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Old 09-29-2010, 01:07 AM   #1
Focus_Sh1ft's Avatar
Drives: 08 Yaris Turbo; 06 tC Turbo
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: New Jersey
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Ultimate Turbo Pre-Install Guide

*This guide is under heavy construction. I figured I'd at least get this posted up, as what I currently have may prove to be helpful for some.

*WARNING: I wrote most of this up when I was super tired lol.

---Table of Contents---
1) AEM FIC Install
2) Oil Pressure / Vacuum / UEGO Gauges Install
3) Apexi Turbo Timer Install
4) 1ZZ Injector Install

Your car's new brain. Or second brain... something like that. There's hundreds of ways to hook this thing up, but we'll keep it simple and go with what's tried and true. Unless you like working in cramped spaces(granted, on tuesdays and thursdays I do), take the wiper assemebly off, once again.

Here's what you'll need:
-AEM FIC + universal harness
-ECM pinout {}
-Some sort of power drill
-Exacto Knife
-10mm socket
-Soldering iron + solder
-Wire stripper
-Electrical tape

-1/8" NPT female brass t-fitting
-2x 1/8" NPT male to 5/16"
-1/8" NPT male to 3/16" barb
-Additional 3/16" rubber hose*
-3/16" Nylon adapter fitting*

*UPDATE: There's a rubber grommet in this area you can run the wires through. A.K.A. You shouldn't need to drill. Drilling time. You're gonna want to make a hole somewhere near the left bolt on the ECM retainer. Open the hole enough with the drill to run only the neccessary FIC wires through. A 1/4" bit should be enough. Push the wires through from the cabin side (there should be a flap in the insulation that will expose the hole you just made when moved), then pull them up to near the ECM on the engine bay side. You can seal the hole with some silicon or something, but I'm far too lazy. Our wires are where we want them, so let's do it up.

FIC Power----(IGN PWR)---------------A21-1 or A21-2
FIC Gnd------(PWR GND) (SIG GND)----C20-104
Injector 1----(INJ 1 IN/OUT)-----------C20-108
Injector 2----(INJ 2 IN/OUT)-----------C20-107
Injector 3----(INJ 3 IN/OUT)-----------C20-106
Injector 4----(INJ 4 IN/OUT)-----------C20-105
MAF---------(MAF IN +/OUT +)--------C20-118
Cam+--------(CAM1 MAGI+/MAGO+)----C20-99
Cam(-)-------(CAM2 MAGI-/MAGO-)----C20-121
Crank+-------(CRK MAGI+/MAGO+)-----C20-122
Crank(-)------(CRK MAGI-/MAGO-)-----C20-121

*UPDATE: Me, and a few others, had problems with the cam and crank wires. If what's above doesn't work, try Wiring up the cam+/crank+ the same way, but TAP the cam-/crank- wires (using MAGI-). MAGO- will not be used. I've verified this still keeps ignition control.

Firstly, AEM is drunk to think they're cutsey wires that have been pre-soldered will be helpful. Grab a wire stripper and get some more of the FIC wires exposed. Braid them. The power and gnd wires are tap wires, so locate those wires on the ECM and expose some of the wire using an exacto knife or something sharp. Wrap the appropriate FIC wire around it, solder it, then tape it.

The injection wires are intercept wires. The correct way to get these setup is by first cutting the appropriate ECM injector wire, then stripping it at both ands and braiding it. Now, the "injector in" wire will connect to the ECM side of the wire, and the "injector out" will connect to the engine side of the wire. Same basic practice, braid the wires, solder them, tape them. Fin.

The MAF in and out wires are the opposite procedure of the injection wires. Cut C20-118, then wire the "MAF in" wire to the engine side of C20-118. Wire "MAF out" into the ECM side of C20-118. Solder blah blah blah done.

Cam and Crank wires are a bit different, but wire up the same way as MAF. All eight wires are used as intercept wires, with in coming from the engine side, and out to ECU.

*UPDATE: As far as I know, no one has sucessfully got the O2 sensors wired up correctly. It's just as easy to run in open loop anyway.

Mount the FIC somewhere behind the glovebox. *UPDATE: DO NOT MOUNT IT IN THE ENGINE BAY. I've yet to figure out a good way to do so, so get creative. I'd highly reccommend using the supplied jumper harness to bypass the FIC until tuning time comes around.

Last edited by Focus_Sh1ft; 11-21-2012 at 01:53 PM.
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Old 09-29-2010, 01:08 AM   #2
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Drives: 08 Yaris Turbo; 06 tC Turbo
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 874
*UEGO Install guide in progress

Gauges... Ricey for the NA, but an absolute necessity for forced induction. Trust me, I felt like a total ass driving around with 6 gauges for about two weeks before doing the turbo installation. Though, being my first car (and obviously my first car with gauges), they were obnoxiously amusing to watch. For now, I'll detail the install of my mechanical oil pressure and boost gauge. *UPDATE: I would recommend using electric gauges for oil pressure and water temp.
*UPDATE: Don't skimp on gauges. I used sunpro and have since replaced them for higher quality gauges. GAUGES ARE EVERYTHING. If something is going wrong with your engine, it's vital you spot it ASAP. Further - these are the bare minimum you should have prior to turboing:
-Boost gauge/possibly with vacuum
-Water temp
-Oil pressure
-A code reader

-Your mechanical boost and oil pressure gauge (surprising, right?)
-Oil Filter sandwich adapter ( (HIGHLY RECOMMENDED, otherwise you're gonna need some wacky Dr. Suess wrench to get at the oil idiot sensor. Then, when the impossible is done, you still need an annoyingly hard to find metric adapter. I used this again during the turbo install anyways, so it's money VERY well spent).
-Threaded tee (I used 1/8" NPT)
-2x 1/8" NPT to 5/16" dia. nipple (assuming the above tee is used)
-Flame retardant conduit (the plastic tubing most wires in the engine bay are kept in, walmart has this).
-Some additional wire
-Some additional Nylon tubing (Sunpro sells this with the needed connectors as well)
-Add a fuse (mini) (LINK)
-Some 5A, 7.5A, or 10A fuses (NO GREATER THAN 10A, I used 10A)
-Closed loop connector(s)
-Soldering iron + solder (I guess crimp connectors work too)
-Wire crimper, stripper

So, I'm not going to tell you where to mount your gauges. Basically anywhere that isn't right in your face, but is a glance away will be perfect (HINT: cool people use the A-pillar). Since I had 6 gauges that lit up, I spliced all 6 power (red) wires into 1 wire that I ran into the crimp connector on the add a fuse (at the fuse panel). If you're gonna follow suite, you HAVE TO USE SOLDER. Crimp the wire, add the fuses you have to the add a fuse, then place it in the PANEL1 fuse slot (just remove the current fuse, it can't be used in the add a fuse harness) next to the OBD-II port. This circuit recieves power when the parking lamps are enabled. Now, do the same with the ground wires (black). Execept this time, the wire that you splice all ground wires into will need a closed loop connector. You need to attach this loop to the ground point behind the interior panel under the OBD-II port. It's the white and black wire that's bolted to the chassis.

Now for the nylon tubing. This stuff is a pain in the balls to work with. You can boil it, but for the more lazy (such as myself), I just slowly stretched it then duct taped it to the ground to force it to retain a straighter orientation. Ate some pizza or something to kill some time then came back to it. I was able to run it through the flame retardant conduit, then taped the ends to keep it in. Quick disclaimer: make sure you don't get the nylon lines confused. Mark both ends of one of the lines with a permenant marker or something. Now for the gayest part of any car wiring - running ANYTHING through the god damn firewall. Dunno about other makes, but Toyota really doesn't accomate for any additional wiring. I still don't know the right way to do this, but I took a small exacto knife and taped it to the plastic flame retardant conduit. I then pushed it through the rubber grommet until it poked through the other side enough to be pulled through. Did I mention you need to remove the wiper assembly to have a chance at this? Yeah, incredibly inconvienient, I know. Boost gauge first.
Cut the vacuum line that goes to the intake manifold (PICTURE). I used some sort of metal shears. Just do whatever it takes. Put some teflon tape on the threads of the nipples then screw them into the elbow as tight as possible. Connect the two ends of vacuum line. Now put some teflon tape on the adapter nut that came with the gauge. Refer to Sunpro's installation guide to install the nylon line. I believe it was adapter, then put the nylon tubing nut on the nylon tube, then the ferrule. TIGHTEN EVERYTHING. TIGHT. BUT NOT TOO TIGHT. I learned this the hard way ...twice. First time, was too loose, and it was with the oil pressure line. Let's just say I'm still finding oil in my dash. Second time I snapped the locking nut. Don't forget to attach the nylon line to the gauge.

On to the oil pressure gauge. First things first, let's get this sandwich adapter on. WARNING: You're gonna get messy. And lubricated. Oh baby. Jack the car up at the two front jack points. Only way you're gonna have enough room, unless you're anorexic. If you do your own oil changes then you should know by now where the filter is and how to get it off. I'm assuming you like having others do the dirty work. Contradictory if you're doing a turbo kit install though. ANYWAYS, You need to get the oil filter off without totally ruining it. I use a plumbing wrench and play with it until I have a decent clamp on the filter to get it moving. Then I use my soft baby hands to get it off entirely. Have a pan or jug ready. You can reuse this oil or put about half a quart of new oil back in. Up to you. If I remember right, you have to screw in the threaded adapter to where the oil filter goes first. Then put the sandwich in (I believe it was o-ring/gasket side up), then the oil filter goes back on. Here's another warning to make everything tight, especially the bolts that close the unused holes on the adapter. I had leaks on these until I got them VERY tight. Teflon tape, once again, is recommended. Not much else to say, connect the nylon line to one of the threaded holes in the same manner we did with the vacuum line. Attach nylon line to the back of the gauge and this is FINISHED.

Check for leaks, make sure illumination works, cool off with an (preferably) alcoholic beverage.

Last edited by Focus_Sh1ft; 11-21-2012 at 02:02 PM.
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Old 09-29-2010, 01:08 AM   #3
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Call me homo, but this thing is cute. If you aren't going to be water cooling your turbo, this is a must. *UPDATE: If your turbo can't be water-cooled, throw it out the window. Seriously. You shouldn't even have to worry about cooling off your oil everytime you stop the car. Further, oil temp runs higher on the Yaris than what is recommended for journal bearing turbos. So taking water cooling out of that equation is just asking for trouble... Otherwise it's just optional. Nonetheless, being the guinea pig I wound up installing one of these since I was under the impression that Zage's turbo was not water cooled. This is a pretty easy install. I'd like to mention that I have a 2008 sedan, so the wiring on newer models may not coincide with the following. You'll need:

-Apexi Turbo Timer
-Philips head screwdriver
-Exacto knife
-Soldering Iron + solder
-Wire stripper
-Electrical tape

Let's get the necessary interior panels removed first. To remove the plastic steering column cover, you need to turn the car to accessory and turn the wheel left and right. After turning it far enough in one direction, you'll see a screw. Do this with the other side. A third tricky screw is hidden at the botton near the steering column adjustment lever. Now you need to remove the left trim piece next to the headunit and the center console / shifter plastic covers. They all snap in so get some leverage if you're having issues. Wiring this thing in is very straightfoward. The only catch is you need to remove the wires from the white molex connector, because it won't be used (unless you splurged on their harness, but that's a dumb waste of $$$). Just cut the plate connectors off the tops of the red, green, and blue wires. Strip all wires and braid the exposed wire.

I did the ignition wires first. Locate the ignition harness, it's slightly to the side of the ignition slot. It should have like 6 wires that are yellow, pink, black, green, white and something else. Do this:


This leaves us with a black, white, and grey wire on the turbo timer harness side. Throw a closed loop connector on the end of the black wire and use the ground point we used in the gauge install. The grey wire needs to be run out the dash, down the left side of the head unit, past the shift assembly, and to the parking break. Tap the one and only wire that goes into the parking break. GOOD NEWS, I saved the best for last.

So the white wire is the o2 wire. This is actually totally optional and if not used should be grounded (attach to same ground point as black wire). Fortunately for me I had already run a wire for my crappy narrowband AFR gauge, so I had a wire in the cabin to tap for the o2 voltage. I dare say there's a way to get the o2 voltage from in the cabin, butttttt I don't know where. So instead, we'll be going through the firewall again. Take off the wiper assembly as well. This annoying thing comes off so much, that by the end of all this I was tearing off the entire assembly in 2 minutes flat. Get the wire through without getting too anygry and run it to the ECM on the passenger side. Here's what I did when I had to run wires to the ECM the first time: I took off the bolts that hold the ECM retainer to the wall. Pulled that whole essembly with the ECM out, then cut the plastic that shields the wires. CAREFUL HERE. If you cut too much plastic, the clip won't work properly. By the way, to pull the connectors out you have to pull the grey clips away from the ECM. Using this pinout of the ECM {}, locate C20-47. Quick note - the above pinout is looking from the wire side. Tap the said wire, solder it, tape it, and you're done. Start it up, let the car warm up for a bit to see if the o2 sensor also warms up and displays a reading. Pull the parking break and pull the keys from the ignition. The car should stay on, and count down on the timer will begin.

Last edited by Focus_Sh1ft; 11-21-2012 at 02:05 PM.
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Old 09-29-2010, 01:08 AM   #4
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Drives: 08 Yaris Turbo; 06 tC Turbo
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Location: New Jersey
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*UPDATE: From what I've seen, you should NOT need larger injectors if you're planning on 8 psi of boost. All the tuning I've done suggests you'll be close to maxing out your stock fuel system at around 8 psi redline. Also, if you do plan on improving your fuel system, I'd recommend doing an aftermarket pump along with the injectors. IIRC, it was debatable if the injectors maxed out before the pump - so play it safe.

Last edited by Focus_Sh1ft; 11-21-2012 at 02:33 PM.
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Old 09-29-2010, 01:09 AM   #5
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Old 01-21-2011, 03:02 AM   #6
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Old 11-21-2012, 02:05 PM   #7
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Couple updates since people still apparently read my guides. There was a lot of misinformation that needed to be sorted. Living is learning :)
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Old 09-14-2017, 03:28 PM   #8
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mm boost
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