me very sore in the neck and core for the next few days.

I personally would not lift the engine from those tabs, especially when it is the engine and trans convo, that's about 300 lbs total ( 200 from engine and 100 from trans)

The oem hooks are very specific as they have a 1.5" spacer to allow you to bolt it to the head but clear the head at the same time. It would he tough to fabricate without having the oem hook in hand.

Use the engine mount and header or intake manifold and header. Just keep the contact point close to the block as you can so it reduces the moment arm and torque on the part you are hooked to.

You can then put a jack underneath to support it when you need to unhook from the mount to install the engine. You can use a different area when you unhook from the mount as you went be lifting the engine much once it's ready to be bolted to the mounts.

The bell housing bolts were no issue for me but if you'd like you can spray the backside with penetrating fluid. You have back access to most.of the bell housing bolts so you can spray the threads from behind. But like in said they all came out fine. As always i reinstalled with anti seize and hand tightened
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Old 10-23-2018, 05:08 PM   #165
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+1 on not lifting via the tabs - I think you'll risk breaking them while shoving the engine + transmission around. The factory lifting hooks work well in terms of weight bearing, but I found using a single direction, basic load leveler (as opposed to a 2-axis lifting frame) caused it to roll front-back as well as side-side when trying to make adjustments. I ended-up slinging the transmission side to the transmission mount bracket and using a two-point attachment on the front - the factory hook to the intake side and a loop of chain bolted into the block on the exhaust side. Speaking of which - the intake is plastic, I wouldn't risk slinging through it either.

Just remember when you get into it, there are items that have to work, and there are things that are nice to work; i.e. A/C.

w.r.t. bell-housing bolts - as Trevor said some penetrating fluid on the backside (thread) and if that doesn't give them up the torch on them should do the trick I would imagine. Being different metals they will expand at different rates; heat up, cool with some penetrating fluid, should de-crust it enough to pop them loose I'd imagine.

Awesome work getting setup so far! Can't wait to see you dive into it.
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Old 10-23-2018, 08:48 PM   #166
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Thanks gents! I will refrain from lifting on the tabs. That said, yesterday, I did lift the engine by that tab and the mount,, but just up in the air and quickly back down. I can't see having the actual lift hooks by the weekend as I haven't actually been able to ascertain the correct part number. Even if I did, I won't have them in time to do the job. So, I'll have to come up with another work around. I'm not going to trust my thin green tiedown straps, so will find heavier strapping for this application.

I am going to try to leave the transmission in the car, slide the engine down in and bolt it up. This may not be the best approach, but it's the one I'm most comfortable with for a couple of reasons: 1) I'd rather deal with fewer mounts, 2) I shouldn't have to deal with axles, risking seal damage 3) I'll be dealing with less overall mass 4) I'd like to see if I can pull it off.

It has, I know, been a long build-up to my swap. I am super pumped to dig in to this. Further to your comment, Adam, about things that 'have' to work vs those that are 'nice' to work, haha, I've already prepared myself for any eventualities there. I will of course be dogged in my pursuit of eventually having everything work! My cruise control is definitely a wild card.

I picked up my timing chain tensioner gasket, a tube of black RTV as well as 3 quarts of WS (I have another 2 in the garage) and two Carquest oil filters that are Korean-made and look quite well made. Heading out to the garage now to install the filter and tensioner gasket! (Both done now)
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Last edited by 06YarisRS; 10-23-2018 at 11:58 PM.
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Old 10-24-2018, 06:03 AM   #167
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Flip Fuel Line Around

Here is a pic from Tom's swap thread. Just trying to get a sense of what's involved in flipping the fuel line around. First, is it line 1 or 2 as labeled in the pic below? And is it flipped end for end or flipped vertically? My Corolla engine already has the fuel lines attached. Or, are we talking about the rubber hoses in this instance?

Thanks!

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Old 10-24-2018, 01:42 PM   #168
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You don’t mess with any of the metal lines. The plastic fuel hose that connects the engine to the car is what needs to be turned around. It’s a strange “S” shaped hose with quick disconnects on each end(blue release buttons on the fittings).
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Old 10-24-2018, 03:35 PM   #169
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ArmstrongRacing View Post
You don’t mess with any of the metal lines. The plastic fuel hose that connects the engine to the car is what needs to be turned around. It’s a strange “S” shaped hose with quick disconnects on each end(blue release buttons on the fittings).
Ah, I see. Perfect. Thanks!
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Old 10-24-2018, 08:29 PM   #170
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Help! I may have run into a snag. Here is what I posted in brushforhire's 2ZR swap thread. I'm not sure if he is around anymore.

Hi brushforhire. I am hoping that you can help me here as I'm almost ready to do my engine swap. I am keeping my Yaris transmission but, of course using a Scion xD harness. I think I have all the other wiring figured out except the trans ground for the yaris.

Your pic is below. You indicated that the hole immediately to the right of the solid blue wire would be used for ground to block. That would be "9", correct.




Here is my Yaris connector. Hole "9" is aready occupied. Can you tell me which hole I should use for the ground?



Thank you very much in advance.

Adam
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Old 10-24-2018, 09:01 PM   #171
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Use a test light to check if the empty spot on your connector is a ground. Hook the one end of the test light to the positive on the battery and the pointy end to the pin in that hole.

Iirc tom ended up just grounding the wire to the trans block at there was a threaded hole somewhere on it
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Old 10-24-2018, 10:01 PM   #172
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tmontague View Post
Use a test light to check if the empty spot on your connector is a ground. Hook the one end of the test light to the positive on the battery and the pointy end to the pin in that hole.

Iirc tom ended up just grounding the wire to the trans block at there was a threaded hole somewhere on it
Thanks Trevor. The pic I posted above is actually the Yaris harness connector - still on my Yaris engine, but my xD harness also has a wire already in the pin that is supposed to the ground wire as per bushforhire's explanation.

I have a multimeter but not a test light.
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Old 10-24-2018, 10:13 PM   #173
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Some Progress

I have drained all the fluids. I drained the ATF into an old ice cream bucket that I marked off in liters so I can replace the same amount when done. Removed the front, rad hoses, rad, ac lines, transmission lines, starter, airbox etc. Great news is that all the bellhousing to engine bolts are breaking free fairly easily. It looks as though the Releasall made its way quite deep into the threads.

I still have to remove that large cross member in the front but am soaking those bolts in penetrant as they are a bit rusty. Or, should I leave that crossmember as it's a major structural member? I'll take off the wiper tray tomorrow as well as the battery and tray, take out the torque converter bolts. Time permitting, I'll disconnect the exhaust from the manifold.

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Old 10-24-2018, 11:16 PM   #174
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Help Identifying this missing hose...

Here is the pic of the engine before it was shipped to me.



Here is the pic of my engine with the hose missing. Not sure where the hose that attaches to this fitting runs to or what it does. I assume it's some kind of vacuum hose. I couldn't find anything on the engine that it would attach to. Maybe the intake tube? Brake booster? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

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Last edited by 06YarisRS; 10-24-2018 at 11:48 PM.
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Old 10-25-2018, 02:45 AM   #175
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That blue wire coming out of you xD harness shift control plug should be cut about 8" from the plug and grounded to the transmission case. If you would have scrolled down further on Brushfohires post you would see that.

The hose that's missing is still there....its just hanging down by the throttle body. It must have accidentally been pulled off the port.
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Old 10-25-2018, 06:05 AM   #176
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ArmstrongRacing View Post
That blue wire coming out of you xD harness shift control plug should be cut about 8" from the plug and grounded to the transmission case. If you would have scrolled down further on Brushfohires post you would see that.

The hose that's missing is still there....its just hanging down by the throttle body. It must have accidentally been pulled off the port.
Thanks Tom! I am confused (happens easily ) about this blue wire because Sam says explicitly not to cut the wire and ground it. He indicates that the picture is wrong in his post and that a wire needs to be added to hole 9 next to the blue wire.

I feel quite silly about missing that hose. I think it's just me missing things trying to keep everything straight in my mind as I disassemble and reassemble stuff.
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Old 10-25-2018, 06:39 AM   #177
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Remove the cross members to give yourself more space. They are only structural when in a front end impact.

And as Tom said, the hose is right beside the port in the picture
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Old 10-25-2018, 01:49 PM   #178
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The pin swap was only applicable to using a corolla harness, and that took place at the large ECM connector. The xD harness only needs the blue wire grounded like in the picture
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Old 10-25-2018, 05:58 PM   #179
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Quote:
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The pin swap was only applicable to using a corolla harness, and that took place at the large ECM connector. The xD harness only needs the blue wire grounded like in the picture
THANK YOU, Tom! I think I'm just confusing myself. I've been staying up too late the last few nights too, so certainly not working at max cognitive capacity. Haha. Still on schedule for Saturday. Got the crash bar, battery and battery tray out. Will try to go out tonight to take the hood and wiper cowling off and maybe the torque converter bolts.
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Old 10-25-2018, 06:03 PM   #180
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Quote:
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Remove the cross members to give yourself more space. They are only structural when in a front end impact.
Removed it, Trevor. Because I have the foglights, the body harness (I think) is still in the way but can be moved up or down a bit. I didn't trace the harness back on the passenger side, so maybe there are just a few connectors to remove and I can pull it out of the way.
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