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Old 11-20-2006, 04:11 PM   #1
gravylegs
 
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Pulling wires through the Yaris

This post is half question, half warning.

Yesterday I finally got around to pulling the power, RCA, and remote turn on wires from the battery/deck. The whole operation was fairly simple.

I pulled my power wire through an existing grommit hole on the passenger side floor. You pull back the carpet, then pull back the second carpet, then lift out the styrofoam floor piece (which I was suprised to find!), and there is a tube running from what looks like the HVAC right through the floor. I think it is an air intake. I put the wire outside of the grommit, and then wedged the grommit back into place holding the power wire snug. This was the only easily accessible hole in the firewall that I could find. My question here are: What is this tube? If it is an air intake, it is sorta scary that it is sucking my heating/cooling air in from the engine bay!

From here I pulled the wire over to the passenger side (pulled off the trim from the kick panel to the plastic panel that divides the front from the back) and ran it along the side of the car all the way through to the lift. My questions here: putting the trim back on the bottom of the door is really difficult! I had a REALLY hard time getting the carpet to hook back onto the clips that hold it in place, and then when putting the trim back on it simply will not clip back on. It stays in place nicely, but it definitely isn't right.
Any suggestions?

Stereo sounds sweet now...

Oh, and the warning part is "be careful when trying to put back the carpet and trim"
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Old 11-20-2006, 04:40 PM   #2
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You ran the wire between the metal and the grommet?

Bad idea !

you are far better of drilling a hole for the wire or using an existing grommet with enough spce to poke another hole through.
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Old 11-20-2006, 04:40 PM   #3
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From other post and readings I believe that the hose is used as an A/C drip hose (to lazy to look through the manual).

As far as the trim goes, double check and make sure that none of the "snaps" arent broken or bent. and try sliding it forward or backward to make sure that it is indeed in the right place
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Old 11-20-2006, 04:46 PM   #4
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I didn't have too many problems running wires through the sides of my Yaris.

Mind if I ask if you have a 5DR or 3DR?
The 5DR is easier to run as there are scuff guards for both the front and rear doors, which makes it much easier to route and keep in place with electrical tape or some light adhesive.

But I actually ran the power wire and remote turn on wire through the center of the hatchback.

This was a more painful job as I had to remove a portion of the center console so I could run the power & remote wires underneath the carpet. I used the same location as you to run the power wire to the battery, through the AC drain hole. I basically cut a small triangular piece of the gromet off using an exacto knife so that I would not cut the actual hose itself, and I tucked the power between the indent I just made and the actual hole in the floor. I filled it with some light silicone so that it would not leak or enable any debris or moisture to get into the car.

Then, I routed the power wire behind the middle lower section of the dash. From there I ran it beneath the center console. Finally I pulled it through the rear seats and it terminates at the spare tire area. All hidden and very neat.

My reason for running it down the center is because I have used both the left and right sides of the Yaris for dedicated speaker and RCA cables. I wanted to eliminate as much interference as much as possible.

E.g.
Left Side - Left Tweeter Wire, Left Front Speaker Wire, Left Rear Speaker Wire, 4CH RCA wires

Center - Power Wire, Remote Turn on Wire

Right Side - Right Tweeter Wire, Right Front Speaker Wire, Right Rear Speaker Wire, 2CH RCA wires

Hope this helps, as this is, imho, the best setup for an all amplified system as you don't want your power and signal wires to run along eachother, or touch for that matter!
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Old 11-20-2006, 04:56 PM   #5
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The biggest pain is running wires through the boots of each door.

If anyone is planning on rewiring the speaker wires, I suggest using 16AWG twisted speaker wire so that you only have to run one wire per door.

If you must use a larger gauge like 14, I strongly suggest ultra flat wire like the Audison UF series.
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Old 11-20-2006, 08:50 PM   #6
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best way is to drill a hole right next to the AC drain hose exit. Mine is temporarily jammed in there with the hose until I can find, or just break down and buy another unibit. When running 2/0ga wire it gets a little trickier hehe.
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Old 11-21-2006, 03:46 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spkrman
best way is to drill a hole right next to the AC drain hose exit. Mine is temporarily jammed in there with the hose until I can find, or just break down and buy another unibit. When running 2/0ga wire it gets a little trickier hehe.
What are you powering there? Some Zapco competition amps?!

2/0AWG is good stuff, but might be overkill if your total system power is less than 1000w RMS.

But yes, if you are running 4AWG or larger wire, it might be ideal to just drill a new hole next to the AC Drain hose exit.

I was able to cut out a small pie portion of the existing gromet from the drain hose and use that empty area to plug in the 4AWG wire.
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Old 11-22-2006, 10:37 PM   #8
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Any suggestions for wire-pulling access points for the sedan (from front to rear)?

Also might be looking for a way to snake a few wires down from the area of the map lights to the dash area, without disturbing the side airbags in the pillars.
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Old 11-23-2006, 03:46 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigsky2
What are you powering there? Some Zapco competition amps?!

2/0AWG is good stuff, but might be overkill if your total system power is less than 1000w RMS.

But yes, if you are running 4AWG or larger wire, it might be ideal to just drill a new hole next to the AC Drain hose exit.

I was able to cut out a small pie portion of the existing gromet from the drain hose and use that empty area to plug in the 4AWG wire.
That 2/0ga wire has been in every one of this setups:

http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/sho...8235#post38235

It will get plenty use in the yaris... and there will likely be a few more runs of it too :)
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Old 11-23-2006, 11:28 AM   #10
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[QUOTE=bigsky2]I didn't have too many problems running wires through the sides of my Yaris.

Mind if I ask if you have a 5DR or 3DR?
The 5DR is easier to run as there are scuff guards for both the front and rear doors, which makes it much easier to route and keep in place with electrical tape or some light adhesive.

But I actually ran the power wire and remote turn on wire through the center of the hatchback.

QUOTE]

Silly question, did you actually had to remove both front seats?
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Old 11-23-2006, 11:32 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigsky2
The biggest pain is running wires through the boots of each door.

If anyone is planning on rewiring the speaker wires, I suggest using 16AWG twisted speaker wire so that you only have to run one wire per door.

If you must use a larger gauge like 14, I strongly suggest ultra flat wire like the Audison UF series.
hook.jpg
will the cutting-hanger solution work or make it easier?
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Old 11-23-2006, 02:08 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yaris-TJ
Attachment 2382
will the cutting-hanger solution work or make it easier?
Yes, I used the exact same method with a hanger. I also had a few other tools to help along like a snake wire.

But trust me, it looks easier said than done!
The boot is almost sealed in design, and there are only two small holes for you to run the wire through one hole and route it to the other hole. You want to run the wire exclusively inside the rubber boot and not outside of it. This keeps the wire safe from moisture, and any possible damage if it catches on to anything.

It's easy if you are running thin gauge wires, like 18AWG. The profanity and frustration kicks in when you run 16AWG or thicker wires
I used 16AWG for the front speakers, and then I had to use 14AWG for the rears since I ran out.

I'm glad I'm done with that
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