10 Amp limit for cigaretter lighter? - Toyota Yaris Forums

RMcG · 10-08-2011, 11:12 PM

My Toyota Yaris owner's manual states (p. 217) that the power outlet (cigarette lighter) should not be operated at over 10 amps and 12 volts to be sure the fuse does not blow. I believe the fuse is 15 amps.

I am interested in using a 12-volt stove to heat food and water, such as the RoadPro 12 volt stove, see http://www.amazon.com/RoadPro-12-Vol...8129645&sr=1-1

But apparently this stove draws 12 amps (at 12 volts) 144 watts. Will I likely have problems?

Thanks,

RMcG

Stove · 10-09-2011, 12:43 AM

The system is designed for a specific max amp load. It is always designed with a safety margin.

12 amps on a 10 amp system (120% of the rated capacity) probably would not be a problem if you were going to only be over the rating for a very short time. The extra amp draw is going to generate heat that can damage wires, melt the wire insulation as well as damage other components.

The description and the reviews on that thing said it took about an hour to heat a meal. I wouldn't try to draw 120% of the max rated amps for an hour, or more, out my cars electrical system.

Are you looking for something to keep things warm, or to actually cook in?

RMcG · 10-09-2011, 03:54 PM

Thanks for your reply. To answer your question, I want to heat things up that are cold, but not cook per se. I don't want to just keep things warm that are already warm, however.

RM

nemelek · 10-09-2011, 04:08 PM

You could also wire in a new outlet using the proper wire and fuse. Even put it the back by the hatch.

RMcG · 10-09-2011, 04:23 PM

Thanks for your replies. The owner's manual specifically says: "The power outlet can be used for 12 V accessories that run on less than 10 A. ....to prevent the fuse from being blown, do not use more than 12 V at 10 amps."

QUESTIONS: Would the fuse blow before any damage to the wiring occurs?

Is it a difficult job to rewire in a new outlet with the proper (12 Amps rated) wire and fuse?

RedRide · 10-09-2011, 06:22 PM

Quote:

....QUESTIONS: Would the fuse blow before any damage to the wiring occurs?....

I would expect so as that is what fuses are for.

RMcG · 10-09-2011, 09:27 PM

Radio Shack and Auto parts stores sell auxiliary power outlets that are rated to 15 amps. It looks like you essentially run a (red) positive from your battery post through the firewall into you cab and then ground a (black) negative. You can also add a 15 amp in series fuse.

QUESTIONS: The only questions seems to be how difficult it would be to do this. Is it easy to make or find a hole in the firewall? I suppose you can just make or solder a connection to the positive battery cable. Is a good ground inside the cab available?

Also can the battery handle a 12 amp draw? (Since the cigarette lighter, auxiliary power outlet can handle up to 10 amps, it seems like a 12 amp draw on the battery would probably be OK.) According to the owner's manual, the maximum charge rate is 5 amps.

CTScott · 10-09-2011, 09:34 PM

Check out my remote start DIY for a location on the under dash fuse panel for +12. The spade terminal that I show in the guide is actually a location for a fusible link for an option that we don't get on this side of the globe. You can slide a 1/4" female spade terminal onto the supply side of the link position and then add an appropriately sized wire and fuse. The tap point is a 60A circuit, so you can safely add a 15 or 20 amp fused circuit to it.

http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/sho...ght=diy+remote

RMcG · 10-09-2011, 10:44 PM

Hi Scott,

I see the spade terminal and the ground on page 3 of your guide. That is very helpful, thanks. I can use the chassis ground bolt (near or under the "driver's kick panel", picture page 3) to ground the circuit, correct?

RMcG

CTScott · 10-09-2011, 10:50 PM

Correct

RMcG · 10-10-2011, 12:40 AM

Thanks Scott,

RMcG

Revsson · 10-10-2011, 11:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CTScott

Check out my remote start DIY for a location on the under dash fuse panel for +12. The spade terminal that I show in the guide is actually a location for a fusible link for an option that we don't get on this side of the globe. You can slide a 1/4" female spade terminal onto the supply side of the link position and then add an appropriately sized wire and fuse. The tap point is a 60A circuit, so you can safely add a 15 or 20 amp fused circuit to it.

http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/sho...ght=diy+remote

That voltage tap is a constant +12v, right?
So, if I wanted to tap into that for a GPS or something, I would have to remember to turn it off?
Is there a 60A fuse under the hood, in case something causes a high current draw?

CTScott · 10-11-2011, 07:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Revsson

That voltage tap is a constant +12v, right?
So, if I wanted to tap into that for a GPS or something, I would have to remember to turn it off?
Is there a 60A fuse under the hood, in case something causes a high current draw?

Correct on the constant. If you were running a low current device like a GPS, then you could just tap the lighter socket.

That feed is fused by a 60 fusible link on the + battery terminal.

Idahotom · 10-13-2011, 06:37 PM

Or, open the hood, find the exhaust manifold, and somehow secure dinner near same!

Kidding, but not really, some years ago a guy had a cookbook out for meals to be cooked while driving, back when there was a bit more room under the hood. If you're into canned food, it wouldn't be that hard to do. Other wise the cooker you described would probably work just fine. You will not harm the wiring (let the smoke out from under the dash) as that is what the fuse is for, to blow before the wiring melts. Like others have said, not that big a deal to run a dedicated circuit just for the cookstove, it'd be handy for other stuff also.

CTScott · 10-13-2011, 07:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Idahotom

Or, open the hood, find the exhaust manifold, and somehow secure dinner near same!

Kidding, but not really, some years ago a guy had a cookbook out for meals to be cooked while driving, back when there was a bit more room under the hood. If you're into canned food, it wouldn't be that hard to do. Other wise the cooker you described would probably work just fine. You will not harm the wiring (let the smoke out from under the dash) as that is what the fuse is for, to blow before the wiring melts. Like others have said, not that big a deal to run a dedicated circuit just for the cookstove, it'd be handy for other stuff also.

They did that this year on the US Top Gear show. The dude with the jeep had his can of baked beans explode and destroy some wiring. So, as long as you stay away from canned goods, all is fine.

10-08-2011, 11:12 PM	#1
RMcG Drives: 2008 Yaris Base Hatchback Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: Pacific NW Posts: 248	10 Amp limit for cigaretter lighter? My Toyota Yaris owner's manual states (p. 217) that the power outlet (cigarette lighter) should not be operated at over 10 amps and 12 volts to be sure the fuse does not blow. I believe the fuse is 15 amps. I am interested in using a 12-volt stove to heat food and water, such as the RoadPro 12 volt stove, see http://www.amazon.com/RoadPro-12-Vol...8129645&sr=1-1 But apparently this stove draws 12 amps (at 12 volts) 144 watts. Will I likely have problems? Thanks, RMcG

10-09-2011, 04:08 PM	#4
nemelek DWEED Drives: 3DR 2008 Metorite Metalic Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Arizona Posts: 1,161	You could also wire in a new outlet using the proper wire and fuse. Even put it the back by the hatch. __________________ Making a decision without following it with an action is still a fantasy.

10-09-2011, 09:34 PM	#8
CTScott ULTIMATE View User's Garage Drives: 09 5dr LB, 2x 08 3dr LB Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: USA, CT Posts: 13,460	Check out my remote start DIY for a location on the under dash fuse panel for +12. The spade terminal that I show in the guide is actually a location for a fusible link for an option that we don't get on this side of the globe. You can slide a 1/4" female spade terminal onto the supply side of the link position and then add an appropriately sized wire and fuse. The tap point is a 60A circuit, so you can safely add a 15 or 20 amp fused circuit to it. http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/sho...ght=diy+remote __________________

10-09-2011, 10:50 PM	#10
CTScott ULTIMATE View User's Garage Drives: 09 5dr LB, 2x 08 3dr LB Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: USA, CT Posts: 13,460	Correct __________________

Similar Threads
Thread	Thread Starter	Forum	Replies	Last Post
FS/FT: Eclipse 3650 4 + 1 channel amp	yaris2010RS	Items for Sale by private party	3	03-11-2011 11:24 AM
Sub and amp for sale	TEHxFALLEN V1.2	Items for Sale by private party	34	05-17-2010 09:06 AM
Help choosing sub	Duckywitbigfeetz	In Car Entertainment + Electronics (audio / video / alarm)	40	03-31-2010 12:06 PM
Quick advice needed on unfinished amp install	GreenSpeed	In Car Entertainment + Electronics (audio / video / alarm)	15	01-15-2009 11:03 PM
Connect mono amp. + subwoofer to stock HU?	IsLNdbOi	In Car Entertainment + Electronics (audio / video / alarm)	23	10-28-2008 10:01 PM

10-09-2011, 12:43 AM	#2
Stove View User's Garage Drives: 2010 Yaris 5 Door Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Tigard Oregon Posts: 314	The system is designed for a specific max amp load. It is always designed with a safety margin. 12 amps on a 10 amp system (120% of the rated capacity) probably would not be a problem if you were going to only be over the rating for a very short time. The extra amp draw is going to generate heat that can damage wires, melt the wire insulation as well as damage other components. The description and the reviews on that thing said it took about an hour to heat a meal. I wouldn't try to draw 120% of the max rated amps for an hour, or more, out my cars electrical system. Are you looking for something to keep things warm, or to actually cook in?

10-09-2011, 03:54 PM	#3
RMcG Drives: 2008 Yaris Base Hatchback Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: Pacific NW Posts: 248	Thanks for your reply. To answer your question, I want to heat things up that are cold, but not cook per se. I don't want to just keep things warm that are already warm, however. RM

10-09-2011, 04:23 PM	#5
RMcG Drives: 2008 Yaris Base Hatchback Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: Pacific NW Posts: 248	Thanks for your replies. The owner's manual specifically says: "The power outlet can be used for 12 V accessories that run on less than 10 A. ....to prevent the fuse from being blown, do not use more than 12 V at 10 amps." QUESTIONS: Would the fuse blow before any damage to the wiring occurs? Is it a difficult job to rewire in a new outlet with the proper (12 Amps rated) wire and fuse?

10-09-2011, 09:27 PM	#7
RMcG Drives: 2008 Yaris Base Hatchback Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: Pacific NW Posts: 248	Radio Shack and Auto parts stores sell auxiliary power outlets that are rated to 15 amps. It looks like you essentially run a (red) positive from your battery post through the firewall into you cab and then ground a (black) negative. You can also add a 15 amp in series fuse. QUESTIONS: The only questions seems to be how difficult it would be to do this. Is it easy to make or find a hole in the firewall? I suppose you can just make or solder a connection to the positive battery cable. Is a good ground inside the cab available? Also can the battery handle a 12 amp draw? (Since the cigarette lighter, auxiliary power outlet can handle up to 10 amps, it seems like a 12 amp draw on the battery would probably be OK.) According to the owner's manual, the maximum charge rate is 5 amps.

10-09-2011, 10:44 PM	#9
RMcG Drives: 2008 Yaris Base Hatchback Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: Pacific NW Posts: 248	Hi Scott, I see the spade terminal and the ground on page 3 of your guide. That is very helpful, thanks. I can use the chassis ground bolt (near or under the "driver's kick panel", picture page 3) to ground the circuit, correct? RMcG

10-10-2011, 12:40 AM	#11
RMcG Drives: 2008 Yaris Base Hatchback Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: Pacific NW Posts: 248	Thanks Scott, RMcG

10-13-2011, 06:37 PM	#14
Idahotom Drives: 2008 5 sp. LB Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: Idahoi Posts: 268	Or, open the hood, find the exhaust manifold, and somehow secure dinner near same! Kidding, but not really, some years ago a guy had a cookbook out for meals to be cooked while driving, back when there was a bit more room under the hood. If you're into canned food, it wouldn't be that hard to do. Other wise the cooker you described would probably work just fine. You will not harm the wiring (let the smoke out from under the dash) as that is what the fuse is for, to blow before the wiring melts. Like others have said, not that big a deal to run a dedicated circuit just for the cookstove, it'd be handy for other stuff also.